Haven’t posted in a long time. Had my hf 4x6 saw for probably 15 years. Has been a pretty good saw, had to make special bushings and redo the front pivot to get it squared up, but it’s been working ok. Lately no matter what I do the blade likes to come off the wheels, doesn’t matter if it’s a light or heavy cut. So I thought I’d tear the whole thing down, start from ground zero, and give it a good tune up. Basically followed the “ Blade tracking and adjustment “ by John Pitkin that’s found in the groups files. The wheels are round and lined up top to bottom. Used a good straight edge and played a bit with both upper and lower wheels till they were in line. Put a new blade on and fired it up. ?About a turn on the tilt bolt and the blade came up nicely against the flange on both wheels, just touching and not a hard rub. More tension adde to the blade and everything s nice and quiet, smooth running. Now for the PITA part, no matter what I do to try and adjust the guides, in about 3 revolutions it tosses the blade off. I’ve tried just the upper guides, just the lower guides, and both upper and lower guides, both side guides loose or snugged up a bit. The rear roller guides are set well behind the blade at this point, no contact at all. As soon as I start the saw, the blade starts coming off the lower wheel, and with in a few seconds it’s off everything. I’m looking for some help here. Willing to try whatever, I’m sure stumped on this.
thanks
karl
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
Howdy guys,
I"ve been struggling with this table mod this afternoon.? ?The biggest challenges are:
1.? The hole which houses the original material stop rod is drilled really wonky!? ?I put a 12" drill rod in it and the end of the drill rod was about 1/2" out of alignment towards the saw pivot shaft and about 1" higher than the hole.? ?I don't have any larger drills than 1/2 " and I didn't want to take the entire saw apart to try to drill this straight in my drill press, so I ended up drilling the hole more square, filing it some and jamming some brass shim stock so that the rod is much more straight.? ?I think I can work with it as is now =- but man - it took me like 4 hours to cut the table to size and eventually get the original material stop hole to be good enough to use.
2.? The part of the casting that holds the original material stop is very uneven in the 45 degree angle area.? ?It took a fair bit of filing, grinding, etc. to get it to sit flat all the way across the 5", 45 degree angle casting.
I am going to try to hold the metal scale I purchased at Harbor Freight on the steel angle iron with #4, counter sunk, flat head screws.? ?Thank you so much for the offers of the measuring tape with adhesive, the links, and the suggestions for adhesives.? ?
Dave
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
E6000 is an adhesive that seems to bond anything with anything at ambient temperature conditions. The surfaces need to be clean and a small amount of adhesive is all that is needed. You can find it at Walmart or Home Supply Stores.
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I have a long roll of adhesive backed yellow flexible ruler tape. I'll mail you 2 feet of it if you are ok with quarter inch graduations? Or 3 feet...?? Or 4?
On Sun, Mar 7, 2021, 11:38 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
If the stainless steel scale is magnetic (non Austenitic
Stainless Steel types) you could put rear earth magnets in your
iron angle piece. I have done this on my drill press so I can put
in a 6" scale on the quill when I need to adjust the stop for
depth drilled.
On 8/03/21 7:24 am, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will
make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This
was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging
a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and
bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using the
30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the
length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1"
wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might
be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the
scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather
than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy to
replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle
iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start
to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine,
so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table
a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider
movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
If the stainless steel scale is magnetic (non Austenitic
Stainless Steel types) you could put rear earth magnets in your
iron angle piece. I have done this on my drill press so I can put
in a 6" scale on the quill when I need to adjust the stop for
depth drilled.
On 8/03/21 7:24 am, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will
make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This
was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging
a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and
bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using the
30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the
length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1"
wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might
be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the
scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather
than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy to
replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle
iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start
to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine,
so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table
a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider
movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I ;like the two sided tape idea.
I bought some heavy duty double sided tape from McMaster Carr, to put on some chrome trim on my Jeep.
That was in 2010, and the chrome is still there.
I’m not sure how it holds up to oils, but wind & rocks and rain, it’s passed the test.
You may look on McMaster’s website to see what they have.
?
As far as epoxy, I’d use Devcon 11800. Never used it on stainless, but have used it many times, ?to install mild steel patches on cast iron gearboxes & transmissions, to save the time to remove them
for welding. Never had a failure, but was a royal pain to remove when a ‘real’ repair was done later. If you prep it correctly, you can throw anything at the stuff, including big temperature changes, taking hits, and oil & water. It is expensive however.
?
Other Bill
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: David Pidwerbecki
Sent: Sunday, March 7, 2021 10:25 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
?
Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using
the 30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1" wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy
to replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine, so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider
movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
Thanks for all of your replies.
Good point about better defining the problem?
I want to make an extended table for my bandsaw.? ?I think I will make one very similar to the table defined by Mike:
You can see that Mike adhered his scale to his angle iron.? ?This was my first thought.? ?I want to make my table capable of gaging a part that is 12" long.? ?I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought their 16" long scale (this one is carbon steel) using the 30% off coupon.? I purchased 1" angle iron to be the rail for the length gage stop.? ?Luckily, the HF scale is very close to 1" wide, so it will fit nicely.? ?
I've been thinking about this a little more and I think it might be better to use something like a #4 flat head screw to fasten the scale to the angle iron in, say 3 places (ends and middle) rather than adhering the scale.? ?That way, it would be really easy to replace it, if necessary.? I could also probably slot the angle iron little so I can dial in my length measurements.
I got the steel I need to do the job.? ?Now, I just have to start to cut, file, drill, tap, etc.? ?I don't have a milling machine, so a lot of my stuff is done by hand.? ?I think I'll make my table a little longer, the same width, and my length gage/slider movement will be slightly different dimensions.
I really like the work that Mike has done.
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
??? ??? You can buy measuring tape with adhesive on it .
??? ??? animal
On 3/6/2021 9:20 PM, David Pidwerbecki
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ?
?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
Is your application going to experience a wide temperature swing, or elevated temperature?? Much shear or pull force?? Does it have to be glued -- maybe? screw-down clamps would work?? Does the stainless need to be captured along its entire length, or just the end(s) or middle?
Point being, it would be easier to offer an answer if the application conditions were better defined.
Mark
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
You may want to look at high-strength marine epoxy.
Wheeler
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...> Date: 3/7/21 2:41 AM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I've done it, but the epoxy I used is no longer available (I got it as a sample about 15 years ago, and recently contacted the company because I couldn't find the product on their web site; turned out that they reformulated it and changed the name).? Scuffing the surfaces is a very good idea.
-Dave
On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 09:56:12 PM PST, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
I'd use 24hr set epoxy.? Scuff both sides with emery - jv? I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
3M 2216 2 part epoxy comes in gray or clear
On 3/6/2021 11:20:42 PM, David Pidwerbecki <dpidwerbecki@...> wrote: I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I've done it, but the epoxy I used is no longer available (I got it as a sample about 15 years ago, and recently contacted the company because I couldn't find the product on their web site; turned out that they reformulated it and changed the name).? Scuffing the surfaces is a very good idea.
-Dave
On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 09:56:12 PM PST, John Vreede <vreededesign@...> wrote:
I'd use 24hr set epoxy.? Scuff both sides with emery - jv?
I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
|
Re: Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I'd use 24hr set epoxy.? Scuff both sides with emery - jv?
I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
|
Glueing stainless steel to carbon steel
I want to glue a stainless steel scale to some carbon steel. ? ?Has anyone ever done this and if so, what adhesive did you use?
|
Re: Correcting Unwanted Movable Jaw Pivoting on a 4 X 6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
Jim, ? Sorry about that. My first post had an error in the URL. should work. ? Plus I made a . ? Rick ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of JIM LAND Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2021 9:44 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Correcting Unwanted Movable Jaw Pivoting on a 4 X 6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw ? Not FoundThe requested URL was not found on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
Only God & Electricians can make Light
Where we go One we go All
When you Outlaw Guns only Outlaws Will Have Guns
I Love my Country But I Fear my Government Good men do bad things at night to keep you safe ? ? The movable jaw on my bandsaw can be annoying. It is secured to the leadscrew at a single point so is free to rotate far more than what is useful. This means having to correct its position almost every time I move the jaw in or out more than a few inches. Here is a simple remedy. If you are interested, please, click .?
Rick
|
Re: Correcting Unwanted Movable Jaw Pivoting on a 4 X 6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
Not FoundThe requested URL was not found on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. Jim Land? J&J Enterprises 3816 Davenport Rd. Metamora, MI. 48455 810-797-5248
Only God & Electricians can make Light
Where we go One we go All When you Outlaw Guns only Outlaws Will Have Guns I Love my Country But I Fear my Government Good men do bad things at night to keep you safe
The movable jaw on my bandsaw can be annoying. It is secured to the leadscrew at a single point so is free to rotate far more than what is useful. This means having to correct its position almost every time I move the jaw in or out more than a few inches. Here is a simple remedy.
?
If you are interested, please, click .?
Rick
|
|
|
Re: Correcting Unwanted Movable Jaw Pivoting on a 4 X 6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
|
Re: Correcting Unwanted Movable Jaw Pivoting on a 4 X 6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
Jack,
Great idea. I’ll do it today.?
Rick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 4, 2021, at 8:16 AM, Jack Dinan <jack@...> wrote:
? Rick:?
A video of the hockey puck driving the jaw with that stud in place? ?? On Mar 4, 2021, at 9:40 AM, Rick Sparber via < rgsparber@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
The movable jaw on my bandsaw can be annoying. It is secured to the leadscrew at a single point so is free to rotate far more than what is useful. This means having to correct its position almost every time I move the jaw in or out more than a few inches. Here is a simple remedy.
?
If you are interested, please, click .?
Rick
|
Re: Correcting Unwanted Movable Jaw Pivoting on a 4 X 6 Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
If a writer can make two sequels to ‘101 Uses For A Dead Cat’, you got it made!!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 4, 2021, at 7:15 AM, Rick Sparber via groups.io <rgsparber@...> wrote:
?
Good thinking!
I recall a book by two rather old sisters called “The First Hundred Years.” Great title!
Rick
On Mar 4, 2021, at 8:12 AM, Bill Armstrong <bill_1955@...> wrote:
? That’s how you sell sequels!?
“Another 101 Uses For An Od Hockey Puck”?
On Mar 4, 2021, at 7:09 AM, Rick Sparber <rgsparber.ya@...> wrote:
?
Bill,
I have to limit myself to 101 ;-)
Rick
On Mar 4, 2021, at 8:04 AM, Bill Armstrong <bill_1955@...> wrote:
? Clever!?
I look forward to your book, ‘101 Uses For An Old Hockey Puck’ !?
:)
Other Bill
On Mar 4, 2021, at 6:40 AM, Rick Sparber via groups.io <rgsparber@...> wrote:
?
The movable jaw on my bandsaw can be annoying. It is secured to the leadscrew at a single point so is free to rotate far more than what is useful. This means having to correct its position almost every time I move the jaw in or out more than a few inches.
Here is a simple remedy.
?
If you are interested, please, click .?
Rick
|
John Vreede
JIM LAND