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more efficient cutting
S. Foo <[email protected]>
I've been having opportunity to cut a variety of materials lately,
and have found that the high speed of the saw with a bi-metal blade can cut steel (low carbon or small chunks of O1), brass, and aluminum with no visible ill-effects. Also...since I haven't gotten my motor replaced or fixed or anything, and I'm still having to add weight to the saw to cut less bumpily, I used a dumbell with threaded collars and hooked it onto the hand guard. I added a 2.5# plate to it, and the blade is contacting both rear bearings now while cutting. Looks odd, but works well. |
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Re: I'm new
Rex Smith
cool; I bought a new capacitor for $6.25, put it in and it worked. I'm back up and running again. Now I can begin to readdress getting it to cut straight.
rex ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Rex Smith" <rex@...> Reply-To: 4x6bandsaw@... To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 08:20:52 -0800 Today I'm going to get a new starting capacitor and try it. When I turned on the motor last night it hummed. I gave the pulley a little nudge and the motor took off. I'm thinking the capacitor may have opened up from all the heat. The paraffin from the capacitor housing puddled on the floor during the episode. There must be a thermal cutout in the motor because the same night I 'burned it up', it didn't even hum when i turned it on afterward. I'll let you know if that solves the problem. If not, I'll buy a new motor. I have my eye on the Grizzly G2901 for $69.95. (I think I mentioned before that Jet wanted $240 for a replacement motor; more than I paid for the saw) The information I've gotten off this list is awesome. I was going to go out and buy a much more expensive saw, but now I'm motivated to make a good one out of mine. :-) rex ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Ralph Meiser <rmeiser@...>" <rmeiser@...> Reply-To: 4x6bandsaw@... To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:20:08 -0000 --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote: > At this point, I do need to buy a new saw because I burned the motor on my > Jet last week. Check Tractor Supply Co (TSC) They carry reasonably priced replacement motors that will work. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* |
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Re: I'm new
Rex Smith
Today I'm going to get a new starting capacitor and try it. When I turned on the motor last night it hummed. I gave the pulley a little nudge and the motor took off. I'm thinking the capacitor may have opened up from all the heat. The paraffin from the capacitor housing puddled on the floor during the episode.
There must be a thermal cutout in the motor because the same night I 'burned it up', it didn't even hum when i turned it on afterward. I'll let you know if that solves the problem. If not, I'll buy a new motor. I have my eye on the Grizzly G2901 for $69.95. (I think I mentioned before that Jet wanted $240 for a replacement motor; more than I paid for the saw) The information I've gotten off this list is awesome. I was going to go out and buy a much more expensive saw, but now I'm motivated to make a good one out of mine. :-) rex ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Ralph Meiser <rmeiser@...>" <rmeiser@...> Reply-To: 4x6bandsaw@... To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:20:08 -0000 --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote: At this point, I do need to buy a new saw because I burned themotor on my Jet last week.Check Tractor Supply Co (TSC) They carry reasonably priced replacement motors that will work. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* |
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Re: I'm new
Ralph Meiser <[email protected]>
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote:
At this point, I do need to buy a new saw because I burned themotor on my Jet last week.Check Tractor Supply Co (TSC) They carry reasonably priced replacement motors that will work. |
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Re: I'm new
Ralph Meiser <[email protected]>
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote:
but there does seem to be an interaction betweenRex, Get the tension set as tight as possible and see if that cures your tracking problem on the wheels. Tighten it as tight as possible, run it a few seconds and tighten it again. I seem to remember when I first got mine that there was a bolt that was a thread or so too long on the tensioner. That caused a misalignment problem with the upper wheel when the tensioner was tightened down. If you continue to have problems check to see the axles are correctly mounted and are tight. Mine is not a Jet, I picked it up when J&L was downsizing. Basically all these saws are the same, although Jet is purported to have better quality. |
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Re: I'm new
Not the same... but similar. One version has cast iron blade guides that
fit internal to the upper frame. The other has pressed steel guides that mount external. The ones with internal guides have a heavier frame. Some of the saws are made in Taiwan and others are made in mainland China. Quality most likely varies from make to make. One warning that I've read about is to make sure all casting sand is removed from the worm gear drive box. I have one made in Taiwan with the cast iron guides. It does excellent cuts. Bimetal blades have it all over the carbon steel ones. I would suggest that you check with local appliance repair stores about obtaining a good used 1/3 h.p. induction motor. The starting load is not great, so even a split-phase would suffice. You would have to know the shaft diameter and length, as well as the motor length and mounting, etc. Leo (pearland, tx) |
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Re: I'm new
Jim E.
Mine engages the bottom rollers only about 3/4, also, but it affects
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nothing. I empathize about changing the blade - the fact it's short and offset about 45 degrees from the drive wheels always makes it a fun project. I have an older, discontinued version from HF, and it doesn't cut straight, either. I think it's slop in the rotational basis of the saw. I found that if I apply side tension using a bungee cord wrapped around the tension adjusting knob I can get a straight cut. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Rex Smith wrote:
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Re: I'm new
Rex Smith
At this point, I do need to buy a new saw because I burned the motor on my Jet last week. <confession of stupidity...I was sawing a 2x4 channel and left it sawing while going to the hardware store. The channel became loose in the vise, bound the blade, and when I got back there was a shop full of smoke and a burned out motor>
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Turns out it costs more to buy a replacement motor than to buy a new saw. Which brings me to the following question; If I were to buy a new 4x6 bandsaw; which one? Grizzly has one for $199. Are they all the same? They look like it. After looking at several of them, it seems like there's one manufacturer that everyone OEMs from. thanks, rex ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Sci Fi Guy" <eagletwo@...> To: <rex@...> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 23:58:54 -0600 Rex, I have a HF. I changed the blade to a Bi-Metal one from Grizzly and there were no more tracking and blade coming off problems. Apparently these blades need to run in a bit too, find the groove... Barry ( Novice too :) ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex Smith" <> To: <4x6bandsaw@...> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 10:05 PM Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new : What I mean by the laborious process is that the blade won't stay on the : wheel when I put it on because different amounts of tension seem to change : the tracking. I end up having to adjust tracking and tension to get the : right combination that will make the blade stay on. Even so, it won't go : all the way on the bottom wheel. I admit I'm very new to this so I could be : doing something wrong, but there does seem to be an interaction between : blade tracking and blade tension on my saw. : What you say is encouraging about the straight cut. Do you have a Jet? : : rex : : : : : : : ----Original Message Follows---- : From: "Ralph Meiser <rmeiser@...>" <rmeiser@...> : Reply-To: 4x6bandsaw@... : To: 4x6bandsaw@... : Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new : Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 00:34:28 -0000 : : --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote: : I can't get the blade to cut straight : > vertically no matter how much adjusting I do. : : Rex, : Sounds like you need to adjust the guide bearings to get the tracking : correct. Only one bearing in each set is mounted on an eccentric. : Refer to the manual and follow the instructions there. If you can't : find your manual, there is a pdf file in the files section of this : site. The section you want is on page 15. Once they are set, they : seem to hold their setting. For tension, I have found and others seem : to agree that you can't get get the blade too tight. : : I don't understand what you mean about the laborious process of : changing the blade. It takes me less than 5 min to do a switch. After : opening the guard you release the tension, remove the blade, thread : in the new one and tension it. I have found that the Lennox die : master II blades which cost about $20 at MSC or J&L last forever.and : cut steel and aluminum well. : : As for performance, mine will cut a slice off a 2"x2" piece of HR : steel within .015 of parrallel corner to corner. : : : To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: : 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... : : : : Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to : : : _________________________________________________________________ : The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* : : : : To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: : 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... : : : : Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to : : _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. |
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Re: Digest Number 81
Rex,
I bought a HF because it was on sale - $161.00 incl tax. They all seem to be the same, just painted different colors. I was cutting a couple of light angles and? got a bind which caused the blade to jump the track. I stopped the saw and repositioned the blade which when it would stay on track would cut for about 3 seconds before jumping again. I bought a Kennametal bi-metal blade and have had zero problems since. |
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Re: I'm new
Rex Smith
What I mean by the laborious process is that the blade won't stay on the wheel when I put it on because different amounts of tension seem to change the tracking. I end up having to adjust tracking and tension to get the right combination that will make the blade stay on. Even so, it won't go all the way on the bottom wheel. I admit I'm very new to this so I could be doing something wrong, but there does seem to be an interaction between blade tracking and blade tension on my saw.
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What you say is encouraging about the straight cut. Do you have a Jet? rex ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Ralph Meiser <rmeiser@...>" <rmeiser@...> Reply-To: 4x6bandsaw@... To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 00:34:28 -0000 --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote:
I can't get the blade to cut straight vertically no matter how much adjusting I do.Rex, Sounds like you need to adjust the guide bearings to get the tracking correct. Only one bearing in each set is mounted on an eccentric. Refer to the manual and follow the instructions there. If you can't find your manual, there is a pdf file in the files section of this site. The section you want is on page 15. Once they are set, they seem to hold their setting. For tension, I have found and others seem to agree that you can't get get the blade too tight. I don't understand what you mean about the laborious process of changing the blade. It takes me less than 5 min to do a switch. After opening the guard you release the tension, remove the blade, thread in the new one and tension it. I have found that the Lennox die master II blades which cost about $20 at MSC or J&L last forever.and cut steel and aluminum well. As for performance, mine will cut a slice off a 2"x2" piece of HR steel within .015 of parrallel corner to corner. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* |
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Re: I'm new
Ralph Meiser <[email protected]>
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote:
I can't get the blade to cut straight vertically no matter how much adjusting I do.Rex, Sounds like you need to adjust the guide bearings to get the tracking correct. Only one bearing in each set is mounted on an eccentric. Refer to the manual and follow the instructions there. If you can't find your manual, there is a pdf file in the files section of this site. The section you want is on page 15. Once they are set, they seem to hold their setting. For tension, I have found and others seem to agree that you can't get get the blade too tight. I don't understand what you mean about the laborious process of changing the blade. It takes me less than 5 min to do a switch. After opening the guard you release the tension, remove the blade, thread in the new one and tension it. I have found that the Lennox die master II blades which cost about $20 at MSC or J&L last forever.and cut steel and aluminum well. As for performance, mine will cut a slice off a 2"x2" piece of HR steel within .015 of parrallel corner to corner. |
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Re: I'm new
rex
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAny opinions on the Grizzly 4x6 saw? ? -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne L. Wagner, Jr. [mailto:AA9DY@...] Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2003 3:59 PM To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new ? HF = Harbor Freight. ?Can be found at: ?www.harborfreight.com What's the HF brand?? not sure I've heard of that one. ? |
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Re: I'm new
Wayne L. Wagner, Jr.
HF = Harbor Freight. ?Can be found at: ?www.harborfreight.com
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Regards, Wayne Rex Smith wrote: What's the HF brand?? not sure I've heard of that one. |
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Re: I'm new
Rex Smith
What's the HF brand? not sure I've heard of that one.
----Original Message Follows---- From: "Dennis OBerry <yrfavsob@...>" <yrfavsob@...> Reply-To: 4x6bandsaw@... To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: I'm new Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 22:12:43 -0000 --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote: Hi,bandsaw and am so far very unimpressed. I can't get the blade to cut straightthe blade to track well on both rollers. On the top roller, it tracks allthe way on, but on the bottom it will only go on about 3/4 of the way. Thetracking adjustment is interactive with the tightness adjustment, so it's along iterative procedure to change the blade.moved recently and I can't locate my proof of purchase. It costs more tobuy a new motor from Jet than it does to buy the $199 4x6 Grizzlybandsaw. Is the Grizzly any better than the Jet?Rex, This is my first post also. I bought an HF 4X6 and having read what various groups have written, built a stand with two casters on one end replacing the very flimsy sheetmetal ones provided. I cut a couple of pieces of metal then the blade jumped off the track and would never stay on. I then followed the second piece of advice and bought a good quality bi-metal blade - no more tracking/cutting problems.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* |
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Re: I'm new
Dennis OBerry <[email protected]>
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "Rex Smith" <rex@h...> wrote:
Hi,bandsaw and am so far very unimpressed. I can't get the blade to cut straightthe blade to track well on both rollers. On the top roller, it tracks allthe way on, but on the bottom it will only go on about 3/4 of the way. Thetracking adjustment is interactive with the tightness adjustment, so it's along iterative procedure to change the blade.moved recently and I can't locate my proof of purchase. It costs more tobuy a new motor from Jet than it does to buy the $199 4x6 Grizzlybandsaw. Is the Grizzly any better than the Jet?Rex, This is my first post also. I bought an HF 4X6 and having read what various groups have written, built a stand with two casters on one end replacing the very flimsy sheetmetal ones provided. I cut a couple of pieces of metal then the blade jumped off the track and would never stay on. I then followed the second piece of advice and bought a good quality bi-metal blade - no more tracking/cutting problems.
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I'm new
Rex Smith
Hi,
I'm posting for the first time to this group. I have a 4x6 Jet bandsaw and am so far very unimpressed. I can't get the blade to cut straight vertically no matter how much adjusting I do. Also, I can't get the blade to track well on both rollers. On the top roller, it tracks all the way on, but on the bottom it will only go on about 3/4 of the way. The tracking adjustment is interactive with the tightness adjustment, so it's a long iterative procedure to change the blade. Any clues about how to deal with these issues? Oh, and the motor burned up on it. It's still on warranty but we moved recently and I can't locate my proof of purchase. It costs more to buy a new motor from Jet than it does to buy the $199 4x6 Grizzly bandsaw. Is the Grizzly any better than the Jet? Looking forward to a discussion on this one. thanks, rex _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* |
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Re: New Photos Added
S. Foo <[email protected]>
Any pics in particular? There were a bunch on that page of different
saws. --- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "swinz1971 <paul@s...>" <paul@s...> wrote: 3 photos of my Warco 4 1/2" bandsaw available in the UK to see more |
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New Photos Added
swinz1971 <[email protected]>
3 photos of my Warco 4 1/2" bandsaw available in the UK to see more
go to www.warco.co.uk |
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Re: Bandsaw blade welding - Homier bandsaw
--- In 4x6bandsaw@..., "rsnyder187 <rsnyder187@y...>"
<rsnyder187@y...> wrote: Paul,start on the first cold start. After the first start it worked fine. Itthe high speed anyways so I haven't done anything about it. The motorbar. Most of the stuff I do is 1/2" or less.cheap Homier and HF ones which seem OK.Thanks for the insight, Bob. It is a great deal, as long as the truck has one, when the sale is in town. I have heard that the S&H can make the Homier more expensive than the HF unit. Paul |
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