When it was time to replace my lennox blade, I thought I would give this company a try.? I've seen them advertise in some of the shows I watch and like their story.? (Made in USA.)? Anyway, I ordered what I thought would be the closest blade possible to what I normally use and the price was right.? I typically use a 10-14tpi bi-metal.? It arrived in 2 days I believe.?
Anyway, my first 2 cuts on this were AWFUL.? Maybe 10 times longer than I would expect.? I even stopped cutting to see if something was keeping the saw from lowering.? I have yet to cut anything else but has anyone else used blades from them with success?
I am NOT bagging on the company.? I WANT it to be a good blade and use them forever!? Here is what I ordered:??
Q? 601 Series - Qsaw? M42
Bimetal
??0.5 x 10-14 (0.025) ??@ 5' 4 1/2 "
Kris
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Well JV, you got a heck of a chuckle out of me. Thanks! I like that thermometer. This approach implies paint after the bearing installation. That's opposite of my current approach. I have to ask, why heat/shrink over greased pig? :) Thanks Darren
?
Been thinking Darren and with the mass of aluminium in your gearbox casting you'd be better off with a propane torch than a heat gun. It should be sizzling hot when you spit on it. That plus freezing the earrings and they'll almost slide in - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Been thinking Darren and with the mass of aluminium in your gearbox casting you'd be better off with a propane torch than a heat gun. It should be sizzling hot when you spit on it. That plus freezing the earrings and they'll almost slide in - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Heat gun plus bearings in the freezer for an hour or 2 - jv
|
Re: Hydraulic piston replacement options?
Be much easier to rebuild your cylinder than get a replacement which would have to be identical in length, both extended and compressed, for it to fit your standard mounts.?? I'm trying to figure what would cause it to move in jerks, would have to be hanging up in the bore then dropping so it might not be the seals, rather wear between piston and bore. If the bore is not damaged, then maybe the seals are too tight.? Could be swelled up in which case new std size might free it up.? Seal retailers have many different seals? both imperial and metric.? You can use a smaller diameter with the same cross-section stretched to fit which will fit a bit looser, or a metric instead of imperial etc..?? Let us know what you find on disassembly - jv
|
Re: Hydraulic piston replacement options?
Generally speaking, if you can get the cylinder apart, you should be able to rebuild it if they used standard seals and didn¡¯t make them themselves. ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2018 10:56
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic piston replacement options??
Hi! I have a Homier 4x6 bandsaw, model MBS46/03111. My hydraulic piston leaks (and might have air inside?) allowing the blade to drop down in little jerks rather than a smooth continuous slow motion. Are these pistons serviceable or should I be looking for a replacement? Any suggestions one where to get a replacement? I think I had the same problem when I first bought the saw and got a replacement from Homier which is the one I am struggling with again now. Actually it has worked poorly for years and I'm just getting around to doing something about it after several recent frustrating uses.? I'm hoping there is a 3rd party replacement I can get. Any suggestions?? ?
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Posted by: darren.mccarley@... darren.mccarley@...
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2018 6:02 pm ((PST))
Well, the thrust bearings came in and they are identical, as near as I can tell. I'm taking all of next week off and plan to spend a lot of that time in the garage. If the weather cooperates, I'll be painting and start the reassembling process.
Quick question. Bearing installation. Lubricate the aluminum case for installation or leave it dry? I've only installed bearings/races in engines and we used plenty of oil. I assume the same applies? Would hate to have a bearing cut into the aluminum and "cut" a burr. (Will be using the "socket as a bearing installer" method.) Will be using mobil shc 634 as gear box fluid and intended to use it as an install lube as well. If the housing is aluminum, you can warm it with a heat gun. The thermal expansion will reduce the pressure required. Lubricate the bore and the bearing with assembly grease (Lubriplate 105) or oil. Ken :-)
|
Re: Hydraulic piston replacement options?
You have any pictures?
No idea what Hormier used for their cylinder, but I assume it¡¯s the same as other China built and rebranded saws.
If the cylinder is like my grizzly saw, also made in China, you disassemble the cylinder by removing the snap-ring on the packing gland on the rod end.
Grizz doesn¡¯t show a breakdown of the cylinder, and I haven¡¯t had mine apart, but seals & o-rings are easy enough to measure.
A call to Grizzly may be worthwhile, assuming it appears to be like your cylinder. They may sell kits or seals for them, but not list them, or they may be able to tell you what
they are.
?
Take a look here, and see if this looks like your Homier, or at least if the cylinder does:
Pic attached is of my Grizzly saw.
?
Bill
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2018 8:56 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic piston replacement options?
?
?
Hi! I have a Homier 4x6 bandsaw, model MBS46/03111. My hydraulic piston leaks (and might have air inside?) allowing the blade to drop down in little jerks rather than a smooth continuous slow motion. Are these pistons serviceable or should
I be looking for a replacement? Any suggestions one where to get a replacement?
I think I had the same problem when I first bought the saw and got a replacement from Homier which is the one I am struggling with again now. Actually it has worked poorly for years and I'm just getting around to doing something about it
after several recent frustrating uses.? I'm hoping there is a 3rd party replacement I can get. Any suggestions??
?
|
Re: Hydraulic piston replacement options?
??? ??? I have seen where some folks have used a screen door
piston with some mods .
??? ??? animal
On 12/16/2018 8:55 AM,
wds3r@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hi! I have a Homier 4x6 bandsaw, model MBS46/03111. My
hydraulic piston leaks (and might have air inside?)
allowing the blade to drop down in little jerks rather
than a smooth continuous slow motion. Are these pistons
serviceable or should I be looking for a replacement? Any
suggestions one where to get a replacement?
I think I had the same problem when I first bought the
saw and got a replacement from Homier which is the one I
am struggling with again now. Actually it has worked
poorly for years and I'm just getting around to doing
something about it after several recent frustrating uses.?
I'm hoping there is a 3rd party replacement I can get. Any
suggestions??
|
Hydraulic piston replacement options?
Hi! I have a Homier 4x6 bandsaw, model MBS46/03111. My hydraulic piston leaks (and might have air inside?) allowing the
blade to drop down in little jerks rather than a smooth continuous slow
motion. Are these pistons serviceable or should I be looking for a
replacement? Any suggestions one where to get a replacement?
I think I
had the same problem when I first bought the saw and got a replacement from Homier which is the one I am struggling with again now. Actually it has worked poorly for years and I'm just getting around to doing something about it after several recent frustrating uses.? I'm hoping there is a 3rd party
replacement I can get. Any suggestions??
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Awesome. Thanks Bill! Darren
?
Hey Darren,
?
I would use Lubriplate 105 to assemble. Any auto parts store has it. It¡¯s what is used to assemble engines. Gives you good lubrication before the oil gets into everything it needs
to, and will hang in there if you get side tracked and leave things set for a day or month.
The Lubriplate will be absorbed with the oil after you use the saw a bit, with no detrimental effects. It¡¯s not a heavy grease, like #2 or even #1.
I use it for transmissions, and other gearboxes as well, besides just engines, and have for years.
?
Bill
?
?
?
?
?
Well, the thrust bearings came in and they are identical, as near as I can tell. I'm taking all of next week off and plan to spend a lot of that time in the garage. If the weather cooperates, I'll be painting and start the reassembling process.
Quick question. Bearing installation. Lubricate the aluminum case for installation or leave it dry? I've only installed bearings/races in engines and we used plenty of oil. I assume the same applies? Would hate to have a bearing cut into the aluminum and "cut"
a burr. (Will be using the "socket as a bearing installer" method.) Will be using mobil shc 634 as gear box fluid and intended to use it as an install lube as well.
Thanks!
Darren
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Hey Darren,
?
I would use Lubriplate 105 to assemble. Any auto parts store has it. It¡¯s what is used to assemble engines. Gives you good lubrication before the oil gets into everything it needs
to, and will hang in there if you get side tracked and leave things set for a day or month.
The Lubriplate will be absorbed with the oil after you use the saw a bit, with no detrimental effects. It¡¯s not a heavy grease, like #2 or even #1.
I use it for transmissions, and other gearboxes as well, besides just engines, and have for years.
?
Bill
?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2018 6:03 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: RE: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
Well, the thrust bearings came in and they are identical, as near as I can tell. I'm taking all of next week off and plan to spend a lot of that time in the garage. If the weather cooperates, I'll be painting and start the reassembling process.
Quick question. Bearing installation. Lubricate the aluminum case for installation or leave it dry? I've only installed bearings/races in engines and we used plenty of oil. I assume the same applies? Would hate to have a bearing cut into the aluminum and "cut"
a burr. (Will be using the "socket as a bearing installer" method.) Will be using mobil shc 634 as gear box fluid and intended to use it as an install lube as well.
Thanks!
Darren
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Well, the thrust bearings came in and they are identical, as near as I can tell. I'm taking all of next week off and plan to spend a lot of that time in the garage. If the weather cooperates, I'll be painting and start the reassembling process.
Quick question. Bearing installation. Lubricate the aluminum case for installation or leave it dry? I've only installed bearings/races in engines and we used plenty of oil. I assume the same applies? Would hate to have a bearing cut into the aluminum and "cut" a burr. (Will be using the "socket as a bearing installer" method.) Will be using mobil shc 634 as gear box fluid and intended to use it as an install lube as well.
Thanks!
Darren
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
I know that some of the old DoAll band saws used washers in the gear boxes. Washers, thrust washers, spacers, name ¡®em what you like¡.they had ¡®em. I don¡¯t remember if they were
bronze or steel¡.been a while.
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 12:39 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
I hope your travels went smoothly and we're productive/enjoyable. There are VERY few images of this type of saw on the internet. Fewer of the gear box. However, I did find one that showed at least 1 washer used on the worm hear shaft. I
BELEIEVE these are not intended as thrust washers, per se. Instead, I believe they are more like spacers. The replacements are scheduled to arrive today. :) Once I start reassembling the saw I post pictures and show what I mean.?
?
?
Sorry I'm late on this conversation but I've been travelling and only just got my phone to where it can reply to a thread.
I'm at a loss to see why your gearbox would have thrust bearings in those positions Darren. when there's no way for any thrust to be resolved there.
I understand that's what you found when disassembling it but why would they be there?
More likely they are oil slingers to stop oil leaking out, though how they might work is beyond me too.
A 4x6 has lip-seals in those positions, and they do stop oil leaking from the gearbox. The 2RS seals on bearings are not designed to seal against oil, just stop ingress of swarf or leakage of internal bearing grease.
I suspect your Bainbridge gearbox will also leak unless you have lip-seals rather than these washers. They will be available in the same size as the bearing ID x OD x~0.25" thick - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
JV, I hope your travels went smoothly and we're productive/enjoyable. There are VERY few images of this type of saw on the internet. Fewer of the gear box. However, I did find one that showed at least 1 washer used on the worm hear shaft. I BELEIEVE these are not intended as thrust washers, per se. Instead, I believe they are more like spacers. The replacements are scheduled to arrive today. :) Once I start reassembling the saw I post pictures and show what I mean.? Thanks Darren
?
Sorry I'm late on this conversation but I've been travelling and only just got my phone to where it can reply to a thread.
I'm at a loss to see why your gearbox would have thrust bearings in those positions Darren. when there's no way for any thrust to be resolved there.
I understand that's what you found when disassembling it but why would they be there?
More likely they are oil slingers to stop oil leaking out, though how they might work is beyond me too.
A 4x6 has lip-seals in those positions, and they do stop oil leaking from the gearbox. The 2RS seals on bearings are not designed to seal against oil, just stop ingress of swarf or leakage of internal bearing grease.
I suspect your Bainbridge gearbox will also leak unless you have lip-seals rather than these washers. They will be available in the same size as the bearing ID x OD x~0.25" thick - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Sorry I'm late on this conversation but I've been travelling and only just got my phone to where it can reply to a thread.
I'm at a loss to see why your gearbox would have thrust bearings in those positions Darren. when there's no way for any thrust to be resolved there.
I understand that's what you found when disassembling it but why would they be there?
More likely they are oil slingers to stop oil leaking out, though how they might work is beyond me too.
A 4x6 has lip-seals in those positions, and they do stop oil leaking from the gearbox. The 2RS seals on bearings are not designed to seal against oil, just stop ingress of swarf or leakage of internal bearing grease.
I suspect your Bainbridge gearbox will also leak unless you have lip-seals rather than these washers. They will be available in the same size as the bearing ID x OD x~0.25" thick - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
You¡¯re welcome Darren!
Happy to help!
Always nice when ¡®off the shelf¡¯ parts will work. Not uncommon with old US iron.
30 thou over nominal on the ID sounds perfect!
(When off the shelf doesn¡¯t apply, owning? lathe & a mill are extremely handy) ;)
Look forward to hearing your progress! Good ol¡¯ America iron!
?
HO HO HO!
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2018 12:24 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
Well, I THINK I found what I needed on McMaster Carr. We'll see once they show up.
Thanks Bill!!
|
|
Oil-Embedded Thrust Bearing, 5/8" Inside Diameter, 1-1/2" OD, 1/8" Thickness
|
?
?
Shoot. No such thing as TMI as far as I'm concerned! :) I enjoy hearing of the experiences of others. Thanks!!!
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
Hi Daren,
For a 5/8¡± shaft, about .030¡± over on the ID of the thrust-washer would be a normal design criteria. In the grand scheme of things, .060¡± oversize wouldn¡¯t matter on any low RPM designs like a band saw. You may be seeing some wear
on the old one. Myself, I¡¯d shoot for the .030¡±, and I¡¯d think ¡®store bought¡¯ thrust bearings for a 5/8¡± shaft would mostly be just that. Again¡.the design would be very forgiving in low RPM designs.
?
660, or 932 (same thing) is the most common bearing grade bronze. 841, or Oilite, is sintered bronze, making it porous so as to hold oil.
Both are used in a lot of power tools¡.among many other things. For a band saw, I¡¯d go with 660 (932), unless there was some life problem. 660 has a bit better yield strength than 841.
?
Sometimes you have to get into the heavy duty, due to clearance restrictions, or, for whatever reason(s), you have early failures.
I used to design & make a lot of bearings with 954 (aluminum bronze) which is harder and tougher than 660.
Also designed & made bearings from 863 (manganese bronze) which is stronger yet, but less pleasant to work with. ?
Used both the above often, to improve bearing life, and still make it a direct replacement to the OEM 660 part. ?(attached example)
?
There¡..TMI¡.sorry about that¡..
?
Merry Christmas!
Bill
?
?
?
Bill,
Thanks for the information and confirmation. I must have been having a bad day. You're spot on about the ID. Once I stepped away from the washer and measured the shaft, the OD of the shaft is .625", thus the ID of the washer needs to be at least that..... DUH!
Using a different set of calipers, I can confirm, the "good" washer's ID is .688. Which causes me to ask, is the difference between shaft OD and thrust washer ID wear on the thrust, or intentional clearance? (I am told I "pick nits", feel free to advise me
if I am doing so here.)
Thanks for the link and transfer of knowledge on the 660 vs 841. I've never messed with thrust washers before so this is all a great education. :)
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <bill_1955@...> wrote :
Looking at the pic Darren, they look a bit larger on the ID than .4¡± (10mm)
Check that dim, and take a look at McMaster Car & see if anything they have will work.
?
Also looking at the pic, they appear to be 841 by their color.
841 is synonymous with Oilite, or oil impregnated bronze.
That¡¯s just a guess¡.pics can be deceiving depending on the light.
Since they are in an oiled gearbox, 841 seems a bit redundant, and I would think 660 would work fine.
?
Bill
?
?
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Need a bit of help finding some thrust washers. At least I think they are thrust washers. I'm looking for 2 non-ferrous washers that measure 38mm od, 10mm id, and 3mm thick. (1.5"od, .4" id, .1" thick). These go in the gear box. One between the drive sprocket
and case and the other between the final bearing and worm gear. (This one was completely trashed, as was the roller bearing.) Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm needing. These don't look to be brass. Bronze maybe??
?
Well, the new cam followers and blade back bearing came in. The cam followers were maybe .01 bigger in diameter but that was an easy fix w/ some fine filing. Thanks for the suggestions!! Next up is replacing all 7 roller bearings, a couple of seals, a few thrust
bearings, finish cleaning up the main body, prime, paint, and reassemble. This thing is FINALLY coming?together. :) I'll post pics and a bit of a write up once completed. While I doubt anyone else needs the part numbers, I'll post the part numbers I've used.
Heck, I might need them later. :)
You guys continue to rock! Thanks for the help, inspiration, and support!!
?
?
Yes, it came through.? I think I will try the version made from aluminum and blade pieces, it seems that would work well.
?
?
?
?
Just reloaded the pdf file, let me know if it works this time - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Well, I THINK I found what I needed on McMaster Carr. We'll see once they show up. Thanks Bill!! |
Oil-Embedded Thrust Bearing, 5/8" Inside Diameter, 1-1/2" OD, 1/8" Thickness
|
?
Shoot. No such thing as TMI as far as I'm concerned! :) I enjoy hearing of the experiences of others. Thanks!!! Merry Christmas!!! :) Darren
?
[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
Hi Daren,
For a 5/8¡± shaft, about .030¡± over on the ID of the thrust-washer would be a normal design criteria. In the grand scheme of things, .060¡± oversize wouldn¡¯t matter on any low RPM
designs like a band saw. You may be seeing some wear on the old one. Myself, I¡¯d shoot for the .030¡±, and I¡¯d think ¡®store bought¡¯ thrust bearings for a 5/8¡± shaft would mostly be just that. Again¡.the design would be very forgiving in low RPM designs.
?
660, or 932 (same thing) is the most common bearing grade bronze. 841, or Oilite, is sintered bronze, making it porous so as to hold oil.
Both are used in a lot of power tools¡.among many other things. For a band saw, I¡¯d go with 660 (932), unless there was some life problem. 660 has a bit better yield strength
than 841.
?
Sometimes you have to get into the heavy duty, due to clearance restrictions, or, for whatever reason(s), you have early failures.
I used to design & make a lot of bearings with 954 (aluminum bronze) which is harder and tougher than 660.
Also designed & made bearings from 863 (manganese bronze) which is stronger yet, but less pleasant to work with. ?
Used both the above often, to improve bearing life, and still make it a direct replacement to the OEM 660 part. ?(attached example)
?
There¡.TMI¡.sorry about that¡..
?
Merry Christmas!
Bill
?
?
?
Bill,
Thanks for the information and confirmation. I must have been having a bad day. You're spot on about the ID. Once I stepped away from the washer and measured the shaft, the OD of the shaft is .625", thus the ID of the washer needs to be
at least that..... DUH! Using a different set of calipers, I can confirm, the "good" washer's ID is .688. Which causes me to ask, is the difference between shaft OD and thrust washer ID wear on the thrust, or intentional clearance? (I am told I "pick nits",
feel free to advise me if I am doing so here.)
Thanks for the link and transfer of knowledge on the 660 vs 841. I've never messed with thrust washers before so this is all a great education. :)
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
---In 4x6bandsaw@..., wrote :
Looking at the pic Darren, they look a bit larger on the ID than .4¡± (10mm)
Check that dim, and take a look at McMaster Car & see if anything they have will work.
?
Also looking at the pic, they appear to be 841 by their color.
841 is synonymous with Oilite, or oil impregnated bronze.
That¡¯s just a guess¡.pics can be deceiving depending on the light.
Since they are in an oiled gearbox, 841 seems a bit redundant, and I would think 660 would work fine.
?
Bill
?
?
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Need a bit of help finding some thrust washers. At least I think they are thrust washers. I'm looking for 2 non-ferrous washers that measure 38mm od, 10mm id, and 3mm thick. (1.5"od, .4" id, .1" thick). These go in the
gear box. One between the drive sprocket and case and the other between the final bearing and worm gear. (This one was completely trashed, as was the roller bearing.) Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm needing. These don't look to be brass. Bronze maybe??
?
Well, the new cam followers and blade back bearing came in. The cam followers were maybe .01 bigger in diameter but that was an easy fix w/ some fine filing. Thanks for the suggestions!! Next up is replacing all 7 roller
bearings, a couple of seals, a few thrust bearings, finish cleaning up the main body, prime, paint, and reassemble. This thing is FINALLY coming?together. :) I'll post pics and a bit of a write up once completed. While I doubt anyone else needs the part numbers,
I'll post the part numbers I've used. Heck, I might need them later. :)
You guys continue to rock! Thanks for the help, inspiration, and support!!
?
?
Yes, it came through.? I think I will try the version made from aluminum and blade pieces, it seems that would work well.
?
?
?
?
Just reloaded the pdf file, let me know if it works this time - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides [1 Attachment]
Shoot. No such thing as TMI as far as I'm concerned! :) I enjoy hearing of the experiences of others. Thanks!!! Merry Christmas!!! :) Darren
?
[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
Hi Daren,
For a 5/8¡± shaft, about .030¡± over on the ID of the thrust-washer would be a normal design criteria. In the grand scheme of things, .060¡± oversize wouldn¡¯t matter on any low RPM
designs like a band saw. You may be seeing some wear on the old one. Myself, I¡¯d shoot for the .030¡±, and I¡¯d think ¡®store bought¡¯ thrust bearings for a 5/8¡± shaft would mostly be just that. Again¡.the design would be very forgiving in low RPM designs.
?
660, or 932 (same thing) is the most common bearing grade bronze. 841, or Oilite, is sintered bronze, making it porous so as to hold oil.
Both are used in a lot of power tools¡.among many other things. For a band saw, I¡¯d go with 660 (932), unless there was some life problem. 660 has a bit better yield strength
than 841.
?
Sometimes you have to get into the heavy duty, due to clearance restrictions, or, for whatever reason(s), you have early failures.
I used to design & make a lot of bearings with 954 (aluminum bronze) which is harder and tougher than 660.
Also designed & made bearings from 863 (manganese bronze) which is stronger yet, but less pleasant to work with. ?
Used both the above often, to improve bearing life, and still make it a direct replacement to the OEM 660 part. ?(attached example)
?
There¡.TMI¡.sorry about that¡..
?
Merry Christmas!
Bill
?
?
?
Bill,
Thanks for the information and confirmation. I must have been having a bad day. You're spot on about the ID. Once I stepped away from the washer and measured the shaft, the OD of the shaft is .625", thus the ID of the washer needs to be
at least that..... DUH! Using a different set of calipers, I can confirm, the "good" washer's ID is .688. Which causes me to ask, is the difference between shaft OD and thrust washer ID wear on the thrust, or intentional clearance? (I am told I "pick nits",
feel free to advise me if I am doing so here.)
Thanks for the link and transfer of knowledge on the 660 vs 841. I've never messed with thrust washers before so this is all a great education. :)
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
---In 4x6bandsaw@..., wrote :
Looking at the pic Darren, they look a bit larger on the ID than .4¡± (10mm)
Check that dim, and take a look at McMaster Car & see if anything they have will work.
?
Also looking at the pic, they appear to be 841 by their color.
841 is synonymous with Oilite, or oil impregnated bronze.
That¡¯s just a guess¡.pics can be deceiving depending on the light.
Since they are in an oiled gearbox, 841 seems a bit redundant, and I would think 660 would work fine.
?
Bill
?
?
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Need a bit of help finding some thrust washers. At least I think they are thrust washers. I'm looking for 2 non-ferrous washers that measure 38mm od, 10mm id, and 3mm thick. (1.5"od, .4" id, .1" thick). These go in the
gear box. One between the drive sprocket and case and the other between the final bearing and worm gear. (This one was completely trashed, as was the roller bearing.) Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm needing. These don't look to be brass. Bronze maybe??
?
Well, the new cam followers and blade back bearing came in. The cam followers were maybe .01 bigger in diameter but that was an easy fix w/ some fine filing. Thanks for the suggestions!! Next up is replacing all 7 roller
bearings, a couple of seals, a few thrust bearings, finish cleaning up the main body, prime, paint, and reassemble. This thing is FINALLY coming?together. :) I'll post pics and a bit of a write up once completed. While I doubt anyone else needs the part numbers,
I'll post the part numbers I've used. Heck, I might need them later. :)
You guys continue to rock! Thanks for the help, inspiration, and support!!
?
?
Yes, it came through.? I think I will try the version made from aluminum and blade pieces, it seems that would work well.
?
?
?
?
Just reloaded the pdf file, let me know if it works this time - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Hi Daren,
For a 5/8¡± shaft, about .030¡± over on the ID of the thrust-washer would be a normal design criteria. In the grand scheme of things, .060¡± oversize wouldn¡¯t matter on any low RPM
designs like a band saw. You may be seeing some wear on the old one. Myself, I¡¯d shoot for the .030¡±, and I¡¯d think ¡®store bought¡¯ thrust bearings for a 5/8¡± shaft would mostly be just that. Again¡.the design would be very forgiving in low RPM designs.
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660, or 932 (same thing) is the most common bearing grade bronze. 841, or Oilite, is sintered bronze, making it porous so as to hold oil.
Both are used in a lot of power tools¡.among many other things. For a band saw, I¡¯d go with 660 (932), unless there was some life problem. 660 has a bit better yield strength
than 841.
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Sometimes you have to get into the heavy duty, due to clearance restrictions, or, for whatever reason(s), you have early failures.
I used to design & make a lot of bearings with 954 (aluminum bronze) which is harder and tougher than 660.
Also designed & made bearings from 863 (manganese bronze) which is stronger yet, but less pleasant to work with. ?
Used both the above often, to improve bearing life, and still make it a direct replacement to the OEM 660 part. ?(attached example)
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There¡.TMI¡.sorry about that¡..
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Merry Christmas!
Bill
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From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2018 7:53 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: RE: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
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Bill,
Thanks for the information and confirmation. I must have been having a bad day. You're spot on about the ID. Once I stepped away from the washer and measured the shaft, the OD of the shaft is .625", thus the ID of the washer needs to be
at least that..... DUH! Using a different set of calipers, I can confirm, the "good" washer's ID is .688. Which causes me to ask, is the difference between shaft OD and thrust washer ID wear on the thrust, or intentional clearance? (I am told I "pick nits",
feel free to advise me if I am doing so here.)
Thanks for the link and transfer of knowledge on the 660 vs 841. I've never messed with thrust washers before so this is all a great education. :)
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <bill_1955@...> wrote :
Looking at the pic Darren, they look a bit larger on the ID than .4¡± (10mm)
Check that dim, and take a look at McMaster Car & see if anything they have will work.
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Also looking at the pic, they appear to be 841 by their color.
841 is synonymous with Oilite, or oil impregnated bronze.
That¡¯s just a guess¡.pics can be deceiving depending on the light.
Since they are in an oiled gearbox, 841 seems a bit redundant, and I would think 660 would work fine.
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Bill
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From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2018 11:14 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides [1 Attachment]
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[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Need a bit of help finding some thrust washers. At least I think they are thrust washers. I'm looking for 2 non-ferrous washers that measure 38mm od, 10mm id, and 3mm thick. (1.5"od, .4" id, .1" thick). These go in the
gear box. One between the drive sprocket and case and the other between the final bearing and worm gear. (This one was completely trashed, as was the roller bearing.) Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm needing. These don't look to be brass. Bronze maybe??
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Well, the new cam followers and blade back bearing came in. The cam followers were maybe .01 bigger in diameter but that was an easy fix w/ some fine filing. Thanks for the suggestions!! Next up is replacing all 7 roller
bearings, a couple of seals, a few thrust bearings, finish cleaning up the main body, prime, paint, and reassemble. This thing is FINALLY coming?together. :) I'll post pics and a bit of a write up once completed. While I doubt anyone else needs the part numbers,
I'll post the part numbers I've used. Heck, I might need them later. :)
You guys continue to rock! Thanks for the help, inspiration, and support!!
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Yes, it came through.? I think I will try the version made from aluminum and blade pieces, it seems that would work well.
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Just reloaded the pdf file, let me know if it works this time - jv
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