On Tue, Jun 1, 2021 at 12:13 PM, Leon Robinson wrote:

Sitting on the power switch looks awkward. ?A switch mounted near the upper wheel would be more convenient and safer.

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If I used it every day I'd move the switch but with occasional us I don't mind where it is.?

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Leon Robinson ?K5JLR

On Tue, May 25, 2021 at 09:39 AM, Kristopher Lyle wrote:

Does anyone in the group sell the tables and/or other accessories for the saws?? Not sure it matters, but I have the Jet 4x6.? thanks! Kris?

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Here's a table I made. It's fast and easy to switch over. However, my saw came with a table that mounted to the blade guides. It was time consuming to change over but if your saw has the same mounting holes you can mount a 2" x 4" x 1/8" thick plate to the guides and just leave it. Most often this is big enough.

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https://youtu.be/yGUw2kuweQk

I have some many projects going on, that the last thing I want to do right now is make a table.? That said, I would love to have one and it would be a big help for all my other projects that I have going on.? Does anyone in the group sell the tables and/or other accessories for the saws?? Not sure it matters, but I have the Jet 4x6.? thanks! Kris?

Hi Kenny,

I understand about not wanting another cord. ? I rewired my saw so it has a motor starter and a duplex electrical socket on my stand. ? This allows me to plug in two items directly on my saw (in addition to the saw motor) and only have one plug in the wall. ? I have pictures loaded in the photo section.

Dave

I ordered the two up pack of the little LED lights from Amazon and I think that these are perfect for my band saw and drill press.?

sa

I can see using them on my sheet metal equipment too.? ?Thanks for the suggestions!

Dave

0.005" in 8" end to end is very accurate. Really nice work - jv

Thanks all for the ideas.? ?I think I'll try to purchase a couple of those cheap lights.? ?I was worried that the magnets wouldn't hold very well and/or that they didn't put out that much light.? It's great to see that they work well.? I really don't need anything that is water tight.? I could use a couple of these and like the idea of moving them around.

As can be seen in the photo section, I moved my saw to a Little Giant movable cart (I think they call it a mobile table).? ?I was thinking of getting one of those architect lights and fasten the base to the cart table.? ?I use my saw exclusively in the horizontal configuration.? ?The more I look at your guys saws, I think I will change my mind and go with a magnetic base light.? ?Like I said, I could use a light or two on my other equipment like my drill press, my metal punch, etc.

Dave

Well, just to tie up this thread I finally finished my project to align the table to the blade and build a fence.

I'm really pleased with how this all turned out.? The first test cut was some aluminum and on an 8" long cut the thickness of the finished piece was only off by .005" from one end to the other!?

Up till now I've just hand guided cuts along a scribed line and even trying really hard to keep it perfectly on the line, when I stick the part in my mill I always end up having to cut .025" or more to clean it up.? So this will be much better as I won't have to be so careful in keeping the stock straight through a long cut and less milling required when I'm done.

I ended up stealing some ideas posted in this thread (and in the other thread I started) and made a plate to mount to the bearing guide.? That allowed me to put in a bolt pattern for the table that was offset enough to compensate for not being able to align the blade with the original mounting hole.? I made the table with a slot and a cover to go over the slot to facilitate blade changes without removing the table and to reduce the gap around the blade itself.? I ended up taking my blade brush off the saw and modifying the bracket so it could attach to the slot cover. So now it's two nuts to pull the cover and the blade is free to come off!

I made the fence from some 80/20 and put a steel plate on the front side to keep stock from gouging up the 80/20.

Like I said, I can't be more pleased with the results and I owe it all to everyone here who offered suggestions and those who posted pictures of their ideas over the years.? Thanks so much!

I make these little flexible? LED lights and have them on all of my machines (and in various other places around the house I need a bit of light).? They're based on a 48-SMD LED 12v "festoon" panel that are designed for car interior dome light replacement. I make a plate to stick the panel to and use a mini switch and some 1/2" Loc Line tubing.? I machine a base from some aluminum and thread it for the Loc Line. I fish the wire down through the Loc Line and out the base. I usually machine the underside of the base to hold a Neodymium magnet I salvage from old hard drives but on this one for my saw I decided to just make a small bolt-on mount since I don't need to move the light more than the Loc Line will handle.? For stand alone lights I use a 12v wall wart to provide power.? For my machines I use an old PC power supply and tap into the 12v and 5v rails so I can power lights and things like my DRO setup.

Total part cost for one of these lights is under $6.

Hi Dave:

Here are Two Picture on my Saw One is Light on the other is Light off. Works Great.

EVISWIY Sewing Machine Light LED Lighting (30LEDs) 6 Watt Multifunctional Flexible Gooseneck Arm Work Lamp with Magnetic

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I'd like to get a light for my bandsaw.? ?I'm not really wanting to attach it to the saw body, for it would put more weight on the cut.? ?Can you take pictures of your saw with the light on it?? ?I think I'd like to have a light to better see my scale on the table.

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John,

Maybe this is clearer:??

Rick

Jim,

Your observation is brilliant! In this rare case, two wrongs can make a right. I built a "square" that goes on my table. It is out of square such that the blade of my square is parallel to my saw cut when the guide of the square is in contact with the front lip:


Thanks,

Rick

I think you could leave one hole where it is currently placed and locate the second hole pretty close by removing the screw, locating the table where you want it, and transfer punching through the blade guide block to the back to locate your new hole. ? If you can’t get a transfer punch in there, grind a point on a bolt and thread it through the back to mark the table. ?If the vertical orientation is permanent. Maybe use some JB weld to fill the old hole in your table.

I really haven’t thought about this too much, but try to do the simplest fix first. ?You just need to rotate your table.