开云体育

Grizzly does and the current price is $185, made in Taiwan and their
model also includes an arm lock, i.e. a pin in the arm to keep it
closed, or fully up.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "embfeniscowles12"
<embfeniscowles12@y...> wrote:

There are many sources of supply for the 4x6 Bandsaw. Will someone be
good enough to tell me who supplies the bandsaw with cast iron blade
guide brackets rather than pressed steel. Thanks for your help. Ted
Burrow.

Congratulations on the new saw!?? ...Fit a Bi-Metal Blade and build yourself a "Recirculating Coolant System" (see my photos and article) and you're in for some really cool cutting!

Cheers, Cletus 9Z4CLB

rralbers@... wrote:

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Pat" wrote:

> Hi again,
>
> Just thought I would do an update on the bandsaw decision. On
> Saturday we stopped at Harbor Freight where I was going to purchase
> a planetary ring roller. After I located the roller my wife asked me
> what I thought of the bandsaw they had on display. After looking at
> it I told her the legs seemed a little more wobbly than the Jet, and
> other than that I didn't notice any difference. She then asked which
> saw I would prefer and I told her the HF would do just fine. We then
> left with the ring roller and bandsaw.
>
> I noticed a post on this forum asking about cast iron blade guides.
> Could someone tell me where the blade guides are located.

? The blade guides hold the blade just before the beginning of the
cut and just after the end of the cut.? They should (ideally) be
adjusted to clear the material being cut (and the saw parts) with
as little room to spare as possible.? (I think you have identified
them).

? I took the wobble out of the legs on my saw by adding two pieces
of 1/2" EMT (steel electrical conduit) to the bottom of the legs,
one on each side.? I flattened the ends (keeping both ends of each
piece parallel) and drilled holes to match the wheel-mounting holes
in the legs.? (Measure while the saw is setting on a _flat_, and
_level_ area or you will build in a twist - don't ask).

? When I bolted them on, the legs became _solid_.

? I really like this cheap and effective fix.? I recommend it to you
all - if you don't like the results, just unbolt it and your saw
is back to its original condition.? I don't think you will take it
apart.? ;-)

? RA






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--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Pat" <york01@c...> wrote:

Hi again,

Just thought I would do an update on the bandsaw decision. On
Saturday we stopped at Harbor Freight where I was going to purchase
a planetary ring roller. After I located the roller my wife asked me
what I thought of the bandsaw they had on display. After looking at
it I told her the legs seemed a little more wobbly than the Jet, and
other than that I didn't notice any difference. She then asked which
saw I would prefer and I told her the HF would do just fine. We then
left with the ring roller and bandsaw.

I noticed a post on this forum asking about cast iron blade guides.
Could someone tell me where the blade guides are located.

The blade guides hold the blade just before the beginning of the
cut and just after the end of the cut. They should (ideally) be
adjusted to clear the material being cut (and the saw parts) with
as little room to spare as possible. (I think you have identified
them).

I took the wobble out of the legs on my saw by adding two pieces
of 1/2" EMT (steel electrical conduit) to the bottom of the legs,
one on each side. I flattened the ends (keeping both ends of each
piece parallel) and drilled holes to match the wheel-mounting holes
in the legs. (Measure while the saw is setting on a _flat_, and
_level_ area or you will build in a twist - don't ask).

When I bolted them on, the legs became _solid_.

I really like this cheap and effective fix. I recommend it to you
all - if you don't like the results, just unbolt it and your saw
is back to its original condition. I don't think you will take it
apart. ;-)

RA

Jeff: Could you tell me what brand your saw is please. Thanks. Ted.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Jeff Moskovitz <mosk@a...> wrote:

I am still getting familiar with my new saw, and still trying to

get it

tuned, but one of the things I noticed yesterday was a fair amount

of

vibration -- maybe as much as 1/8" at the blade -- and I am trying

to figure

out the best way to cure this.

What sorts of adjustments have you made to your saws to reduce

vibration? I

spent some time aligning the gear drive pulleys with the motor

pulleys so

the belt traveled a parallel path, but I'm not sure what other

adjustments I

should be making. Before I start diving into adjusting the

eccentric cams

that hold the blade guide bearings, I'd like to get some pointers.

The

manual is so-so on this, so if anyone can point me to a web site I'd
appreciate it.

Also, has anyone ditched the rubber V-belt in favor of a Power Twist
segmented belt? These are supposed to be great for this sort of

thing, but

I'd like to hear orom someone who has done this before I order one.

Thanks,

Jeff

Alan: Thanks for speedy answer. As a company I think I prefer Enco
ove HF. After holidays I shall go to Enco. Regards Ted.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Alan Riley" <ariley@c...> wrote:

Ted, my Enco has cast iron blade guide brackets.

Alan Riley


----- Original Message -----
From: "embfeniscowles12" <embfeniscowles12@y...>
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 4:39 PM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Cast Iron Blade Guide Brackets:

There are many sources of supply for the 4x6 Bandsaw. Will

someone be

good enough to tell me who supplies the bandsaw with cast iron

blade

guide brackets rather than pressed steel. Thanks for your help.

Ted

Burrow.


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Service.

Jeff,

The "vibration issue" is kinda tricky. The frequency of the vibration is
a clue.

I would start without the drive belt. Run the motor... vibration gone?
Install the belt, remove the blade... vibration gone? Install the blade,
etc. This way, you can tell where to start looking for causes.

One thing I have found is that the side rollers on the the blade guides
have to be set to the correct clearance of the blade. If the vibration
occurs once every cycle of the blade, check the clearance of the rollers
at the "joint" of the blade. This can be thicker than the blade width
and cause the saw to "buck" and sometimes stall the saw.

Hope this helps,

Leo (pearland, tx)

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Pat" <york01@c...> wrote:

Hi,

I am new to this forum and need some input on which saw to receive

as

a Christmas present from my wife. I was leaning towards the Harbor
Freight which is presently on sale for $149.99 at the HF store in
Rockford, IL. Then I went to Menards for some electrical supplies

and

eye-balled the Jet HVBS-56M model they had on display. The Jet has

a

price of $259.99 on it. I have only seen pictures of the HF saw,

but

from what I can tell the only difference between the Jet and the HF
is that the Jet has an adjustable material stop, and adjustable
levelers on two of the legs. I then found out that my wife is going
to get the Jet saw on the advice from her brother. I guess I would

be

happy with either saw, but is the Jet worth the extra $100.00. I
would hate to see her spend more money than needed. I will be using
whatever saw I end up with for cutting mild steel angles, bar, and
flats. I have read some of the previous posts but did not find
anything that stated that one was better than the other. Any
information on the differences between the two saws would be

greatly

appreciated.................thanks,

Pat.

Hi again,

Just thought I would do an update on the bandsaw decision. On
Saturday we stopped at Harbor Freight where I was going to purchase a
planetary ring roller. After I located the roller my wife asked me
what I thought of the bandsaw they had on display. After looking at
it I told her the legs seemed a little more wobbly than the Jet, and
other than that I didn't notice any difference. She then asked which
saw I would prefer and I told her the HF would do just fine. We then
left with the ring roller and bandsaw.

I noticed a post on this forum asking about cast iron blade guides.
Could someone tell me where the blade guides are located. If they are
where I believe they are (located on either side of the available
cutting are of the saw blade) mine are cast aluminum, and not cast
iron. The reason I know this is because when we got the saw home I
noticed the side of the box had a large dent in it and opened it up
to make sure all was ok, and it was. According to the box my saw was
made in Taiwan ROC. Thanks for the previous information, and any new
info you can provide about the blade guides. Have to go now so I can
fight with the new ring roller. The manual provides very little
operation instructions.............thanks

Jeff, I have used the stock belt for 3 years with no problem. As for
the vibration make sure you don't have too much downfeed pressure on
the steel, maybe the blade is too loose. Use a good blade not the
junk that comes with the saw. I can take pics for blade adjustments
if you need them. Mine cuts perfect everytime. Hope this helps...Bob
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Jeff Moskovitz <mosk@a...> wrote:

I am still getting familiar with my new saw, and still trying to

get it

tuned, but one of the things I noticed yesterday was a fair amount

of

vibration -- maybe as much as 1/8" at the blade -- and I am trying

to figure

out the best way to cure this.

What sorts of adjustments have you made to your saws to reduce

vibration? I

spent some time aligning the gear drive pulleys with the motor

pulleys so

the belt traveled a parallel path, but I'm not sure what other

adjustments I

should be making. Before I start diving into adjusting the

eccentric cams

that hold the blade guide bearings, I'd like to get some pointers.

The

manual is so-so on this, so if anyone can point me to a web site I'd
appreciate it.

Also, has anyone ditched the rubber V-belt in favor of a Power Twist
segmented belt? These are supposed to be great for this sort of

thing, but

I'd like to hear orom someone who has done this before I order one.

Thanks,

Jeff

Ted, my Enco has cast iron blade guide brackets.

Alan Riley

I am still getting familiar with my new saw, and still trying to get it
tuned, but one of the things I noticed yesterday was a fair amount of
vibration -- maybe as much as 1/8" at the blade -- and I am trying to figure
out the best way to cure this.

What sorts of adjustments have you made to your saws to reduce vibration? I
spent some time aligning the gear drive pulleys with the motor pulleys so
the belt traveled a parallel path, but I'm not sure what other adjustments I
should be making. Before I start diving into adjusting the eccentric cams
that hold the blade guide bearings, I'd like to get some pointers. The
manual is so-so on this, so if anyone can point me to a web site I'd
appreciate it.

Also, has anyone ditched the rubber V-belt in favor of a Power Twist
segmented belt? These are supposed to be great for this sort of thing, but
I'd like to hear orom someone who has done this before I order one.

Thanks,

Jeff

If you live near one of the Rex Tool Supply stores or want to order it
mail order, they have the saw under the brand name "ACRA". It is made in
Taiwan and has the heavier upper frame and cast iron blade guides.

Leo (pearland, tx)

There are many sources of supply for the 4x6 Bandsaw. Will someone be
good enough to tell me who supplies the bandsaw with cast iron blade
guide brackets rather than pressed steel. Thanks for your help. Ted
Burrow.

I have been using a recirculating coolant system everyday for the last 7-months without any problems at all. The coolant flood is very localized and any dripping is usually very small and on the right side of the machine as the blade movement pushes it there.

Cheers, Cletus

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Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
4x6bandsaw group:

Do you use coolant of some type when
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o Yes, some sort of drip/spray/flood system i've added to the saw
o Yes, by hand (wd40, oil can, etc)
o Yes, other
o No, dry is the way to go!


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Thanks!

Pat,

I cannot find a web page that I saw long (several years) ago that compared
the various retailers' 4X6 (and similar nomenclature) saws. My
recollection was that they were pretty close in design and features. Some
saws were reported to be made in Taiwan and others in the PRC. Paint
scheme aside, the primary differences that I recall was differences in the
ratings of the electric motors and that one of the parts was a casting on
some saws (I remember the Homier being one of these) and it was a stamping
or whatever on the majority of the others. I cannot even remember which
part that was; it really was not a discriminator for me because in some
instances stampings can be superior to castings (depends on the application
and design, etc.). Based on that review I purchased a Homier. The
decision to purchase a Homier was based not on the Homier being a superior
saw but rather it was because I could purchase it for $99.95 (plus tax) at
a local Homier sale, it offered the best deal for me. Had Homier not been
available I would have purchased the HF, once again based on price and free
shipping. Had HF not been available, I would probably have driven to
Grizzly and bought their saw, the deciding factor being price and to save
shipping costs. After that, who knows, Enco, Cummins...?

Many companies sell these saws. Homier, HF, Grizzly, Jet, Enco, Delta, and
so on. My belief is that they are pretty much the same basic saw (see
below for a difference of opinion). I - personally - recommend that you
make a factor other than the retailer your discriminating factor (price,
dealer reputation, dealer location, color, etc.) For instance, Enco offers
their 5"X6" (which I am pretty sure is the same saw) for $179.95 but they
also offer a model with a UL motor for $239.95. Maybe the UL motor will be
a discriminator for you. Maybe the Jet's motor is UL, I don't know.
Sometimes you can find a machine tool supplier that offers the choice of a
USA made motor. I don't know if this is the case with the 4X6 but if it
important to you, see if you can find a dealer that offers that option.

I have used my saw but not extensively. I am extremely pleased with it.
It has cut through 2" 12L14 just great. It is arguably the most important
tool in my shop, particularly given that I have an upcoming task that will
require making several hundred cuts in some 1/4" X 1" flat steel.

The below links may be of benefit for you. You may also wish to do a web
search and try to find the comparison that I mentioned but the last time I
tried it I could not find the site.















I do feel that I should note that at least one person feels that the Homier
is not on par with the others. You will find his comments about halfway
down the page (do a search on Homier):



I recommend that you read the entire page because one gent (George
O'Connor) apparently owns or works for a firm that sells replacement parts
and upgrades for the saws and as such has probably seen a lot of them and
can thus gives an opinion based on a wider base of experience than most of
us - and especially me. Incidentally, I believe his reference to:



should probably read:



Regardless of your choice you will probably want to tweak or modify your
saw (improving the base is usually the first modification) and regardless
of your selection I figure you will be happy with the purchase.

Good luck,

Charles





"johnrunchey"
<runchman@amerite To: 4x6bandsaw@...
ch.net> cc:
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Need help deciding which bandsaw
12/11/2003 07:21 to get
PM
Please respond to
4x6bandsaw






I'll chime in in favor of the HF saw also. I bought one of these a
while back, and as someone that usually avoids HF stuff like the
plague, I think this saw is great.

But yes, get a new blade. And keep an eye on it while running so you
can keep the motor from burning up if it jams.

Have fun,

John in Illinois
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Pat" <york01@c...> wrote:

Hi,

I am new to this forum and need some input on which saw to receive as
a Christmas present from my wife. I was leaning towards the Harbor
Freight which is presently on sale for $149.99 at the HF store in
Rockford, IL. Then I went to Menards for some electrical supplies and
eye-balled the Jet HVBS-56M model they had on display. The Jet has a
price of $259.99 on it. I have only seen pictures of the HF saw, but
from what I can tell the only difference between the Jet and the HF
is that the Jet has an adjustable material stop, and adjustable
levelers on two of the legs. I then found out that my wife is going
to get the Jet saw on the advice from her brother. I guess I would be
happy with either saw, but is the Jet worth the extra $100.00. I
would hate to see her spend more money than needed. I will be using
whatever saw I end up with for cutting mild steel angles, bar, and
flats. I have read some of the previous posts but did not find
anything that stated that one was better than the other. Any
information on the differences between the two saws would be greatly
appreciated.................thanks,

Pat.

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--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rswooley49" <rsw49@B...> wrote:
I was wondering if users of coolant systems on these

saws had any concerns about the wiring running to the on/off

switch

getting any contact with the liquid. I realize that the flow is
pretty localized and the slow speed of the blade should not throw

it

around but since the wiring is in that area the thought crossed my
mind. Thanks for any responses. Rich W.

If anything I think that the blade will 'push' the coolant away from
the switch.

I just hate having to spend 2 hours when anybody with a box brake
could knock 'em out in 20 minutes.

I agree. A sheetmetal brake would make short order of this project
and do a neater job.

BTW I just got the HF coolant systems in the mail.
Aside from the cheap tubing they're pretty nice.

I just ordered one of these systems yesterday and it is good to hear
it appears OK. I was wondering if users of coolant systems on these
saws had any concerns about the wiring running to the on/off switch
getting any contact with the liquid. I realize that the flow is
pretty localized and the slow speed of the blade should not throw it
around but since the wiring is in that area the thought crossed my
mind. Thanks for any responses. Rich W.