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Re: Drive belt tension
Hi all I've tried the following 1/2" wide belt variations that fit - A section raw edge, AX 'cog' belts?and link belts like Fennerflex, even an OEM belt that almost broke apart it was so perished.? (I haven't tried a wrapped edge (4L) belt meant for outdoor power equipment which has the same x-section but the wrapping would make it harder to bend around small diameters). I can't honestly say that one was any better than the other. Can't?even say that the link belts were 'smoother', which?is the common claim.? I bought 3 new belts (A, AX and Link) with the express purpose of seeing if I could tell the difference - I couldn't, at least not between A and AX and certainly not that made enough difference to justify 4x greater cost for the Link-type.
I think this is because I re-engineered my motor mount and tensioner for solidity. Why people with a std set-up notice a positive difference when using this or that new belt, is probably due more to them tightening and realigning everything when installing the new belt (and why wouldn't you). When looking at how well a belt works you need to widen the scope to include the pulleys and mounting/tensioning as well:?? The 4x6 pulleys are not made to the belt manufacturers pulley dimension std.which has different?groove angles for different diameter ranges (the included angle gets narrower as the diameter decreases). The OEM pulleys are all 36deg, when the larger diameter ones should be 34 and the smallest 31deg.? The smallest diameter?pulley in the set (48mm) is actually below the minimum diameter given in the standard. That probably means the AX belt (with the 'cogged' inside looking like gear teeth) should work better as it's more easily able to wrap around the smaller pulley, but the belt manufacturers' std doesn't allow AX belts to run any smaller diameter than the solid A-section belt.? It didn't perform noticeably?better than the A-section either. The motor mount and tensioner system is very flimsy and prone to vibration, which excites vibration out of the panel steel stand.? What I have proven is that changing the motor mount and tensioner gave me the biggest reduction in vibration and noise of any modification I've made. Check my photo album for what I did, there is a sequence of 15 or so photos of a new mount, pivot bolts and tensioner, even stiffening up the old motor mount to work with the new tensioner. Sorry to be a fly in the ointment, but this is my experience - jv On Sat, Aug 22, 2020 at 8:59 AM Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
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Re: Drive belt tension
Ralph Hulslander
You can get link belts from Harbor Freight, love em would not know how to even size a v belt. Ralph On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 4:09 PM Rob M. <robmuckley@...> wrote: I ended up going with a Fenner link belt. Great improvement! |
Re: Drive belt tension
I have ran a Fenner type belt (there are a couple of companies that make these, one red and the other green) on my 4x6 saw, table saw, band saws,Jointer, metal lathe, metal shaper, wood shaper, Tormach, and a couple of mill/driils for many years. They are smooth, quiet and repairable if they should break but no one ever has. I wouldn't consider or use anything else. I use both 3/8's" and 1/2" belts and buy the stock in 4 or 5 foot lengths. gary
On Friday, August 21, 2020, 07:44:35 AM CDT, William Kahn via groups.io <william_kahn@...> wrote:
I have had good experience with this belt D&D PowerDrive A20/4L220 V Belt, 1/2" x 22" OC, A Section, Rubberfor my HF 4x6. -Bill |
Grizzly 7x going up for sale
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWe just got updated customs info and found for our move we can't take any of our machine tools, so the Grizzly mini lathe with full tool set, horizontal band saw, and a couple of table top milling machines will be for sale as I can get them together.Also tools for my former big milling machine which has been sold. Interested parties should contact me directly so I can work out who might want what. Items are located in Los Gatos, California.? Shipping would be difficult and expensive.? I also suddenly don't have a lot of spare time as I have a lot of things to get rid of SOON. -- Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK & |
Re: Added Folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table
#file-notice
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks Kerrin. ? Much appreciated. ? George ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of kerrin.galvin via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 8:41 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Added Folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table #file-notice ? Hi Guys, |
Re: Added Folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table
#file-notice
Hi Karl,
?Thanks for checking & letting me know! Hope you enjoy making & using the table. Cheers Kerrin |
Re: Added Folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table
#file-notice
Kerrin, Your long walk was worth it - the files came through just fine. Thanks for the share.
(I deleted my "testing" file.) k |
Re: Added Folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table
#file-notice
Hi Guys,
?I have added the two files for my table, hopefully you can see them. Any question feel free to ask! Cheers Kerrin |
How to add files
Hi guys, I¡¯m using my iPad, Open the add file, browse select the file & everything looks great, hit add & nothing happens! What am I missing? I can see that new files have been added quite recently, so it¡¯s doable. Any help great-fully received! |
Added Folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table
#file-notice
[email protected] Notification
kerrin.galvin added folder Kerrin¡¯s Quick fit bandsaw table |
Re: Table for Vertical Cuts with HFT Bandsaw
I would too?
I for one would appreciate you posting the drawings. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 10:54:18 PM CDT, kerrin.galvin via groups.io <kerrin.galvin@...> wrote:
Hi George, ?Thanks for the compliment! i have drawing for it if you are interested. I did try to post them here when I made it buy Yahoo didn¡¯t make it possible at the time, no idea why. I should try again, maybe I¡¯d be successful this time! Cheers Kerrin |
Re: Table for Vertical Cuts with HFT Bandsaw
I for one would appreciate you posting the drawings. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 10:54:18 PM CDT, kerrin.galvin via groups.io <kerrin.galvin@...> wrote:
Hi George, ?Thanks for the compliment! i have drawing for it if you are interested. I did try to post them here when I made it buy Yahoo didn¡¯t make it possible at the time, no idea why. I should try again, maybe I¡¯d be successful this time! Cheers Kerrin |
Re: Table for Vertical Cuts with HFT Bandsaw
John, the blade should not be hard against the rims. It should ride clear of both rims when properly aligned. The rim is only there to make it easy to put the blade on. You are bending the blade across its 1/2" dimension more than you need to, if its hard against the top rim.? Hard against the top rim with the guides too far forward means one adjustment is fighting the other, which I believe is the cause of your blade derailing. Back the rear guides off so both are well clear of the blade. Then back off the tilt of the top wheel until it's just clear of the top rim. That unbending will make the blade move toward the rear guide roller at the top, so you might have to move the rear guide roller back still further.? Get the blade to run a fingernail width away from the top rim while clear on both top and bottom rear rollers. Most likely it will now be running more than the fingernail gap away from the bottom wheel's rim. If so, move the bottom wheel out on its shaft (can put the same amount washers behind the wheel to maintain the spacer length and get the blade-to-rim spacing right).? If, after you've adjusted the top, the blade is still hard against the bottom rim, cut down the length of the spacer and move the wheel inward on its shaft until the blade just runs clear of the rim. Beware: moving the bottom wheel back will change where the blade runs on the top wheel, so you go through an iterative process until the blade runs just clear of both wheel rims while clear of both rear guide rollers.? Then adjust the rear guide rollers forward so they just don't touch the back of the blade.? Sorry it's so wordy, rgds - jv On Fri, 14 Aug 2020, 5:56 am john walker, <jwalkergh@...> wrote: Thanks John Vreede for the manual reference, I'm going thru it now. |
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