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Re: Digest Number 22
Jim E.
They had to toss it for some reason. Curious what you find out about
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it. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 00:40:45 -0000 |
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old 4X6Band Saw:
snookjr70546
Hey fellows, I go to a scrap yard and look through there scrap, I
came across a 4X6 band saw, it has a Craftsman tag on it, a lot better quality that the one that I have, got it for $ 20.00, and its got a real 3/4 HP motor, I will send a pic. next week, you all look to there are there, happying digging, Joe Guidry. |
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Re: new saw owner
sned1
Howdy, welcome.
First, check the message archives, there's some decent info there for you to start with. Second, order a good bimetal blade after you get your saw. Last, go forth and cut! --- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "rfjbosse" <m1carbine@h...> wrote: Hi, this is my first post. I have ordered my self a saw from HFand are waiting for it to be delivered. Any hints or tips for this saw? |
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Re: I had occasion to slice a 1/2" slice off a 4.5" dia. piece of AL...
tbn501s
Gee - I hope the fact that my (I'm Jim E.) bandsaw's slightly
different didn't turn people off. Appears I'm the last poster. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! --- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "Jim E." <jim0000@a...> wrote: On my bandsaw, the jaws are only about 1.5" high, and end about 4"from the blade. BUT, I do have to make a "confession" here. I do nothave the 4x6 model most of you probably have. HF used to sell a 4x6 withno legs or tension rod. It also was shorter - uses a 51.25" blade.Great for storage - it sits tucked under a workbench when not in use. Igot mine after they were discontinued - bought the floor model from theBIG HF store in Camarillo. Works great - just have to get on your kneesthe regular 4x6s have, to assist in moving from storage. (Acutally, I'mmodels for ease of storage. I mean, how often does one really use it?)2- bottom5/8" long. It looks like I can hold this round in my vise and make dia.xout on the round with a 1/4", if that, of Al left to cut. It's motor4" round with the standard vise. Do the vises vary that much? My 3/8"bearings and gear oil. The stationary jaw on this vise is 2-5/8" haveshort of extending to the center of the vise screw, so I might to put a 5" spacer at the other end of the movable jaw to keep |
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Subject: Newbie, tech ??
Jim E.
Slight perturbation from the weld in the blade? Cyclic features in the
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pulleys? I've seen it, too, never worried 'cuz it's a rough cut anyway. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 22:17:09 -0000 |
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Re: Digest Number 17
Be aware that HF has great prices on parts but doesn't seem to stock
much in the US. It may take months for your bearings to arrive via container ship from China. Ed On Sat, 2002-05-04 at 07:04, ke6bnl@... wrote: I thought I had a Harbor freight band saw for the past couple of years and when the blade bearings went bad I called them to get some new one. When I went to get the model number I discovered I had a Rung Fu 115. I believe they are nearly identical. The bearings I need are number 6000 which are metric 10mm ID x 26mm OD and 8mm thick. I have priced them from about $5.00 to $13.00 each at bearing supply places. The ones sold by HF are about $1.32. Does anyone know the exact size of the Harbor freight one so I could order theres if they match up and there part number. HF was unable to give me any dimensions and said they have a choice of two different ones. Thanks for the information Ed ke6bnl The band saw was given to me is the reason I was not sure on the brand. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + Ed ke6bnl@... ( 1950 f1 & 1963econo pu + + from Agua Dulce Ca. 70 chevy S/B) + + 70 miles No. East of Los Angeles + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: . Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. -- |
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Re: Digest Number 17
I thought I had a Harbor freight band saw for the past couple of years
and when the blade bearings went bad I called them to get some new one. When I went to get the model number I discovered I had a Rung Fu 115. I believe they are nearly identical. The bearings I need are number 6000 which are metric 10mm ID x 26mm OD and 8mm thick. I have priced them from about $5.00 to $13.00 each at bearing supply places. The ones sold by HF are about $1.32. Does anyone know the exact size of the Harbor freight one so I could order theres if they match up and there part number. HF was unable to give me any dimensions and said they have a choice of two different ones. Thanks for the information Ed ke6bnl The band saw was given to me is the reason I was not sure on the brand. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ + Ed ke6bnl@... ( 1950 f1 & 1963econo pu + + from Agua Dulce Ca. 70 chevy S/B) + + 70 miles No. East of Los Angeles + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: . |
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Newbie, tech ??
tomin130
I've just started making a few cuts on my Grizzly 4x6 bandsaw and
must say I'm quite pleased with the results. I am cutting 303 stainless bar, 3/4" x 2". Although it might not be the suggested orientation, I laid the piece flat so the blade started on the 2" side first. The cut surfaces showed fine striations in the direction of the blade travel. This was consistent through the whole cut and probably due to extremely small variation in blade tooth set or chips dragging in the kerf and pretty much expected. But this is my question. When the cut is held to the light at some angles, there appears to be a very definite "wavy" pattern in the surface. Think of this as looking at a ruffled potato chip, 90 degrees to the ruffles. The wave pattern is at 90 degrees to the fine striations, with a "wavelength" of about 0.22" . Is this making any sense? These waves can't be felt. What causes this? The rough bar as received from the supplier also showed a similar wavy pattern but it was obviously cut on a vertical saw on the 2" side first and the "wavelength is about 0.75". Both ends of the bar show the same pattern. The waves look more like plateaus followed by valleys and can be felt easily. I was using the original blade as supplied, 14 teeth per inch at the slowest blade speed, figuring I'd get some cheap practice, before ruining a good bi-metal blade. I think these waves may be caused by some factor related to tooth pitch but I don't know. Has anyone else seen this or know what causes it? Would I still see this if I switched to a variable pitch blade? Any ideas? Tom Jenks |
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Re: I had occasion to slice a 1/2" slice off a 4.5" dia. piece of AL...
Jim E.
On my bandsaw, the jaws are only about 1.5" high, and end about 4" from
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the blade. BUT, I do have to make a "confession" here. I do not have the 4x6 model most of you probably have. HF used to sell a 4x6 with no legs or tension rod. It also was shorter - uses a 51.25" blade. Great for storage - it sits tucked under a workbench when not in use. I got mine after they were discontinued - bought the floor model from the BIG HF store in Camarillo. Works great - just have to get on your knees to use it. But the work doesn't fall 2 ft. when the cuts done, so I can set it up and walk away. I added wheels on one end, like what the regular 4x6s have, to assist in moving from storage. (Acutally, I'm surprized more people havent' removed the legs from the stand-up models for ease of storage. I mean, how often does one really use it?) Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 19:30:30 -0000 |
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stands
sned1
I wish I'd taken a picture, but I ditched the chintzy sheet metal
legs and replaced with some 2x4's, a piece of plywood, and 4 casters. My friend cut the 2x4's to fit the bottom angles under the saw frame. I had to alter on a bit by hand (not quite perfect but it works) to route around the power switch. The 2x4's I screwed into the plywood base, and bolted the casters underneath. On the back side (the tensioning spring side) I put a piece of pegboard with some hooks to hold spare blades while not in use. I plan on polyurethaning the whole contraption so it's liquid resistant. After poly-ing, I'll try and get some cross members between the legs to support a drip pan, and on the plywood I'll add a coolant pump system. Hopefully. I went this route after I mangled one leg and had a lovely experience balancing a circular saw (unplugged, thank goodness), a saw blade, and the bandsaw, which was falling down. After recovering from that, and determining that the leg was not worth trying to fix, I went the 2x4 route instead. It's much sturdier, and since it's on 4 casters, can be wheeled quite easily around the shop. Two of the casters lock in place, and the other two are fixed position casters. Anyone else replaced the stand for their saw? |
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Re: I had occasion to slice a 1/2" slice off a 4.5" dia. piece of AL...
I've got to cut a 3/8" thick slice of a 5" dia. Al round that is 2-
5/8" long. It looks like I can hold this round in my vise and make the cut without any jigs or work-arounds. The saw frame will bottom out on the round with a 1/4", if that, of Al left to cut. It's surprising that you needed to jury rig something to cut a 4.5" dia.x 4" round with the standard vise. Do the vises vary that much? My bandsaw is a 12 year old Enco that is original except for the motor bearings and gear oil. The stationary jaw on this vise is 2-5/8" high, while the movable jaw is 2-9/16" high. My round is about 3/8" short of extending to the center of the vise screw, so I might have to put a 5" spacer at the other end of the movable jaw to keep things firmly in place. |
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Re: stuff to do
marvinh336
These are things I have been with my 4x6
1. Bimetal blade is the most important. They are expensive but worth it. They are usually 10 teeth per inch that alternate with 14 teeth per inch. It sets up a clearing action that carries away chips and faster cutting. 2. I do wax the blade with paraffin or if I run out, the old paste floor wax. Helps a little, not a lot. 3. Because the stand is so wobbley, I cut sections of angle iron and bolted them between the legs to stiffen the whole set up. 4. I do use coolant-plain water. I looked at a lot of synthetic coolants and too polluting for me to poor out on ground or flush. I got a big plastic bucket for below machine and put in one of the HF pumps for rock fountains, on sale for around $10.00 as I recall, but usually 14.00. I fixed the tube to drip just above the blade. With this set up, I cut a 3 inch solid steel round bar in not quite an hour. Previously, it took days, I would start at the first of week and use cutting oil, squirting it on at intervals, would go a couple of hours, then turn off, then restart next night, until finally cut. What is impressive is how the water may cool the blade but it carries alway all the fine chips that retard cutting. Therefore, to protect the pump from fine chips getting into the intake, I cover the pump in the plastic bucket with an old plastic orange juice bottle cut out to cover the pump like a hat. 5. If not using water coolant, I do use weights like the hammer descirbed to add force to the saw cutting. |
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Re: Saw tricks I've tried
Good tips!
Here is one I have tried... Had a 3" diameter brass rod that needed a 1" length, sliced off of it. The stock was not long enough to be held in the vise. (only about 1.5" long, as well as i can remember) To solve the dilemma, I used an automotive hose clamp (the one with the worm and pinion tightener) to hold the stock in place. This was wrapped around the stock and the outside flat surface across the blade from the vise. To handle large diameter work, you can couple these hose clamps together to make them long enough to accommodate the stock. Another tip... When cutting thin material, make sure that a least 2 teeth (three's better) contact the cross-section of the material. (otherwise, you may strip some teeth... not good) Leo (in pearland) |
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Re: Saw tricks I've tried
Jim E.
I had occasion to slice a 1/2" slice off a 4.5" dia. piece of AL this
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weekend. I found that as it started getting to the thickest part, it was taking it's time. I also added weight (a small vise, in my case) to the arm and it helped immensely. Another trick: this piece was only about 4" thick, so I couldn't hold it in the vise. Using plumbers metal strapping tape (the kind with the holes every inch or so) I bound it solidly to a 2x4, then mounted the board in the vise. Worked great. Plus, I was able to squeeze on the tape some with the vise, further tightening it down. I've done this before and have had good results every time. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! There is 1 message in this issue. |
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Saw tricks I've tried
sned1
Just some quickie bits that I've done with my saw to make it run a
bit better. It sounded to me that it was a bit bouncy and rough when cutting so I started looking around at the saw to see what I could do to make it better. First, the oil in the gear box I drained and refilled it with new, fresh oil. It seemed to help a bit. Second, the v-belt was making most of the noise it seemed, so I took an old candle waxed the edges a bit and that helped. Just have to do it everytime before using it so as to make it effective. And no it doesn't slip either. Last, when using the saw to cut, even with the spring in the fully loose position (ie, for aluminum), the blade bounces a bit when cutting. So I took a claw hammer, and hung it on the top hand hold to give it a little weight, and that seems to stop any bouncing that was going on. Cheezy and in search of a more long term solution, but it worked. On another note, Harbor Fright sells a coolant pump unit for $39 that has a two gallon tank and a 4 foot nozzle. If someone was adventurous and wanted a cheap coolant setup, that might be something to look at. Right now I use a spray bottle of WD-40 for aluminum. As I'm getting more and more into steel, some kind of cutting fluid would be good to look into and a delivery system as well. |
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not cutting square...
Hey Guys!
I changed my blade today, and found the blade not tracking right on the idler (upper) wheel. I looked up the adjustment instructions and adjusted so the teeth did not ride on the wheel surface. (i read that this a big no, no) After I tightened everything up, I made a cut. The vertical face of the cut was not at 90 degrees as before! I looked up the adjustments for this, but before I "messed" with another adjustment, I decided to readjust the blade tracking. This time I was more careful with the "back and forth" adjusting of the blade tension knob and the tracking screw. Tried it again and the cut was now 90 degrees. (yippee) Moral: If you make a change (adjustment) and something unexpected happens, do the adjustment again. Now back to making the throttle body.... Leo (hot in pearland, but dry) |
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New file uploaded to 4x6bandsaw
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 4x6bandsaw group. File : /BandSaw.pdf Uploaded by : mrb37211 <cbrumbelow@...> Description : Harbor Freight 4x6 Manual You can access this file at the URL To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit Regards, mrb37211 <cbrumbelow@...> |
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