开云体育

That's probably what I'll end up having to do.
I just hate having to spend 2 hours when anybody with a box brake
could knock 'em out in 20 minutes.
I'm pretty close to completeing a new stand for the Smith so I guess
it's time to start bendin.

BTW I just got the HF coolant systems in the mail.
Aside from the cheap tubing they're pretty nice.
We'll see how the motor holds up.
The spigot has a magnetic base and a valve to control the flow.
I test fired one with water and it will run from a slow drip to a
nice steady flow but not real powerful like a parts washer.





--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rswooley49" <rsw49@B...> wrote:

I still have to buy/build pans for both machines.
The local welding shop wants $50. each which I think is too high

so

I'm still looking around.

I am in the process of building a new stand and adding a coolant
system to my saw right now also. I just finished making a 12inch X
26inch pan for mine for about $6. I copied the idea from George
Carlson's plans in the mini-lathe website. I bought a piece of 14
gauge sheet metal and notched each corner. I used a metal cutting
blade in my circular saw to cut a shallow groove around the

perimeter

of the sheet one inch in from the edge. That made it a little

easier

to bend along the groove.I then used a pair of vise grips that

have

the wide jaws [ about 3inches wide]to bend the edges of the sheet

up

until they came together. I put a small weld at each corner to

seal

it up. If you don't have a welder there may be another way to seal
the corners. I don't know if soldering would hold or JB weld

might.

Lots cheaper than the welding shop price. I still have to install

a

drain in the pan. Good luck, Rich W.

I still have to buy/build pans for both machines.
The local welding shop wants $50. each which I think is too high so
I'm still looking around.

I am in the process of building a new stand and adding a coolant
system to my saw right now also. I just finished making a 12inch X
26inch pan for mine for about $6. I copied the idea from George
Carlson's plans in the mini-lathe website. I bought a piece of 14
gauge sheet metal and notched each corner. I used a metal cutting
blade in my circular saw to cut a shallow groove around the perimeter
of the sheet one inch in from the edge. That made it a little easier
to bend along the groove.I then used a pair of vise grips that have
the wide jaws [ about 3inches wide]to bend the edges of the sheet up
until they came together. I put a small weld at each corner to seal
it up. If you don't have a welder there may be another way to seal
the corners. I don't know if soldering would hold or JB weld might.
Lots cheaper than the welding shop price. I still have to install a
drain in the pan. Good luck, Rich W.

I'll chime in in favor of the HF saw also. I bought one of these a
while back, and as someone that usually avoids HF stuff like the
plague, I think this saw is great.

But yes, get a new blade. And keep an eye on it while running so you
can keep the motor from burning up if it jams.

Have fun,

John in Illinois

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
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Uploaded by : popwri2002 <wright6933@...>
Description : Homier Saw Ad.

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popwri2002 <wright6933@...>

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Chris Baugher
<cbaugher_yahoo@b...> wrote:

While I've never seen the Jet personally I doubt it will be $100

better

than the HF, Grizzly, etc.. I have the HF and I think it's

probably one

of the most useful tools to have. The Jet will work great I'm sure

but I

would save the extra money and buy some better blades.

C|

On Tue, 9 Dec 2003, Pat wrote:

Hi,

I am new to this forum and need some input on which saw to

receive as

a Christmas present from my wife. I was leaning towards the Harbor
Freight which is presently on sale for $149.99 at the HF store in
Rockford, IL. Then I went to Menards for some electrical supplies

and

eye-balled the Jet HVBS-56M model they had on display. The Jet

has a

price of $259.99 on it. I have only seen pictures of the HF saw,

but

from what I can tell the only difference between the Jet and the

HF

is that the Jet has an adjustable material stop, and adjustable
levelers on two of the legs. I then found out that my wife is

going

to get the Jet saw on the advice from her brother. I guess I

would be

happy with either saw, but is the Jet worth the extra $100.00. I
would hate to see her spend more money than needed. I will be

using

whatever saw I end up with for cutting mild steel angles, bar, and
flats. I have read some of the previous posts but did not find
anything that stated that one was better than the other. Any
information on the differences between the two saws would be

greatly

appreciated.................thanks,

Pat.



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Thanks for the replies Chris and William. I believe The HF saw

will do everything I need it to do. William, I e-mailed you in
regards to that $99.00 Homier ad. Chris, I will take your advice and
get some better bi-metal blades.........thanks again

While I've never seen the Jet personally I doubt it will be $100 better
than the HF, Grizzly, etc.. I have the HF and I think it's probably one
of the most useful tools to have. The Jet will work great I'm sure but I
would save the extra money and buy some better blades.

C|

Hi Pat
I have the HF 4x6 saw,I paid $99.99 + tax for it I took the Homier
ad in with me and asked the manager at HF would he honor Homiers
price he said sure and loaded it up for me.I like the heck out of
mine be sure you get a bimetal blade for it.
Do you have a HF store near by?
By the way if you need the ad I think I might still have it I can
email it to you if you want it.

William
- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Pat" <york01@c...> wrote:

Hi,

I am new to this forum and need some input on which saw to receive

as

a Christmas present from my wife. I was leaning towards the Harbor
Freight which is presently on sale for $149.99 at the HF store in
Rockford, IL. Then I went to Menards for some electrical supplies

and

eye-balled the Jet HVBS-56M model they had on display. The Jet has

a

price of $259.99 on it. I have only seen pictures of the HF saw,

but

from what I can tell the only difference between the Jet and the

HF

is that the Jet has an adjustable material stop, and adjustable
levelers on two of the legs. I then found out that my wife is

going

to get the Jet saw on the advice from her brother. I guess I would

be

happy with either saw, but is the Jet worth the extra $100.00. I
would hate to see her spend more money than needed. I will be

using

whatever saw I end up with for cutting mild steel angles, bar, and
flats. I have read some of the previous posts but did not find
anything that stated that one was better than the other. Any
information on the differences between the two saws would be

greatly

appreciated.................thanks,

Pat.

Hi,

I am new to this forum and need some input on which saw to receive as
a Christmas present from my wife. I was leaning towards the Harbor
Freight which is presently on sale for $149.99 at the HF store in
Rockford, IL. Then I went to Menards for some electrical supplies and
eye-balled the Jet HVBS-56M model they had on display. The Jet has a
price of $259.99 on it. I have only seen pictures of the HF saw, but
from what I can tell the only difference between the Jet and the HF
is that the Jet has an adjustable material stop, and adjustable
levelers on two of the legs. I then found out that my wife is going
to get the Jet saw on the advice from her brother. I guess I would be
happy with either saw, but is the Jet worth the extra $100.00. I
would hate to see her spend more money than needed. I will be using
whatever saw I end up with for cutting mild steel angles, bar, and
flats. I have read some of the previous posts but did not find
anything that stated that one was better than the other. Any
information on the differences between the two saws would be greatly
appreciated.................thanks,

Pat.

It already comes with a small table for vertical use. Frank's is a
major enhancement to it.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

Jeff Moskovitz wrote:

Congrats Jeff, Never built that table but it looks like an
improvement over the stock one. Cut on..Bob
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Jeff Moskovitz <mosk@a...> wrote:

Finally got a saw, so I guess I can now be a member of this list in

good

standing ;-)

Took delivery of a Grizzly G9742 last week. This saw uses the same

head and

motor as the other 4x6 bandsaws, but it uses a different base --

the base

pivots easily and can make cuts of up to 60°. It has a few other
differences, but it's essentially the same saw as the other 4x6

saws. I'm

very glad to have one of these in my shop now -- this was a tool I

went

without for far too long!

Anyway, I think my first task will be to make a small table so I

can use it

vertically. I like the table described here:
. Has anyone

else built

something like this? It looks like a decent design.

Thanks,

Jeff

Finally got a saw, so I guess I can now be a member of this list in good
standing ;-)

Took delivery of a Grizzly G9742 last week. This saw uses the same head and
motor as the other 4x6 bandsaws, but it uses a different base -- the base
pivots easily and can make cuts of up to 60°. It has a few other
differences, but it's essentially the same saw as the other 4x6 saws. I'm
very glad to have one of these in my shop now -- this was a tool I went
without for far too long!

Anyway, I think my first task will be to make a small table so I can use it
vertically. I like the table described here:
. Has anyone else built
something like this? It looks like a decent design.

Thanks,

Jeff

I was just given a kysor-johnson model R horizontal cutoff saw. It is
missing the drive motor. Does anyone have any company information on
this saw or know where I can locate a manual for this saw.

Thanx, I saw your post and pics.
I needed a cooling system for my Smithy 3in1 and since they were on
sale I went ahead and bought one for the saw too.
I still have to buy/build pans for both machines.
The local welding shop wants $50. each which I think is too high so
I'm still looking around.
I swithched to bi-metal blades when I first got the saw - about
$10.ea from Enco and yes I agree it makes a big difference.
LUBRICANT ? - Right now I use 50/50 mix of plumbers pipe cutting oil
and kerosine in a spray bottle for cutting, drilling, threading,
milling and turning. Anybody see any reason why this wouldn't work
in the pumps ?

OK, if you check the posts you should see an article where I

describe building and using a recirculating coolant system from some
household stuff. I built mine and have been using it from the second
day of ownwership of my bandsaw. It works really well and probably
cuts (no pun intended) cutting time about 50%. I assume that like
mine yours will be using a centrifugal pump and if this is so
putting a valve on the discharge side of the pump to control the
flow rate is a very good idea and will in no way hurt the pump.
Actually the load on the pump is reduced with the discharge side
blocked as less work is being done. I also changed to a Lenox Bi-
metal blade.

Hope this helps some.

Cheers, Cletus 9Z4CLB





chuck_uandr <upandrunning@m...> wrote: HF had the 2gal. cooling

system on sale for $35. so I bought a

couple.
Still waiting delivery - Meantime is anyone using one ?
I've read a lot of posts asking about them but haven't run accross
anything about how good/bad they work.
I'm curious about pressure - adjustable ?
If there's no pressure adjustment on the system itself and I put a
valve 'in line' what are the chances of burning out the motor ?
What about a splash guard ? Neccessary/helpful ?
TIA, Chuck U&R



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OK, if you check the posts you should see an article where I describe building and using a recirculating coolant system from some?household stuff. I built mine and have been using it from the second day of ownwership of my bandsaw. It works really well and probably cuts (no pun intended) cutting time about 50%. I assume that like mine yours will be using a centrifugal pump and if this is so putting a valve on the?discharge side of the pump to control the flow rate is a very good idea and will in no way hurt the pump. Actually?the load on the?pump is reduced with the discharge side blocked as less work is being done. I also changed to a Lenox Bi-metal blade.

Hope this helps some.

Cheers, Cletus 9Z4CLB

?

chuck_uandr wrote:

HF had the 2gal. cooling system on sale for $35. so I bought a
couple.
Still waiting delivery - Meantime is anyone using one ?
I've read a lot of posts asking about them but haven't run accross
anything about how good/bad they work.
I'm curious about pressure - adjustable ?
If there's no pressure adjustment on the system itself and I put a
valve 'in line' what are the chances of burning out the motor ?
What about a splash guard ? Neccessary/helpful ?
TIA, Chuck U&R




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the .

---

Do you Yahoo!?

HF had the 2gal. cooling system on sale for $35. so I bought a
couple.
Still waiting delivery - Meantime is anyone using one ?
I've read a lot of posts asking about them but haven't run accross
anything about how good/bad they work.
I'm curious about pressure - adjustable ?
If there's no pressure adjustment on the system itself and I put a
valve 'in line' what are the chances of burning out the motor ?
What about a splash guard ? Neccessary/helpful ?
TIA, Chuck U&R

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "way2phastphil"
<way2phastphil@n...> wrote:

On the list to do: slip roll, Englsh Wheel (frame is almost done),
stand for metal shrinker/stretcher,

Perhaps you read the MetalMeet Forum?



Paul R

You wrote:
"What are you making with 2" steel ?"

I wrote that post with sorta "tongue in cheek".

However, here is what I have done with my saw.

Cut 4" x 4" square steel tubing (3/16" walls) for my neighbor's travel
trailer bumper.

Cut aluminum plate and bars for various projects (like to work with
aluminum)

Brass and steel bars as needed.

As for as using the saw in the vertical position, I made a game piece
out of 1/8" stainless steel plate. This "train" spinner is about 8" in
diameter, and has rectangular cut-outs around the perimeter and one in
the center. (cut-outs fit domino pieces)

This was tough, wore out a carbon steel blade doing it. (made me
appreciate bi-metal) I had no bi-metal with the teeth close enough for
the thin metal.

The one feature that I like the most is the fact that you can cut the
stock almost to the exact size. (when i used my old hacksaw, i allowed
1/8" for crooked cuts)

Leo (pearland, tx)