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Forgot to say, pls include a photo of the tension guide block (the part that slides up and down to tension the blade, that the driven wheel axle is bolted to, taken from the back of the saw frame

John, Thanks I have a couple of pictures. They are attached. As you can see, the drive shaft and wheel looks to have been modified. I can't confirm because I have nothing to compare against. I believe

Looks like I need to replace the blade guide bearings on my 4x6 . I'm being lazy ... anyone have the number handy ? -- ?Snag , in "my back hurts because I've been processing firewood" mode .

Hi Darren Bainbridge made saws a lot like a 4x6. I'm guessing a model 712 is a 7"x12". If it is similar to their smaller ones, the same things that fix 4x6's will fix it. Please post a photo of yours

I realize this is a bit off topic. However, I've recently come to own an old Bainbridge 712. While it isn't the best out there, the price was right and I couldn't pass it up. It is quite functional

Hi Steve The wheel set is 400mm (16") overall width and 180mm (7") from back edge of casting to centreline of axle. rgds - jv.

John, great document thank you for pointing that out. I don't have the original stand, would you mind measuring have far back from the rear of the casting of the saw base your wheels are and how far

Sorry I'm late to this discussion. The Files section of this site has a doc I wrote on changing motors (Replacing 4x6 bandsaw motors v3.pdf). At the back of the doc is a section addressing stability

Thanks David. I'll consider how I can incorporate a drip pan, I'm planning on using a fog system rather than a flood coolant system so a large collection area isn't as important. I've only read what

If I was to make a stand for my saw I’d make it large enough to support a large drip pan that could catch run offs in the vertical position. If you go this route the wheels should end up well behind

"You might want to rethink how far back to put the rear legs/wheels. When the saw is lifted to the vertical position, it is located quite far back and there is a lot of weight out there. I had to redo

Hi Guys, I’ve had my saw for about 15 years. I put a 2 wheel home built set of wheels on it at that time. They worked ok, a pain to move about in my current shop. So a couple of years back I

Well here is my homebrewed castored 14" Delta <https://i0.wp.com/dor-things.biz/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/4.jpg?resize=768%2C576> . Works great! Ralph 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

I'll post a photo once completed. Mine will only have three legs, similar to this one https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/stand-in-jpg.92194/ as the floor in my workshop is uneven. I figure I

Thank you for all your replies and posting photos, very helpful and reinforced my thoughts on just mounting direct to the wheels. The saw will get moved round a bit so I doubt flat spots will occur

Well, mine is still on the original stand. And hasn’t moved but once or twice in 37 years. When I had to pull it out to cut something that was just too long for where it normally sits. So I guess

I would agree that the saw is tail heavy (depending on how you look at it!), but the advantage of a cart (HF or homebrew) is that the extra size and weight of stored items makes the saw much more

I found my old folder and added some new photos.? (it's: Dave's 4x6 Packard)? My memory must be going- I've been thinking it was labelled as a "Federal", but apparently it was a "Packard Precision";

If I were doing it, I would have the wheels just clear of the floor, for two reasons. First, leaving the weight of the saw on the wheels will eventually result in a flat spot on each wheel. Second,

Please post some photos.&#92;, I hope to fix mine this fall.?Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. To: "4x6bandsaw@..." <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: