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Remember when replacing fuse there three basic types standard,? slow blow and fast blow. Slow blow is use for motors and welders. Fast is used on electronics.? Check with manufacturer to see witch

The purpose of a fuse is to protect the wires and prevent a fire. In that case it does not matter where the fuse is. As for AC electrical safety that is the job of the breaker box. New construction

The schematic that came with my Micromark/MicoLux #84631 7x16 (purchased in 2014) shows the fuse on the Line: I can't think of any reason it would be otherwise: protecting the neutral and not the hot

Yes, keep the low voltage circuits isolated from the lathe AC ground. Ferrite beads are to suppress high frequency noise and won't do anything to suppress full line AC if by chance line voltage is

The fuse must be on the hot leg. You can fuse both L and N, but if the fuse blows in that diagram and the emergency switch is engaged (either from failure on the switch or re-engagement) then line

RE:? fuse on the neutral side.? There might be a couple of reasons why it's on that leg.? The first is that the fuse is user-replaceable so it's less dangerous in terms of inadvertently coming in

For a while Grizzly was selling off South Bend lathes assembled from leftover stock. But $26,000 for a "New"SB was a bit much! Bill wrote:

I have never purchased from Grizzly I have purchased from Amazon,? Walmart,? HF and https://littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php Dave

They have grown over years. There was others selling Chinese equipment in 1980's but they are gone today. Now we also have Amazon and Walmart too less customer service ok none better price. Dave

Thanks for the advice everyone.? Makes sense to me now. Have another question, this time about AC. I found a wiring diagram that matches what I see in my old Speedway/Homier.? I noticed the AC fuse

chris wrote: Agreed -- that's an excellent way to think about it, and a good way to describe it to others. Have you written that conversion up, or do you have a pointer to someone else's similar

I agree, they don't but they are keeping a few hundred(?) people employed and a few thousand hobbyists like us busy. There aren't any US machine-tool makers that make low-cost machines. Any such

US business?? ? Do the sell anything made in the US? -- Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

The LMS DRO has a SIEG Bluetooth box to which the reader head cables connect. It’s powered by a 12V switching “wall wart” PSU. Do I understand correctly that the lathe/DRO reader heads ground

I like to make a distinction between the use of ‘ground’ and DC return patch. It is simple. “grounds” do not carry current. For example, the rounded shield in a cable is always at zero volts

Lots of folks don't get that a good ground is alot like a good motorcycle helmet . Ya really need one . I could just see a bean counter lookin to cut cost & sayin ya don' need that many grounds from

I once had to tell the builders of Palo Verde #2 that they had to bring everything to a single point. "Star" grounding! "But that's miles!" Bill

Don't connect the DRO to the AC ground. Only connect the DRO shield to the DC return. That is it's reference point. wrote:

Chris's advice is useful if you have high speed signals or analog signals that need to be protected from noise. If I am not careful, I will ignite a signal integrity war. Having been a EE designing

The shield ground is to be connected at one end only with the other end left not connected to anything. This means there can never be current flowing in the shield. Connect the shield to the Lathe’s