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There's a compound pivot mod that moves the compound's pivot point close to an inch towards the centerline of the lathe - should reduce the number of times the feedscrew is exposed. Flexible

Further comment: 109 = AA engineering manufacture Flat ways = Atlas manufacture. My earlier comments bad mouthing the 109 are in no way intended to reflect on the Atlas (flat ways) series of machines.

John Breitbach wrote: The 109 series of sears lathes have only a 1/2" spindle and in general are the worst lathes I have ever seen. Some versions came with no back gears and some had a strange

Hi Steve, Thanks for the link. A bit embarrassing since it is on the same site as my original link and I just missed it. Seems like everyone who mods the cross slide has a mill except me. Hmmm,

Check this site first. http://www.mini-lathe.com/ This is where I went to learn avout lathes before I bought my Homeir. Good luck. <lecompte126@h...> wrote: person

Hi George, The HF gadgets fit the Speedway fine. I bought HF's drill chuck with MT2 taper and it fits my Speedway 7x12 properly. Easiest way to thread is with taps and dies when that is possible.

Correction to my previous post: It is www.mini-lathe.com (with a hyphen), not www.minilathe.com Sorry. Chuck K,

Kelvin: If you spend a couple of hours roaming the right places on the net, you can get a good picture of things quickly. Here's are some suggestions for you (others on this group will probably also

I've owned a Craftsman 6 inch in the past and would consider it better quality and, if in good condition, likely to produce better results than the minilathes as they come out of the box. They

try going to www.minilathe.com and look it up in the files. it shows how to slacken and tighten the nuts at the front of the bed in order to move the motor around. i did mine in about 5 mins,following

Having completed the replacement of the back? gears in the headstock of my 7x10 I am having trouble getting the drive toothed belt to run true in the forward direction. Has anyone else encountered

Hi Bob, Thanks for the info on your mod as well as the link to the cross slide mod pictures. I particularly like the way you clamped the inner race; if my wild scheme doesn't work out I'll copy

I made a new spacer block, a block to hold two bearings, with a washer between the bearing and the spacer block. This allowed the bearing outer race to be pinched between the spacer block and the

Hello everyone, I'm a new member to the group. I would like to buy a mini metal lathe, can anyone give me websites where i can find them. Any sugestions on what kind and size to buy (I am an handy

I am a novice and just purchased a 7 X 12 Speedway mini lathe from Homnier. Will attachemts from Harbour Freight tools such as the drill chuck work in this lathe? I will also want to do some

Realistically, the bearings should last close to forever; any method of making them easy to remove would be hard to retrofit into the existing envelope. Ejector holes don't need to be threaded;

There is a lot to be said for Lock-Tite in these applications! Minimal space requirement, easy assembly, and reversible with a propane torch! Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an

I'm quite sure that I already posted this several hours ago, but here it goes again: Ty added ball bearings to his xslide in conjunction with a new 20 tpi lead screw. You can find the drawings

I'm quite sure that I already posted this several hours ago, but here it goes again: Ty added ball bearings to his xslide in conjunction with a new 20 tpi lead screw. You can find the drawings

Hi Roy, Thanks for the reference. I also intend to put a BB in the compound since the bearings are so cheap ($0.72 for a 6001-2RS) but, as a newbie, am not sure about that design -- it looks like