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The purpose of "grounding" is to provide a return path for a voltage to a safe place to keep a human from suffering harm - pretty simple. The AC main ground should always be connected to the frame of

No, the iron frame is a protective ground that eventually goes to the AC breaker box. its purpose is to short a stray wire to the ground. it is only for safety. You do however need a DC ground point.

Today, I just received the annual catalog from Grizzly by mail. It is very thick compared to what they sent me last year which was relatively thin with maybe just under 50 or 100 pages, not sure. This

Brett's post on DRO grounding made me wonder if I should ask a similar question... I'm doing some mods to my lathe involving a larger controller box to accommodate a typical Chinese RPM display and an

The LMS lathe DRO kit has DRO reader heads with the coax cable shield tinned, presumably for grounding. My AC Panel is grounded to my copper cold water pipe (meets NH code), with both in the basement

I remember hearing that problem. Same thing can happen with DRO too. The best is the optical type even today. There was another type used a dial indicator and I'd type mic. Both was very reliable but

For *blind threading* RH use reverse and cut from back side. You use a carriage stop move carriage to stop and ingauge the haft nut and start in reverse.? Now cutter will back out hole. Note this

Nods, remembering back 1960's with the mechanical Travl dial's on some mills, skipping and guys scrapping parts, couldn't trust em...

Just keep in mind what you really need to your work. If step you into most machine shops looks great all tools have DRO'S most are not working. In the shop I had only the Bridgeport had DRO'S and air

I have with this type of board pass . It could a reostat having a dead spot. Just by moving the reostat will clear the problem. This is same problem you find with a clock radio and the volume control.

Wow! Those look fascinating, but I think they're beyond my capabilities right now. Would be a neat project though.

https://github.com/alanesq/DRO https://github.com/TimPaterson/TouchscreenDigitalReadout https://www.buydisplay.com/serial-spi-i2c-10-1-inch-tft-lcd-module-dislay-w-ra8876-optl-touch-panel

This was also in that manual: ATTENTION: The power supply system of the 120v AC machine has an automatic overload protective device. If the machine is overloaded, the motor will automatically shut

According to the manual on their site, the fuse is a F10AL250V, which I assume is 10amp. There weren't any instructions about removal, so I assume it's a twist-off cap that holds a glass fuse. Should

I have owned my MicroMark 7x16 MiniLathe for many years. I have been unable to start the lathe which is unusual as I have not had it happen before. I am receiving a “fault notice” (yellow lamp is

They make them in Jacob's. I do have one handy at times. https://www.mcmaster.com/2815A16/ You like the price too. Dave

I use metal scraping or shim stock. Both will give a little fex for smooth sliding. Dave

I experimented with that approach but found that the DRO I used has quite a bit of friction.? It caused the "C" shaped arm to deflect to the tune of about .004", despite my best efforts to stiffen it

Interesting approach there. Also like how you did the tailstock DRO with the slot in the housing. Had a similar idea but just slotting the front so it would retract sufficiently to eject the taper but

I was able to add a cross slide DRO underneath - https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lathetopassylg.gif https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lathe_mods.html