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Re: How to remove slop from arm pivot
Thanks JV,? I used a clamp to help push the pivot in all the way before tightening the setscrew and that seemed to resolve the issue.? Several test cuts and all seems good now.??
I still have to fine tune the blade guide bearing but it's cutting acceptable for now.? How much pressure on the blade is recommended? I've seen recommendations anywhere from light as in you should be able to rotate the?bearings by hand to as tight as possible.? ?? Glen |
Re: How to remove slop from arm pivot
It should not be worn, but then things often are not what they should be.?? Are you talking about sideways movement of the sawframe and pivot shaft through the ears in the base, not slop in the base's pivot bearing itself?Normal assembly procedure is to use the supplied cylindrical spacer on the pivot shaft between the base ear and the sawframe on the RHS, then push the pivot arm onto pivot shaft, up hard against the base ear on LHS, and then tighten the set screw in the pivot arm eliminating any sideways movement.? This also sets the angle of the sawframe to make the blade back square to the vice table. If you removed the pivot arm itself (which people often do to put the hydraulic downfeed cylinder horizontally on the LHS of the machine), then you may not have pushed it on the shaft far enough when bolting back together and that would allow axial movement of the pivot shaft (and also create a little off-angle in the blade back, making the saw cut away from the vice, if it was cutting square before you disassembled).? If there is no axial movement of the pivot shaft, but the sawframe can still be moved sideways, then almost certain you have a worn bearing in one or both of the pivot ears on the base. Press your finger onto the pivot shaft and base ear together and move the head to create the movement you're calling slop, and it should be apparent where its coming from. RHS is normally worse than LHS.? Let us know the outcome? The HF manual shows an oil seal on the outside next to the drive wheel.? I'd replace that first if its leaking oil without changing the bearings as they can be troublesome to replace.The bearing next to the drive wheel is nearly always the one to fail as it doesn't get as much oil as the inner one. Unless you've been having problems with the blade tracking off the drive wheel, its probably ok. No real experience in swapping?parts?between brands, but seals and bearings are all metric and pretty std with the exception of the guide-roller bearings which are all over the place between brands. You can get seals and bearings from any bearing supply place.? They're normally 6202 (35mmOD x 15mmID x 11mmW) with a 35x15x7mmW lip seal -??jv |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
I have some pieces of 2x4 that I put a V-groove in on the table saw.? When cutting conduit or thin-walled tubing, just sandwich the workpiece between the 2x4's with the wood extending about 1/8" past the cut on both sides, and let it cut.? The wood keeps many teeth in the cut, and it's free.
Regards, Ed |
Re: How to remove slop from arm pivot
Thank you for replying.? My issue should not be due to worn out pivot pin or ears.? It was cutting well before I messed with the pivot to install a hydraulic down feed control. It seems to be an adjustment.? I think I'm going to tear it all down and see how the pivot looks then reassemble. I noticed some oil on and around the drive wheel so I will replace the seals and bearings at the same time. I almost want to buy another saw as backup, having this saw down makes me realize just how much I use it.? ?
I plan to buy parts (bearings, seals etc.) from Grizzly?since I've heard? HF shipping takes a long time.? Do you think these parts should fit? My saw was purchased new at HF in 2011.?? Thanks again. Glen |
Re: How to remove slop from arm pivot
Yes there ways, though not easy.? BUT this is the MOST important factor in your saw cutting square (esp vertically down).? So much so, that you have to fix it or get rid of the saw (unless you don't care whether it cuts square, but then you'd ever want to fix it). To cut square the pivot shaft MUST be parallel to the workpiece in both front elevation (i.e. horizontal to the base of the vice - not easy to measure, therefore not easy to set correctly) AND in plan view (i.e. looking down from above - effectively parallel to the back of the vice, which is always easy to do).? The back of the sawblade also has to square to the pivot in front elevation and plan view.? Although they're related, they have different adjustments available and don't really concern you when re-bushing the pivot.? Because the pivot shaft is set-screwed to the sawframe side of the hinge, the wear is only in the ears of the base. With luck you may need to only do the bush next to the blade, which is normally the one that wears first.? However ANY slop on the bearings translates to un-square cutting. Turning the pivot shaft end for end may get any shaft wear into places it doesn't matter. If you want your saw to cut square within 'thou' the pivot shaft alignment must be parallel within the same amount.? The 2 are flip sizes of the same coin. The ways I know are: 1. Milling off the ears and bolting on replacement pillow block style bearings -? has been done and there are photos in the Photo section of the site. The pillow blocks need only be square steel bar reamed to 15mm diameter of the pivot shaft. You can ensure parallelism of the bearing mount to the saw base when setting up in the mill.?? 2. If you don't have machine tools, then drilling and/or filing out the base ears until they're sloppy enough to accept a bronze or brass bush will work.. Because the worn hole is oval, drilling it out dead size for the bush may not get it It is aligned with vice base and back.? Try drilling dead size and measure the alignment before easing it open any further. You can ensure alignment in a sloppy hole by using 3 set-screws in each ear (one up from underneath and the other 2 in from the back and front).? Once aligned the gap between the bush? and the cast iron base ear is injected with epoxy resin from a hypodermic syringe through an additional hole from underneath so it flushes the air out. An o'ring on the shaft either side of the ear will stop the epoxy squishing out the sides. Suitable diameter bushes are available from engineering supply places like McMasterCarr.com, though you'll have to cut them to length.? You might get lucky and getting a bush that's twice as long as you need and can just cut it in half.?? The only relatively simple method of measuring whether the pivot shaft is parallel to the vice base casting is to cut some 4'x1" soft pine or fir joinery timber (dressed all sides, it winds up under size but that doesn't matter):
Hope it helps - jv |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
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Show quoted text
On Mar 9, 2019, at 11:56 AM, hman_mit@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: hydraulic downfeed
A friend of mine and occasional poster on this forum, Rick Sparber, has come up with an incredibly slick idea for an even simpler slow downfeed. ?Quick and easy to build, just one part to make on a lathe, and just one ~$15 part to buy. ?He's given me permission to post the link:
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Re: How to remove slop from arm pivot
开云体育On 3/9/2019 10:22 AM,
moto52000@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
?? Depends on where exactly where the slop is . Could be as simple as replacing the pivot pin if it's worn , might need to be reamed out and either bushed or have a larger pin installed . A lot depends on what tooling you have available and your level of expertise . ? -- ? Snag |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
开云体育How about good old fashioned ethics? The magazine makes its money selling magazines. Hard to do that, if people splatter their articles all over the net. So, if it’s not in the public domain, don’t put it there. Bill From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 9:17 AM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: hydraulic downfeed ? ? Copyright does not mention charging.? It doesn't matter if you give out copies for free or even pay the person to take it, you are STILL violating copyright law.? It's also up to
the copyright holder where, for how much and even if the work is sold.? That's why you still can't give out copies of an out of print book until the copyright expires. On 2/26/19 5:02 AM, Mt14l@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886 @DurandInterstel ?
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Re: hydraulic downfeed
开云体育Copyright does not mention charging.? It doesn't matter if you give out copies for free or even pay the person to take it, you are STILL violating copyright law.? It's also up to the copyright holder where, for how much and even if the work is sold.? That's why you still can't give out copies of an out of print book until the copyright expires.This also goes for the 12 billion people who grab stuff off the Internet like photos every day. On 2/26/19 5:02 AM, Mt14l@...
[4x6bandsaw] wrote:
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886 @DurandInterstel |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
Copyright enforcement is still valid, even when there is no payment.
On Tue, 26 Feb 2019 13:02:14 +0000 (UTC), "Mt14l@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk out: John-- Stephen . . . . File not found. Should I fake it? Y/N --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
John
Shouldn't be a problem if you don't charge for the copies. Wouldn't be a problem at all in my case as I've already ordered the magazines. Just have to wait the 2 - 4 weeks while they come in snail mail.
Dave
-----Original Message----- From: hman_mit@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Sun, Feb 24, 2019 9:41 pm Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: hydraulic downfeed
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Several forum members have asked me for copies of the article. ?I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do this, as the magazines (and articles included therein) are copyrighted.
I have sent an email to the editor, asking for clarification. ?If I get the OK, I'll be more than glad to send out scans of the article pages. ?I'll let all of you know as soon as I've heard something.
- John Herrmann
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Re: hydraulic downfeed
Several forum members have asked me for copies of the article. ?I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do this, as the magazines (and articles included therein) are copyrighted.
I have sent an email to the editor, asking for clarification. ?If I get the OK, I'll be more than glad to send out scans of the article pages. ?I'll let all of you know as soon as I've heard something. - John Herrmann |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
For those of you who are interested in my downfeed article, you can get back issues of Home Shop Machinist from the publisher, Village Press. ?Here are links to the two issues:
https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/4211 https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/4226 - John Herrmann |
Re: hydraulic downfeed
I've published an article about this. ?It's in the November/December 2018 and January/February 2019 issues of Home Shop Machinist. ?Total parts cost is about $25-$50. ?Machined parts are very simple, nothing precision. ?Lathe needed, mill useful but not required - can do what's needed on the drill press.
- John Herrmann |
Re: Replacement spring for Harbor Freight saw
Two answers for you:
(1) I've been converting these bandsaws (from various manufacturers/dealers) to a very inexpensive hydraulic downfeed for a couple years now. ?All the springs seem to be nearly the same. ?I have a couple of them that I kept. ?If you want one, email me: hman underscore mit at cox dot net. ?You can have one for the cost of postage (small flat rate box is about $7.50) (2) Check out the November/December 2018 and January/February 2019 issues of The Home Shop Machinist for my article on how to build your own hydraulic downfeed for about $25-50. - John Herrmann |
Re: Replacement spring for Harbor Freight saw
开云体育There are also some other part numbers, for the same spring, for older Jet saws. The Jet saws used to be made by Rong Fu, but that’s been a while ago. You may get some other part numbers on ereplacementparts.com. They show a couple different ones on their site, but are 10-15 days out. ? Have you considered forgetting the spring, and installing a hydraulic downfeed? It’s a far superior set up. Lots of info on home brew cylinder installations, on this site, youtube, and other places. I cheated, and bought a Grizzly 5 x 6 saw that came with one. One of the reasons I bought a Grizzly! ? I would have thought someone here would have a spring laying around, after they converted their saw to hydraulic. Of maybe you can get someone to measure the spring rate on theirs, and pick one up from Newcomb or Century, or maybe Lee. ? Bill ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:57 AM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Replacement spring for Harbor Freight saw ? ? Spring is out of stock at Grizzly for both Grizzly and Shop Fox. On to Jet! ? Well, I figured Grizz was the best chance, but there are others. There is also Jet, part number HVBS462-047 for their spring. Lot of Jet dealers out there. I’d contact Jet directly. And Northern Tool, Item 122 on their 49464 band saw. They don’t have part numbers, similar to Horror Freight. ? Busy Bee Tools, (Canada) Rikon model 15400 band saw, the spring is P15-400-127 Even Home Depot sells 4 x 6’s, but they are not much on service parts. ? Bill ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
? ? Grizzly is out of stock for the 147 spring. I will try for the Shop Fox. Thanks for the info! ? Have you tried Grizzly? ? Part number for their spring is P0622147 for their G0622 saw. Or look at the Shop Fox, which Grizzly carries, spring part number X1715047, which is described as 22 x 4.5 x 215 extension spring….which gives away everything but the spring rate to look around for one. ? Bill ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
? ? I need a replacement spring for my HF 4x6 saw and HF doesn't have any in stock. Can anyone tell me what aftermarket spring could be used? ? McMaster Carr? ? Thanks Dave Bluffton SC
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Re: Replacement spring for Harbor Freight saw
Spring is out of stock at Grizzly for both Grizzly and Shop Fox. On to Jet! Thanks for all the info. Dave? -----Original Message-----
From: Bill Armstrong bill_1955@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> To: 4x6bandsaw@... <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2019 8:23 am Subject: RE: [4x6bandsaw] Replacement spring for Harbor Freight saw
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Well, I figured Grizz was the best chance, but there are others. There is also Jet, part number HVBS462-047 for their spring. Lot of Jet dealers out there. I’d contact Jet directly. And Northern Tool, Item 122 on their 49464 band saw. They don’t have part numbers, similar to Horror Freight. ? Busy Bee Tools, (Canada) Rikon model 15400 band saw, the spring is P15-400-127 Even Home Depot sells 4 x 6’s, but they are not much on service parts. ? Bill ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
? ? Grizzly is out of stock for the 147 spring. I will try for the Shop Fox. Thanks for the info! ? Have you tried Grizzly? ? Part number for their spring is P0622147 for their G0622 saw. Or look at the Shop Fox, which Grizzly carries, spring part number X1715047, which is described as 22 x 4.5 x 215 extension spring….which gives away everything but the spring rate to look around for one. ? Bill ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
? ? I need a replacement spring for my HF 4x6 saw and HF doesn't have any in stock. Can anyone tell me what aftermarket spring could be used? ? McMaster Carr? ? Thanks Dave Bluffton SC
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