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I purchased a couple lennox diemaster II blades the last time I was at the tool shop. Today I broke the last of my old blades and mounted one. I was sawing 2 1/4 square hot roll solid for a tool holder I'm making. I took two cuts, one to square the piece and a second to cut to length. Each cut was finished in just 5 minutes with chips visibly flying all the time. No cooling. The resulting squareness was within .010. I'm impressed. Thought I'd pass this on to those who may be wondering if a $15.00 blade is worth it. My vote is yes. Ralph Meiser Monroe, Mi.

complain of not getting instructions. Its a Rong Fu type. n Ed ke6bnl ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Ed ke6bnl@... ( 1950 f1 & 1963econo pu Agua Dulce Ca. 70 chevy S/B) 1948 Ford F3 70 miles No. East of Los Angeles +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

I would assume there's some type of keyway holding the gear to the shaft, if not a setscrew? Either way, see if you can get hold of an automotive gearpuller (rent or, of course, HF has 'em) Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg!

I recently purchased a used 4x6 bandsaw. Its missing a few parts, including the V-belt and both pulleys. I was hoping someone might be willing to measure the diameter of each of the 3 steps on each of the pulleys on their saw. The size of the V- belt would also be handy. TJ, Perth, Australia

I have just purchased a new 4 x 6 saw, and looking at the pictures of Jet, Enco, HF, saws etc it does not look like any of them! Look at the motor mounting. I have included a link to the website where I bought it from. The one that I had delivered was white with a blue pulley cover on the END. The colours matched my 9 x 20 lathe which I bought from the same source! These are definitely Chinese / Taiwanese saws. Anyone else know more about them? Any tips for modifying them? Regards Jason http://www.engineerstoolroom.co.uk/bandsaws.htm

Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the 4x6bandsaw group: Preffered blade TPI? o 6 o 10 o 14 o 24 o 10/14 To vote, please visit the following web page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/surveys?id=10822046 Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups web site listed above. Thanks!

It appears similar to the now-discontinuted one HF had about 4 years ago, except they referred to theirs as a "tabletop" model since it had no legs on the stand. Plus, you'll note there is no spring counter-balancing rod on it and no automatic cutoff switch. I own one of them, but never having used the 'standard' 4x6, I really can't compare them. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! 4x6bandsaw@... wrote:

Ryan, Thank you. I need a 2" dia. 23 tooth gear. Do you know if part #23 meets that criteria? I bought the saw used. It is red and made by Northern Tool. The only markings on the saw are: BS 450-C & the motor is 3/4 HP. Other than that, it looks like the cheap saws with the weak stand and 2 wheels at one end. Northern Tool told me they have, "No saw with those numbers!" Noone at Northern Tool Tech Support or Customer Service can/wants to try to help. If you change your oil, I would appreciate a note on what you find. ESPECIALLY, IF IT IS 2" dia. and 23 TEETH! Thank you very much, Charlie B.

Hi, I uploaded a picture of the quickie saw stand I built. It's 2x4's, a piece of plywood, some casters, and a sheet of peg board. Look in the "Photos" section on the website. The pegboard makes a handy spot for hanging a spare blade or two. Since it's angled they stay on unless you bounce the saw around really hard. Two of the casters swivel, making it easy to drive around the shop (which I have to do frequently cuz of limited space). Anyone else out there do something similar?

This message contains a plea for help! I've uploaded a photo (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_4861259/__hr_BandSaw.jpg? bczWn69Abtm.rT9G) of my Central Machinery S-37151 saw, which I believe fits in with all the others in this group. I've tried to get help from some of the groups that may overlap—Sherline, Home_Machinist, Little_Machines. I got a number of replies, but none of them seem to help. The problem is that the blade consistently comes off the top (when the arm is upright) wheel. The manual (page 16) gives a procedure for adjusting the blade tracking. In my photo, the bolts marked D and E correspond to the callouts on page 16. For openers, I was leery of the instructions to make these adjustments with the machine running and the wheel cover open. Sorry, we didn't do it that way—closed the door each time before turning it on; and it's a good thing, because the blade would have been spinning across the garage. Consequently, we were never able to follow the adjustment procedure, which directs us to make the adjustments while the machine is running. We (my son and I—I needed moral support) found that the two wheels were not in the same plane. We checked this with a long straightedge. By moving adjustment bold D in and out, we were able to even them up in the same plane. But it soon became evident that the top wheel had both a pitch and a yaw problem, which we assumed that we could correct the pitch by adjusting bolt E, which we were able to do to some degree. But the wheel is still yawing enough to throw the blade off in just a revolution or two, and I can find no way to adjust the yaw. What are we doing wrong? How do we go about fixing this thing? Thanks, Dave Wood

Don't bother wasting your time on this virus infected web site. -- Dave Hylands Vancouver, BC, Canada http://www.DaveHylands.com/

Due to the recent series of unwanted posts, i've moved membership to the restricted level. This just means I'll have to approve anyone who wants to join. I removed the offending accounts as well. Sorry for the bother.

Today while I was cutting some O1 stock with my saw in the vertical position, it was vibrating a fair amount. After doing some checking (removing blade, removed the v-belt) I find it's the motor. In the horizontal position it seems to be lessened a bit due to gravity. Has anyone else had this issue? If so what did you do? I don't really want to buy a new motor, but that seems to be the thing to do. Any suggestions?

Hello All, Santa gave me a new Enco 4x6 Bandsaw for Christmas. I read all of the past posts so I was aware of all of the tweaks required to improve the saw. I have not checked the the Gearbox for sand yet, but was wondering what weight of oil to use if I need to replace the Gearbox Oil? I also cut 1x12 pine boards to fit the inside of the sheet metal stand legs and attached the boards to the metal legs with #8 pan head screws. The legs are then bolted through the sheet metal and pine boards to the saw bottom. I don't know how rigid the stand would have been without the pine boards, but I am pleased with my results. Thanks for all of the previous posts, they are a great resource! Greg

Today I picked up a 4x6 with a bad gear. I'm guessing the owner overtightened the blade. The worm gear "ate" a hole into the gear on the blade pulley drive shaft. The former owner also gave me the part he ordered. But, it is the wrong gear. The saw is "RED" with "TYPE: BS-450C" as the only label markings. I think it is from Northern Tool. Northern Tool is on the parts slip for the new gear (the wrong size). Also, the part number of the "WRONG GEAR" is TI15574091 TRANSMISSION GEAR - 155. This gear is 1 1/2" dia. and has 16 teeth. The gasket that came with the new gear is 2 1/2 X 3 3/4. The gear I need is 2" in dia. and has 23 teeth. Also, the gasket/gear cover on this saw is 3 3/4" x 5". Here are my questions: 1. Who's saw is it? Northern Tool? 2. Where can I get the correct replacement gear the fastest? 3. I have removed the nut retaining the gear on the shaft. How do I get the gear off the shaft it does not seem to want to move? Thank you, Charlie Brighthaupt Ringoes, NJ

I've tried to d/l the bandsaw.pdf file http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/files/BandSaw.pdf twice now and it stops d/l at roughly the same point. Is there damage to the file, or is it just phase of the moon that's giving me trouble? Paul R

Today I bit the bullet and purchased a 4x6HF saw. Started putting it togeather tonite. Not much trouble so far had to align the pulleys with a straight edge and move them both out to clear the gaurd. One problem I need help on is I have a loose part that looks like part#59 in the parts diagram and I don't have a clue where it goes. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Jim

Paul, When I first got the Homier saw I had trouble getting the motor to start in high speed. I called Homier and they sent me a new capacitor. It helped a little but at times it still would not start on the first cold start. After the first start it worked fine. It may be that I run the blade tension too high. I never really use the high speed anyways so I haven't done anything about it. The motor runs cool and draws under 7 amps. It fact I forgot about the motor until seeing your question. My biggest cut has been a 3" round bar. Most of the stuff I do is 1/2" or less. I adjusted the saw (took me about an hour or so) and it cuts great very true. The blade never slips. For a home shop it is a great value. I haven't used any of the bimetal blades yet. Just the cheap Homier and HF ones which seem OK. I think it is very close to the HF saw. The HF saw has a little bigger motor 3/4HP Homier versus 1 HP HF. Bob <paul_probus@y...> wrote: How however, the that smaller

3 photos of my Warco 4 1/2" bandsaw available in the UK to see more go to www.warco.co.uk

Rex, I bought a HF because it was on sale - $161.00 incl tax. They all seem to be the same, just painted different colors. I was cutting a couple of light angles and got a bind which caused the blade to jump the track. I stopped the saw and repositioned the blade which when it would stay on track would cut for about 3 seconds before jumping again. I bought a Kennametal bi-metal blade and have had zero problems since.