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Re: Wanted: Cutoff Stop Assembly for 4X6
The original design was mine, and it¡¯s a good thing he put up his version of it as no one was watching mine. I think I had 150 views before he linked to mine in his description, and now I have like 2000.
He did a nice job with it¡ really with most everything he does. I¡¯ve learned a lot from watching his channel. He is the only reason my saw is cutting as well as it does! |
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Re: Wanted: Cutoff Stop Assembly for 4X6
Hi Robert,
I put Johns design for a stop on my saw, honestly i wouldn¡¯t even bother to waste your time looking for the original ! I have tried to put the photos of my changes on this site & couldnt! I should try again. It takes a little shop time to make but will pay you back heaps! Once you start using it, the original becomes a bit of junk! I tried googling your saw but didn¡¯t get a decent picture to be able to see what you are looking for. If it looked like mine I¡¯d send you it......postage from NZ might be a bit steep! Cheers Kerrin Cheers Kerrin Sent from The DadPad2 |
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Re: Does anyone USE this forum anymore?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAs needed. Many of the questions/mods are in the files/photos. Green Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "mikey.cox@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> Date: 11/28/17 5:47 AM (GMT-05:00) To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Does anyone USE this forum anymore? Nice mods Mike
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Re: Does anyone USE this forum anymore?
as requested, I added some photos of my mods to my saw in an album on Photos page.
Most important thing I added was the cutoff table and rear angle stop so the cut off piece doesn't fall on the floor. The inside edge of the angle is just clear of blade, so it doubles as the visual indicator of where the part gets cut off as well as makes it handy to reference a scale. I also made new mounting holes so I can move the fixed jaw rearward to give 8" of cutting width when required. You can see where the fixed jaw goes over the loose shim and bolts down. Have to unscrew the cutoff table angle stop, but that is minor. |
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Re: Didn't Cut Straight.
I have a Harbor Freight saw I got about 15 years ago, and it had no way of adjusting the blade vertical cutting angle - and, it was off. I ended up drilling and tapping two holes in the frame underneath where the blade support is bolted to the frame, and using some sets screws to correct the problem (didn't correct it completely, but it's a lot less than it was).
Miker |
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Re: Didn't Cut Straight.
I'm an old phart, so my skill set doesn't include confusers .? However I'll try to write it out. The pivot has one ear cast into the main bow frame, the other is a leg that gives the saw it's angle. It's a separate casting. It's bolted to the frame on the two I've worked?on , they had?2?? 5/16" bolts, the goofy ones with 12mm heads. I needed the box end of the wrench.It's easier if you lift the frame vertical, that will give you a gap. I didn't take the bolts out, just backed them off and?cut the shims with a slot.?One alignment trick is put .020 or .040?in and see where it goes. If it goes the wrong way, you may have to file. Hope this helps.
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Re: Didn't Cut Straight.
Can you post pictures of the shim method??? mine is out too but have been living with it.? On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 12:00 PM, Ray S rsel1307@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Didn't Cut Straight.
I've used a number of industrial bandsaws in maintenance shops over the years. At best, they cut good'nuff. So I wasn't?expecting perfection. I had a TWS 4x6 horizontal bandsaw, that I picked off CL for $50. Every time I've used it, it seems I ended up fixing some thing on it. Something of a curse, like rolling the rock up the hill.?The last time I tried to use it, was to cut some 3" 3/8" angle iron, the clamp just lifted, dashing any hope of squarish sort of cut. It was as?ridged like a fish flopping around on the bottom of the boat.?? So that time, it was?repair the clamp. With the thing all a part to paint, I was going all out, I opened the gearbox cover and cut my finger trying to clean the grease out.. So much for this one, I went on CL and found another. This time I spent $100 on a cherry ?early BusyBee. From the looks of it, a Rong Fu #115 It didn't cut square. With a new blade it was better but still not square. It was out in the vertical plane when checked with a square, Like an honest 1/8" over 12".? I've read about guys reboring the pivot holes, but it was easier to simply shim between the bow frame and the leg. It took .032 of shim stock.?Now it's good'nuff. The teeth touch over 12" It still has other issues, vise design and angle clamp bolt. I'll also swap out the motor for the 3/4hp Baldor that I had put on the TWS. I hope the shim trick helps someone else. |
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Re: buffalo hvmbs-4.2 (1982)
Hi Andy & Hamish 'Outside' and 'inside' refer to whether the bearing is running on the outside or inside of the loop of the blade. If yours had the concentric mounted bearing on the outside, it's been replaced wrong in the past, as the fixed ones need to be on the inside, so that the blade always maintains the same run between the wheels and remains?square to the pivot and vice back. The eccentric ones adjust in from outside the loop of the blade?to twist and guide it with the right clearance. The back bearing's pin drives out to replace it, just like you thought.? The back bearings seldom fail as the load on them is negligible compared to their capacity?(~20lb radial load vs more than 1000lb capacity?and 800rpm vs more than 20000rpm). However the side guide rollers fail often. The twisting and running loads are similar or maybe less than the back bearing, but the shock loading when a bit of swarf runs between the blade and the roller is what destroys them. If you use lube, that makes it worse, because more swarf sticks to the wet blade and gets rolled through. That's why John Pitkin recommended 5-9thou" 'clearance' (difference between the blade thickness and the gap?between the rollers when measured with feeler gauges) rather than the 'just touching'?or?'1-2thou" recommended by the saw manufacturers. If you re-set to the wider clearance you have to re-adjust the blade vertical again. For the method look in the Wilton manual in the files section, its called m_3130.pdf. If your bearings had seized and you got them mobile again, I'd be?getting some replacement bearings to hand,?especially for the side guide rollers. When these bearings fail they spit the blade off and cause other cutting defects. Rgds - jv |
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Re: buffalo hvmbs-4.2 (1982)
hamish haig
Having recently given mine a once over when i got it home, most of the bearings were seized or tight. But some oil and working them back and fourth, i got the four side bearings turning. The rears needed a little more time, the pressure from cutting i suspect had helped to get them moving. The other thing i did was pull the vice nut out and file the top surface flat. I then used a nut the next size up from the bolt as a spacer between the nut and the vice jaw. Some careful filing to acchieve a small amount of clearance between the jaw and table with the bolt up tight. This eliminates the jaw from kicking up and jamming as it is wound back and fourth and ensures it moves with the nut. This may be different on other saws but was almost unusable when i got it, a real pita. On 23 Oct 2017 12:55 PM, "teamuc@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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Re: buffalo hvmbs-4.2 (1982)
When I posted I had only looked at one of the bearings, the outside(?) THAT only has a bushing,. I looked at the other one and the "bolt" is eccentric. It appeared to be adjusted to the tightest position. Unfortunately all 4 bearings are seized up. I'm going to try the same 6201 size first and see how they work out.
Has anyone replaced the back bearings? Do you just drive the pin out and drive back in? Andy |
K9GL