Re: Table for Vertical Cuts with HFT Bandsaw
Nice work! You obviously have more room in your workshop than I have to store it. The dolly under the saw looks really simple and effective too. - jv
Saw table fabricated and in place.?See?how the saw vise clamps the table to the base of the table. Four adjustable height feet?to make the whole thing level in both axes and very rigid and lots of space to maneuver the workpiece.?too.
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Re: Table for Vertical Cuts with HFT Bandsaw
nice!
At 03:59 PM 8/7/2020 +0000, you wrote:
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Saw table fabricated and in
place. See how the saw vise clamps the table to the base of the table.
Four adjustable height feet to make the whole thing level in both axes
and very rigid and lots of space to maneuver the workpiece. too.
John
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Table for Vertical Cuts with HFT Bandsaw
Saw table fabricated and in place.?See?how the saw vise clamps the table to the base of the table. Four adjustable height feet?to make the whole thing level in both axes and very rigid and lots of space to maneuver the workpiece.?too.
John Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
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This is great, thank you Carl!
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Rob,
?? You can probably use this attachment once you get the belt
situation straightened out. Good luck with that. I’ve had my saw since 2005 and
have been very happy with it.
Carl H
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From: Rob
M.
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 7:19 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Drive belt tension
?
Hi
all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive
belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with
thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would
probably melt the belt if I left it), and a dust of belt rubber is coming off
and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the
belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade I'm just trying to
get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with each other,
I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok
except this issue.
Thanks,
Rob
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Thank you for all of the tips, John. I appreciate it.
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Hi Rob The fact its shedding rubber is not good and says alignment is probably out somewhere. You have lined up the pulleys heights but that's not all you need to line up. These saws have very flimsy motor mounts that twist easily, with motor?mounting bolts that have inadequate washers so the motor moves on the mounting plate, and also poor pivots, running on the threads of the pivot bolts, all of?which cause mis-alignment.? When you tension the belt with the belt guard on you won't see the motor twist out of alignment. While you sort this out, try running without the guard as you'll diagnose the problems much more quickly, then replace it later. Start by putting panel?washers under the nuts of the motor bolts with lock washers or Loctite. Re-align the pulley heights. Depending on the slop?in the pivots, you may have to shift the motor on the mounting plate to get the motor shaft parallel to the pulley shaft. This should get you running in?alignment.?? The pivots are a bit of a problem, as they thread sloppily into the pressed metal of the mounting plate.? The width of the mounting plate is ~3/16" smaller than the gap between the ears it pivots in.? You can't tighten the bolts or you'll jam?the pivoting action. Shim the distance between both sides of the mounting plate with washers leaving a bit of free play so it still pivots nicely, then Loctite the bolts into the mounting plate with the strongest Loctite you;ve?got ( (263 'Red' is best and you may have to use a heat gun on it to get it to set as the pressed threaded portion is not very long and quite loose).? It won't last forever, but by then you'll want to make a?better mounting plate and tensioning system. Belt tension is not particularly important, so long as it's?not slipping too much.? Squealing is often a sign that a belt is slipping (think altenator/aircon?drive belts in your car that squeal at startup),? but it? doesn't seem like?you're under-tensioning it. In fact some people run with the belt purposely slack so that when the blade jams (like when cutting aluminium) that the motor keeps running and doesn't burn out. (This not infrequent fault happens within?10sec if the motor stalls with the power?still on!??It's the most common way people burn out motors.) There is a formula for working out the belt tension from the belt size and the distance between the pulley centres.? It's given as 'pounds to deflect a given distance' and it's less than you'd think.? It's?like, 2lb to deflect 0.150", for a 1/2" wide (A, Ax or 4L) belt on a std 4x6.? What size belt does your machine have? (measure the width across the widest part of the tapered section - normally 1/2" or 3/8"), I think new machines have smaller belt/pulleys ('value engineering'!?). Rgds - jv?
On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 1:41 AM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...> wrote:
First thing to do, is to go out, with belt in hand, and buy a ‘real’ belt.?
A Gates, A Dayco.....a good one. ?
The v-belts supplied with Chinese made machines, are garbage, in my experience.?
As far as the 1/2” spec, that’s fine.
Belts do get hot, caused by the friction within, from flexing around the pulleys, so don’t expect it to run completely cool.?
Other Bill
?Hi all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would probably melt the belt if I left it), and a
dust of belt rubber is coming off and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade. I'm just trying to get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with
each other, I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok except this issue.?
Thanks,
Rob
|
First thing to do, is to go out, with belt in hand, and buy a ‘real’ belt.?
A Gates, A Dayco.....a good one. ?
The v-belts supplied with Chinese made machines, are garbage, in my experience.?
As far as the 1/2” spec, that’s fine.
Belts do get hot, caused by the friction within, from flexing around the pulleys, so don’t expect it to run completely cool.?
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On Aug 5, 2020, at 6:34 AM, Rob M. <robmuckley@...> wrote:
?Hi all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would probably melt the belt if I left it), and a
dust of belt rubber is coming off and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade. I'm just trying to get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with
each other, I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok except this issue.?
Thanks,
Rob
|
Hi all,
I picked up a new HF 4x6 (62377) and I'm trying to get the drive belt tension correct. The instructions say 1/2" deflection when pushed with thumb. At this tension the belt and pulleys are getting very warm (would probably melt the belt if I left it), and a dust of belt rubber is coming off and motor gets is getting warm. Also getting slight squeal which sounds like the belt. This is all happening with not load on the saw blade. I'm just trying to get everything adjusted. I have the pulley heights set level with each other, I've checked and changed the gear box oil and everything seems free and ok except this issue.?
Thanks,
Rob
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Here's another thought.? I currently live in the suburbs, but I'd
like to buy some land outside of town in a few years and build a
house & shop.? When I do, the shop will be heated & cooled
with geothermal heat.? I might do a greenhouse too, .
He buried french drain piping in a big loop out through his yard
and blows air through it.? It keeps it warm in the winter and cool
in the summer.? His greenhouse grows a wide variety of plants
(including oranges) year round in Nebraska, which gets a fair
amount of snow.
-Joe
On 7/16/2020 11:35 AM, seb fontana via
groups.io wrote:
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Do not attach anything to the floor at least for a couple of
months. You may have to deal with some vibration and stuff moving
around while you're using it but if you wait a couple months
before you attach it to the floor is guaranteed you won't have to
unattach it and move it again!6u
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Do not attach anything to the floor at least for a couple of months. You may have to deal with some vibration and stuff moving around while you're using it but if you wait a couple months before you attach it to the floor is guaranteed you won't have to unattach it and move it again!
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Do not attach anything to the floor at least for a couple of months. You may have to deal with some vibration and stuff moving around while you're using it but if you wait a couple months before you attach it to the floor is guaranteed you won't have to unattach it and move it again!6u
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Thanks to all for the terrific suggestions. Now all I have to do is get it built!
Dick
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Fiberglass reinforced plastic?sheathing is cheap, durable and easy to work with.?
Gotta echo Jerry,
Heat, Light and Powerpoints! Attached for more info - jv
Jerry,
It sees the most action behind my lathe.?
Rick On Jul 14, 2020, at 2:39 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
?
Might be a good thing to put up behind my mill,
the walls are smooth concrete to be painted.? A thin sheet of some
plastic hung there surly couldn't hurt.? Probably not hot pink.
Our walls, currently drying before the smoothing top coat and
later paint
On 7/14/20 2:34 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
Oh, one more thing – my walls are covered
with this plastic sheet that you sometimes see in commercial
bathrooms. It is a snap to wipe up oil that has flung from a
machine. Trying to get oil off of drywall is hard. This
plastic is also tough. It takes heavy bumps without showing
it.
?
Being bright white, at least when new, it
reflects light well.
?
Rick
?
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
My shop slab is 20 x 40 with a 2-foot loading dock in front and a 10-foot covered porch in the back.? The studs are 2x8, and the walls and ceiling are insulated, covered with 1/2" plywood, caulked, and painted white.? The ceiling is 10 feet high and has 15 dual 4-foot led fixtures.? It has a 30-amp panel.? There is one 220V breaker for the mill and an outlet on the back porch in case I want to take up arc welding.? The shop is wired with 10-gauge wire feeding dual duplex outlets every 6 feet.? Each outlet box has feeds from two breakers, and the outlets on the wast (metalworking) side are separate from those on the east (woodworking) side.? There are separate circuits feeding the air compressor and the through wall A/C.? With A/C in the summer (necessary in central Texas) and several portable electric heaters the equipment stays rust-free and is usable year round.? The Grizzly mill and the Craftsman 6x18 lathe are covered when not in use, so the wood dust is not too much of a problem.? Water is from a couple of 15-gallon barrels, and the back porch doubles as a bathroom.? Most of my tools are on wheels.? I only have dust collection on the table saw and the band saw, while the shop vac services the belt sander and planer.? All in all, I'm happy with the layout, but the 4x8 workbench could have bee a bit smaller (3x6?).? Storage is two roll-around tool chests, a 5-drawer lateral file for routers, drills, saws & accessories, sanders & grinders, and pneumatic tools.? A 10-drawer dual computer card file holds mill & lathe accessories, planes, chisels, metal stock, & a whole mess of other stuff.? Shelves go all around the shop above the doors and windows and on the walls in the northwest corner.? I wanted sheer drapes on the four windows and the french doors, but the wife found some cheap lace curtains.? The drill press and scroll saw were my Dad's and are probably older than me (74). Ro'unding out the list is the radial arm saw, and the 4x6 band saw (just to keep this post relevant).? - Ed
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Gotta echo Jerry,
Heat, Light and Powerpoints! Attached for more info - jv
Jerry,
It sees the most action behind my lathe.?
Rick On Jul 14, 2020, at 2:39 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
?
Might be a good thing to put up behind my mill,
the walls are smooth concrete to be painted.? A thin sheet of some
plastic hung there surly couldn't hurt.? Probably not hot pink.
Our walls, currently drying before the smoothing top coat and
later paint
On 7/14/20 2:34 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
Oh, one more thing – my walls are covered
with this plastic sheet that you sometimes see in commercial
bathrooms. It is a snap to wipe up oil that has flung from a
machine. Trying to get oil off of drywall is hard. This
plastic is also tough. It takes heavy bumps without showing
it.
?
Being bright white, at least when new, it
reflects light well.
?
Rick
?
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Jerry,
It sees the most action behind my lathe.?
Rick
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Show quoted text
On Jul 14, 2020, at 2:39 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
?
Might be a good thing to put up behind my mill,
the walls are smooth concrete to be painted.? A thin sheet of some
plastic hung there surly couldn't hurt.? Probably not hot pink.
Our walls, currently drying before the smoothing top coat and
later paint
On 7/14/20 2:34 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
Oh, one more thing – my walls are covered
with this plastic sheet that you sometimes see in commercial
bathrooms. It is a snap to wipe up oil that has flung from a
machine. Trying to get oil off of drywall is hard. This
plastic is also tough. It takes heavy bumps without showing
it.
?
Being bright white, at least when new, it
reflects light well.
?
Rick
?
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Might be a good thing to put up behind my mill,
the walls are smooth concrete to be painted.? A thin sheet of some
plastic hung there surly couldn't hurt.? Probably not hot pink.
Our walls, currently drying before the smoothing top coat and
later paint
On 7/14/20 2:34 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
Oh, one more thing – my walls are covered
with this plastic sheet that you sometimes see in commercial
bathrooms. It is a snap to wipe up oil that has flung from a
machine. Trying to get oil off of drywall is hard. This
plastic is also tough. It takes heavy bumps without showing
it.
?
Being bright white, at least when new, it
reflects light well.
?
Rick
?
--
Jerry Durand, WhatsApp, Telegram, VK
&
|
Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Oh, one more thing – my walls are covered with this plastic sheet that you sometimes see in commercial bathrooms. It is a snap to wipe up oil that has flung from a machine. Trying to get oil off of drywall is hard. This plastic is also tough. It takes heavy bumps without showing it. ? Being bright white, at least when new, it reflects light well. ? Rick ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of rfmarchi1 via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 10:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Setting up a new shop... seeking advice ? Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one. I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop. The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath.? It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling. The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets. So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
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Re: Setting up a new shop... seeking advice
Too bad, you are moving. I always enjoyed hearing about your floating shop. People would argue with me about the importance of leveling a lathe, and I would point to your arrangement. ? My shop is 150 square feet and has served me well for over 15 years. I put in a big sub box and 20 circuit breakers. Each outlet box is on a separate circuit. I can then change any box from 120V to 220V as needed. The extra cost in breakers and wires was minimal. It has saved me a few times. I do have an outlet in the ceiling which feeds a cord reel but rarely need it. ? I have a smoke alarm that is connected to the smoke alarm grid in the house. If there is a fire in the shop when I’m not there, I still want to know about it. ? The ceiling is covered in fluorescent fixtures. IIRC, there is a KW up there. You can never have enough light. If I could have put in a skylight, I would have done it. ? Since this is Phoenix, A/C was essential. I installed a 1-ton split unit after two wall units died. No need for heat in the “winter.” The walls filled with insulation but, more importantly, the attic has a blanket about 12-inches thick. In the heat of summer, the attic gets to 200°F. ? After framing but before I hung the sheetrock, I coated the concrete floor with an epoxy-based paint. It has held up OK, not great. On the few times I dropped something heavy and chipped the floor, it was really obvious. In a few places, it has worn off. Maybe there is a better product available now. My previous shop had no paint on the floor, and the concrete was of poor quality. It always felt like I was walking on fine sand. ? Best of luck with your new place, ? Rick ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of rfmarchi1 via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 10:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Setting up a new shop... seeking advice ? Strange topic, but possibly an interesting one. I live in on a house barge on the Potomac River in Washington, DC and have had a shop at a weekend cabin in West Virginia since 2008. For many years we spend weekends at the cabin and the shop was my recreation while my wife was gardening. As years have passed and my mobility has declined that arrangement has become difficult. We recently bought a new house in Southern Maryland with a two car garage and I relocated all the machinery (Burke #4 horizontal mill, Atlas 10” lathe, 12” table saw, 13” planer, 6” jointer, 16 speed floor model drill press, 6” horizontal band saw, 14” vertical band saw, a couple of bench grinders, miscellaneous power and manual tools, a couple of rolling tool chests and a couple of machinists tool boxes, etc.). The WV shop was about ? the size of the garage and I’d be interested in the group’s suggestions for setting up a new shop. The old shop was uninsulated and heated by a wood stove and measured 14’ X 22’. It had a 30 A, 240 V breaker panel and 120V 20 A outlets generously distributed on the side walls, plus an overhead 20 A electric reel that reached almost anywhere in the shop. It had two sets of metal shelving, a couple of sets of 2X4 framed shelving along the walls, and a 2” deep X 8’ long workbench along one wall with storage underneath.? It was lit by four 4’ fluorescent, two lamp lighting fixtures mounted on the trusses. It had a 10’ clearance to the roof trusses and a 2 ton chain fall supported across six trusses. I moved that to the garage in MD. Neither shop has a finished ceiling. The garage is unheated and uninsulated but attached to the house and could be insulated in the future. The house lot is well shaded and on a really hot (90+ degrees F) the shop is comfortable with both the garage doors open. The garage currently has only one 15 A circuit for a couple of overhead bare bulb light fixtures and the garage door openers. I have an electrician coming shortly to add at least 20 A circuit with multiple outlets, and possibly a 30 A 240V sub panel. Since it is a one-man shop I never need to run more than one piece of machinery at a time, so the total amperage is less of a concern than having a lot of convenient outlets. So, having enjoyed the advice of the group for 10 – 12 years, I wonder what suggestions you have for setting up a brand new shop. Be innovative, we may all learn something in the process.
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John Vreede
seb fontana
Jerry Durand