It's good to see a group who supports the 4x6 bandsaws. I chuckle
everytime I see someone comment about how they are junk, and so
forth. Mine is a Buffalo brand and looks identical to the one at the
HF retail store. They may be "cheap", and "won't last", but I bought
mine in 1987 and have used it regularly for 16 years! Still works
great!

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003, johnrunchey wrote:

Well I just bought one of these P.O.S. saws from harbor freight on the
spur of the moment the other day, on sale for $149.

I can say after only 3 cuts this is the best money I've ever spent! As
the new owner of a clausing mill and a yet-to-arrive south bend lathe,
I plan on getting plenty of use out of this thing. And no hacksaw
blisters!

The funny thing is that everyone who buys one of these saws says exactly
the same thing!
When I got mine the first things I thought were, "Man this thing is really
crude, and the legs are kinda scary". But after I got it setup and I made
the first cut I realized the value of the thing. Had I known how useful
it would be I would have gotten one long ago.

C|

Amen to that!

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "johnrunchey" <runchman@a...>
wrote:

And no hacksaw
blisters!

- John in Illinois

Well I just bought one of these P.O.S. saws from harbor freight on the
spur of the moment the other day, on sale for $149.

I can say after only 3 cuts this is the best money I've ever spent! As
the new owner of a clausing mill and a yet-to-arrive south bend lathe,
I plan on getting plenty of use out of this thing. And no hacksaw
blisters!

- John in Illinois

Hey gang, I just posted under aametalmaster photos a block of steel I
cut 1.375 thick X 6.50 wide with a 10 tooth matrix bi-metal blade,
took about a half hour to cut.My saw has a 3/4 hp motor. Happy
cutting..Bob Wright

Dunno. I have a discontinued HF model that has no legs and was made for
under-something storage. It's strictly gravity feed - no feed springs
or automatic cutoff. I've never had a problem with its feed.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

tyrex453 wrote:

Thanks Jim....I'm gonna look into some 10tpi bi-metals.

I also got it to cut the copper bar while it was lying flat......all
I had to do was disconnect the feed spring and just let the weight of
the saw cut it. Is this normal??? or should I not be doing this???

I also wanted to let everyone know that I saw the Jet version of the
4x6 in one of my local Menards tonight. The price is pretty expensive
at 259, but they do price match. It might be worth looking into for
those that dont have a HF or grizzly locally.



--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Jim E." <jim0000@a...> wrote:

Just remember the 3 tooth touch rule, which means that you want at

least

3 teeth cutting (including at the beginning) at all times. If

you're

predominately cutting about 1" or larger and don't mind rough cuts,

a

coarser (<10 tpi) should do well. I've heard that variable pitch

is a

good compromise to switching out blades.

I run mine at the highest speed for everything, with no coolant -

Al,

ferrous, brass. But, again, it's actually running less that 1/2

per

month.

With a good blade on them, they're a good little workhorse. I have

a

Lennox blade on mine.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

Just remember the 3 tooth touch rule, which means that you want at least
3 teeth cutting (including at the beginning) at all times. If you're
predominately cutting about 1" or larger and don't mind rough cuts, a
coarser (<10 tpi) should do well. I've heard that variable pitch is a
good compromise to switching out blades.

I run mine at the highest speed for everything, with no coolant - Al,
ferrous, brass. But, again, it's actually running less that 1/2 per
month.

With a good blade on them, they're a good little workhorse. I have a
Lennox blade on mine.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

tyrex453 wrote:

Thanks for the advice all.....

I'm going to try cutting some more with the copper flat horizontally.
I'm very sure that the arm is not hitting anything. I think that
there probably wasnt enough pressure being applied to the arm.

About the motor temp., I guess I'll just run it till it dies.

Anyone have any suggestions on TPIs and cutting speeds(with flood
coolant) though??? I dont mind brazing my own, but would like some
input on what is the best for cutting thicker peices(I.E. 3"+). Also,
how do you guys feel about varible TPI blades???

Thanks again!
Andy

The motor runs quite hot, and may not last long. Any 1/2 HP motor will do as a
replacement.
Three things could keep the saw from completing its cut:
1. An adjusting bolt, about 5/16"D, vertical, on the bed between the vise and
the motor.
2. The adjustable blade guide may not be clearing the bed.
3. The motor switch cutoff stop may be set incorrectly.
Rupert

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 01:58:17 -0000
From: "tyrex453" <tyrex453@...>

Hi guys, I'm still new here, although I've been a member for a little
while. I finally got the opportunity to get to a HF store and they
price matched Homier's old price of 99 dollars.

It took me about an hour or 2 to get it all assembled and fine tuned,
but I do have a few questions....

First, I will be cutting various amounts/types of metal such as
stainless, high carbon, 6061, and copper. What TPIs would you guys
recommend? I also plan on adding a coolant system.....if I do that,
what speeds are recommended???

Second, I have been cutting 1/2"x3" copper stock. I used the slowest
speed and some cutting oil. It cuts great when I stand the bar up
vertically. However, when I place the bar flat, it stops cutting with
about 1/32" to go. The saw doesnt stop, the blade just stops cutting,
and I also have the tension in the pressure spring as low as possible
with out the I-bolt coming out of the handle. Any suggestions?

Third, I notice that the motor gets extremely hot after about 10
minutes.....If I leave the pulley cover off, it stays cooler a little
while longer, but not much. Is this normal???

All in all, it seems to be a great saw for a 100 bux though.

Thanks,
Andy

Rupert N. Evans
101 W Windsor Rd. #4107, Urbana, IL 61802-6697;
217-337-7833
Author of Book-On-Demand Publishing
I love to print and bind books and make model stationary steam engines

You wrote;

"However, when I place the bar flat, it stops cutting with
about 1/32" to go. The saw doesnt stop, the blade just stops cutting,"

On occasions when my saw stops cutting before the cutoff is complete, it
has always proved out to be some part of the swing arm is touching the
vise. (i assume when you write "the blade just stops cutting", you don't
mean it stops moving.)

Leo (pearland, tx)

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Hi guys, I'm still new here, although I've been a member for a little
while. I finally got the opportunity to get to a HF store and they
price matched Homier's old price of 99 dollars.

It took me about an hour or 2 to get it all assembled and fine tuned,
but I do have a few questions....

First, I will be cutting various amounts/types of metal such as
stainless, high carbon, 6061, and copper. What TPIs would you guys
recommend? I also plan on adding a coolant system.....if I do that,
what speeds are recommended???

Second, I have been cutting 1/2"x3" copper stock. I used the slowest
speed and some cutting oil. It cuts great when I stand the bar up
vertically. However, when I place the bar flat, it stops cutting with
about 1/32" to go. The saw doesnt stop, the blade just stops cutting,
and I also have the tension in the pressure spring as low as possible
with out the I-bolt coming out of the handle. Any suggestions?

Third, I notice that the motor gets extremely hot after about 10
minutes.....If I leave the pulley cover off, it stays cooler a little
while longer, but not much. Is this normal???

All in all, it seems to be a great saw for a 100 bux though.

Thanks,
Andy

Hi group, We used to break in our big Marvel saw by cutting some
thick metal at a reduced feed rate, I never saw any difference but
thats what the boss wanted...Bob
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., r-evans4 <r-evans4@s...> wrote:

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 16:17:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Brown <jagco1998@y...>

---snip--->

The key in accuracy , and longivity in cutting is using good

quality bimetal

blades and a proper blade break in procedure.
---snip--->

What is the "proper blade break in procedure?" I have been using

power saws

for years, and this is news to me. I assume that you mean more than

properly

seating the blade and adjusting its tension its runout.
rupert

Rupert N. Evans
101 W Windsor Rd. #4107, Urbana, IL 61802-6697;
217-337-7833
Author of Book-On-Demand Publishing
I love to print and bind books and make model stationary steam

engines

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 16:17:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Brown <jagco1998@...>

---snip--->

The key in accuracy , and longivity in cutting is using good quality bimetal

blades and a proper blade break in procedure.
---snip--->

What is the "proper blade break in procedure?" I have been using power saws
for years, and this is news to me. I assume that you mean more than properly
seating the blade and adjusting its tension its runout.
rupert

Rupert N. Evans
101 W Windsor Rd. #4107, Urbana, IL 61802-6697;
217-337-7833
Author of Book-On-Demand Publishing
I love to print and bind books and make model stationary steam engines

Hi all,

I was very happy/surprised to find that this group exists!

I am getting ready to purchase a metal cutting band saw, and am willing to
spend up to $500 or so. I have been wavering between buying one of the cheap
4X6 saws or the somewhat more expensive 6 X 10 saws, and could use some
advice from people who already own these saws.

My primary needs are versatility, accuracy, and quality construction -- I'd
like to buy a decent tool that will serve me well for a number of small
fabrication projects. I'd also like a tool that will last me for years. I
don't have any one project in mind for this tool, but I have been wanting to
add a metal cutting band saw to my tool crib for some time.

I am considering the following saws:

The Grizzly G1010 and it's many counterparts: the classic 4x6 saw, although
I understand there are differences between the various incarnations of this
tool. What separates the good version from the not-as-good versions?? Do
certain brands/models use cast parts as opposed to stamped steel? Do any of
the 4X6 saws stand out as "the best"?

The Grizzly G9742: Same saw head as the 1010 but with a more versatile base,
capable of cutting up to 60 with easier setup (or so the description says).
Has anyone on the list used one of these? The biggest drawback seems to be
that it isn't capable of vertical operation, but I don't know how often one
needs to operate the saw vertically.

The Grizzly G4030: A horizontal/vertical 6X10 saw with a rolling base,
coolant pump, etc. At $499 + shipping this is at the top of what I want to
spend on this tool, but it does seem to have a lot of features for the
money. Anyone have one of these (or something similar)?

I know Grizzly isn't the only source for these saws, but these seem like
three representative examples.

Thanks for whatever opinions/experience you can share!

Jeff Moskovitz




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Bob and Ralph,

Thanks very much for your opinions. From what you’ve said and what I’ve read, these saws benefit greatly from additional stiffening and from replacing the sheet metal table with a thicker table. I’ve read through Frank Hoose’s 4X6 metal band saw page (http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#bandsaw) and your comments match those on his page.

I guess I’m still on the fence as to whether this saw is “enough” saw for me, and whether, after one takes the modifications into account, I would ?be better off with this saw or a larger, perhaps sturdier saw. I do get the sense that these saws are an excellent value for what they are and with tuning can become accurate tools, so maybe I’m just stuck with a case of tool lust ;-)

Anyway, thanks again for sharing your opinions.

Final question: how are the saw’s jaws for clamping work and holding stock for angled cuts? Are they difficult to setup? (I ask this with that Grizzly 60° capable saw head in mind...)

Thanks again,

Jeff

Hi Jeff, All the saws seem to come from the same china factory. There
are some motor size differences, big 3/4 hp or smaller, 2 frames
also, one with cast arms, and one with stamped steel arms (my
preference) I have 2 of them. I use mine for production cutting every
day. No problems after 3 years use, cuts straight as an arrow. Just
use a quality blade, I use a 10 tooth bimetal matrix on most metals.
And a 14 tooth carbon blade for my small steel tubing..Cut on...Bob
Wright
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., Jeff Moskovitz <mosk@a...> wrote:

Hi all,

I was very happy/surprised to find that this group exists!

I am getting ready to purchase a metal cutting band saw, and am

willing to

spend up to $500 or so. I have been wavering between buying one of

the cheap

4X6 saws or the somewhat more expensive 6 X 10 saws, and could use

some

advice from people who already own these saws.

My primary needs are versatility, accuracy, and quality

construction -- I'd

like to buy a decent tool that will serve me well for a number of

small

fabrication projects. I'd also like a tool that will last me for

years. I

don't have any one project in mind for this tool, but I have been

wanting to

add a metal cutting band saw to my tool crib for some time.

I am considering the following saws:

The Grizzly G1010 and it's many counterparts: the classic 4x6 saw,

although

I understand there are differences between the various incarnations

of this

tool. What separates the good version from the not-as-good

versions?? Do

certain brands/models use cast parts as opposed to stamped steel?

Do any of

the 4X6 saws stand out as "the best"?

The Grizzly G9742: Same saw head as the 1010 but with a more

versatile base,

capable of cutting up to 60° with easier setup (or so the

description says).

Has anyone on the list used one of these? The biggest drawback

seems to be

that it isn't capable of vertical operation, but I don't know how

often one

needs to operate the saw vertically.

The Grizzly G4030: A horizontal/vertical 6X10 saw with a rolling

base,

coolant pump, etc. At $499 + shipping this is at the top of what I

want to

spend on this tool, but it does seem to have a lot of features for

the

money. Anyone have one of these (or something similar)?

I know Grizzly isn't the only source for these saws, but these seem

like

three representative examples.

Thanks for whatever opinions/experience you can share!

Jeff Moskovitz

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