开云体育

---

Do you Yahoo!?
- Faster. Easier. Bingo.

开云体育

---

Do you Yahoo!?
- Faster. Easier. Bingo.

Cletus,

What is the "Lennox Diemaster 2"?

...and congrats on the find!

Regards,
Wayne / AA9DY
Grayslake, IL

--- "Cletus L. Berkeley" <cberkeley@...> wrote:

WARNING: This electronic mail (E-mail) document may contain privileged information?intended for?the named recipient(s) only. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and subsequently destroy the document/file. Unlawful copying and/or dissemination of the information/data contained herein may be treated as copyright infringement and prosecuted as such.

---

Do you Yahoo!?
- Faster. Easier. Bingo.

Thanks for putting up the pics.

For other owners of my saw, however, I wonder if it orignally came
with a cutoff mechanism for the switch. There is no evidence of this,
except for the location of the switch. There is no sign of mounting
holes for a suitable actuator for the switch.

Lynn Kasdorf

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "BOB WRIGHT" <aametalmaster@y...>
wrote:

Hi, Ijust put some pics under aametalmaster in photos. #2 is the
switch bracket. #1 is a mod i use to quick cut 45 degree angles,

just

tap the bed 3/8" and put in a bolt, put on the edge of the 45 deg
line, works quick for cutting. Bob

Hi, Ijust put some pics under aametalmaster in photos. #2 is the
switch bracket. #1 is a mod i use to quick cut 45 degree angles, just
tap the bed 3/8" and put in a bolt, put on the edge of the 45 deg
line, works quick for cutting. Bob

Hi,

It's been awhile but I seem to remember the saw was setup so when it
finished the cut, the saw would hit the switch off. Check the Sears
diagram to see if you are missing a part that would do this.

I do know that the Craftsman power hacksaw came in a number of
versions....one of which did not have the auto shutoff feature.
Perhaps the bandsaw went through a similar upgrade.

Adding a second switch is always a good idea. A failsafe switch is
worth the one time that you will need it whether it is ten minutes or
ten years from now. I know a number of people who have fewer than ten
fingers who would agree.

Too_Many_Tools


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "lkasdorf" <lkasdorf@s...> wrote:

I'm starting a new thread on this saw, as my original got pretty
fragmented.

I ordered a starrett 60" blade from MSC and it fits and runs great.
Interestingly, I looked carefully for their weld, just to see how
nicely they do it. I never found it! I guess they finish their

welds

pretty well!

When I can find a good deal on blade stock I plan to braze or weld

my

own blades. But given the low volume of work that I expect this saw
to see, this blade should last a while...

Covel, eh? I know that the Craftsman lathes with model numbers
starting with 101. were made by Atlas, I would have thought this

was

as well.

re lubing the gears- I currently have grease on them, but am

thinking

of cleaning that off and switching to a dry moly or graphite lube
that won't attract chips. Then I could clean the gear with

compressed

air and shoot more dry lube on periodically.

Regarding the power switch- mine has a simple toggle switch, placed
where one could envision it being used for auto shutoff. However,
there is no evidence of this, and the moving part of the saw

doesn't

come close to hitting the switch. I would expect some sort of

bracket

that strikes the switch handle, but none is present, and no holes

for

one.

So, I'm confused about what this saw had originally. The location

of

the power switch is hideously dangerous, and the only reason to

place

it there would be for autoshutoff, but there is no evidence that

this

ever existed on this saw.

I plan to mount a 2nd power switch on the cabinet somewhere, and

rig

up an adjustable arm that will hit the switch at the end of the cut
shut off the saw.

HI, MINE HAS A LITTLE PIECE OF METAL THAT IS ADJUSTABLE TO HIT THE
SWITCH. I HAVE IT SET SO THE SAW JUST FINISHES THE CUT THEN SHUTS
OFF. I HAVE A BRAND NEW ROLL OF BLADE STOCK IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED,
CAN SEND PICS...BOB

I'm starting a new thread on this saw, as my original got pretty
fragmented.

I ordered a starrett 60" blade from MSC and it fits and runs great.
Interestingly, I looked carefully for their weld, just to see how
nicely they do it. I never found it! I guess they finish their welds
pretty well!

When I can find a good deal on blade stock I plan to braze or weld my
own blades. But given the low volume of work that I expect this saw
to see, this blade should last a while...

Covel, eh? I know that the Craftsman lathes with model numbers
starting with 101. were made by Atlas, I would have thought this was
as well.

re lubing the gears- I currently have grease on them, but am thinking
of cleaning that off and switching to a dry moly or graphite lube
that won't attract chips. Then I could clean the gear with compressed
air and shoot more dry lube on periodically.

Regarding the power switch- mine has a simple toggle switch, placed
where one could envision it being used for auto shutoff. However,
there is no evidence of this, and the moving part of the saw doesn't
come close to hitting the switch. I would expect some sort of bracket
that strikes the switch handle, but none is present, and no holes for
one.

So, I'm confused about what this saw had originally. The location of
the power switch is hideously dangerous, and the only reason to place
it there would be for autoshutoff, but there is no evidence that this
ever existed on this saw.

I plan to mount a 2nd power switch on the cabinet somewhere, and rig
up an adjustable arm that will hit the switch at the end of the cut
shut off the saw.

ONLINE SAW BLADES www.countrysaw.com BOB

J&L will weld any length of blade. I had to get blades for my version
of the 4x6 custom made. It was pricy ($17/blade, mininum $50 order)
when I did it (this was about 5 years ago), but I still have the 3
blades.

Graciously,
Jim
Lakewood, CA
All Hail Rube Goldberg!

too_many_tools wrote:

Hi,

<snip>

I seem to remember that the saw blade is not a typical length that
you find these days. This means is that you get to learn the fine art
of welding blades.

Hi,

In reference to your saw, I had researched it earlier.

It was built for Sears by Covel I believe. If you compare the bandsaw
to the Covel power hacksaw that Sears sold, you will see several
common parts between the saws.

Next the good news...

If you input the model number in the Sears parts database, you will
get a diagram and parts breakdown.

Especially nice to have if you are like me and will tear the machine
down to paint, lube and do whatever rebuilding is necessary. Ever
notice how you end up with some extra parts when you put something
back together...yeah, so do I. ;<)

Constructionwise it is as you have noted, well built. Covel did a
nice job of designing their products (they are long gone as a
company).

Now the bad news....

Most of those lovely parts that Sears shows are not available
anymore. The ones that do exist are priced well above what you will
deem sane. This raises the point that you want to treat the saw with
loving care or you will soon have a $50 paperweight.

I seem to remember that the saw blade is not a typical length that
you find these days. This means is that you get to learn the fine art
of welding blades.

As you have noted, the drive system is different from the Asian saws
that we all see. Bearing that no parts are available or are extremely
expensive, it would be prudent to keep those gears well lubed since
that will be the point of highest wear.

Good luck with the saw, I think you will find it an useful addition
to your growing tool collection.

Too_Many_Tools


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., 1erful@m... wrote:

The "Craftsman Commercial" was a line of tools that Sears marketed

for

awhile. They were supposed to be a heavier duty tool that was

priced down

near the "Home Duty" by leaving out some of the "Glitter" such as

more

polished parts and other "Eye Candy" that didn't contribute to the

longer

life and strength of the tool. I was buying tools during that time

and many

of mine are the "Craftsman Commercial" line. For an example one of

my tools

has the more expensive roller bearings in place of bushings but the

aluminum

castings have a brushed finish as compared to the polished finish

on the

lesser tool.
It sounds to me that tou have a very soundly designed saw and with

a little

work you will be able to identify the weaker points and cure what

needs to

be cured and keep an eye on the others.
As for blades, I would go to a good saw shop had have them make

your blades.

I was thinking of getting a fixture and making my own blades but

when I went

to one of my local saw shops I found that the pay back time was so

far in

the future that it would have been a waste of time and money. I

agree that

the bi-metal blades are the way to go.
WALT WARREN


----- Original Message -----
Wrom: DULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJGDGVCJVTL
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 6:59 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: greetings! Craftsman 4x6 for $50...any

good?

It is a 101.2290. I think this means it was made by Atlas for

Sears.

The weak link in this design, as I see it, is that the drive

gearing

is exposed, and just begging for chips to lodge in the teeth!

At the moment, it has a problem where at one part of the rotation

of

the drive wheel, the gearing feels rough. When running, you hear a
groan sound once per revolution. I have greased the gears and

oiled

everything I can see. I think it is possible that the drive wheel

is

a little warped. The roughness is what you feel when gears are too
close- the teeth penetrate too far. It is possible that a chip is
lodged in a tooth somewhere also, although i did clean the teeth
pretty well. I'm sure a chip could embed itself in the ding-dang
Zamak metal..

I'm trying to figure out a way to slightly move the small drive

gear

outboard slightly, thus providing a bit more clearance. I've not
found a way to do this yet.

Other than this design peculiarity, it is an extremely well made

saw.

Everything is cast iron. There is a very nice precision hydraulic
lowering control that works great. All the knobs and hardware are

top

notch.

If I can get these gears to run quietly, I think it will be a good
saw, but I'll have to be careful to blow chips out of the gearing
ffrequently. I'm thinking of using a dry gear lube like dry moly
spray, or graphite, rather than chip-attracting grease.

Thanks
Lynn Kasdorf


--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "walter warren" <1erful@m...>
wrote:

DO you have a model number? This would help in identifing the

machine.

WALT


----- Original Message -----
Wrom: BXFGGMEPYOQKEDOTWFAOBUZXUW
To: <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 7:25 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] greetings! Craftsman 4x6 for $50...any

good?

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman startionary

horizontal

band saw for $50. From his description, it sounds like

roughly a

4x6

capacity.

Are these craftsman saws any good? I have to think they will

be at

least as well made as an HF unit...

I just need something for misc steel fabrication- cutting bar

stock,

angle iron, tubing, etc. I find my abrasive chop saw's

efficiency

drops radically on solid stock of 1/2" thick or more. It is

great

for

tubing, though.

I've never used a hor metal cutting band saw, so I'm hoping

that I

can't go too far wrong for $50.



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Where is a good online source for bimetal blades, made to size? I
have found a few, but maybe somebody has a favorite place. I need
1/2" x 60" blades for my Craftsman 101.2290.

Thanks
Lynn Kasdorf

I think Don said, or meant to say, that the Nikota stand, which can
be seen at that website, is on sale at Kragen Auto Parts. Jeff

--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Stephen Barmash" <s.barmash@w...>
wrote:

I can't find any $15 Niko Workbench at that site.

Steve Barmash

JONNY: WAY TO GO!! WALT

Does anybody know anything about this new benchtop bandsaw?

Steve Barmash



&rd=1

Yesterday, I "bought myself a project", as SWMBO says. A Buffalo
bandsaw for $20 at the flea market. Cast iron body, 3-speed belt
drive, gearing looks good, 3/4 hp single phase Taiwan motor that
actually runs, and less than 30 pounds of accumulated rust. The vise-
screw is a bit tight [surface rust] but a bit of wirebrush and
machine-oil will put it right.

It had a $100 tag on it; as I was looking it over and wondering who
would be fool enough to spend that for it, the lady-in-charge
strolled over and said "Fifty bucks and it's yours!"

"Well," sez I, "Why a half-off before I even say a word?"

"Cuz I'm tired of looking at it and even tireder of the guy it
belongs to."

So, I plugged it in, already turned on, and the motor, gearing and
bull wheel ran very nicely and quietly. I had already spun the idler
and it had no play and it spun and spun......and spun.....and
spun.....so nicely balanced I could hardly believe it.

So, I turned it off and the house-circuitbreaker tripped!! "Wow,"
thinks I aloud, " a $50 bench-fee, plus repairs. I'll offer $20"
[since at worst the cast iron and motor will serve as base-weight in
my mill-drill and the matched pair of 3-step belt pulleys will find a
home somewhere, as well as the worm&spur assy.]

"I'll have to make a call." she replies.

Two minutes later: "It's yours, big fella."

Thought about it a bit on the way home, and realized that if the
motor was the problem, it sould have shorted when it came ON, not
when it was turned OFF. Sure enough, a $2 switch fixed it up. Now, to
find a blade source, locally, I hope, LOL.

Johnny (owner of a perfect pair of rose-colored glasses)

I can't find any $15 Niko Workbench at that site.

Steve Barmash