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Nice! I guess the next project will be a wood-fired steam engine to eliminate the hand cranking while disposing of the pencil shavings ;-) Roy

Very nice!? Thanks for sharing. Jeff

pretty cool , a couple of steppers & ya may have the first CNC pencil sharpener thanks for sharing animal

Hi boys Some time ago I asked you some technical questions about an old German Pencil Sharpener. Made by Guhl & Harbeck , Hamburg, and I got a lot of help. Thanks again. I have made a short video,

The lathe purchase last November had bothb. I would make so you remove easily.? Some you want remove. The hard takes wrench set Dave

I have use on some lathes cookies sheets for both backslash and under lathe. Dave

Same here. I got rid of the backsplash years ago. Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

I have a DRO on this machine, so the backsplash had to say goodbye.? I use a cookie sheet and a butchered cardboard box to catch the swarf.? It does keep the mess down.? When the box gets full,

I raised my mini lathe on 1 1/2 inch high blocks made from Trex and you could also use wood. The photo shows a slot I cut in the backsplash lower surface. Other lathe photos and drawings available on

I used a piece of scrap wood to move the splash plate about an inch farther away from the bed and bent some aluminum roof flashing to fill the resulting gap by the headstock.? There are no clearance

I removed my backsplash too, shortly after I got the lathe.? It was too annoying for me, and I don't want mounds of swarf collecting right there.? I let all the swarf get pushed off the back where

Same here.? ? I first made standoffs of 1.25 inch long small AL tubes, but later just relegated it to the pegboard. -- Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

When I found it getting in the way, I simply took it off & propped it against the wall behind the lathe. Roy

Like this?

A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of

I’m too lazy to look it up but there’s an arbitrary point, about 500C I think, that delineates soldering & brazing. Otherwise as said it’s just melting a filler material into the joint.

Just to add to point #3, the part needs to be hot enough to melt the solder. The iron or torch is used only to heat up the part, not melt the solder / braze / whatever. Please take note, YouTube

"Try melting a piece of it? Steel and Al have very different melting temps." Steel would be easy. He's trying to tell aluminum from magnesium. Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

Try melting a piece of it?? Steel and Al have very different melting temps.

There acid to test types metal I never worry about it unless I am? welding or foundry work. Stainless is a different story because you know if 400 type and if a magnet sticks then 400 most machines