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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
I'm not sure how, once you cut the custom angle,? you will connect the
piping. I don't think it will fit into the cut off elbow very well. An
easy way to make an angle other than 90 or 45 degrees with piping is to
use two 90 degree elbows together. You can then set the angle whatever
you like.
Kind of like this: ??????????????????????????? ?? | ? ? ? | ???????????????????????????? ? | ?? ?? |???????? ?__________ ?? _____| ? ? ? | |??????????????????????????????? ? ? ? | | ? ? ? ? _____?? __________| |? ? ? ? |????????? ^ |?? ?? ? |????????? Swivel here to adjust angle |?? ?? ? | I'd also consider using PVC piping. You would have less chance of condensation forming on the piping in the wall. Good luck! Tom |
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Re: Cutting Tungsten of a HF?
hamish haig
My mistake, i misread tungsten as tungsten carbide. Tungsten metal seems soft enough, but has a high UTS. I could not say how it would behave?
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Re: Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
I should have added the following:
This will not be used in a pressurized water line. This will be used for an A/C condensate drain line for a split-type indoor unit. No pressure, just draining the water by gravity through the wall and down into a garden. |
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Re: Cutting Tungsten of a HF?
hamish haig
Diamond bandsaw blades for ceramics are commercially available, might be able to get one made to the right length. No idea about feeds speeds and lubricant but im certain a bimetal blade wont work well at all.?
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Ideas For Holding Copper Water Pipe Fitting
I am looking for ideas on how to hold a 45-degree, 1/2-inch diameter, water pipe fitting for cutting in the middle? at a specific angle. This type of fitting has the flaring at both ends for sweating onto the 1/2-inch diameter copper pipe.? I prefer to cut it with the bandsaw in the horizontal position vs the vertical position, so that I can cut multiple pieces and get the same exact cut. I feel I would not be able to do this freehand in the vertical position. The reason I need to do this is because I need to get angles that are not the standard 45 or 90-degree that are available. Thank you, Chip |
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Re: Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
Hi Jason
The pulleys on these saws are not?a matched pair, the motor pulley is smaller than the gearbox pulley, and you do?have to change the belt tension every time you change gear. The std motor pulley's 3 OD-of-flange measurements are 1.89", 2.15" and 2.55".? This is for an RF128 which has identical motor and?20:1 reduction?gearbox to the RF115.? All these older saws have std NEMA 56?5/8"?shaft diameter on motor and gearbox, some of the newer ones might be different. Measure your blade speed by spirit- or paint-marking the blade at one point next to the teeth, switching on and counting the number of times the mark goes past the guides in a minute.? Multiply that number by 5.4 to get FPM.? If the gearing on yours puts the blade speed at 300FPM?or less, and you cut only mild steel and aluminum, you won't need to change the pulley, you just have to use a bi-metal blade (10-14 TPI is a good start) which can cut both mild steel and aluminum at up to 300FPM (blue-colored carbon steel ones can't). Aluminum can be cut at 400FPM if the motor is strong enough, but that's too fast for mild steel. If you cut stainless or hi-tensile steel you need a low speed in 65- 100FPM range. Then you will need a multi-step pulley.?? I don't think there is anything magical about the speeds they're just Hi Med & Lo.? If you put on any A-section 3-step pulley it'll be ok as long as its slow enough for the slowest cutting material.? Just measure the actual speed as above, and choose according to the material you're cutting. I dispensed with the pulley guard too, as it makes it easier to change gear, but will have to put it back now the grandchildren are in the workshop. Motors on US saws all run 1725rpm,?but the rest of the world runs 1425rpm motors with exactly the same pulley diameters as US saws, we just run slower (50Hz vs 60Hz).?? Check out the Files section of the site (in the header: Conversations Photos Files More) - there's a doc on which motors fit and which don't. You won't get a direct replacement (HP, shaft diameter and length) unless you buy the motor as a spare part. RF are still in business but don't know who represents them in US. Blades are made world wide from blade stock that is 1/2"x 0.025"x 64-1/2" std. The metric blades substitute nearest millimeter size to imperial.? 0.028" can only be some Grizzly employee measuring it wrong or they've got a weird supplier...? Rgds - jv ? |
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Re: Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
Thank you
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Re: Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
Thanks for the info.? I can buy universal 3 attack pulleys if I know the diameters of the pulley to get the right FPM.? ?Or if someone know the ratio of the warm gear.
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Thanks for the info.?
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Re: Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
A quick search indicates motors for these saws run at 1725 RPM (HF, and Grizzly).? My Northern tool 4x6 also runs at 1725 RPM.
I removed my pulley cover because it rattled.? I never get my fingers anywhere near the pulleys during cutting so IMO It's not necessary.?? If your blade currently runs at a FPM (feet per minute) appropriate for the type of metal you cut most frequently you don't need a 3-step pulley.? Look at your Grizzly manual to determine the appropriate FPM for different types of metals and compare to your current set-up.? My saw is not a Grizzly or?Milwaukee rf-11 but the shaft on my motor and gearbox (NorthernTool saw) are both approx .585" diameter.?? You should be able to find the right size pulleys for the shaft diameters on your motor and gearbox with a little bit of research.? Measure them first then call grizzly or do a simple google search (ebay, grainger, mcmaster carr, essentra components, etc.).?? Good luck. ? |
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Re: Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
The blade thickness should be irrelevant, within limits. You may have to re-adjust the blade guide clearances to accommodate the thicker blade. I cona't help with the pulleys.
Richard Marchi
600 Water Street, SW NBU
8-2
Gangplank Marina Slip B-22 Washington, DC 20024 202-255-5524 |
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Re: Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJason, ? I¡¯m not familiar with either the RF-115 or anything from Grizzly so can¡¯t help with the dimensions you asked about.? But for your other questions: ? The motor pulley should definitely be a 3-step of the same three diameters as the pulley that I guess is still on the saw.? Else, you will have to have three belts in order to change speed.? And you want to be able to do that as the optimum speed for example for aluminum is faster than for mild steel, which is faster than for some alloys. ? Common nameplate motor speeds are 1725, 1740 and 1750.? But any ? HP capacitor-start motor with RPM indicated between 1700 and 1800 will be fine. ? At least on my machine, both guide pinch bearing assemblies are adjustable.? So any blade in that range will be OK so long as you adjust the rollers if needed. ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 18:09 To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions ? I'm looking at buying a Milwaukee rf-115 that someone disassembled some items.? Most importantly the motor, guard and gear box pulley.? The motor is not original, but everything else seems to be in good shape.? I read some post here indicating the saw was made by Rong Fu and I downloaded the recommended grizzly manual. Can anyone Tell me if these parts are interchangeable (referenced above)? Or can someone measure the shafts of there grizzle G0622 motor and gear box to see if this is the same??? The motor installed does not have the 3 tier pulley.? I assume I should change this.? I also wanted to very what RPM should be on the motor. Last item.? The nameplate on the saw indicated a blade spec: 1/2" x .025 x 64-1/2.? The grizzly manual indicated a .028 thick blade.? With the .028 blade work? ? Thanks for any help Jason F ? ? |
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Milwaukee rf-115 pulley motor questions
I'm looking at buying a Milwaukee rf-115 that someone disassembled some items.? Most importantly the motor, guard and gear box pulley.? The motor is not original, but everything else seems to be in good shape.? I read some post here indicating the saw was made by Rong Fu and I downloaded the recommended grizzly manual. Can anyone Tell me if these parts are interchangeable (referenced above)? Or can someone measure the shafts of there grizzle G0622 motor and gear box to see if this is the same??? The motor installed does not have the 3 tier pulley.? I assume I should change this.? I also wanted to very what RPM should be on the motor. Last item.? The nameplate on the saw indicated a blade spec: 1/2" x .025 x 64-1/2.? The grizzly manual indicated a .028 thick blade.? With the .028 blade work? Thanks for any help Jason F |
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Re: Have been a member for some time...
ken
Jim, good catch, thank you.
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On 5/10/18 12:33 PM, jim.klessig@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
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Re: Have been a member for some time...
Ken, I am going to have to (partly) disagree with you here.? ?ON the emails I get?(which are digests, which I presume is what Charles is getting), those instructions are NOT at the bottom of the emails.? This is the case for all of the digests I receive. Charles, You need to go to the "Manage My Groups" button, not the "All my Groups", or use that link that Ken gave you. It could also be that Yahoo was having a bad day when you were looking. That seems to be more and more common. |
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Re: Have been a member for some time...
ken
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýCharles, The instructions are at the bottom of every message (included below) You can either do it via the web and select "individual emails"
or send a blank email to 4x6bandsaw-fullfeatured@... Hope this helps, let me know if you need more help. Ken, moderator On 5/9/18 9:59 PM, Charles Brumbelow
mrb37211@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
Now have my HF saw brought back from hibernation. How do I get the group to email messages to me as they are posted? Thought there was a feature within the ¡°My Groups¡± listing which would allow me to change how I look at messages on a group by group basis. But I cannot find it. Possibly my problem is that I¡¯m using an iPhone rather than a Windows computer. Thanks. Charles ------------------------------------ Posted by: Charles Brumbelow ------------------------------------ ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: 4x6bandsaw-digest@... 4x6bandsaw-fullfeatured@... <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 4x6bandsaw-unsubscribe@... <*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to: |
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Have been a member for some time...
Now have my HF saw brought back from hibernation.
How do I get the group to email messages to me as they are posted? Thought there was a feature within the ¡°My Groups¡± listing which would allow me to change how I look at messages on a group by group basis. But I cannot find it. Possibly my problem is that I¡¯m using an iPhone rather than a Windows computer. Thanks. Charles |
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Re: Gearbox bearing replacement
Just re-read the post and see a mistake.
The gearbox bearings are flush with the outer edges of the casting (its tapered), so you'll have to use a 1/2" drive socket or similar, just a bit smaller than the bearing OD, to pull the bearing in rather than washers.? Thou (or microns) matter here.? Sorry - jv |
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Re: Gearbox bearing replacement
Hi Michael/Ralph Michael, I understand your concern about the bearing spacing and position but think it¡¯s probably not too much of an issue, as most things can be adjusted.? The position of the shafts in their bearings affects the clearance between the worm and brass gear and the end position of the output shaft determines where the drive band-wheel sits, so affects the tracking of the blade. I¡¯ve never removed my gearbox input shaft but have had to change the bearings on the output shaft.? I removed them the same way Bill did.? The bearings are a tighter fit in the casting than on the shaft, so I drew the new ones into the heated casting with a bit of all-thread and thick washers, so they were flush both sides, then tapped the shaft back through. I can¡¯t remember which side I re-fitted the shaft from but think I might have mounted the brass gear before doing so, as it would have been easier to pin the gear to the shaft that way. Seem to recall the pin hole wasn¡¯t on centre, so the gear only fitted one way. ? The curve of the brass gear¡¯s teeth should be central over the worm, when the boss of the brass gear just touches the bearing inner race.? This is because the drive band-wheel is located in its proper position by a spacer (#11 in the diagram in the Clarke Metalworker manual that¡¯s in the files section ) between the inner face of the drive band-wheel¡¯s boss and the adjacent bearing inner race, when the inner face of the brass gear is against the other bearing¡¯s inner race. If the brass gear isn¡¯t against that inner bearing the output shaft could float axially through the bearings and the drive band-wheel wouldn¡¯t be in the right position to track the blade properly. ? If your brass gear is not centralized over the worm in this position, then the output shaft bearing at the inner face of the gearbox needs to either be pressed in further, or you space the gear off the bearing with shim washers. The length of spacer #11 can be changed to suit if needs be. Actually, to get everything in the right position you need to mount the gearbox input shaft first, as the axial position of the worm, in the direction of the input shaft, needs to be aligned centrally about the output shaft¡¯s centre first. Again, I think you are better to pull the bearings into the casting first, rather than assemble the bearings on the shaft and press the unit in. On my saw, both bearings on the input shaft are flush with the edges of the casting as delivered from the factory. There are no steps or lands to position the shaft, that I know of, it¡¯s just maintained in position by friction of the shaft in the bearings. The reason to fit the bearings to the casting first, is that the area of contact between the bearing outer race and the casting is much bigger than the contact area between the shaft and the inner race.? Even if the fit is the same on both sides of the bearing, you need a lot more force the fit the bearings to the casting than the shaft to the bearings.? If fitted as a unit the bearings will slide on the shaft, especially as there are no lands on the shaft to keep the bearings and seal in position, unless you put spacers in between the bearing¡¯s and seal¡¯s outer races. Putting spacers in is probably best engineering practice, but these saws were not made that way initially, and the loads on the bearings are not high, so the bearings last ok after tapping the shaft through. Last of all remount the blade, tension it and then run the saw.? The back of the blade should just NOT touch the rim on the band-wheel (~0.020¡± (0.5mm) clearance is good).? Shift the band-wheel on its shaft to get this clearance and either reduce or lengthen the #11 spacer to suit (5/8¡±ID ?plastic electrical conduit or washers makes good spacer material).? Rgds - jv |
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Re: Gearbox bearing replacement
Ralph Hulslander
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out?the back with a brass drift" At least now I have a direction, thanks. Sure would be nice to see a video. Ralph On Thu, Apr 19, 2018 at 11:00 AM, 'W. Smith' wsmith1417@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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