I now have 2 broken blades. I have no idea what happened to the first, and I can't really remember what I was doing when it broke. The second broke as a result of my own stupidity. (Note to newbies - if you ever disconnect the counter balance spring, make sure you reconnect it before you use the saw again!)
My question - what can I do with the old blades?
My hottest flame is a Bernzo-matic plumbers torch, and my hottest electrical source is an old Weller soldiering gun, so repairing them myself is probably out of the question.
Is it worth it to have them repaired? A new blade is only $20 or so, but I have not priced repair. (I don't know anyone who could do it as a favor, so I would have to pay a shop to get it done.)
I have several old hacksaw blades as a source of spring steel for clips etc.
I am looking at 3 cents a pound recycling, but I thought I would ask before I did that.
Thanks
Karl
|
“Then maybe I might buy some more stainless. I was going to make a set of medieval armor for fighting in the SCA. Long, long ago, and far, far away...?“
?
But no matter where you go, there we are. J
?
But what you really want for that is a Beverly shear or one of those HF clones.
?
?
?
R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer |
Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV
jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@...
1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA
| Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653
?
?
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information protected
by law. If you received this e-mail in error, any review, use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of the e-mail is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies from your system.
|
??? ??? Bill can ya show a link or more info to that cutter ya
bought ?
??? ??? animal
On 6/16/2020 8:48 AM, Bill in OKC too
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I bought a 1x2 meter sheet
of 1mm 304 stainless steel while I was stationed in Turkey
in 1983 or so. Spent the next 7 or 8 years trying to find a
way to cut it. Finally gave it to a friend who wasn't moving
overseas again. About a year ago Steve's Wholesale Tools had
a special on a handcranked ratcheting cutter for up to 1/8"
steel for $32.95. I bought it! Haven't even gotten it out of
the box yet, as I've not had any need to cut sheetmetal here
lately. Hope that's changing soon. Then maybe I might buy
some more stainless. I was going to make a set of medieval
armor for fighting in the SCA. Long, long ago, and far, far
away...?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A
human being should be able to change a diaper,
plan an invasion,
butcher a hog,
conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance
accounts, build a
wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders,
cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a
new
problem, pitch
manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal,
fight
efficiently, die
gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG
(Robert A. Heinlein)
Kerrin,
?
I
hear you! My next project has got to be finding a
way to organize my dozens of attachments. They are
in a pile under the saw’s table.
?
I
never work with stainless steel because my
applications have yet to require it. My one run-in
did not go well for my tooling.
?
Rick
?
From:
[email protected] On Behalf Of kerrin.galvin
via groups.io
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 10:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawing Sheet Metal
?
Hi Rick,
oh no another fixture for the bandsaw! Thankyou it
will be a great addition!
And yes I’m guilty of ripping teeth of a blade while
cutting sheet stainless.
Cheers Kerrin
|
I bought a 1x2 meter sheet of 1mm 304 stainless steel while I was stationed in Turkey in 1983 or so. Spent the next 7 or 8 years trying to find a way to cut it. Finally gave it to a friend who wasn't moving overseas again. About a year ago Steve's Wholesale Tools had a special on a handcranked ratcheting cutter for up to 1/8" steel for $32.95. I bought it! Haven't even gotten it out of the box yet, as I've not had any need to cut sheetmetal here lately. Hope that's changing soon. Then maybe I might buy some more stainless. I was going to make a set of medieval armor for fighting in the SCA. Long, long ago, and far, far away...?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Tuesday, June 16, 2020, 09:38:14 AM CDT, Rick Sparber <rgsparber.ya@...> wrote:
Kerrin, ? I hear you! My next project has got to be finding a way to organize my dozens of attachments. They are in a pile under the saw’s table. ? I never work with stainless steel because my applications have yet to require it. My one run-in did not go well for my tooling. ? Rick ?
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of kerrin.galvin via groups.io
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 10:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawing Sheet Metal ? Hi Rick,
oh no another fixture for the bandsaw! Thankyou it will be a great addition!
And yes I’m guilty of ripping teeth of a blade while cutting sheet stainless.
Cheers Kerrin
|
John, ? You are welcome to save the PDF, but I suggest you check for updates before using it. I just made an update based on John Vreede’s excellent suggestions. ? Rick ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Giordano
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 5:58 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawing Sheet Metal ? Thank you, Rick. I've filed the PDF ready for when I need to build one. I still have one of these, which was last seriously used for cutting out body panels for a custom off-roader I built in 1972-3. ? Here is a fixture I made that lets me precisely saw sheet metal with the saw in the horizontal position.
Rick
|
Just seen this, wasn't expecting you to be awake yet. Didn't expect that you'd use that stuff verbatim.? It was your idea in the first place, so you get to choose how to use it. I think I'll make another version to see if I can improve it.? Was real crap packing ply that I used as proof of concept, but it seemed to work better than I thought it would.?? I've got some offcuts of lovely 15mm 11ply birch that has a phenolic facing both sides that would make a nice permanent version.? Good night - jv
John, ? All great suggestions. I have put them in the article but took the liberty of touching up the grammar. I’m sure I also Americanized it a bit. If you don’t like it, I’ll put it all back. ?
? Rick ? From: [email protected] On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 5:02 AM
To: [email protected] Group Moderators <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawing Sheet Metal ? To cut stainless steel you need to restrict the number of teeth in the?cut, otherwise the teeth just rub and it workhardens the stainless and will dull the blade. The minimum is 3 teeth in cut and if you're cutting 0.040" (1mm) thick sheet, that works out at an angle of 7.6 degrees (near enough 1/2" in 4"). ?at the start of the cut. The angle gets lower as the cut proceeds so that it just gives more teeth-in-cut. Better to set the angle like this than parallel to the surface of the table. Will cut way faster too - jv ? On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 2:23 AM Rick Sparber via <rgsparber=[email protected]> wrote: Here is a fixture I made that lets me precisely saw sheet metal with the saw in the horizontal position.
Rick
|
Kerrin, ? I hear you! My next project has got to be finding a way to organize my dozens of attachments. They are in a pile under the saw’s table. ? I never work with stainless steel because my applications have yet to require it. My one run-in did not go well for my tooling. ? Rick ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of kerrin.galvin via groups.io
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 10:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawing Sheet Metal ? Hi Rick,
oh no another fixture for the bandsaw! Thankyou it will be a great addition!
And yes I’m guilty of ripping teeth of a blade while cutting sheet stainless.
Cheers Kerrin
|
John, ? All great suggestions. I have put them in the article but took the liberty of touching up the grammar. I’m sure I also Americanized it a bit. If you don’t like it, I’ll put it all back. ?
? Rick ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 5:02 AM
To: [email protected] Group Moderators <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawing Sheet Metal ? To cut stainless steel you need to restrict the number of teeth in the?cut, otherwise the teeth just rub and it workhardens the stainless and will dull the blade. The minimum is 3 teeth in cut and if you're cutting 0.040" (1mm) thick sheet, that works out at an angle of 7.6 degrees (near enough 1/2" in 4"). ?at the start of the cut. The angle gets lower as the cut proceeds so that it just gives more teeth-in-cut. Better to set the angle like this than parallel to the surface of the table. Will cut way faster too - jv ? On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 2:23 AM Rick Sparber via <rgsparber=[email protected]> wrote: Here is a fixture I made that lets me precisely saw sheet metal with the saw in the horizontal position.
Rick
|
Nice one Rick. To cut stainless steel you need to restrict the number of teeth in the?cut, otherwise the teeth just rub and it workhardens the stainless and will dull the blade. The minimum is 3 teeth in cut and if you're cutting 0.040" (1mm) thick sheet, that works out at an angle of 7.6 degrees (near enough 1/2" in 4"). ?at the start of the cut. The angle gets lower as the cut proceeds so that it just gives more teeth-in-cut. Better to set the angle like this than parallel to the surface of the table. Will cut way faster too - jv
On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 2:23 AM Rick Sparber via <rgsparber= [email protected]> wrote: Here is a fixture I made that lets me precisely saw sheet metal with the saw in the horizontal position.
Rick
|
Hi Rick,
oh no another fixture for the bandsaw! Thankyou it will be a great addition!
And yes I’m guilty of ripping teeth of a blade while cutting sheet stainless.
Cheers Kerrin
|
Thank you, Rick. I've filed the PDF ready for when I need to build one.
I still have one of these, which was last seriously used for cutting out body panels for a custom off-roader I built in 1972-3.
Here is a fixture I made that lets me precisely saw sheet metal with the saw in the horizontal position.
Rick
|
Here is a fixture I made that lets me precisely saw sheet metal with the saw in the horizontal position.
Rick
|
Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
Since its just one cut - I would rough cut it with something else
about 1/2" too long.? Then slide a 2x4 inside it.? Maybe drill a
couple holes through the waste part of the box tubing and put
screws through the box tubing into the 2x4.? That way its secure
and straight.? Then position it on the band saw so that the box
tubing isn't in the vise at all.? Just the 2x4 is in the vise.?
-Joe
On 5/30/2020 6:17 PM, Lee Schwartz via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks all for the responses.
It's hard to choose among these options. My saw cuts very
well, and the cut to be made need not be super precise (it
will be a base for a belt grinder I'm making) so I think I
will try cutting it vertically, using the 2x4 filler, and
flipping.
Hi
Lee
To
add to the cut/flip/cut method:
1.
Use a bit of 2x4 inside the channel so that the vice
can clamp the 8" section against the vice jaws
2.
Support the other end of the channel on a stand (I
posted a design 24Apr20). Heavy sections hanging
over the edge of the saw actually twist the base and
affect the squareness of cut
3.
Your saw has to have very good vertical squareness
to cut it nicely, If the sawblade pings away from
the cut after cutting a 2" steel section, or scrapes
against it afterward as you raise the saw, then no
way will if cut nicely through 8".? See Rick
Sparber's recent post on horizontal sawing accuracy
for how to check your setup?
4.You
can cut upto 10" (250mm) with a 4x6 and 11.4"
(290mm) with a 5x6?
Accurate
cut/flip/cut is very possible, attached is a photo
of 8" wide 1" alloy plate cut through by flipping
and just aligning the sawblade?with a scribe mark
across the plate. The cut was within 10thou when
squaring?up the edge in the mill later.
On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 5:54 AM Bill
Armstrong < bill_1955@...>
wrote:
A
couple ways…..
?
One,
is set up the channel vertically, cut from
one side as deep as you can go, and then
flip it over and finish the cut. You can
keep the cuts aligned by using the work
stop, and if the parts you are cutting are
too long for the stop, make a longer rod.
?
Another
option, is to make your own jaws. On my
Grizzly saw, I have made several different
jaws for different odd cuts. The saw has
8-3/4” between the guides, so all I need to
do is add a 1-1/2” spacer to the fixed jaw,
and I can cut 8”.
?
Bill
?
Sent
from for Windows 10
?
?
You'll
probably run aground around halfway through
when the arm casting hits the top of the
channel.
On
5/30/20 9:33 AM, Lee Schwartz via
wrote:
I've been lurking here for a
while, but now have a challenge that
could use some input. I have a Detroit
Machinery - branded 4x6 saw,
manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad
bought it, and I've inherited it and by
sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably
well. This saw has changed the game with
my DIY/hobby projects, mostly welding.
I would like to cut a piece
of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which
I know is outside its limits. The saw
will accommodate the channel vertically
(on its side), so I'm wondering what
will happen if I try to cut it. I
absolutely don't want to damage the saw
in any way. Alternatives would be O/A
cutting, angle grinder with cutting
wheel, or haul it to work and ask the
fab shop to cut it on their
industrial-grade band saw (I'm already
indebted there with other personal
favors).
Thanks for your thoughts.
?
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
?
|
Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
Lee
I have cut stock wider that I can get in the saw vice. I remove the 2 vice parts from the saw. I scribe a line where I want to make the cut and use some large c-clamps or drill press clamp to hold the stock to the table. I look down on the top of the blade and line it up with the scribe line. I have cut stock much wider the 6 inch. On cuts that may take a long time to complete I will put a fan on the motor to keep it cool.
Doug On Saturday, May 30, 2020, 12:33:50 PM EDT, Lee Schwartz via groups.io <co_mostro@...> wrote:
I've been lurking here for a while, but now have a challenge that could use some input. I have a Detroit Machinery - branded 4x6 saw, manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad bought it, and I've inherited it and by sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably well. This saw has changed the game with my DIY/hobby projects, mostly welding. ? I would like to cut a piece of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which I know is outside its limits. The saw will accommodate the channel vertically (on its side), so I'm wondering what will happen if I try to cut it. I absolutely don't want to damage the saw in any way. Alternatives would be O/A cutting, angle grinder with cutting wheel, or haul it to work and ask the fab shop to cut it on their industrial-grade band saw (I'm already indebted there with other personal favors). ? Thanks for your thoughts. ? ? Lee
|
Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
Thanks all for the responses. It's hard to choose among these options. My saw cuts very well, and the cut to be made need not be super precise (it will be a base for a belt grinder I'm making) so I think I will try cutting it vertically, using the 2x4 filler, and flipping.
On Saturday, May 30, 2020, 03:13:48 PM MDT, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
Hi Lee To add to the cut/flip/cut method: 1. Use a bit of 2x4 inside the channel so that the vice can clamp the 8" section against the vice jaws 2. Support the other end of the channel on a stand (I posted a design 24Apr20). Heavy sections hanging over the edge of the saw actually twist the base and affect the squareness of cut 3. Your saw has to have very good vertical squareness to cut it nicely, If the sawblade pings away from the cut after cutting a 2" steel section, or scrapes against it afterward as you raise the saw, then no way will if cut nicely through 8".? See Rick Sparber's recent post on horizontal sawing accuracy for how to check your setup? 4.You can cut upto 10" (250mm) with a 4x6 and 11.4" (290mm) with a 5x6?
Accurate cut/flip/cut is very possible, attached is a photo of 8" wide 1" alloy plate cut through by flipping and just aligning the sawblade?with a scribe mark across the plate. The cut was within 10thou when squaring?up the edge in the mill later.
On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 5:54 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
A couple ways…..
?
One, is set up the channel vertically, cut from one side as deep as you can go, and then flip it over and finish the cut. You can keep the cuts aligned by using the work stop, and if the parts you are
cutting are too long for the stop, make a longer rod.
?
Another option, is to make your own jaws. On my Grizzly saw, I have made several different jaws for different odd cuts. The saw has 8-3/4” between the guides, so all I need to do is add a 1-1/2” spacer
to the fixed jaw, and I can cut 8”.
?
Bill
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
?
You'll probably run aground around halfway through when the arm casting hits the top of the channel.
On 5/30/20 9:33 AM, Lee Schwartz via wrote:
I've been lurking here for a while, but now have a challenge that could use some input. I have a Detroit Machinery - branded 4x6 saw, manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad bought it, and I've
inherited it and by sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably well. This saw has changed the game with my DIY/hobby projects, mostly welding.
I would like to cut a piece of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which I know is outside its limits. The saw will accommodate the channel vertically (on its side), so I'm wondering what will happen
if I try to cut it. I absolutely don't want to damage the saw in any way. Alternatives would be O/A cutting, angle grinder with cutting wheel, or haul it to work and ask the fab shop to cut it on their industrial-grade band saw (I'm already indebted there
with other personal favors).
Thanks for your thoughts.
?
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
?
|
John
?
No worries trust me 99% of the time that's what people see. Mandela effect maybe : ) glad I could be of service, I love all the little tune ups we do to our equipment. Have a great weekend.
?
?
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Vreede" <vreededesign@...> To: " [email protected] Group Moderators" < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] CUTTING CARBON FIBRE Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 17:19:29 +1200
Thanks Eloy!? I guess I just saw what expected to see, sorry about the mis-spell. Appreciate you sharing your experience - jv?
?
On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 3:40 PM rangerod1 < rangerod@...> wrote:
John
?
The grit blade causes more resistance in the kerf especially when the carbide grit starts to wear & get dull. Keep the feed at a reasonable rate & both with cut well for you. Carbide tooth for solids & carbide grit for hollow shapes will do you just fine. btw there is no "r" in my first name, no biggie common mistake. Hope the info helps.
?
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Vreede" < vreededesign@...> To: " [email protected] Group Moderators" < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] CUTTING CARBON FIBRE Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:18:11 +1200
Thanks Elroy.
Does the job shudder worse with grit?than teeth? or was that a mistake? (The teeth are more periodic than the the grit so I expected teeth to be worse for shuddering)
Industrial?bandsaws are much more rigid than our 4x6's so not surprising that either of these blades work well on them. May well be that TC has an industrial saw too and he'll be ok with either - jv
?
On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 2:54 PM rangerod1 < rangerod@...> wrote:
John
?
I used these blades on a Kalamazoo swivel head? & a hydraulic power feed DoAll with slipper guides, which worked exceptionally well. The Kala had rollers, both cut reliably & I didn't have issues with either. You're? right a 4 x 6 might shudder with a carbide grit blade but if thats what you have on hand I think you should be able to get thru as long as the the job is not oversized for the machine. Cut mostly carbon fiber & some fiberglass composites. Nothing special just run coolant when possible & once you get started cutting initially you will eventually work your way to the settings that work best for you. These materials are severely aggressive on the blades but they gave good service life & you just have to accept the fact that they will die sooner than cutting metals. A good bi metal blade for metals is the ticket also.
?
____________________________________________________________
Top News -
?
?
?
?
____________________________________________________________Top News -
?
?
____________________________________________________________Top News -
|
Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
Hi Lee To add to the cut/flip/cut method: 1. Use a bit of 2x4 inside the channel so that the vice can clamp the 8" section against the vice jaws 2. Support the other end of the channel on a stand (I posted a design 24Apr20). Heavy sections hanging over the edge of the saw actually twist the base and affect the squareness of cut 3. Your saw has to have very good vertical squareness to cut it nicely, If the sawblade pings away from the cut after cutting a 2" steel section, or scrapes against it afterward as you raise the saw, then no way will if cut nicely through 8".? See Rick Sparber's recent post on horizontal sawing accuracy for how to check your setup? 4.You can cut upto 10" (250mm) with a 4x6 and 11.4" (290mm) with a 5x6?
Accurate cut/flip/cut is very possible, attached is a photo of 8" wide 1" alloy plate cut through by flipping and just aligning the sawblade?with a scribe mark across the plate. The cut was within 10thou when squaring?up the edge in the mill later.
On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 5:54 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
A couple ways…..
?
One, is set up the channel vertically, cut from one side as deep as you can go, and then flip it over and finish the cut. You can keep the cuts aligned by using the work stop, and if the parts you are
cutting are too long for the stop, make a longer rod.
?
Another option, is to make your own jaws. On my Grizzly saw, I have made several different jaws for different odd cuts. The saw has 8-3/4” between the guides, so all I need to do is add a 1-1/2” spacer
to the fixed jaw, and I can cut 8”.
?
Bill
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
?
You'll probably run aground around halfway through when the arm casting hits the top of the channel.
On 5/30/20 9:33 AM, Lee Schwartz via wrote:
I've been lurking here for a while, but now have a challenge that could use some input. I have a Detroit Machinery - branded 4x6 saw, manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad bought it, and I've
inherited it and by sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably well. This saw has changed the game with my DIY/hobby projects, mostly welding.
I would like to cut a piece of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which I know is outside its limits. The saw will accommodate the channel vertically (on its side), so I'm wondering what will happen
if I try to cut it. I absolutely don't want to damage the saw in any way. Alternatives would be O/A cutting, angle grinder with cutting wheel, or haul it to work and ask the fab shop to cut it on their industrial-grade band saw (I'm already indebted there
with other personal favors).
Thanks for your thoughts.
?
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
?
|
Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
Hi Lee? Here's a couple more ways. 1. Make a sub-table that drops on top of the vice to hold the work. I've checked on my 1987 Taiwanese saw and you can only JUST cut 8x1.75" if you position it it in exactly the right place on such a table, so you'll have to juggle when making the table to get?the guide roller assemblies to clear at each end of the cut.. The sub-table is just a piece of say 10" wide, thick mdf or ply that has a 4~6" wide cleat (can be of same material) screwed or glued underneath for the vice jaws to grip on, the wider the piece the more stable the sub-table will be as the tops of the vice jaws support it. Screw & glue a strip of same material as a fence on top of the table when you find out where it needs to go. You'll need to make ~1.25" cutouts for the guide roller assemblies to pass by the table at the cutting edge. To get maximum support there, these cutouts should be angled?like the motion of the arc of the sawframe. Pictures should make it a bit more self explanatory.? The pictures show the sub-table I use for bolting or gluing awkward pieces to that I can't cut any other way so it doesn't have a fence but you get the idea. No great accuracy needed to make it as you can square up the cutting edge after its all glued and screwed together by cutting an 1/8" sliver off that edge, then use a good set-square to set out the line of the fence so the finished cut is square? Use G-clamps around the edge to hold the steel in place.? For one-off cuts on hard to hold stuff I use hot-melt glue, so its very?versatile. Another advantage is that because its raised up above the vice table the blade is cutting through the horizontal leg of the steel at an angle and it goes MUCH quicker. 2. One that people don't necessarily think of, is to remove both jaws of the vice altogether and clamp the workpiece directly to the vice table.? Much more work in resetting the saw afterwards but if you just have to do the cut and there's no other way....? ? Rgds - jv?
On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 5:54 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
A couple ways…..
?
One, is set up the channel vertically, cut from one side as deep as you can go, and then flip it over and finish the cut. You can keep the cuts aligned by using the work stop, and if the parts you are
cutting are too long for the stop, make a longer rod.
?
Another option, is to make your own jaws. On my Grizzly saw, I have made several different jaws for different odd cuts. The saw has 8-3/4” between the guides, so all I need to do is add a 1-1/2” spacer
to the fixed jaw, and I can cut 8”.
?
Bill
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
?
You'll probably run aground around halfway through when the arm casting hits the top of the channel.
On 5/30/20 9:33 AM, Lee Schwartz via wrote:
I've been lurking here for a while, but now have a challenge that could use some input. I have a Detroit Machinery - branded 4x6 saw, manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad bought it, and I've
inherited it and by sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably well. This saw has changed the game with my DIY/hobby projects, mostly welding.
I would like to cut a piece of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which I know is outside its limits. The saw will accommodate the channel vertically (on its side), so I'm wondering what will happen
if I try to cut it. I absolutely don't want to damage the saw in any way. Alternatives would be O/A cutting, angle grinder with cutting wheel, or haul it to work and ask the fab shop to cut it on their industrial-grade band saw (I'm already indebted there
with other personal favors).
Thanks for your thoughts.
?
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
?
|
Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
A couple ways…..
?
One, is set up the channel vertically, cut from one side as deep as you can go, and then flip it over and finish the cut. You can keep the cuts aligned by using the work stop, and if the parts you are
cutting are too long for the stop, make a longer rod.
?
Another option, is to make your own jaws. On my Grizzly saw, I have made several different jaws for different odd cuts. The saw has 8-3/4” between the guides, so all I need to do is add a 1-1/2” spacer
to the fixed jaw, and I can cut 8”.
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Bill
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Sent from for Windows 10
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From: Jerry Durand
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
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You'll probably run aground around halfway through when the arm casting hits the top of the channel.
On 5/30/20 9:33 AM, Lee Schwartz via groups.io wrote:
I've been lurking here for a while, but now have a challenge that could use some input. I have a Detroit Machinery - branded 4x6 saw, manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad bought it, and I've
inherited it and by sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably well. This saw has changed the game with my DIY/hobby projects, mostly welding.
I would like to cut a piece of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which I know is outside its limits. The saw will accommodate the channel vertically (on its side), so I'm wondering what will happen
if I try to cut it. I absolutely don't want to damage the saw in any way. Alternatives would be O/A cutting, angle grinder with cutting wheel, or haul it to work and ask the fab shop to cut it on their industrial-grade band saw (I'm already indebted there
with other personal favors).
Thanks for your thoughts.
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--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
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Re: Cutting oversized stock in the 4x6
You'll probably run aground around halfway
through when the arm casting hits the top of the channel.
On 5/30/20 9:33 AM, Lee Schwartz via
groups.io wrote:
I've been
lurking here for a while, but now have a challenge that could
use some input. I have a Detroit Machinery - branded 4x6 saw,
manufactured in 1981 in Taiwan. My Dad bought it, and I've
inherited it and by sheer luck got it cutting unbelievably well.
This saw has changed the game with my DIY/hobby projects, mostly
welding.
?
I would
like to cut a piece of 8x1.75" steel channel with it, which I
know is outside its limits. The saw will accommodate the channel
vertically (on its side), so I'm wondering what will happen if I
try to cut it. I absolutely don't want to damage the saw in any
way. Alternatives would be O/A cutting, angle grinder with
cutting wheel, or haul it to work and ask the fab shop to cut it
on their industrial-grade band saw (I'm already indebted there
with other personal favors).
?
Thanks for
your thoughts.
?
?
Lee
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886
&
|
@KarlH
Bill in OKC too
John Vreede
Jerry Durand