I'm not an expert on this, maybe someone else can offer a more authoritative opinion.
But I'm under the impression that the backwards motion on a sawblade is harder on its cutting edges, since the material tends to round over the edge rather than get cut by it. That would suggest your current blade may not last as long because you ran it backwards a while.? It might be good to wait on forming an opinion of the blade's quality until your next blade from this company.
?
The voice of experience, love it!!
Ralph
?
You guys were right.? It was flipped inside out.? I flipped it in and
the teeth are running the right way.? I am still confused on how that
reverses it, but hey it worked!? Thanks!? Kris
|
The voice of experience, love it!!
Ralph
?
You guys were right.? It was flipped inside out.? I flipped it in and
the teeth are running the right way.? I am still confused on how that
reverses it, but hey it worked!? Thanks!? Kris
|
You guys were right.? It was flipped inside out.? I flipped it in and
the teeth are running the right way.? I am still confused on how that
reverses it, but hey it worked!? Thanks!? Kris
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Well, the bearings and seals are in and the case is in primer. :) Combination of frozen bearings/seals. Warmed up aluminum (Could only touch for a split second), some engine grease, and a make shift bearing install tool with some all thread, modified washers, and a pair of 15/16" nuts. No jams, burs, or chips. :) Thanks for the help and ideas. Just proves there's more than one way to skin a cat.? Primer and paint are next :) Thanks Darren
?
300-350F is a bit toasty for most things I know.
The SKF induction bearing heater we had, was preset to 110C (230F). Turn it on, and that¡¯s where it was. If you wanted more, you had to manually reset it. We also had a smaller
Bessy, that we used a heat gun on to see where we were. 200 and a little above¡.they were installed.
Also, if I remember correctly, SKF stated that preheat should be limited to 255F, although I guess there were some exceptions, but none that I was around. If more than that was
needed, there may be a problem with the shaft diameter.
?
Bill
?
?
?
Hi, All...
Just to add my experience...
Some years ago, I converted my mini-lathe to tapered roller bearings.? A good friend recommended that I freeze the spindle and heat the bearing, so I wrapped the spindle to minimize moisture and put it in the freezer overnight.? The next
morning, I put the bearing in the oven at 300¡ã or 350¡ã... I don't remember which.? After a couple of hours, I removed both and rushed downstairs to the shop and quickly placed the bearing over the spindle.? To my surprise, it slid right on and seated fully.?
One minute later, I couldn't budge it.? I calculated that, between the freezing and the heating, I had increased the clearance by about 0.0016 inches, about 2/3 of which came from the heating.
I have been using the lathe since (maybe 6 years) with no negative effects from heating the bearing.
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
300-350F is a bit toasty for most things I know.
The SKF induction bearing heater we had, was preset to 110C (230F). Turn it on, and that¡¯s where it was. If you wanted more, you had to manually reset it. We also had a smaller
Bessy, that we used a heat gun on to see where we were. 200 and a little above¡.they were installed.
Also, if I remember correctly, SKF stated that preheat should be limited to 255F, although I guess there were some exceptions, but none that I was around. If more than that was
needed, there may be a problem with the shaft diameter.
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2018 7:21 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
Hi, All...
Just to add my experience...
Some years ago, I converted my mini-lathe to tapered roller bearings.? A good friend recommended that I freeze the spindle and heat the bearing, so I wrapped the spindle to minimize moisture and put it in the freezer overnight.? The next
morning, I put the bearing in the oven at 300¡ã or 350¡ã... I don't remember which.? After a couple of hours, I removed both and rushed downstairs to the shop and quickly placed the bearing over the spindle.? To my surprise, it slid right on and seated fully.?
One minute later, I couldn't budge it.? I calculated that, between the freezing and the heating, I had increased the clearance by about 0.0016 inches, about 2/3 of which came from the heating.
I have been using the lathe since (maybe 6 years) with no negative effects from heating the bearing.
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Hi, All...
Just to add my experience...
Some years ago, I converted my mini-lathe to tapered roller bearings.? A good friend recommended that I freeze the spindle and heat the bearing, so I wrapped the spindle to minimize moisture and put it in the freezer overnight.? The next morning, I put the bearing in the oven at 300¡ã or 350¡ã... I don't remember which.? After a couple of hours, I removed both and rushed downstairs to the shop and quickly placed the bearing over the spindle.? To my surprise, it slid right on and seated fully.? One minute later, I couldn't budge it.? I calculated that, between the freezing and the heating, I had increased the clearance by about 0.0016 inches, about 2/3 of which came from the heating.
I have been using the lathe since (maybe 6 years) with no negative effects from heating the bearing.
Thanks, Charlie
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Bill I hear ya. Won't be going nuts with the torch. Warming. Spit sizzle. That's around 212. I get it. Won't be too liberal with the torch, if I have to use it at all.?
Sorry for all the over think'n.? Darren
?
Darren,
Heating metals to install bearings, whether it be steel or aluminum, does NOT require high enough temperatures to change the color. Again, if you are doing that or think you need
to do that, you are way past where you need to be as far as temp. That applies to ball bearings and plain bearings.
As a matter of fact, if you have a bearing bore in steel which is a thou or three oversize, you can shrink that ID by heating it evenly to dark red to cherry red, and walking
away and letting it cool naturally. Larger bores, you can get more than .003¡±.
?
A better word for what is done for bearing installation, and may or may not need to be done, is
warming.
And again¡.lot of over thinking going on here¡..Hopefully you have ¡®em installed, and have figured that out.
;)
Bill
?
?
?
Bill,
I'm notorious for doing just that, ant hills into mountains. I have the case in the house, about 76¡ã f. The bearings are frozen by now. I think with a bit of lube and a some light taping they may just fall into place. If not, and I'm careful,
I can back them out and try a bit of heat. Steel, I'm good with. ( I like colors.) Aluminum IS THE DEVIL. No color change at melting point?!?! C'mon.... :) It's as if aluminum has a mercury complex or something. I think aluminum is just angry that us Yanks
miss spell it's name. :)
?
?
Here¡¯s a question¡..how much effort did it take to remove the old bearings? New ones should install with similar force, and arguably less, since you cleaned up the housing., the bearings are new & clean, and there¡¯s no paint on anything.
?
You don¡¯t need so much heat, as to worry about melting something. That is extreme.
If you use some lube to the bore of the housing, even if you heat it, it will not all go away, unless, again, you get extreme. If you must use a torch, keep the flame away from direct contact with any lube. Burnt lube, whether it¡¯s
oil or grease, takes up space. Put some lube on the outer race of the bearing too. It doesn¡¯t trake a lot. Keep the bearing aligned with the bore when installing. The outer races are radiused, so it¡¯s really not a big deal, and not so easy to start damaging
the housing when installing the bearing.
?
I think some people are making a very simple job into a scary disaster film¡¡
?
Bill
?
?
?
Great idea. However, I don't have a lathe, yet. That's coming in Q1 of 2019. Also, as soon as I sent the last question, I realized the error in my thoughts. If the aluminum is hot enough to sizzle spit, it'll probably burn off the grease. Or at least break
it down past the point of usefulness. Looks like it'll be one or the other. Bearings and seals are in the freezer. :) Now I just need to play with some scrap aluminum and my little MAPP torch to be sure I don't melt the casing...
Weather is too cold to paint anyway. :)
?
?
?
JV,
That makes sense to me. Any issues with following both procedures? Temp and lube?
? I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron - which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing bearings with a piece of threaded rod or a long enough bolt and
some properly sized washers . Sometimes I'll machine a slug that is a slip fit in the bore (with a hole in the center for the rod) to keep the bearing square with the bore . But I don't know what tooling you have available ...
?--
? Snag
?
?
There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it.. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly.
The biggest cause of failure in bearings in general is improper installation, with being dinged from hitting them into place and skewed alignment the main culprits. That's why you never replace bearings as 'preventative maintenance'.
So anything you can do to ease installation is worth doing. The main ones are heating the outside/cooling the inside so less force required to get it in place, along with jigs to push or pull them in squarely and applying the pressure to the correct side of
the bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get the outer to seat) - jv
?
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Darren,
Heating metals to install bearings, whether it be steel or aluminum, does NOT require high enough temperatures to change the color. Again, if you are doing that or think you need
to do that, you are way past where you need to be as far as temp. That applies to ball bearings and plain bearings.
As a matter of fact, if you have a bearing bore in steel which is a thou or three oversize, you can shrink that ID by heating it evenly to dark red to cherry red, and walking
away and letting it cool naturally. Larger bores, you can get more than .003¡±.
?
A better word for what is done for bearing installation, and may or may not need to be done, is
warming.
And again¡.lot of over thinking going on here¡..Hopefully you have ¡®em installed, and have figured that out.
;)
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 1:57 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
Bill,
I'm notorious for doing just that, ant hills into mountains. I have the case in the house, about 76¡ã f. The bearings are frozen by now. I think with a bit of lube and a some light taping they may just fall into place. If not, and I'm careful,
I can back them out and try a bit of heat. Steel, I'm good with. ( I like colors.) Aluminum IS THE DEVIL. No color change at melting point?!?! C'mon.... :) It's as if aluminum has a mercury complex or something. I think aluminum is just angry that us Yanks
miss spell it's name. :)
?
?
Here¡¯s a question¡..how much effort did it take to remove the old bearings? New ones should install with similar force, and arguably less, since you cleaned up the housing., the bearings are new & clean, and there¡¯s no paint on anything.
?
You don¡¯t need so much heat, as to worry about melting something. That is extreme.
If you use some lube to the bore of the housing, even if you heat it, it will not all go away, unless, again, you get extreme. If you must use a torch, keep the flame away from direct contact with any lube. Burnt lube, whether it¡¯s
oil or grease, takes up space. Put some lube on the outer race of the bearing too. It doesn¡¯t trake a lot. Keep the bearing aligned with the bore when installing. The outer races are radiused, so it¡¯s really not a big deal, and not so easy to start damaging
the housing when installing the bearing.
?
I think some people are making a very simple job into a scary disaster film¡¡
?
Bill
?
?
?
Great idea. However, I don't have a lathe, yet. That's coming in Q1 of 2019. Also, as soon as I sent the last question, I realized the error in my thoughts. If the aluminum is hot enough to sizzle spit, it'll probably burn off the grease. Or at least break
it down past the point of usefulness. Looks like it'll be one or the other. Bearings and seals are in the freezer. :) Now I just need to play with some scrap aluminum and my little MAPP torch to be sure I don't melt the casing...
Weather is too cold to paint anyway. :)
?
?
?
JV,
That makes sense to me. Any issues with following both procedures? Temp and lube?
? I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron - which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing bearings with a piece of threaded rod or a long enough bolt and
some properly sized washers . Sometimes I'll machine a slug that is a slip fit in the bore (with a hole in the center for the rod) to keep the bearing square with the bore . But I don't know what tooling you have available ...
?--
? Snag
?
?
There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it.. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly.
The biggest cause of failure in bearings in general is improper installation, with being dinged from hitting them into place and skewed alignment the main culprits. That's why you never replace bearings as 'preventative maintenance'.
So anything you can do to ease installation is worth doing. The main ones are heating the outside/cooling the inside so less force required to get it in place, along with jigs to push or pull them in squarely and applying the pressure to the correct side of
the bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get the outer to seat) - jv
?
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Bill, I'm notorious for doing just that, ant hills into mountains. I have the case in the house, about 76¡ã f. The bearings are frozen by now. I think with a bit of lube and a some light taping they may just fall into place. If not, and I'm careful, I can back them out and try a bit of heat. Steel, I'm good with. ( I like colors.) Aluminum IS THE DEVIL. No color change at melting point?!?! C'mon.... :) It's as if aluminum has a mercury complex or something. I think aluminum is just angry that us Yanks miss spell it's name. :) Back to the garage! Thanks Darren
?
Here¡¯s a question¡..how much effort did it take to remove the old bearings? New ones should install with similar force, and arguably less, since you cleaned up the housing., the
bearings are new & clean, and there¡¯s no paint on anything. ?
You don¡¯t need so much heat, as to worry about melting something. That is extreme.
If you use some lube to the bore of the housing, even if you heat it, it will not all go away, unless, again, you get extreme. If you must use a torch, keep the flame away from
direct contact with any lube. Burnt lube, whether it¡¯s oil or grease, takes up space. Put some lube on the outer race of the bearing too. It doesn¡¯t trake a lot. Keep the bearing aligned with the bore when installing. The outer races are radiused, so it¡¯s
really not a big deal, and not so easy to start damaging the housing when installing the bearing.
?
I think some people are making a very simple job into a scary disaster film¡¡
?
Bill
?
?
?
Great idea. However, I don't have a lathe, yet. That's coming in Q1 of 2019. Also, as soon as I sent the last question, I realized the error in my thoughts. If the aluminum is hot enough to sizzle spit, it'll probably burn off the grease.
Or at least break it down past the point of usefulness. Looks like it'll be one or the other. Bearings and seals are in the freezer. :) Now I just need to play with some scrap aluminum and my little MAPP torch to be sure I don't melt the casing...
Weather is too cold to paint anyway. :)
?
?
?
JV,
That makes sense to me. Any issues with following both procedures? Temp and lube?
? I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron - which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing bearings with a piece of threaded rod or a long enough bolt and
some properly sized washers . Sometimes I'll machine a slug that is a slip fit in the bore (with a hole in the center for the rod) to keep the bearing square with the bore . But I don't know what tooling you have available ...
?--
? Snag
?
?
There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it.. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly.
The biggest cause of failure in bearings in general is improper installation, with being dinged from hitting them into place and skewed alignment the main culprits. That's why you never replace bearings as 'preventative
maintenance'.
So anything you can do to ease installation is worth doing. The main ones are heating the outside/cooling the inside so less force required to get it in place, along with jigs to push or pull them in squarely and
applying the pressure to the correct side of the bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get the outer to seat) - jv
?
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Here¡¯s a question¡..how much effort did it take to remove the old bearings? New ones should install with similar force, and arguably less, since you cleaned up the housing., the
bearings are new & clean, and there¡¯s no paint on anything. ?
You don¡¯t need so much heat, as to worry about melting something. That is extreme.
If you use some lube to the bore of the housing, even if you heat it, it will not all go away, unless, again, you get extreme. If you must use a torch, keep the flame away from
direct contact with any lube. Burnt lube, whether it¡¯s oil or grease, takes up space. Put some lube on the outer race of the bearing too. It doesn¡¯t trake a lot. Keep the bearing aligned with the bore when installing. The outer races are radiused, so it¡¯s
really not a big deal, and not so easy to start damaging the housing when installing the bearing.
?
I think some people are making a very simple job into a scary disaster film¡¡
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 12:31 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
Great idea. However, I don't have a lathe, yet. That's coming in Q1 of 2019. Also, as soon as I sent the last question, I realized the error in my thoughts. If the aluminum is hot enough to sizzle spit, it'll probably burn off the grease.
Or at least break it down past the point of usefulness. Looks like it'll be one or the other. Bearings and seals are in the freezer. :) Now I just need to play with some scrap aluminum and my little MAPP torch to be sure I don't melt the casing...
Weather is too cold to paint anyway. :)
?
?
?
JV,
That makes sense to me. Any issues with following both procedures? Temp and lube?
? I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron - which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing bearings with a piece of threaded rod or a long enough bolt and
some properly sized washers . Sometimes I'll machine a slug that is a slip fit in the bore (with a hole in the center for the rod) to keep the bearing square with the bore . But I don't know what tooling you have available ...
?--
? Snag
?
?
There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it.. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly.
The biggest cause of failure in bearings in general is improper installation, with being dinged from hitting them into place and skewed alignment the main culprits. That's why you never replace bearings as 'preventative
maintenance'.
So anything you can do to ease installation is worth doing. The main ones are heating the outside/cooling the inside so less force required to get it in place, along with jigs to push or pull them in squarely and
applying the pressure to the correct side of the bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get the outer to seat) - jv
?
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Great idea. However, I don't have a lathe, yet. That's coming in Q1 of 2019. Also, as soon as I sent the last question, I realized the error in my thoughts. If the aluminum is hot enough to sizzle spit, it'll probably burn off the grease. Or at least break it down past the point of usefulness. Looks like it'll be one or the other. Bearings and seals are in the freezer. :) Now I just need to play with some scrap aluminum and my little MAPP torch to be sure I don't melt the casing... Weather is too cold to paint anyway. :) Thanks Darren
?
?
JV,
That makes sense to me. Any issues with
following both procedures? Temp and lube?
Thanks
Darren
? I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron -
which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as
much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing bearings
with a piece of threaded rod or a long enough bolt and some properly
sized washers . Sometimes I'll machine a slug that is a slip fit in
the bore (with a hole in the center for the rod) to keep the bearing
square with the bore . But I don't know what tooling you have
available ...
?--
? Snag
?
There's the whole science of reliability
engineering behind it.. Contrary to popular
belief, properly installed and lubed rolling
element bearing don't wear out, they fail
randomly.
The biggest cause of failure in bearings in
general is improper installation, with being
dinged from hitting them into place and skewed
alignment the main culprits. That's why you
never replace bearings as 'preventative
maintenance'.
So anything you can do to ease installation
is worth doing. The main ones are heating the
outside/cooling the inside so less force
required to get it in place, along with jigs
to push or pull them in squarely and applying
the pressure to the correct side of the
bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get
the outer to seat) - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
I would think that the press in a band saw is quite light, and if any heat is required, it will be minimal if lube is used for assembly. I am speaking from experience.
?
Also, I will agree that a lot of bearing failures are the direct result of poor or incorrect installation. No doubt about that, and I have seen it often.
?
However, they do fail because they wear out. I have seen many, and in applications where their life was predictable, and either they were changed at specific operating hours,
those hours being formulated on past failures, or the particular bearing(s) used, were changed to an different model for the application. I have worked plenty with bearing nerds from Timken, SKF, and others to get that done.
Bearing life is a matter of loads, speeds, environment, housing/shaft fits, and lubrication, as well as installation procedures.
A lot of failures that I saw, were the direct result of engineers missing one of the above, or a piece of equipment was being used in a manner for which it was not actually designed.
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 9:02 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
No problem, each helps the other. In fact making things so hot that it interferes with you ability to align things is counterproductive too. Just do what you feel comfortable with. - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
No problem, each helps the other. In fact making things so hot that it interferes with you ability to align things is counterproductive too. Just do what you feel comfortable with. - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
JV,
That makes sense to me. Any issues with
following both procedures? Temp and lube?
Thanks
Darren
? I saw where JV said the casting is aluminum . Mine is cast iron -
which is still worth heating it up a bit though it won't expand as
much as the aluminum . I have had very good luck installing bearings
with a piece of threaded rod or a long enough bolt and some properly
sized washers . Sometimes I'll machine a slug that is a slip fit in
the bore (with a hole in the center for the rod) to keep the bearing
square with the bore . But I don't know what tooling you have
available ...
?--
? Snag
?
There's the whole science of reliability
engineering behind it.. Contrary to popular
belief, properly installed and lubed rolling
element bearing don't wear out, they fail
randomly.
The biggest cause of failure in bearings in
general is improper installation, with being
dinged from hitting them into place and skewed
alignment the main culprits. That's why you
never replace bearings as 'preventative
maintenance'.
So anything you can do to ease installation
is worth doing. The main ones are heating the
outside/cooling the inside so less force
required to get it in place, along with jigs
to push or pull them in squarely and applying
the pressure to the correct side of the
bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get
the outer to seat) - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
JV, That makes sense to me. Any issues with following both procedures? Temp and lube? Thanks Darren
?
There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly. The biggest cause of failure in bearings in general is improper installation, with being dinged from hitting them into place and skewed alignment the main culprits. That's why you never replace bearings as 'preventative maintenance'. So anything you can do to ease installation is worth doing. The main ones are heating the outside/cooling the inside so less force required to get it in place, along with jigs to push or pull them in squarely and applying the pressure to the correct side of the bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get the outer to seat) - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Sorry Darren, I didn't see the other part of your question, sizzling hot is still only 200-300F? (100-150C) and most paints will stand that if you heat up carefully i.e. move the torch round constantly - jv
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
There's the whole science of reliability engineering behind it. Contrary to popular belief, properly installed and lubed rolling element bearing don't wear out, they fail randomly. The biggest cause of failure in bearings in general is improper installation, with being dinged from hitting them into place and skewed alignment the main culprits. That's why you never replace bearings as 'preventative maintenance'. So anything you can do to ease installation is worth doing. The main ones are heating the outside/cooling the inside so less force required to get it in place, along with jigs to push or pull them in squarely and applying the pressure to the correct side of the bearing (i.e. never push on the inner to get the outer to seat) - jv
|
Sometimes they get flipped inside out. I¡¯ve not had that problem with any made by Lennox, Irwin, or Starrett, but have with a few lower priced creampuffs from Grizzly, and the
Amazonians. Can be the result of how you unwrap it/unroll it.
If it¡¯s not running the right way, easy enough to remove it, and give it a flip inside out.
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 5:19 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Sawblade.com
?
?
Well....since I now am unsure....that is a GREAT question.? I am not the smartest guy in the room, but doesn't it only go on one way?? (Can't figure out without looking at it how to put it on any different, so now I am guessing there are 2 different orientations.)?
Anyway, I actually used their little selector tool for my saw and this was the suggest blade.? It runs just like the other billion 4x6 saws out there.? I will walk out later and take a look.? thanks!? Kris ? ?
|
Well....since I now am unsure....that is a GREAT question.? I am not the smartest guy in the room, but doesn't it only go on one way?? (Can't figure out without looking at it how to put it on any different, so now I am guessing there are 2 different orientations.)? Anyway, I actually used their little selector tool for my saw and this was the suggest blade.? It runs just like the other billion 4x6 saws out there.? I will walk out later and take a look.? thanks!? Kris ? ?
|
Not to be?a smarta$$ here?but is it possible you have the blade?running backwards? ?
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 12/17/18 6:46:25 PM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Sawblade.com ?
?
When it was time to replace my lennox blade, I thought I would give this company a try.? I've seen them advertise in some of the shows I watch and like their story.? (Made in USA.)? Anyway, I ordered what I thought would be the closest blade possible to what I normally use and the price was right.? I typically use a 10-14tpi bi-metal.? It arrived in 2 days I believe.?
Anyway, my first 2 cuts on this were AWFUL.? Maybe 10 times longer than I would expect.? I even stopped cutting to see if something was keeping the saw from lowering.? I have yet to cut anything else but has anyone else used blades from them with success?
I am NOT bagging on the company.? I WANT it to be a good blade and use them forever!? Here is what I ordered:??
Q? 601 Series - Qsaw? M42
Bimetal
??0.5 x 10-14 (0.025) ??@ 5' 4 1/2 "
Kris
|
