Tony 99% of table to blade squareness issues are because the guide bar slots in the saw frame have warped out of parallel with the blade travel. Because they are at 40 degrees (for a 115) or 45 deg (128) to the run of the blade, they tip the table on top of the guide assembly at an angle to both the front and sides of the blade Easy fix. Loosen the lower guide handwheel and push the top of the guide assembly out.? If the squareness gets better then you find the right amount of shim to get the table surface square to side of the blade.? If it gets worse, tip the bottom of the guide bar out at the bottom and you'll find squareness gets better and the shim goes in the bottom.? Stick the pieces to the back of the slot with glue or double sided tape (tape is normally about 3thou thick so take that into account).? Since you don't move that guide shim can be cut from? any material? even plastic from packaging.? Measure from the machined top of the lower guide assembly with the table removed, because flimsy sheet metal table often don't bolt flat or are bent when installed.? Rgds - jv On Wed, 14 Apr 2021, 2:49 am tonydi_499, <tonydi@...> wrote: I've got an old Continental 4x6 that I converted to strictly vertical usage.? The problem I'm having is that I can't adjust the blade to be square to the table.? I've checked everything in Mr Pitkin's great PDF to the best of my ability and it all checks out. The blade rides perfectly on the two wheels. After I took the picture below I even removed the upper and lower bearing guides and milled them to give me the ability to rotate them more than they could before.? I'm now probably about half as far off as the picture but removing even more from the guides just seems like a bad idea, like I'm having to resort to extreme measures to correct something that could be fixed in a more conventional adjustment.? What could I be missing here? |