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Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax
Jim E.
Many do cut dry. I'm' 50-50: if it's a "large" piece, I'll lube with
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wax, else I'll let it go as is. I'd love to have a mess-less drip system, but the setup would probably be too much for my meager usage. Frankly, I don't know what wax really does - it lubes, granted, but to me it's not a good coolant not is it good for chip evacuation (I've seen 'em come back around and stack up, wax 'n all, at the beginning of the cut). Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Subject: Re: Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax |
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Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax
Jim,
Got a chance to open my saw today... and yes, there were a lot of chips on and around the wheels. I don't know if these will effect the operation of the saw. Seems that I had these chips with other lubes, but don't remember if the amount was less or the same. It would be nice if we could cut every thing without lube! 8-) Leo (in sunny pearland) |
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Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax
Jim E.
Leo:
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Thanks for your input. I'll try some, using (carefully) an old storm candle. (Thought you were going to wax on there, for a moment). Do you find, though, that wax tends to take the cuttings back into the pulleys, where as dry or liquids deposit them just past the cutting area? That worries me, but I guess if it were a true problem wax-based lubes wouldn't exist, right? Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 10:08:47 -0500 (CDT) |
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Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax
The paraffin wax that I use, is a product called Gulfwax, a household
paraffin wax. I used it because it was my wife had it in the pantry and it is in convenient blocks. At normal room temperature, it is a solid. Toilet base seals are viscous at room temperatures. It would be pretty messy and difficult to handle. Normal bee's wax is solid at room temperatures. The beauty (in my humble opinion) is that paraffin is easy to handle, melts because of the friction of rubbing against the moving blade, and then solidifies when the cutting is over. (easy clean up) The precaution of avoiding hands close to the moving blade is most important. i.e. Don't use a small piece of material! Allow lots of space between you and the moving blade! A candle has a wick that could catch on the blade with nasty results! Discard small remnants of the wax. (or you could collect them and melt and mold them into lube-sticks) 8-) Leo (excuse the soap box-ing) |
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Re: Parrafin vs. Beeswax
sned1
If trying to keep a somewhat decent shop and not making a mess, i
thought I should look into the stick-type lubricants instead of cutting fluids. So, has anyone ever used any of the following when cutting? Harbor Freight has "TapStick" (rhymes with chapstick, i suppose), $2.99 for .5oz. LPS/Tapmatic Edge Lube (13 oz stick), $9.95@KBC Tools "Cut-Ease", also from KBC (1# stick), $8.25 If I ever get a job again, I might do a test comparing these three, a $.99 candle, and a toilet donut for fun. :) I'm voting for the donut, of course. Thanks! |
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Parrafin vs. Beeswax
Jim E.
Interesting - both of you are describing (I believe) white paraffin vs.
the yellow, beeswax-based cutting lubes. Have either of you tried both, i.e., compared them, or just used it 'cuz it's handy? (BTW: the large toilet-to-floor donut washers are beeswax). Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! 4x6bandsaw@... wrote: ___________________________________________________________ Message: 5 |
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Re: Check this out...
Mike Percy
开云体育I let
it cut?into a block of parafin, so as to lube both sides.? Works well,
but be careful!
?
Mike
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Re: Check this out...
Jim E.
When you lube with wax, how do you do it - just press it against the
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blase while its running, let it cut through it, rub it on while it's not running, ...??? I ask 'cuz I just press the tube against the blade while it's running, but if there's better ways, I'm open. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 21:22:24 -0500 (CDT) |
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Re: Check this out...
I must have not made myself clear! The problem with the Saw had nothing
to do with the Cutoff Switch. The problem was that the Blade was jamming in the Cut in the Material. The Switch, I was referring to, is in the Motor. It is a Centrifugal Switch that Capacitor Start Induction Motors have. This Switch is closed when the motor is not running, When power is applied to the motor, Electrical Current flows through the Start Winding and causes the motor to start spinning. When the running speed is obtained, the Internal Switch opens and no more Current flows through the Start Winding. (if current flows for an extended time in the start winding, the motor will overheat and be ruined) When the Blade would hang in the Material, the Motor would slow down because of the Load. When that happened, the Internal Start Switch would close, and the additional torque from the Start Winding would cause the Motor to pull the Blade through the Material. Then the Motor would come back to speed and the Switch would open until the jam occured again on the next pass of the Blade. (the clicking noise i heard was this switch, closing and opening)) The only time I have found that the Cutoff Switch did not function right and cut the Saw off at the end of the cut, is when parts of the Vise and the Blade Guides touched each other, and prevented the Frame from pressing on the Cutoff Switch. Excuse the loooong post! Leo (pearland, texas)) |
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New poll for 4x6bandsaw
Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
4x6bandsaw group: Preffered blade TPI? o 6 o 10 o 14 o 24 o 10/14 To vote, please visit the following web page: Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups web site listed above. Thanks! |
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Check this out...
Hey Guys!
A word of caution... Ours saws will shut off after the cut is over, so we can go about our business. Whoa! that's what I thought! I was cutting a 1" x 4" bar of aluminum. (i don't know the alloy number) I was using a 14 tpi, bi-metal blade at the middle speed, and almost full tension on the spring adjustment. I was cutting dry. Lucky for me, I was close by. The saw started making a different noise, and I checked on it. When the welded spot on the blade passed the stock, the different noise would occur. Next the blade started stalling and the motor made a clicking noise (the start switch would open and close). I shut the saw off. If I had not, the motor would most likely would have gone up in smoke! I started the saw up again and lubricated the blade with paraffin. I had no more stalling, even with another complete cut. Hope this helps, Leo (in pearland, home of lots of fig trees) |
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Re: Cutting Oils
Depends on what kind of "anti-freeze" you use. I would not recommend
Ethylene Glycol because it is toxic and I would agree with what that person said in the case of EG. However, there is a safe anti-freeze called Propylene Glycol. It is used to keep pipes in RV's, trailers and seasonal cabins from bursting in the winter. It is safe, its in tooth paste (keep that in mind when the local news does an expose to frighten people, "We find your toothpaste contains antifreeze, details at 11", one of the local stations did that a couple of years ago) and regulated by the FDA as a food coloring or something. I just don't know how good of a lube it would make since I don't have any experience with it, other than we use it in the chilled water systems at the base I work at. Paul --- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "sned1" <sned1@y...> wrote: Oops, update. Someone told me not to use Anti-freeze. This canrust. :) Please disregard the following sentence in the previous message.half anti-freeze, half water mix.(remember, don't do this!) |
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Blades--tensions, and choices.
sned1
One of the previous messages I posted had a link to an article that
mentioned two things I don't always hear about. One is blade tension, the other is blade selection. I didn't know anything about metalworking till recently, and still know less than most. So you can ignore me if you want here :) In any case, I too was wondering about the blade tension since the manual says to get some really large number for it. The article said that to get to the appropriate range, he had to crank the tension gauge as hard as he could go, with a shop rag, in order to come close. that's pretty hard. I wasn't sure about that, and I'll have to ensure that it's done from now on and see what happens. Second, was blade selection. I think most of us have a Bi-metal blade of some type on our saws by now. If not, btw, get at least one. I don't know what kind of tpi blades you normally get, but I just got the 10/14 one. After reading more about bandsaws tonight, I definantely am going to get a 6tpi bi-metal blade for cutting anything over 1/2". This is the smallest tpi bi-metal blade I can find in our size. Hope I'm not boring you all off with my drivel :) I'll quit for the night now. |
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4x6 Bandsaw tips
sned1
Here's some info from the usenet archives of rec.crafts.metalworking
on our beloved 4x6 bandsaws. Dunno if any of you all have read this, but it's good info anyways. 8&threadm=6a5p28%246te11%40hpcc883.corp.hp.com&rnum=6&prev=/groups% 3Fq%3D4x6%2Bbandsaw%2Bblades%2Bgroup%253Arec.crafts.metalworking%26hl% 3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8 Gack that's an awful looking link. If that doesn't come through, go to groups.google.com. From there, get to rec.crafts.metalworking (click through rec., then to rec.crafts., then to rec.crafts.metalworking) and search for "4x6 bandsaw lessons". There should be two results, the first one being the appropriate thread. |
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Re: Cutting Oils
sned1
Oops, update. Someone told me not to use Anti-freeze. This can
cause all sorts of health type problems, and may also cause rust. :) Please disregard the following sentence in the previous message. Thanks. --- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "sned1" <sned1@y...> wrote: (remember, don't do this!) |
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Cutting Oils
sned1
Ok, I searched on groups.google.com for some tips on this and found
there's no single good answer for a home-use cutting oil. There were a few things that stood out: Don't use an oil with sulfur. Apparently a lot of tapping fluids have high sulfur content. can cause long term problems, etc. When cutting steel, using oil is almost always better than not. If you have add water, add distilled water instead of tap. less mystery components get in there. Here's some names that got mentioned for usable cutting oils. Tapmatic "Natural" and "Do Drill" @ brownell's both got a thumbs up for home use, albiet in relation to milling. Lenox Band-Ade was mentioned by someone who'd built a coolant setup into the stand he made for his bandsaw. (see: 8&threadm=76g9g0%241kf%241%40brokaw.wa.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fhl% 3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26q%3Dbandsaw%2Bhome%2Bcutting% 2Boil%2Bgroup%253Arec.crafts.metalworking Post #14 by Ken Mayer) hope that URL works... A number of home-brew solutions were also listed, including a half anti-freeze, half water mix. #1 machine oil also made the list, as well as cheap hydraulic oil cut 1:1 with mineral oil. Lastly, someone mentioned candle, carnuba, or other paste wax as a decent lube (albiet not oil). Apply to blade every few passes. I've done this with aluminum, and it works ok. Heat of the blade makes the wax just soft enough to rub on easily. Never timed the cut, though, or done this with steel. In short, as with many things in my hobbies, there are about 648 ways to do something, two of which are wrong, and the rest could all be right, depending. If anyone out there wants to add to this, please...I'll welcome any advice you can send. |
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Re: Coolant systems
sned1
I asked about that once earlier. never got around to trying it, cuz
i don't cut alot of steel. --- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "Goodjohn, Paul" <goodjohpa@t...> wrote:hasI know that this has probably been beaten to death earlier, but anyone rigged the Harbor Freight coolant system one of our saws?I'm looking at doing a lot of steel cutting, and it struck me as agood choice. I think you may be right about the toxicity. Perhaps rec.crafts.machining might have some interesting info on cutting oils, I'll have to check. --- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "marvinh336" <harnerma@k...> wrote: Cooling:to put down a drain at home. Therefore, what I did was get one thosethat was wide enough to fit below the saw. I use the set up to cut 31/2 inch solid steel directing dripping water onto the saw blade andjust recirculate the water. I put the pump itself in an inverted plasticchips getting into the pump intake. To my amasement, it decreased cuttingdo was constantly wash away or clear the fine chips from cutting. Ithen realized what I was doing beforehand, was cutting over and over theprevent rust, add TSP to the water. What I do is just clean up and dry |
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Re: Coolant systems
marvinh336
--- In 4x6bandsaw@y..., "Goodjohn, Paul" <goodjohpa@t...> wrote:
I know that this has probably been beaten to death earlier, but hasanyone rigged the Harbor Freight coolant system one of our saws? I'm looking at doing a lot of steel cutting, and it struck me as a good choice. Cooling: When I looked at cutting oils, they all seemed fairly toxic for me to put down a drain at home. Therefore, what I did was get one those cheap HF garden pumps, some clear tubing and a large plastic pan that was wide enough to fit below the saw. I use the set up to cut 3 1/2 inch solid steel directing dripping water onto the saw blade and just recirculate the water. I put the pump itself in an inverted plastic bottle with the bottom and side hole cutouts to prevent the fine chips getting into the pump intake. To my amasement, it decreased cutting time from literally hours to about 45 minutes. What I saw the water do was constantly wash away or clear the fine chips from cutting. I then realized what I was doing beforehand, was cutting over and over the same fine chips and no wonder it took so long. Others to help prevent rust, add TSP to the water. What I do is just clean up and dry everything afterwards. A little oil would also, likely help. MarvH |
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