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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGVMSgLtJ4I&ab_channel=Naomi%27SexyCyborg%27Wu

Totally familiar... Watch these videos I made about my saw! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzjqDqpWRCA&list=PLz2A001hMBoQjJrC268cd6IzjxXQYZJEk

Mark Kimball, You saw looks just like mine. I've posted a bunch of picture just as a reference but to also show you the elevation plate. Note where I ground the clearance for the switch. This was done

John, I agree 100%. This saw looks just like mine. Mine cut fine when I got is but the blade guides were deflecting the blade significantly downward. From what I am seeing it looks like the head needs

That's a very weird alignment. Sorry for more questions but in the planview shot of the blade and slot, is the fixed jaw parallel and the blade square to the pivot axis? (because it's slanting across

As promised, some photos. 1:? Blade alignment with no shims on the support bracket: Alignment with .050" shim stack: As low as she goes (look particularly at the blade guide on the right -- it is

I'll take and post some photos in a bit. I've been using a plastic bag to determine where the sawframe is hitting the base.? Definitely around the switch.? Using that information, I ground off a

Mark, can you take some photographs. From what I understand from your description, there is enough movement in the slip joint between the pivot arm casting (yr #121) and the sawframe that the blade is

Loosening the M10 screws on the support bracket, part #121, and pushing the sawframe over as far as it could go -- to the point where the blade was close to hitting the outfeed support nearest the

This is confusing to think about but also correct. I think I need to do a new video which includes the importance of the back jaw.

Hi all Just re-reading this thread to see if there's something I've missed and it occurs to me that MarkK has missed and important point in msg 16008 when he said: "Rotating the fixed jaw so it's

Mark2's comments are spot on, it takes very little fore and aft movement at the slip joint to move the head of the sawframe sideways quite a bit. Can you give some measurements: * How much does the

Yes I agree, the amount of adjustment at this point would be limited by the clearance of the pivot point. However, it would not take much movement in this area to make a significant change at the

John, No, the saw hasn't been dissasembled -- at least, not other than removing the blade guide hardware to examine it.? Nothing associated with the pivot shaft -- spacer included -- has been

I don't think it is any particular brand or model of saw. These problems occur on all brands, from out of adjustment and not knowing what 'properly adjusted' is, all the way up to mis-manufacture at

??? ??? I had one of the HF saws that I bought @ 25 years back I gave to a bud . It was one of the green saws . Now I have a newer saw it's one of the dark red maybe some kind of purple that I

Still not sure why your saw suddenly won't cut all the way through - did you disassemble it at some point? The left-right position of the saw frame is set primarily by the spacer on the pivot shaft

One of the things I love about hobby groups like this is the way they invent ways to solve the manufacturing deficiencies of inexpensive machines and tune them to perform like much pricier items.

Hi Terry Yes it will be, but maybe not as much as you might want. However, whatever shortcomings you may find can be easily fixed. There are 3 major drawbacks of the original flimsy sheet steel

Nice!