I believe that's what's called for in the manual? But should work. I
put mobil 1 in once just to see. Didn't make much of a difference.

Ryan

Hi,

I guess I haven't posted my helpp message so here it is...Hello Everyone!

I have a HF 4X6 Bandsaw. I'm also into tractors, welding and related
metal work. I've learned a lot about the saw from reading these
posts. I am actually anxious to see the answer to Paul A.'s question
on variable pitch blades.

Anyway, I've read a lot about changing the gear oil and
I'm going to do that. I've already cleaned out the gear box. My
question is this; I've already got a couple of quarts of Pennzoil
80-90W gear oil on hand. Will that work okay?

Thanks!

Tony C.

First I want to say hello. I signed up on this board a few days ago
and have been reading the past messages from day one. I've picked up
some good tips and ideas there.

I'm a TV engineer and have a metal shop in suport of that profession
as well as for personal projects. I bought my 4x6 from Grizzly about
3 years ago and it has proved to be an excellent purchase and one of
the most useful and used tools in the shop (which also has a mill-
drill, sheet metal machine, SB9 lathe, drill press, grinder, and a
Unmimat). The 4x6 worked very well from day one and I have had none
of the problems with angled cuts or sand in the gear box. Like
everyone else, I have made a number of additions and mods. But one
thing I have never felt the need to change is the legs. But then I
rarely use very heavy stock.

I bought about six or seven of the cheaper carbon steel blades with
the saw and I've broke most of them so, I need to buy some more.
I've been using an 18 TPI blade for most work but have a 14 TPI that
has been used a little and a very fine tooth blade (24?) that I've
never used. I've seen the comments about bi-metal blades and am
convinced they are the way to go.

My question: What is the advantage of the variable pitch blades over
a fixed pitch? Are there any jobs where they are a disadvantage?
How are they actually made? Do they have two pitches that alternate
or does the pitch change in a smooth manner from one value to the
other and then back?

Paul A.

Yes it will do a good, much faster job of cutting your
material.

just a tip, get one that has the cast iron blade guard
arms, much better than the ones with cast alum. arms.

Sparky

--- cwend2002 <cwend@...> wrote:

i tried searching, but couldnt find the answer. i
have a chopsaw,
but its sure not very good at cutting through large
thick steel. i
will be cutting 2x4 1/4" rectangular tubing and 1/4"
4x4 angle iron.
i spent about an hour on a piece of the tube and
only got maybe
halfway through. its great on 1/8" and less stuff,
but not the thick
i guess. i was lookin at getting one of these metal
bandsaws.
understanding i will have to get a newer, better
bimetal blade, will
it be capable of cutting through the thicker metal
better?

cory

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online.

Yes, Cory, this bandsaw will absolutely cut that material. The 2X4x1/4"
piece you mention will cut thrugh in about two minutes while you watch
with your arms folded! Of course, drinking a beer is optional.

Tony

---

Hi Cory. I use a Harbor Freight 4 X 6 bandsaw, with a bimetal blade, 10 tpi, and I cut bigger stuff than that easily with it. I don't have a chopsaw, so I can't compare from personal experience, but I can tell you that my old HF can cut through your steel much faster than your chopsaw...
";-)


At 03:13 PM 2/9/2004, cwend2002 wrote:

i tried searching, but couldnt find the answer. i have a chopsaw,
but its sure not very good at cutting through large thick steel. i
will be cutting 2x4 1/4" rectangular tubing and 1/4" 4x4 angle iron.
i spent about an hour on a piece of the tube and only got maybe
halfway through. its great on 1/8" and less stuff, but not the thick
i guess. i was lookin at getting one of these metal bandsaws.
understanding i will have to get a newer, better bimetal blade, will
it be capable of cutting through the thicker metal better?

cory

Regards,
Bob

I think that your chopsaw mustn't be very good.

I gave a 14" one to my Dad (inexpensive model picked up at Grizzly) and
we used it to cut through a piece of rail in a few minutes (had to flip
the track over since it was too big to cut in one pass). I'm using the
hunk of rail as an anvil.

As for the 4x6, getting the bimetal blade will cut much better. I'm not
sure how it will compare in performance to a good chop saw. So far the
largest thing I've cut is some 1-3/4" solid-brass rounds.

--
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada

i tried searching, but couldnt find the answer. i have a chopsaw,
but its sure not very good at cutting through large thick steel. i
will be cutting 2x4 1/4" rectangular tubing and 1/4" 4x4 angle iron.
i spent about an hour on a piece of the tube and only got maybe
halfway through. its great on 1/8" and less stuff, but not the thick
i guess. i was lookin at getting one of these metal bandsaws.
understanding i will have to get a newer, better bimetal blade, will
it be capable of cutting through the thicker metal better?

cory

Finished my hydraulic down feed mod., re-did the socket end pivot.
Now the saw cuts very smoothly, with no bounce in the head, and no
slop in the socket pivot.

I highly recommend the mod. to all 4x6 owners.

Uploaded some pictures in "Sparky" folder of completed unit.

Sparky

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 4x6bandsaw
group.

File : /Delta 20-330.pdf
Uploaded by : hcsii2000 <clavette.michel@...>
Description : Delta 4x6 bandsaw manual

You can access this file at the URL



To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit



Regards,

hcsii2000 <clavette.michel@...>

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Bill H" <hkpsg@a...> wrote:
when I cut anything, the cut is allways slanted,

the cut moves towards the cut off end as the blade moves down. Im
hoping it is just the blade guides needing to be set.

Hi Bill,

The first few cuts I made with my new saw were also angled, had me
bumfuzzled for a minute until I realized that the stck I was cutting
was not laying exactly parralell with the deck of the saw. Put a
couple of shims under the back of the long bar and it cut clean and
true. Now I use a level on my bar stock to check before cutting.

Give this a try and see if it worms for you.

Regards

BK

P.S. Definately drain, flush and refill your gearbox. Just because
you have already run it dosen't mean it won't help.

Happy Cutting

BK

Hi - new to the list (didn't see the thing about saying hello on the home page for a while). Thanks guys - I didn't think to flush the gearbox until I saw it here. No sand but I did have a little bit of flashing or shaving in there. Didn't look like it came from the gears, but sure couldn't do anything good for em. I've actually had my saw for quite some time - was the first piece of the shop I bought when it went on sale, stuck it in my brothers garage for <ahem> longer than I care to admit. After I moved and got my mill - I finally got it assembled and set up.

Tonight I cut some ears out of angle tonight for my mounting tabs - first real work done with it. Unfortunately, when I had the 16ga cut for the pan - I only measured the main body of the saw - and not the part that juts out for the work stop. I think I have all of $2 in the pan, the rest is just time - but I've decided to hold off on the rest of the stand until the HF coolant pump/tank thing comes in to forestall any more suprises like that one.

I'm having trouble getting the cutoff tab adjusted right. It seems the switch is mounted a bit high - though lowering the switch and raising the tab should be the same thing. Either it cuts off too soon, or else it comes to rest on the switch so gently that it just sits and runs leaning on the toggle.

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---

DOALL is a very fine North American made machine, heavy and rigid as is the
price. Top of the line as far as I am concerned.
While we are on the subject of coolant (in other postings) better to
consider to add two sets of rotary wire brush wheels to cleam the swarf out
of the tooth gullet than all that messy coolant.
Steve Roberts~Professional Engineer
Mississauga/Toronto

I ran into some more band saw improvements sites today:

General improvements:

Band Saw Welder:

Dave Brown
Heritage Smithing
Green Bay, WI

Hi,

I'm sending this out to the owner/moderators of a bunch of groups that
I've started to receive SpamGuard messages from (you'll only see this if
you read via email).

So far, every single SpamGuard message (about 20 across several groups)
that I've received has been a normal message that has been incorrectly
tagged as spam.

It turns out that Yahoo will allow this feature to be turned off.

To turn it off, goto the group home page, click on Management, Messages
(under Group Settings), Postings and Archives [Edit] and you can control
SpamGuard in the right hand column of push buttons.

So, if you wish, you can turn it off.

--
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada

I have not seen any DoAll saws that are a 4x6. I just checked their
web site their saws start at 9", But I have been wrong before..Bob

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