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Thanks for the wonderful description John and for taking the time/effort to explain this to us all, really appreciated for me. Hope you have a wonderful Christmas. Steve

Don't forget to add a nice window to your gearbox :-)? Mine's made of 1/2 inch Lexan with a neoprene gasket. Use your favorite sealant. -Gary

Hi Jon While what you've said is true with regard to brass synchromesh pads in a manual gearbox, it's not true for the worm drive in a 4x6 bandsaw. I've made a bit of a study of this 'yellow metal

The saw have today I own for over 20 years. I other that own front 1970's to 2004. None had a brass gear problem. Dave

Always look for a lubricant that specifically says "Yellow Metal Safe

You have put a angle to solder joint. Like gluing leather belts. Then take a high strength silver solder. Butt type soldering does not work. Dave

Cleanliness next to Godliness. Especially if you're using silver solder! You want the cleanest joint you can get. Very high proof alcohol, or acetone to degrease the ends, then scrub with a clean SS

I've never had good results with silver solder, I can never get it to wet the joint thoroughly. I'd be interested in learning what flux people are using to get good results. --

I have use high strength silver solder it work every time better than blade welder I had. Dave

Most I have seen the internet used a transformer from microwave. They remove the high voltage windings then replace with just over one turn of very heavy copper sold wire . Will gives very high

Interesting. I have a hydraulic down-feed control, so when I am forced to cut pieces like that, I just back off the feed rate, and let'r rip.......slow. If I get a tuning fork ring, which our dog

Regarding the gear oil and filling the gearbox: Any oil marked ? _W-90? and listed as "safe for bronze", "protects copper and copper alloys", or similar will work If you are running your saw

I suspect most of you know this trick, but for the newbies: https://rick.sparber.org/SawingThinTallStock.pdf Rick

John, Thanks so much for the detailed information about how you tested and fixed your saw. Jack

My Grizzly saw was new in March of 2006. I did have to replace the motor a couple years ago, but I used to really work the saw long & hard, and the motor would get awfully hot. Only other things I've

Hi Jack I just read back through this thread and see that the procedure I wrote up was never attached to a message, just posted in the files section, so I'll attach a copy to this message for those

Ken: Thanks for the tips... I am glad to hear that you have demonstrated that this Grizzly has the potential for a very long life ! -Tom

In reference to how much oil should be in the gear box.? DO NOT fill it all the way to the top.? It just needs enough oil to coat the worm shaft which transfers oil to the worm gear. Its okay for

I have the exact same problem with my JET 7 x 12" saw.? I'm going to try Mark's idea of turning down one end of the hinge pin. Thanks much, Jack Fort Loramie, Ohio

I looked at the motor too, and no sign of manufacturing date there either, very odd.