Has anyone used the bi-metal blade for the 4x6 bandsaw? How did it work out? Packaging says made in USA. Cost is $29.99. I'm currently using a Lennox.
Wheeler
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
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On 4/7/2021 5:29 PM, Larry Hoelscher wrote: I only use the Bi-metal blades and I get MONTHs from them. While I don't use the bandsaw every week and I only purchased them with the 20% discount coupon(NOW GONE).? I still have 8 blades ready to go.
Larry
On Wed, Apr 7, 2021 at 5:14 PM Bill Armstrong <bill_1955@... <mailto:bill_1955@...>> wrote:
Rule: The tool that does the actual cutting, should be made in USA. ____
__ __
That includes drill bits, end mills, saw blades, whatever. I have
found that it is well worth the extra money, to get quality cutting
tools. ____
__ __
Lenox, is a good choice.
__ __
Other Bill____
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*From:*[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
[mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>] *On
Behalf Of *Dave Seiter
*Sent:* Wednesday, April 07, 2021 2:24 PM
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* [4x6bandsaw] Bad blade from HF?____
__ __
So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long
cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade
(HF) it also behaved oddly, but settled and cut really straight. The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is
highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings,
just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a
difference while cutting. Are some HF blades bad from the git-go? ____
__ __
-Dave____
I quit using HF blades a long time ago ... I buy my blades from www.lacuttingproducts.com now , great blades and reasonable prices . Use code MAGLAS for a 10% discount . Every blade failure I've had with their products is because I did something stupid ... -- Snag In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns. We shot them.
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Hi Dave A blade pretty much cuts in the direction the blade body is pointing. If it cuts to one side then the blade body probably is pointing to that side UNLESS the teeth are damaged, the undamaged side cuts when the damaged side doesn't cut so quickly and so it veers off to the side?with?the sharper teeth. With an identical setup to a blade that cut well from new in the past and that you hadn't adusted?the angle of the blade body recently, I'd suspect the new blade is damaged on one side.??
Replacing a side guide roller CAN upset the direction the blade body points, if you change the clearance between the blade and side guide rollers when doing so.? The type of adjusters that do this, are the ones where you have to release the eccentric shaft to change to the bearing.? The ones with a circlip to retain the bearing on its shaft are not affected. This happens because the?blade?is being twisted by the guide assemblies, so it slants across the gap between the 2 rollers.? Wider gap = more slant, and blade cuts away from the vice. Manuals call for zero to 0.001" clearance, i.e. 25-26thou" gap between rollers.? Set the gap with feeler gauges not the blade if you can. John Pitkin advised about 0.007" gap to stop swarf from shock-load destroying the bearings esp. if you are?using cutting fluid which makes swarf stick to the blade, carrying?it into the roller-to-blade nip.? I set mine 0.001" and use a blade scraper, and believe this is the best setting if you don't use lube when cutting steel.? (aluminium is too soft to damage?the bearings) Question: Did you change the bearing before or after trying the new blade?? If it cut at a slant before you changed the bearing, and you hadn't adjusted for damage recently, then you can be pretty sure the blade is at fault, though I'd have to say it is unusual for a new blade to act this way as blade-making is pretty sophisticated these days and welding and weld-flash grinding faults are about the only things I've come across, even for supposedly poorer quality blades. If you changed the roller before trying the new blade and it's of the type described then check that first.?? One last thought - it could be that your roller gap was larger and the saw set up to cut square like that, and after changing the bearing you are now running a tighter gap, in which case the blade will cut toward the?vice.?Check the gap on the guide assembly you didn't touch, to see what that is.? It may be an indicator - jv ?
On Thu, Apr 8, 2021 at 9:24 AM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote: So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it also behaved oddly, but settled and cut really straight.? The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a difference while cutting.? Are some HF blades bad from the git-go??
-Dave
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I use Lenox blades. They aren't that expensive and cut much better than the HF blade mine came with.
On Wed, Apr 7, 2021, 2:24 PM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote: So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it also behaved oddly, but settled and cut really straight.? The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a difference while cutting.? Are some HF blades bad from the git-go??
-Dave
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??? ???? I have been buying Bosch blades at LOWE's for @ 10.00
for my saw & they have been working fine . I also got some
larger metal cutting ones for my 14 " vertical bandsaw at Lowes
for @ 14 bucks
??? ??? animal
On 4/7/2021 2:23 PM, Dave Seiter wrote:
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So about a month ago, the
blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7"
long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it
also behaved oddly, but settled and cut really straight.? The
new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is
highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide
bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't
make a difference while cutting.? Are some HF blades bad from
the git-go??
-Dave
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I only use the Bi-metal blades and I get MONTHs from them. While I don't use the bandsaw every week and I only purchased them with the 20% discount coupon(NOW GONE).? I still have 8 blades ready to go.
Larry
On Wed, Apr 7, 2021 at 5:14 PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
Rule: The tool that does the actual cutting, should be made in USA.
?
That includes drill bits, end mills, saw blades, whatever. I have found that it is well worth the extra money, to get quality cutting tools.
?
Lenox, is a good choice.
?
Other Bill
?
?
So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it also behaved oddly, but
settled and cut really straight.? The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a difference while cutting.?
Are some HF blades bad from the git-go??
|
Rule: The tool that does the actual cutting, should be made in USA.
?
That includes drill bits, end mills, saw blades, whatever. I have found that it is well worth the extra money, to get quality cutting tools.
?
Lenox, is a good choice.
?
Other Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Dave Seiter
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2021 2:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Bad blade from HF?
?
So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it also behaved oddly, but
settled and cut really straight.? The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a difference while cutting.?
Are some HF blades bad from the git-go??
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I broke a HF blade? with only a few cuts. They gave me a free replacement with no questions. They have cut well enough for my expectations.?
On Wed, Apr 7, 2021 at 4:24 PM Dave Seiter < d.seiter@...> wrote: So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it also behaved oddly, but settled and cut really straight.? The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a difference while cutting.? Are some HF blades bad from the git-go??
-Dave
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So about a month ago, the blade in my saw broke while doing a long cut (2" thick/7" long), probably needed lube!? When I got that blade (HF) it also behaved oddly, but settled and cut really straight.? The new blade (also HF) cuts at about a 7-8 degree angle, which is highly annoying to say the least.? I swapped out the guide bearings, just in case, and although one was toast, it didn't make a difference while cutting.? Are some HF blades bad from the git-go??
-Dave
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Thanks for the kind words aRM.? ?I'm still somewhat of a novice on this sort of stuff and my work is a bit rough compared to many. I was inspired by Mark's design and modified it for my needs/situation.? I have to admit, this table is right up there with the hydraulic cylinder down feed, vise modifications, and stand improvement as far as making the saw easier to use.
I really appreciate all of the help/advice given by this group.? One can really improve these saws and eventually have a very compact saw that performs well (albeit, they will always be slower than the more expensive saws).
I have all of my mods shown in the photo section.
Dave
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
Hello? David
Wow !! That's? some? super? work? U? put? in? there.
Fantastic,? to? say? the? least? !!!
Thanks? for? sharing
ATB
TC
aRM
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Re: My Bandsaw Modifications
I just finished my extension table for the front of my saw.? ?I "borrowed" this design from: but I made some changes.? ?I decided to make my table 12.5" long? by 5 inches wide and out of 1/8" hot rolled steel.? ?This length allows me to measure up to 13" long pieces.? ?The original hole for the material stop was so badly drilled, that when I installed a 1/2" rod that wsa 12" long, the end of the rod was over 1" in Y elevation and about 1/2" over in the X axis.? ?The only way to fix this was to hand drill the hole size larger.? ?I had to drill the hole out to 5/8".? ?I used a 5/8" rod as my main table support and used the original grub screw to lock it in position.? ?The table can be easily removed in one piece by loosening the grub screw (although, the rod is a pretty snug slip fit in the hole).? I positioned the rod so that it was very slightly pointing down from the main saw table - it's slightly less than 1/8" at 12" from level..? ?This allows for the part to drop just a little bit when cutting so it doesn't bind the saw blade.? ?I drilled oversized holes in the table for the bolts that fix the angle iron, table, and rod clamps together.? THis was necessary for final alignment. I made two 1 1/2" square by 1/2" thick blocks to clamp to the rod and be the main table support.? ?I cut a slot in the block and used a 1/4x20x1" bolt to clamp the block to the main table support rod. I? used a 1"x 1" x 1/8" thick angle iron to position the scale.? ?The angle iron is roughly 13.75" long (I think).? ?I cut a slots in the angle iron so it would be easier to align it in the horizontal table plane.?? I purchased the scale from Harbor Freight an slotted it by drilling holes, breaking out the web and filing the slots.? ?I learned on the slot nearest to the saw blade (it is really ugly).? I used #4-40x1/4" screws to fix the scale to the angle iron.? I used a Dremel tool to cut the screws ends off that extended beyond the angle iron. I made the material stop out of a? 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/2 block, a 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" block, a 1" x 1 1/4" x 3/16" block and a piece of .020" brass shim stock.? ?The 3/16" block and shim stock closely matches the thickness of the angle iron and the scale (it's within .010" - or it is less than 1/4 turn from full retraction to full clamp on the clamp handle).? I threaded the 1/4" block for 1/4x20 thread and turned the little clamp handle.? ?I used 1/4" drill rod for the handle and it was a light press fit.? I used locktight red to fix the handle to the clamp handle.? ?I had the handle with a slight outward tilt and have it clocked so that the clamp is tight when the rod is at the 12:30 position. I cut a 1 1/2" x 1/8" x 2" long piece on the saw after it was all done.? ?I located the material stop just slightly past the 2" line on the scale? (this was a mistake).? ?I measured the part at 2.020" long - so I'm pretty sure if I center the stop on the scale line, I'll be pretty close to true length.? ?I didn't measure out any other lenghts - I'm hoping that the HF scale is correct. I made all of my steel out of hot rolled (except for the 5/8" bar).? ?I bought a plastic Sterilite container and some vinegar and soaked the table and angle iron in vinegar for 2 days to remove the mill scale.? ?The mill scale will literally rub off after doing this.? I then soaked the pieces in fresh water with baking soda to neutralize the vinegar acid.? I then sanded the pieces with 300 grit wet dry sand paper and Hopp's #9 gun oil to keep things from rusting.? ?I really like the blue grey look that this makes and I like the mill marks in the steel. Thought you'd all be interested in the table.? ?Thanks to Mike for the inspiration.? His website is excellent - he is a very talented machinist.? His designs and work are excellent! Let me know if I left out certain details that you want to know. Dave      
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Yes, the saw base has sound deadening foam and baffles to muffle the sound. I enjoy your YouTube videos. Thanks.
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This isn't my idea but when i saw it I had to make it. I used 3x3 tubing because I had it but 2x2 would have been totally adequate. The upright tub under the table sits on the lower casting so the the table is rock solid.?
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That's fairly extreme! It looks great! Love the vacuum in the base. I'm guessing this also helps muffle the noise of the vacuum.
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WOW - beautiful work Steve!? ?
I'll have to purchase this edition to see off the the things you have done to your saw..
Dave
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Got that issue of HSM.? Nice work. The gray color gives it that "industrial look".
Wheeler
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
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-------- Original message -------- From: Steve Fikar <sfikar@...> Date: 3/15/21 11:40 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical Conversion
I am a long-time member of this forum although I have never posted until now. I thought some might like to see a major modification I made to my saw. I converted it to cut permanently in the vertical position and made many improvements along the way: - I made a rock solid table (see the picture) and made the table height much more ergonomic.
- I added a chip collection feature that uses a shop vac hidden in the saw base to vacuum the chips. It works great.
- I also added a magnetic on/off switch mounted at eye level (see the picture).
This conversion is currently featured on the cover of Home Shop Machinist magazine in the March/April 2021 edition. I went into a lot of detail on how I did the entire conversion if you are interested in doing something similar. This modification is clearly not for everybody. But for me, at this stage in my life, it was exactly what I needed. It is so nice now to cut in the vertical position and not have to straddle the saw base. I feel like my 40-year-old saw is brand new again. I couldn’t be happier with the conversion.
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On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 8:40 PM Steve Fikar < sfikar@...> wrote: I am a long-time member of this forum although I have never posted until now. I thought some might like to see a major modification I made to my saw. I converted it to cut permanently in the vertical position and made many improvements along the way: - I made a rock solid table (see the picture) and made the table height much more ergonomic.
- I added a chip collection feature that uses a shop vac hidden in the saw base to vacuum the chips. It works great.
- I also added a magnetic on/off switch mounted at eye level (see the picture).
This conversion is currently featured on the cover of Home Shop Machinist magazine in the March/April 2021 edition. I went into a lot of detail on how I did the entire conversion if you are interested in doing something similar. This modification is clearly not for everybody. But for me, at this stage in my life, it was exactly what I needed. It is so nice now to cut in the vertical position and not have to straddle the saw base. I feel like my 40-year-old saw is brand new again. I couldn’t be happier with the conversion.
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I am a long-time member of this forum although I have never posted until now. I thought some might like to see a major modification I made to my saw. I converted it to cut permanently in the vertical position and made many improvements along the way: - I made a rock solid table (see the picture) and made the table height much more ergonomic.
- I added a chip collection feature that uses a shop vac hidden in the saw base to vacuum the chips. It works great.
- I also added a magnetic on/off switch mounted at eye level (see the picture).
This conversion is currently featured on the cover of Home Shop Machinist magazine in the March/April 2021 edition. I went into a lot of detail on how I did the entire conversion if you are interested in doing something similar. This modification is clearly not for everybody. But for me, at this stage in my life, it was exactly what I needed. It is so nice now to cut in the vertical position and not have to straddle the saw base. I feel like my 40-year-old saw is brand new again. I couldn’t be happier with the conversion.
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Elevating Plate - Correcting a Common Depth of Cut issue on a 4x6 Import Bandsaw
I did a youtube video about fine tuning a 4x6 bandsaw. On my particular saw when you adjusted the blade guides properly it would not cut completely through the stock. The blade cover hit the base and after I removed the blade cover the top section hit the switch housing. Anyway, I milled a 1/4" plate and put it under the vice jaws and it completely eliminated the problem. After posting the videos I had a bunch of requests for these plates so I starting making them. Where I live here in KY there is a steel yard where I can get low price steel ($.35 cents a lb) and then I found a place to laser cut the steel plate for a fairly good price. My goal was to make them under $35 and I managed to do it for $29.50 (Living in KY has some pluses!)
Anyway, if you are interested here's a video describing the plate and installation as well as a link to the original videos and my web store. I listed 10 plates a last week and they all sold in about 25 minute so apparently this is a common problem. I just got 16 more plates and I have no idea how long this inventory will last. I'll keep having them made if they keep selling but I'm not sure how much longer I can get the steel this cheap. This steel is off cuts from industry. If I buy new steel the price will go up significantly.?
PLEASE print a template to make sure it fits your saw before ordering
Installation video:
Plate Template to check fit:?
Elevating Plate (web store with FREE shipping):
Fine Tuning your 4 x 6 Horizontal Bandsaw: Part One: Part Two:
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John Vreede
Steve Fikar
Mark
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