How to change the drive Gears on 4x6

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#14375

I have a old Buffalo 4x6 that needs it's gears replaced.

HELP!!

Where do I start how do I remove the gears? Where do I get replacement gears from?

I have seen replacement gears on Amazon that some have reported using.

Pictures would be greatly appreciated but any help would would be appreciated!!

Ralph

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#14377

Hi Ralph

I see from your photos that it’s the 20T gear that’s worn.? Is it brass or steel ? (hard to tell). If the gear is brass, this generally means the steel worm has a burr on it, which you’ll have to find and file off.? If it was abrasive wear, the abrasive embeds in the brass and the harder steel gear wears. However if they’re both steel then probably the gear would abrade rather than the worm.? ?

The Amazon brass gear that I’ve seen was a 20T and therefore should fit. Though I’ve never seen identical machines from 2 different manufacturers there is a lot of standardisation of parts like gears, so they bore their different castings to the same shaft centres. ?I believe HF and Jet sell spare parts, so you might check if they’re cheaper and have the right teeth (there’s 20T and 23T that I know of).

I’ve only replaced the drive wheel bearings for which I had to remove the brass gear.? Like Jorge’s pics of 24Feb17 show, I ?drove out the pin that locks the brass gear to the drive wheel shaft and ?used a hammer and a ?” brass drift to drive the shaft out, though a press would have been better.?? I think I just drove the shaft out through the gear without attempting the pull it off the shaft first like Jorge did.

With the amount of crap that was in your gearbox I’d suggest you replace the bearings and seal that’s between them too. The shaft went through the bearing inners and I then drifted out the bearings, though a blind bearing puller w/ slide hammer would be better.? Use a propane torch or a heat gun on the casting to help loosen them.

You shouldn’t need to remove the worm gear and shaft, but if you do, then go back through the posts and look for a John Pitkin post around 2007 – 2008, where he described a puller made from 1”x?” flat bar with a 5/8” hole in the middle and a ?”UNC tapped hole on either side,?two ?"?hex bolts and a collar that clamped to the gearbox input shaft.??The hexbolts are spaced so the heads bear on the casting and are screwed right home, the bar is slipped over the G/B input shaft and the collar locked onto it. Unscrewing the hexbolts?pulls the shaft out ?(sorry I’m not at home so can’t tell you the msg#). Rgds - jv

#14378

Ralph:

To add to John's post, Grizzly also supplies parts for their 4X6 saw.? I own the Harbor Freight 4X6 saw and have bought parts for it from Grizzly.

Grizzly has the worm and gear in stock.? Don't know if they are a fit for your saw.? Grizzly's parts team is quite helpful - might be worth a call.

Worm, part no. P0622194 - $20.00

Gear, part no. P0622191 - $49.50

Bill

---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <vreededesign@...> wrote :

Hi Ralph

I see from your photos that it’s the 20T gear that’s worn.? Is it brass or steel ? (hard to tell). If the gear is brass, this generally means the steel worm has a burr on it, which you’ll have to find and file off.? If it was abrasive wear, the abrasive embeds in the brass and the harder steel gear wears. However if they’re both steel then probably the gear would abrade rather than the worm.? ?

The Amazon brass gear that I’ve seen was a 20T and therefore should fit. Though I’ve never seen identical machines from 2 different manufacturers there is a lot of standardisation of parts like gears, so they bore their different castings to the same shaft centres. ?I believe HF and Jet sell spare parts, so you might check if they’re cheaper and have the right teeth (there’s 20T and 23T that I know of).

I’ve only replaced the drive wheel bearings for which I had to remove the brass gear.? Like Jorge’s pics of 24Feb17 show, I ?drove out the pin that locks the brass gear to the drive wheel shaft and ?used a hammer and a ?” brass drift to drive the shaft out, though a press would have been better.?? I think I just drove the shaft out through the gear without attempting the pull it off the shaft first like Jorge did.

With the amount of crap that was in your gearbox I’d suggest you replace the bearings and seal that’s between them too. The shaft went through the bearing inners and I then drifted out the bearings, though a blind bearing puller w/ slide hammer would be better.? Use a propane torch or a heat gun on the casting to help loosen them.

You shouldn’t need to remove the worm gear and shaft, but if you do, then go back through the posts and look for a John Pitkin post around 2007 – 2008, where he described a puller made from 1”x?” flat bar with a 5/8” hole in the middle and a ?”UNC tapped hole on either side,?two ?"?hex bolts and a collar that clamped to the gearbox input shaft.??The hexbolts are spaced so the heads bear on the casting and are screwed right home, the bar is slipped over the G/B input shaft and the collar locked onto it. Unscrewing the hexbolts?pulls the shaft out ?(sorry I’m not at home so can’t tell you the msg#). Rgds - jv

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#14379

Thanks everyone for the replies.

John how did you ever find my pictures?

I cannot even find them.

Also I seached the files for John Pitkins?

That comes up empty.

My gears are brass and steel, I think, I have not thought of doing this since I posted the pictures.

Ralph

?

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#14381

Hi Ralph, I just found your and JZ's photos by accident because the photo list was ordered by date and they were in the last few photos posted

In the 'Conversations' list there is a 'Message #' search box at top right.? John Pitkins post on the puller?is #?5289. - jv

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#14384

Thanks John, John Pitkins puller description is good, having trouble picturing it

but hopefully it will make more sense when I look at my bandsaw.

Ralph

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How to change the drive Gears on 4x6