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Hydraulics 4x6 cheap

sparky4619
 

If you wish to mount the control valve remote from the cylinder,
flexable grease gun hoses can be used, 1/8" npt ends, available in
lengths to 24", 3000 psi working pressure.

Sparky


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Richard Albers
 

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod" <rangerod@n...> wrote:
RA

O.K. I understand what you are talking about, sounds like a good
idea. If you go that route can you give details & pics if possible.
I'll certainly try. I hope you all understand that this is not
yet quite at the top of my "to do" list, so it will be a while
before you see anything.

The site I purchased the unit from says its a air unit but it
really sounds like there is hydro fluid in it & when I close the
valve the head stops suddenly with no "bounce".
That is good information to have. It may encourage others to try
this item, even though it is advertised as an "air cylinder".

I suppose this means you did not need to do any of the plumbing
on the cylinder or the control valve? Pre-plumbed could be a good
selling point for some 4x6 owners. I know it would be for me, if
I didn't already have my parts. If I have too much trouble with
getting the oil in and the air out, it still may be... ;-)

RA


HF bandsaw for $99.99

 

I am a new member to this board, and I was reading where people got a
bandsaw from HF for the Homier price. I looked in the files and all
I could find was a list of tools offered by Homier. When I tried to
click on the link by the bandsaw, it wouldn't work. Is this list the
thing you guys have been taking into the HF store? If not, could
somebody email me the flier. I am planning on going up to the store
tomorrow, so a quick response would be appreciated. Also if the list
is what you are taking into the store, how does that work since there
is no date on it. Thanks


Re: Gear Oil

 

Hi Bill - I just joined the other day...I'm planning on picking up a
HF 4x6 this weekend - $149 on sale! Woohoo!

Regarding the gear oil change, is it pretty intuitive how much
replacement oil to add? I'm planning on draining the gearbox and
filling it back up with....90W? 75/140W? What's everyone recommend?
Also, is there a a "fill line" or do I need to measure how much to
replace in advance.

Thanks!

Jason

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Bill Jones" <WBJones@u...> wrote:
Hi, I just joined last week right after I purchased a HF 4x6 at the
Ft Collins, CO store. So far I am real happy with it. Cut up about
100 ft of 1/4 HR rod over the weekend and it really beats my 6"
chop
saw.

Anyway after reading the posts about gear oil I decided I would
check
mine out. It was about 30 degrees in the garage at the time. When I
opened the cover I found the most awful looking stuff I ever saw. A
brown substance with what looked like white foam mixed in. It was
the
consistency of grease gun grease. I used a putty knife to remove
most
of it then used a hair dryer to liquify the rest so it would drain
and wipe out. Then I filled the box with Amsoil 75-140 synthetic
gear
oil. Saw runs much smoother now and I feel a lot better about the
gears lasting. Also new bi-metal 10-14 on order to arrive Monday.

Great list with lots of useful information. Thanks...Bill


Re: Coolant system

thumbtrap43
 

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rswooley49" <rsw49@B...> wrote:
I am in the process of building a new stand and adding a coolant
system to my saw right now also. I just finished making a 12inch X
26inch pan for mine for about $6. I copied the idea from George
Carlson's plans in the mini-lathe website.
I saw his plans too. The local welding shop sold me 16ga sheet that ran about $2 for the bandsaw stand and $6 for the mill/drill. I was going to attempt the 20 degree notches like he did - but that didn't work too well. I just clamped the sheet to the 2" sq tube stand I had welded up, and used a couple pieces of angle iron for a brake. Results were horrible. Then I found out a farm down the road had a big brake (and I'm learning all these farmers in the neighborhood are usually VERY happy to help out the guy in the neighborhood who just got a mill. :) Hope I'm not going too far in debt on favors here.) I had to notch my corners square because of the brake, but it bent up real purty. Fixing to go get some 16ga scrap to close em back up now.

I considered piecing together a coolant system, but the HF one you guys are talking about is cheaper than almost any pump I've seen except the aquarium air pumps - and this doesn't look like I'd have enough vertical lift to make good use of an air lift system. I might cut the tube and add a manifold in later - but it looks like a good starting place.


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Allen Sparks
 

It's a oil filled unit

Sparky
--- rangerod <rangerod@...> wrote:
RA

O.K. I understand what you are talking about, sounds
like a good idea. If you go that route can you give
details & pics if possible. The site I purchased the
unit from says its a air unit but it really sounds
like there is hydro fluid in it & when I close the
valve the head stops suddenly with no "bounce". Glad
to be of assistance.

Rod
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Albers
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 11:15 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod"
<rangerod@n...> wrote:
> RA
>
> I don't know too much about hydraulic systems
but I do not
> believe it matters how the unit is orientated
(vertical,
> horizontal, angled ect...) All the saws that
come with
> hydraulics are mounted on the motor end of the
saw head.
>
> Rod

Maybe I wasn't clear. I mean to mount the
cylinder just the
same as you did, but mount the control valve at or
near the end
of the saw with the vise wheel using flexible
hoses. (Do they
make them that small?) I hadn't checked the
source before I
replied, and I was assuming you used a hydraulic
cylinder, not
an air cylinder. The remote control mounting
would work on
either, but there is fewer messy details with air.
Hydraulics
will give a firmer (less bounce) control, however.

I traded for a "real" hydraulic cylinder which I
intend to use.
Someday... Thanks for getting me thinking about
this project.

RA





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Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

RA
?
O.K. I understand what you are talking about, sounds like a good idea. If you go that route can you give details & pics if possible. The site I purchased the unit from says its a air unit but it really sounds like there is hydro fluid in it & when I close the valve the head stops suddenly with no "bounce". Glad to be of assistance.
?
Rod

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 11:15 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod" <rangerod@n...> wrote:
> RA
>
> I don't know too much about hydraulic systems but I do not
> believe it matters how the unit is orientated (vertical,
> horizontal, angled ect...) All the saws that come with
> hydraulics are mounted on the motor end of the saw head.
>
> Rod

? Maybe I wasn't clear.? I mean to mount the cylinder just the
same as you did, but mount the control valve at or near the end
of the saw with the vise wheel using flexible hoses.? (Do they
make them that small?)? I hadn't checked the source before I
replied, and I was assuming you used a hydraulic cylinder, not
an air cylinder.? The remote control mounting would work on
either, but there is fewer messy details with air.? Hydraulics
will give a firmer (less bounce) control, however.

? I traded for a "real" hydraulic cylinder which I intend to use.
Someday...? Thanks for getting me thinking about this project.

? RA





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  • To visit your group on the web, go to:

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Gear Oil

 

Hi, I just joined last week right after I purchased a HF 4x6 at the
Ft Collins, CO store. So far I am real happy with it. Cut up about
100 ft of 1/4 HR rod over the weekend and it really beats my 6" chop
saw.

Anyway after reading the posts about gear oil I decided I would check
mine out. It was about 30 degrees in the garage at the time. When I
opened the cover I found the most awful looking stuff I ever saw. A
brown substance with what looked like white foam mixed in. It was the
consistency of grease gun grease. I used a putty knife to remove most
of it then used a hair dryer to liquify the rest so it would drain
and wipe out. Then I filled the box with Amsoil 75-140 synthetic gear
oil. Saw runs much smoother now and I feel a lot better about the
gears lasting. Also new bi-metal 10-14 on order to arrive Monday.

Great list with lots of useful information. Thanks...Bill


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Richard Albers
 

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod" <rangerod@n...> wrote:
RA

I don't know too much about hydraulic systems but I do not
believe it matters how the unit is orientated (vertical,
horizontal, angled ect...) All the saws that come with
hydraulics are mounted on the motor end of the saw head.

Rod
Maybe I wasn't clear. I mean to mount the cylinder just the
same as you did, but mount the control valve at or near the end
of the saw with the vise wheel using flexible hoses. (Do they
make them that small?) I hadn't checked the source before I
replied, and I was assuming you used a hydraulic cylinder, not
an air cylinder. The remote control mounting would work on
either, but there is fewer messy details with air. Hydraulics
will give a firmer (less bounce) control, however.

I traded for a "real" hydraulic cylinder which I intend to use.
Someday... Thanks for getting me thinking about this project.

RA


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

RA
?
I don't know too much about hydraulic systems but I do not believe it matters how the unit is orientated (vertical, horizontal, angled ect...) All the saws that come with hydraulics are mounted on the motor?end of the saw head.
?
Rod

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:51 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Alan Rothenbush <alan@s...> wrote:
>
> I might take a crack at rotating the cylinder 90 degrees, so the
> plumbing is out of the way, but still above the top of the stand.
>
> The adjustment will then be facing down, but a bit of Rube Goldberg
> might fix that.

? I think that the reason the cylinder is mounted the way it is,
in most cases, is to get the air out of the system.? It leaves the
cylinder at either end through the upward-oriented fittings, and is
removed at one of the fittings at the highest point in the system.
? (Would the originator (rangerod?) comment on this?)

? I would try to mount the control at the end of the saw instead,
(near the wheel for the vise) using some flexible hoses to connect
it to the cylinder.? That may make it more convenient to adjust even
if you (I) don't need the extra clearance.

? I'm getting excited about putting one of these on my own saw!

? RA






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Re: lennox 10-14 blades

way2phastphil
 

Try your local welding supply shop. The one I deal with gets the
blades from a vendor, whatever length I want. It's not Lenox ( even
thought they are made in the next town over) but they will not sell
junk. I don't know what brand it is, but they are good.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Steve Hebert" <swh@t...> wrote:
Where can these be purchased reasonably?
Enco sells a Morse Acu-rite bimetal 10-14. Any one had experience
with it or other alternatives to the Lennox?
Thanks,
Steve


Re: lennox 10-14 blades

BOB & CINDY WRIGHT
 

www.countrysaw.com This is where buy mine..Bob

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Steve Hebert" <swh@t...> wrote:
Where can these be purchased reasonably?
Enco sells a Morse Acu-rite bimetal 10-14. Any one had experience
with it or other alternatives to the Lennox?
Thanks,
Steve


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Richard Albers
 

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Alan Rothenbush <alan@s...> wrote:

I might take a crack at rotating the cylinder 90 degrees, so the
plumbing is out of the way, but still above the top of the stand.

The adjustment will then be facing down, but a bit of Rube Goldberg
might fix that.
I think that the reason the cylinder is mounted the way it is,
in most cases, is to get the air out of the system. It leaves the
cylinder at either end through the upward-oriented fittings, and is
removed at one of the fittings at the highest point in the system.
(Would the originator (rangerod?) comment on this?)

I would try to mount the control at the end of the saw instead,
(near the wheel for the vise) using some flexible hoses to connect
it to the cylinder. That may make it more convenient to adjust even
if you (I) don't need the extra clearance.

I'm getting excited about putting one of these on my own saw!

RA


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

In a message dated 1/28/2004 1:52:44 AM US Mountain Standard Time, rralbers@... writes:
? I think that the reason the cylinder is mounted the way it is,
in most cases, is to get the air out of the system.? It leaves the
cylinder at either end through the upward-oriented fittings, and is
removed at one of the fittings at the highest point in the system.
? (Would the originator (rangerod?) comment on this?)
***
I don't think these units are actually hydraulic, but an air spring, like the hood and hatch units on cars. The difference is it has external plumbing to allow the gas to bypass the piston rather than being compressed. As described on the website it was made for an exercise machine. It really doesn't make any difference, except it would work in any position.
?
Nice project and great refinement for the machine IMHO.
?
As a newcomer to the list, a little info:
?
I actually use a Milwaukee "Portaband" (I know that is a Porter Cable name) on a table mount wt. pipe legs. The restriction of course is it is horiz. only and has a capacity of 4.25" X 4.25". So far it serves my purpose. May have to join the big boys someday.
?
Jim, Glendale, AZ
?
?


lennox 10-14 blades

Steve Hebert
 

Where can these be purchased reasonably?
Enco sells a Morse Acu-rite bimetal 10-14. Any one had experience
with it or other alternatives to the Lennox?
Thanks,
Steve


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Kerry Pinkerton
 

You're welcome Rod. I ordered two of these cylinders, one for my HF 4x6 and
one for a large wellsaw. I haven't gotten either mounted yet.

Kerryp

KaP Imperial Services - Patch Panels, Metalshaping, Restoration
Manufacturer of high quality Wheeling Machines

----- Original Message -----
From: "rangerod1" <rangerod@...>
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 10:02 PM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap


Hey guys just uploaded some pics of the hydralic unit I just added to
my saw in the Rod's Pics folder. I spent approx $20 with the hydralic
unit & metal total. I want to thank Kerry Pinkerton for turning me on
to the hydralic unit works like a charm. If anyone want more detailed
pics send an e-mail & I'll get them to you as soon as I can. Next the
Coolant upgrade Then to fix that crappy vise. Well enjoy.

Rod





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Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Steve
?
The hydraulic unit just regulates the amount weight of the saw head that you want to allow?on to the blade, the unit does not create any kind of pressure.
?
Rod

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 2:41 PM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

thanks, Rod
Another basic question. Does the hydraulic unit actually put the
pressure on the blade or allow control of weight placed on the
sawhead.
TIA,
Steve
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod" <rangerod@n...> wrote:
> Steve
>
> Thanks for the comments. I don't have a site right now but want to
work on getting one. The hydraulic unit is what is used for sporting
equipment like stair steppers, I'll post the site I purchased it from
below. Definitely get a Lennox 10-14 bi-metal blade you won't regret
it. They cut way faster & last longer than the carbon steel blade the
saw came with.
>
> Here is the url for the hydro cylinder

UID=2004010606153329&catname=&qty=1&item=1-1554
>
> Enjoy
>
> Rod
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>?? From: Steve Hebert
>?? To: 4x6bandsaw@...
>?? Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 8:42 PM
>?? Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap
>
>
>?? Hi Rod,
>?? Nice pics and work. Do you have a site with the info on this mod?
Is
>?? that hydraulic cyl a door closer? sorry to be so out of it, but I
>?? just got this thing and am learning. BTW, do the 10-14 bimetal
blades
>?? cut faster or just last longer than the one that came on the saw?
>?? Trying to decide if I should replace before it wears out. Seems
to
>?? work pretty good.
>?? Thanks,
>?? Steve
>
>?? --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod1"
wrote:
>?? > Hey guys just uploaded some pics of the hydralic unit I just
added
>?? to
>?? > my saw in the Rod's Pics folder. I spent approx $20 with the
>?? hydralic
>?? > unit & metal total. I want to thank Kerry Pinkerton for turning
me
>?? on
>?? > to the hydralic unit works like a charm. If anyone want more
>?? detailed
>?? > pics send an e-mail & I'll get them to you as soon as I can.
Next
>?? the
>?? > Coolant upgrade Then to fix that crappy vise. Well enjoy.
>?? >
>?? > Rod
>
>
>???????? Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>?????????????? ADVERTISEMENT
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>???????
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>
>
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>??????
>???? b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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  • To visit your group on the web, go to:

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Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Alan
?
Yes then the hydro unit will be vertical.
?
Rod

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

On Sunday 25 January 2004 22:18, rangerod wrote:

> 3. The reason you can't mount it that way is the hydro unit will be
> in the way when long stock is clamped in the vise due to the
> plumbing of the unit.

Ahh, yes, of course.

My stand looks a little bit like



only without the upper tray (and not nearly so pretty).?

It's made from 2" x 2" x 3/16" angle iron, meaning the stand weigh
about as much as the saw; what possessed me to use such material is
entirely beyond me.? The saw simply sits on the end rails.? I have a
plastic tupperware tray right underneath to catch all the badness.


I might take a crack at rotating the cylinder 90 degrees, so the
plumbing is out of the way, but still above the top of the stand.

The adjustment will then be facing down, but a bit of Rube Goldberg
might fix that.


> I have seen the hydro units mounted in front by using the bolts on
> the gear box & bolted to the frame but I can't find the site I saw
> it on.

The cylinder is then vertical ?


Alan


--
Alan Rothenbush????????????
Academic Computing Services?
Simon Fraser University????
Burnaby, B.C., Canada?????????????????????????


?????????????? Before me things create were none, save things
?????????????? Eternal, and eternal I endure.
?????????????? All hope abandon ye who enter here.




Yahoo! Groups Links
  • To visit your group on the web, go to:

    ?
  • To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...
    ?
  • Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the .


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Steve Hebert
 

thanks, Rod
Another basic question. Does the hydraulic unit actually put the
pressure on the blade or allow control of weight placed on the
sawhead.
TIA,
Steve
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod" <rangerod@n...> wrote:
Steve

Thanks for the comments. I don't have a site right now but want to
work on getting one. The hydraulic unit is what is used for sporting
equipment like stair steppers, I'll post the site I purchased it from
below. Definitely get a Lennox 10-14 bi-metal blade you won't regret
it. They cut way faster & last longer than the carbon steel blade the
saw came with.

Here is the url for the hydro cylinder

UID=2004010606153329&catname=&qty=1&item=1-1554

Enjoy

Rod

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Hebert
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 8:42 PM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap


Hi Rod,
Nice pics and work. Do you have a site with the info on this mod?
Is
that hydraulic cyl a door closer? sorry to be so out of it, but I
just got this thing and am learning. BTW, do the 10-14 bimetal
blades
cut faster or just last longer than the one that came on the saw?
Trying to decide if I should replace before it wears out. Seems
to
work pretty good.
Thanks,
Steve

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rangerod1" <rangerod@n...>
wrote:
> Hey guys just uploaded some pics of the hydralic unit I just
added
to
> my saw in the Rod's Pics folder. I spent approx $20 with the
hydralic
> unit & metal total. I want to thank Kerry Pinkerton for turning
me
on
> to the hydralic unit works like a charm. If anyone want more
detailed
> pics send an e-mail & I'll get them to you as soon as I can.
Next
the
> Coolant upgrade Then to fix that crappy vise. Well enjoy.
>
> Rod


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--------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:


b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Service.


Re: Hydralics On 4 X 6 Cheap

Alan Rothenbush
 

On Sunday 25 January 2004 22:18, rangerod wrote:

3. The reason you can't mount it that way is the hydro unit will be
in the way when long stock is clamped in the vise due to the
plumbing of the unit.
Ahh, yes, of course.

My stand looks a little bit like



only without the upper tray (and not nearly so pretty).

It's made from 2" x 2" x 3/16" angle iron, meaning the stand weigh
about as much as the saw; what possessed me to use such material is
entirely beyond me. The saw simply sits on the end rails. I have a
plastic tupperware tray right underneath to catch all the badness.


I might take a crack at rotating the cylinder 90 degrees, so the
plumbing is out of the way, but still above the top of the stand.

The adjustment will then be facing down, but a bit of Rube Goldberg
might fix that.


I have seen the hydro units mounted in front by using the bolts on
the gear box & bolted to the frame but I can't find the site I saw
it on.
The cylinder is then vertical ?


Alan


--
Alan Rothenbush
Academic Computing Services
Simon Fraser University
Burnaby, B.C., Canada


Before me things create were none, save things
Eternal, and eternal I endure.
All hope abandon ye who enter here.