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> > I have a?bimba m 125 air cylinder.? Can I convert it to? fluid to use as a > down feed for my 4x6 bandsaw

FYI Chris, and all, Here’s the Irwin blade I have been buying: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03165917?rItem=03165917 My MSC price is $21.99. It was $14.99 last time I bought a couple.

Thanks to Bill and Terry

Following. wrote:

Nothing wrong with that. Free is a very good price, and also my favorite! ;) Until you do add a cylinder, for occasional cuts in thin materials, it’s easy enough to control the feed rate by hand. A

I had no choice , my saw was a gift fo

The easiest solution for cutting thin material with a 10-14 blade, is a down-feed control cylinder. My Grizzly saw came with a cylinder, which was one of the reasons I chose it over the HF. Bill

I like a bimetal 10/14 for most cutting . Sometimes I put a finer blade on for thin stock . Rule of thumb is that you need at least 3 teeth in the material you're cutting . I've stripped teeth by not

I suggest a bi-metal 10-14 tooth. That is all I use for everything, for steel, aluminum, bronze, and plastics. Lenox is an excellent choice. I started using Irwin blades several years ago, when Enco

Brand new owner and want to buy a good Lenox blade. I’ll be cutting bar stock from 1/4” through 1” and angle iron up to 2”x2”x1/4” and square tubing 1/8” thick 2”x2”. All mild steel.

3.14 times the diameter of one wheel plus 2 times the distance between wheel centers. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. +1 408-356-3886 www.DurandInterstellar.com & www.Durandinterstellar.ru

theirs a band saw blade calculator on line google & several should come up ??? ??? animal

I would measure the total distance around both wheels by wrapping a non-stretching string around the path taken by the blade then measure how long the string has to be before making any assumptions

Hi Jared Yeah yours is special, I think there are some pictures of a Duracraft waaaay back in the photos section. Can't see from your pictures but I think the Duracraft saw had the hinge between base

You’re welcome Jared! I saw your mill table in one of your pics….so I figured you have all the right toys! Wouldn’t be a difficult bunch of parts to build actually, as you have the upper assy to

Absolutely great information, thank you. I do have a lathe, mill, and welder, and so is my plan to just fabricate it myself. Your insights, I’m sure, will prove to be invaluable. I can’t imagine

It looks similar to the sliding bracket, just shorter, and with a drilled & tapped hole instead of the long slot. Like this: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/adjustable-bracket-assembly-p-440363.html

Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. Out here in Sacramento, CA. So I picked up this old boy a week ago for $20. Yeah I know, it’s a 4x7 and not a 4x6, but its the same saw basically. The motor

its kinda like a fuse , it will burn out if it get's too hat? ie: motor overload. typically found in magnetic starters ??? ??? animal

A "heater" in the sense used in this discussion, is a heating element in the overload relay. IT replicates(or tries to) the heating effect seen by the motor. This heats up either a bimetallic strip,