I bought my 4x6 from HF about 3 months ago for $99.00 and love it.
It sure beats the hack saw. I don't use it everyday but it sure is
nice to know it's sitting there waiting for me.I haven't had any
problems with it so far.I have done a few mods. to it. Just buy one
and have fun watching it do the work.

Bill

Pete
I bought on eat HF for 99.00 a couple of months ago, so far it has been fine

Clint

Hi Pete,

I have the 4 x 6 HF model. I am very happy with it's performance. Arrived
mostly assembled. I easily completed the rest of the assembly in less than
an hour. It cut's metal like nobody's business.
I have a Lennox (?) bi-metal blade and band aide fluid arriving Tuesday from
J&L.
I use mine almost on a daily basis. I have a small business that I need it
for. What I would do differently ?? I would save up some more loot and buy
the first size up that comes with a fluid cooling system and a larger/better
motor.

As it is, I will be doing what this fellow has done:


I think I will buy a cart rather than make one. HF has a fluid system as
does Enco and J&L too.
With so much use, I think a fluid system added to it will help.
The next step is to replace the motor with a better one if this one dies at
some point.

FWIW/IMHO
Lenord

Dear Friends....Looking to purchase a small 4X6 size metal cutting
bandsaw. Would like to hear any input from other fellow enthusiasts
that have purchased Grizzly/Jet/HF and any other makes. The best
value I've found so far has been the HF. Please feel free to share
your experiences. Any insight, direction, assistance or
recommendations you can offer will be appreciated. You may email me
direct if you choose.Thank you all for taking the time to review this
request. Kindest Regards - Pete pmark@...

Thanks for the warning, David.

Seems a lot of places build their business on small orders, but if they
get into industrial supply, they don't want to deal with the people that
helped them get started. (orders too small to deal with)

Leo (pearland, tx)



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the .

WARNING: This electronic mail (E-mail) document may contain privileged information?intended for?the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and subsequently destroy the document/file. Unlawful copying and/or dissemination of the information/data contained herein may be treated as copyright infringement and prosecuted as such.

---

Do you Yahoo!?
Free with sync to Outlook(TM).

Thanks for the warning, David.

Seems a lot of places build their business on small orders, but if they
get into industrial supply, they don't want to deal with the people that
helped them get started. (orders too small to deal with)

Leo (pearland, tx)

开云体育

Thanks Chris,

most of the time i am cutting wood vertikal. Saw shapes...


Howie


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Chris Baugher

<cbaugher_yahoo@b...> wrote:

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 4x6bandsaw
group.

File : /coolant system.pdf
Uploaded by : cberkeley <cberkeley@...>
Description : Recirculating Coolant System

You can access this file at the URL



To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit



Regards,

cberkeley <cberkeley@...>

The clamp to secure the work to be cut has a movable jaw. This jaw slides in a
slot which is machined into the base. Below it is a flat plate which slides
below the slot. These two pieces are held together with a cap screw.
When my saw arrived, I found that if I tightened down this cap screw, it
made the movable jaw immovable. However, I made a metal spacer which fits
between the movable jaw and the plate which slides below it. The spacer has a
hole through it to accomodate the cap screw.By adjusting the thickness of the
spacer I was able to tighten the cap screw fully, and still move the movable
jaw back and forth.
The bottom of the slot is not machined. You may have to barber some
material off the bottom of the slot to allow the movable jaw+spacer+flat
plate+cap screw to slide back and forth easily. Fortunately, I did not need to
do this.
I hope this expanded explanation helps.
Rupert

Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 02:19:54 -0000
From: "Paul" <proosta@...>
Subject: Re: Chinese fasteners and miscellaneous

You need to make a spacer to fit above the clamp screw so that there

is a minimum amount of slop in the movable vise jaw

Kindly splain.

Paul R



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Rupert N. Evans
101 W Windsor Rd. #4107, Urbana, IL 61802-6697;
217-337-7833
Author of Book-On-Demand Publishing
I love to print and bind books and make model stationary steam engines

You need to make a spacer to fit above the clamp screw so that there

is a minimum amount of slop in the movable vise jaw

Kindly splain.

Paul R

This rolled by a few weeks ago...



Might be of interest.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Barry Nesheim" <wcbarry@h...>
wrote:

It seems to me that HSM and or MW at one time published a project

to make your own jig to braze saw blades.now exactly what issue..that
I don't know,but surely there is someone in this group who has that
info..

Wcbarry

It is not correct that all Chinese machine tools have metric fasteners. My HF
4x6 bandsaw has mostly fractional inch fasteners. The screws which form the
pivot for the motor mount, however, have a bastard thread which is 1/2"
diameter and fewer than 13 threads per inch. One of these screws was missing,
but a 1/2-13 UNC cap screw fitted the sheet metal captive "nut."
There is no stop to maintain the saw in an upright position. I took a
seven-inch-long piece of 1/8 x 1 flat stock, drilled a #19 hole 1.25" from one
end, laid it flat on the table near its end below the motor, pivoted it on an
8-32 screw tapped into the table, and filed a bit off the top of one corner.
Now when the saw is vertical, I rotate this steel bar to fit one corner under
the cast arm which holds the big spring. This locks the saw in a vertical
position, and is out of the way during normal use.
You need to make a spacer to fit above the clamp screw so that there is a
minimum amount of slop in the movable vise jaw. My saw came with no spacer, so
that the moveable vise jaw was immovable or floppy, depending on how tight its
hold-down screw was adjusted.
I braced the legs and put a 6-32 screw on the face of one leg to serve as
a hanger for the saw table when it is not in use. Some people make a new
table, but I find the one that was supplied to be adequate.
After these mocifications, this is a better saw than the U.S. made Wells
that I used in the shop many years ago.
Rupert

Rupert N. Evans
101 W Windsor Rd. #4107, Urbana, IL 61802-6697;
217-337-7833
Author of Book-On-Demand Publishing
I love to print and bind books and make model stationary steam engines

开云体育

Would anybody like to share their source for lennox diemaster II
blades I keep hearing about?? Either phone/internet order or San
Diego or LA would be helpful.

Thanks,
Vay



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the .

WARNING: This electronic mail (E-mail) document may contain privileged information?intended for?the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and subsequently destroy the document/file. Unlawful copying and/or dissemination of the information/data contained herein may be treated as copyright infringement and prosecuted as such.

---

Do you Yahoo!?
- Faster. Easier. Bingo.

On Fri, 23 May 2003 sepost@... wrote:

I picked up one of these 4x6 saws from a local store the other day and
I want to make sure they're truly all the same.

What store did it come from? I have the HF 4x6.

Comparing mine with
the manual on the HF site it looks like the castings are the same. The
question I have is about "fit & finish". On mine the screws are of
very poor quality - the recesses on two set screws stripped out under
moderate pressure when putting on the belt pulleys. The screws holding the
capacitor cover to the motor were loose and when I snugged them up the
Philips slots almost stripped - I've never encountered such soft screws.

Yeah, most of the chinese tools are like that. My lathe was the same way.

The blade support bearings aren't shiney, instead having minor scratches
on their surfaces.

Mine are the same.

The motor says 3/4hp on the cover plate.

The motor that comes stock on the 4x6 is kindof a joke. I just looked on
mine and it says 1 HP, which is absurd! They have a tendency to overheat.
A couple weeks ago I bought a 1/3 HP replacement motor also from HF
($29.99), and it works way better; smoother, quieter, and cooler. The 1/3
HP is probably even realistic. Only thing is the new motor has a smaller
shaft so I had to make a sleeve, but no big deal.

It starts
and runs with the belt disconnected but won't start with the belt on. It
just sits and hums.

Someone mentioned the capacitor, sounds like it to me also.

I can turn the driven pulley by hand and it doesn't
seem like a lot of resistance. I adjusted the blade tension, bearing
clearance, and drive belt tension and none make a difference, so at the
very least I need a new motor.

Yeah, definitely something with the motor.

I'm taking the saw back to the store today for a replacement so I'll get
new setscrews, blade bearings, and motor, but I'm wondering if I should
just get a refund and buy one somewhere else. Are these kinds of things
expected on all these saws or would I be better off getting one from HF?
Does HF do better quality control and use better fasteners and motors?

The HF is probably not a whole lot better. But the quality control on
these Asian tools varies widely. Somethimes you get one that's perfect,
other times you don't.

If this is the kind of quality to expect regardless of importer then I'll
just buckle down and have the store replace this one. It's not too big
a deal to replace all the fasteners with decent quality ones and even a
new motor if I have to, but if I'll get all that right out of the box
from HF I'd rather go that route.

Either way if you get one for around $200, it's worth every penny, even if
it needs some tuning. It saves SO much time and energy. Even after
having it for several months I still like to watch it while it's happily
cutting away.
I guess it's the simple things...

C|

--
Scott Post sepost@...


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "vaysam" <vaysam@y...> wrote:

Would anybody like to share their source for lennox diemaster II
blades I keep hearing about? Either phone/internet order or San
Diego or LA would be helpful.

Thanks,
Vay

Here is a partial list of what J&L Industrial has available. You can
find them at www.jlindustrial.com. The rule for blades is a minimum
of 3 teeth in the part, so an 18 tooth will handle down to about 1/8"
a 10/14 variable will handle up to about 3/8". I like the 6/10
variable for heavier stock, especially aluminum to get the chips out.
Even at these prices these blades are a bargain because of theit
longevity
Ralph Meiser

XFR-80157-L
(99 %)

5' 4 X 1/2 X .0250 X 10/14T
DIEMASTER BANDSAW BLADE
MANUFACTURER: LENOX
Price: $21.35/EA

XFR-80159-C
(99 %)

5' 4 X 1/2 X .0250 X 18T
LENOX DIEMASTER BANDSAW BLADE
MANUFACTURER: LENOX
Price: $21.35/EA

XFR-80366-J
(99 %)

5' 4 X 1/2 X .0350 X 10T
LENOX DIEMASTER BANDSAW BLADE
MANUFACTURER: LENOX
Price: $21.35/EA

XFR-81448-C
(99 %)

5' 4 X 1/2 X .0250 X 6/10T
DIEMASTER BANDSAW BLADE
MANUFACTURER: LENOX
Price: $21.35/EA

Would anybody like to share their source for lennox diemaster II
blades I keep hearing about? Either phone/internet order or San
Diego or LA would be helpful.

Thanks,
Vay