Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hello John
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The photos are loaded on the website under Rod's Photos which is my build. Uploaded when I initially purchased the saw approx 15 plus years ago. I originally purchased two?of the cylinders on surplus.com & sold one of my kits to a group member. They were never available after that which was disappointing because they cost $20. The function is acceptable, my blades have a good longevity & great cut quality. I am very happy with my saw, its treated me well. I love all the clever mods everyone comes up with.?
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---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Vreede" <vreededesign@...> To: " [email protected] Group Moderators" < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2020 13:25:58 +1300
Hi Eloy
Can you show us the downfeed control you made - hot topic right now - jv
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On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 11:00 AM rangerod1 < rangerod@...> wrote:
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Here is my shelve stand for my saw. I set it upside down to make the bottom of the shelve a coolant drip tank. Just welded up the seams to make it water tight. I never installed a coolant system but it is ready if I decide to add it. Been cutting like this for fifteen years with bees wax. Hope this helps.
?
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---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Vreede" < vreededesign@...> To: " [email protected] Group Moderators" < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2020 16:23:07 +1300
I know you have your cylinder already Dave but for others contemplating fitting hydraulic downfeed you can often get a pneumatic (air) cylinder for nothing from a local process plant that they throw away because they can't be bothered replacing the seals. Seals don't have to be good to work in this application
Most plants processing anything from metal to food use air power for control and regularly trash old air cylinders.?
?They're rated to 10bar (150psi) so anything over 3/4" diameter and 4-6" stroke will work and they'll work on oil as easily as air - jv
?
I've been wavering back and forth about making my own cylinder or buying it.? ?I determined it would be more expensive to make it because I would have to buy the drill rod, the aluminum, the cylinder, etc. to recreate the Halligan's design.
I saw the hydraulic down feed from SawCyl.? ?I believe that he is using a Parker cylinder:? I talked to the guys at Parker and I believe the SawCyl cylinder is a 1.25DXPSRS04.00 and the part number is 1PSR00010153.? ?I ordered the cylinder from Parker for about $63.? I'll still have over $100 into the retrofit.? ?I am eventually wanting to mount the saw on a rolling cart (a three shelf metal cart) and keep both the spring and the hydraulic cylinder.? The cart allows a great deal more flexibility for mounting the cylinder and keeping the spring.? ?The table is also a great way to raise the height of the saw, control the saw chips and have a place to put your metal.? ?I have a dedicated vertical band saw and this is my dedicated horizontal band saw.
Dave
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hi Eloy Can you show us the downfeed control you made - hot topic right now - jv
On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 11:00 AM rangerod1 < rangerod@...> wrote: ?
Here is my shelve stand for my saw. I set it upside down to make the bottom of the shelve a coolant drip tank. Just welded up the seams to make it water tight. I never installed a coolant system but it is ready if I decide to add it. Been cutting like this for fifteen years with bees wax. Hope this helps.
?
?
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Vreede" < vreededesign@...> To: " [email protected] Group Moderators" < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2020 16:23:07 +1300
I know you have your cylinder already Dave but for others contemplating fitting hydraulic downfeed you can often get a pneumatic (air) cylinder for nothing from a local process plant that they throw away because they can't be bothered replacing the seals. Seals don't have to be good to work in this application
Most plants processing anything from metal to food use air power for control and regularly trash old air cylinders.?
?They're rated to 10bar (150psi) so anything over 3/4" diameter and 4-6" stroke will work and they'll work on oil as easily as air - jv
?
I've been wavering back and forth about making my own cylinder or buying it.? ?I determined it would be more expensive to make it because I would have to buy the drill rod, the aluminum, the cylinder, etc. to recreate the Halligan's design.
I saw the hydraulic down feed from SawCyl.? ?I believe that he is using a Parker cylinder:? I talked to the guys at Parker and I believe the SawCyl cylinder is a 1.25DXPSRS04.00 and the part number is 1PSR00010153.? ?I ordered the cylinder from Parker for about $63.? I'll still have over $100 into the retrofit.? ?I am eventually wanting to mount the saw on a rolling cart (a three shelf metal cart) and keep both the spring and the hydraulic cylinder.? The cart allows a great deal more flexibility for mounting the cylinder and keeping the spring.? ?The table is also a great way to raise the height of the saw, control the saw chips and have a place to put your metal.? ?I have a dedicated vertical band saw and this is my dedicated horizontal band saw.
Dave
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
?
Here is my shelve stand for my saw. I set it upside down to make the bottom of the shelve a coolant drip tank. Just welded up the seams to make it water tight. I never installed a coolant system but it is ready if I decide to add it. Been cutting like this for fifteen years with bees wax. Hope this helps.
?
?
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "John Vreede" <vreededesign@...> To: " [email protected] Group Moderators" < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2020 16:23:07 +1300
I know you have your cylinder already Dave but for others contemplating fitting hydraulic downfeed you can often get a pneumatic (air) cylinder for nothing from a local process plant that they throw away because they can't be bothered replacing the seals. Seals don't have to be good to work in this application
Most plants processing anything from metal to food use air power for control and regularly trash old air cylinders.?
?They're rated to 10bar (150psi) so anything over 3/4" diameter and 4-6" stroke will work and they'll work on oil as easily as air - jv
?
I've been wavering back and forth about making my own cylinder or buying it.? ?I determined it would be more expensive to make it because I would have to buy the drill rod, the aluminum, the cylinder, etc. to recreate the Halligan's design.
I saw the hydraulic down feed from SawCyl.? ?I believe that he is using a Parker cylinder:? I talked to the guys at Parker and I believe the SawCyl cylinder is a 1.25DXPSRS04.00 and the part number is 1PSR00010153.? ?I ordered the cylinder from Parker for about $63.? I'll still have over $100 into the retrofit.? ?I am eventually wanting to mount the saw on a rolling cart (a three shelf metal cart) and keep both the spring and the hydraulic cylinder.? The cart allows a great deal more flexibility for mounting the cylinder and keeping the spring.? ?The table is also a great way to raise the height of the saw, control the saw chips and have a place to put your metal.? ?I have a dedicated vertical band saw and this is my dedicated horizontal band saw.
Dave
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hi guys,
?Thankyou all for the great response to the picture of my hydraulic cylinder,
Bill B,?
? Thanks for the pressure gauge idea, thanks also for the pressure setting, a great starting point & the link to the info, plenty to digest there after a quick skim!?
Rob M,
? I did find the Sawcyl site, it was tempting to buy it, but exchange rates & freight to Downunder had my wallet twitching!
Jim L
?The article has a bill of material, there are no part numbers as such. If you watch Halligans video he goes into the material sizes etc, just doesn¡¯t specify all the hole layouts etc, although I¡¯m pretty sure you could work it out.
The end blocks are 2¡± x 2¡± x 1-1/2¡±, I made one of mine longer as the needle valve has 1/4 BSP thread not 1/8¡±. The cylinder is 1-1/2¡± tube, I choose ali, the piston rod is 1/2¡± silver steel, because I had some. The piston is 1¡± long ali rod turned to be a couple of thou less than the tube ID. The whole unit uses 4 tension rods using 10-24 nuts to hold all together. I used short lengths of 5mm threaded rod in 8mm ali rod with 60mm button head cap screws to hold mine together. The blanking plugs elbow are 1/8¡± NPT, as above the needle valve is 1/4¡± BSP.....mine is a pneumatic one, 8mm tube fitting, ?you have to make sure that it controls the flow in the right direction! The on off valve is one I ¡° found¡± in the bin at the last place I worked. I then had to get an 8mm to 1/4 adapter as the valve & elbow are 1/4¡± tube. Various nuts bolts etc. Once again Halligan covers these & also the o-rings that he used . Hope that is of some help.
Bart I,
?A lot longer than it should! I went off to get the ali material before going on holiday in February, as usual forgot some bits so figured after getting back from holiday I¡¯d pick up the missing bits, I was straight back into normal work followed by 2 weeks solid, then Covid hit! Once we got out of lockdown & I hoped I had figured out how to cut internal o-ring grooves...oh & making the cutter to do so, it didn¡¯t take too long. It was a fun project. I guess you could build it in a weekend
Dave,
?The material cost wasn¡¯t great, I brought enough 2x2 to make 3.....just incase, the tube & tension rod material plus some spare for the may come in handy pile, the same for the piston material. I had the threaded rod & in my case 12 mm silver steel. The rod end, 12mm female, was less than $20NZ, if I was doing it again I would use a 10 mm male one as the piston rod was threaded 12mm which would tear the o-ring apart threading the block over it. Where I got the o-rings from has a minimum charge....I have since found a cheeper supplier! ?Sorry I didn¡¯t keep a list ?of how much I spent, but would think if I didn¡¯t buy extra material that all up around $50 to $60 NZ. The silver steel (here this is sold in 1 meter lengths, I used just over 1/2 of a length) & rod end would be the bulk of that.
Hope that¡¯s helpful guys
Cheers Kerrin
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hi John,
I ordered my cylinder and it should be here next week.? ?I just wanted to provide a part number for those who are contemplating purchasing a cylinder.? ?I don't think $64 is bad for a new cylinder.
I agree, if you have access to an excess cylinder, use it.? ?I like the Parker cylinder for it has two ports on the shaft side of the cylinder.? ?This is exactly like the one used (I'm pretty sure) by SawCyl which allows you to have the gas accumulate on the non shaft side of the piston (which makes for a very uniform descent of the saw).? ?The stroke required is something like 2.75 inches (if I recall correctly) and the displaced volume of the shaft is equivalent to 1" of piston travel.? ?A 4" cylinder is a nice size for getting the proper displacement and a 1.25" diameter piston is a nice compromise for keeping your pressures down for the insertion fittings and check valve.
I think you are correct though, if you use ATF, most cylinders should be seals compatible with most the fluid.? ?ATF is not compatible with a lot of the plastics on the john gust insertion fittings though.? ?I am not going to use copper tubing, but I would like to use plastic tubing, have a gage, a ball valve, check valve, and needle valve.? ?The elbows, Tee's, needle valve, and ball valve should be metal.? ?The check valve can be nylon (which is compatible with ATF).
Dave
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
I know you have your cylinder already Dave but for others contemplating fitting hydraulic downfeed you can often get a pneumatic (air) cylinder for nothing from a local process plant that they throw away because they can't be bothered replacing the seals. Seals don't have to be good to work in this application Most plants processing anything from metal to food use air power for control and regularly trash old air cylinders.? ?They're rated to 10bar (150psi) so anything over 3/4" diameter and 4-6" stroke will work and they'll work on oil as easily as air - jv
I've been wavering back and forth about making my own cylinder or buying it.? ?I determined it would be more expensive to make it because I would have to buy the drill rod, the aluminum, the cylinder, etc. to recreate the Halligan's design.
I saw the hydraulic down feed from SawCyl.? ?I believe that he is using a Parker cylinder:? I talked to the guys at Parker and I believe the SawCyl cylinder is a 1.25DXPSRS04.00 and the part number is 1PSR00010153.? ?I ordered the cylinder from Parker for about $63.? I'll still have over $100 into the retrofit.? ?I am eventually wanting to mount the saw on a rolling cart (a three shelf metal cart) and keep both the spring and the hydraulic cylinder.? The cart allows a great deal more flexibility for mounting the cylinder and keeping the spring.? ?The table is also a great way to raise the height of the saw, control the saw chips and have a place to put your metal.? ?I have a dedicated vertical band saw and this is my dedicated horizontal band saw.
Dave
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
I've been wavering back and forth about making my own cylinder or buying it.? ?I determined it would be more expensive to make it because I would have to buy the drill rod, the aluminum, the cylinder, etc. to recreate the Halligan's design.
I saw the hydraulic down feed from SawCyl.? ?I believe that he is using a Parker cylinder:? I talked to the guys at Parker and I believe the SawCyl cylinder is a 1.25DXPSRS04.00 and the part number is 1PSR00010153.? ?I ordered the cylinder from Parker for about $63.? I'll still have over $100 into the retrofit.? ?I am eventually wanting to mount the saw on a rolling cart (a three shelf metal cart) and keep both the spring and the hydraulic cylinder.? The cart allows a great deal more flexibility for mounting the cylinder and keeping the spring.? ?The table is also a great way to raise the height of the saw, control the saw chips and have a place to put your metal.? ?I have a dedicated vertical band saw and this is my dedicated horizontal band saw.
Dave
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Excellent job.? I have watched the videos but thought that the process was overly involved.? How long did it take for your build?? ?I was hoping to find a simpler solution using maybe an old trunk air lift or something along those lines.?
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 01:41 AM, kerrin.galvin wrote:
Halligans YouTube channe
Kerrin: I like it. do you have a Parts list with Part numbers?
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
The reason for cutting it with the Vee on top is that it is a stable orientation while you are positioning the material prior to tightening the vise, ?after the cut starts the thickness being cut is the same all of the way down, and as the cut finishes it remains stable and will drop cleanly into the bucket or box collecting the cutoffs.? So you only have to be present to start a fresh cut.? And as most of you know, the reason for lowering the blade gently and only after starting the motor is that some angle has a sharp corner and may break off teeth or stall the motor if you lower the blade onto the work and then start the motor. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Vreede
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2020 13:31
To: [email protected] Group Moderators
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder? Great Post Bill! Thanks for the article reference. Shall put a gauge in mine. Its a visual monitor that the saw is still cutting right. BTW. All the info I've seen says lay angle vee up on the vice table and warn you to start carefully (I think because it doubles the thickness being cut and angle is thin for most saw blades TPI), but I cut a lot of 1"x1/4" angle w/10-14 bimetal blade and alway cut it with the legs against the fixed jaw, vee horizontal. Cuts way faster as Rick pointed out a while back and no need to worry at the start. - jv ? Kerrin: Nice job on your feed cylinder. FWIW, I also installed a cylinder based on the Machinist's Workshop article, and made the improvements shown in . Mr. Vreede makes a good point about the limitations of this hydraulic feed cylinder design.? What do you do when the forces needed to make a cut change as the cut is made and eventually the cut stalls? My crude solution was to install a pressure gage downstream of the needle valve -- and in rare instances to tweak the valve to maintain a steady pressure.? For most normal cuts, I set the valve to provide about 40psig at the start of the cut and leave it there.?The pressure stays about the same throughout the cut.
But is rare instances, I will need to open (or close) the needle valve to maintain the 40 psig.? An example:? Let's say you are cutting stainless angle iron and for some reason you place the piece in the vise with the angle down.? So you zip through the vertical leg and the cut stalls as it starts on the horizontal leg.
? In this cut the gage will stay at about 40 psig through the vertical cut, then drop drastically as it enters the horizontal cut.? It's then that I will open the needle valve to ensure the cut keeps going. ? I got the idea after reading covering feed control of the horizontal band saw. ? HTH,? Bill
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Great Post Bill! Thanks for the article reference. Shall put a gauge in mine. Its a visual monitor that the saw is still cutting right. BTW. All the info I've seen says lay angle vee up on the vice table and warn you to start carefully (I think because it doubles the thickness being cut and angle is thin for most saw blades TPI), but I cut a lot of 1"x1/4" angle w/10-14 bimetal blade and alway cut it with the legs against the fixed jaw, vee horizontal. Cuts way faster as Rick pointed out a while back and no need to worry at the start. - jv
Kerrin:
Nice job on your feed cylinder.
FWIW, I also installed a cylinder based on the Machinist's Workshop article, and made the improvements shown in .
Mr. Vreede makes a good point about the limitations of this hydraulic feed cylinder design.? What do you do when the forces needed to make a cut change as the cut is made and eventually the cut stalls?
My crude solution was to install a pressure gage downstream of the needle valve -- and in rare instances to tweak the valve to maintain a steady pressure.?
For most normal cuts, I set the valve to provide about 40psig at the start of the cut and leave it there.?The pressure stays about the same throughout the cut.
But is rare instances, I will need to open (or close) the needle valve to maintain the 40 psig.? An example:? Let's say you are cutting stainless angle iron and for some reason you place the piece in the vise with the angle down.? So you zip through the vertical leg and the cut stalls as it starts on the horizontal leg.
?
In this cut the gage will stay at about 40 psig through the vertical cut, then drop drastically as it enters the horizontal cut.? It's then that I will open the needle valve to ensure the cut keeps going.
?
I got the idea after reading covering feed control of the horizontal band saw.
?
HTH,? Bill
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
When I started this process, I found the 12" Craftsman bandsaw (1950's vintage, probably) for $40, and it was a stretch to afford it. I accumulated shafts, bearings, and sheaves that would let me slow it down to do metal cutting. If I did the calculations correctly (not be be betting on!) I could slow it down enough. Figuring out how to do that, and keep the fast speeds for woodworking was a bit more difficulty.?
I accumulated some more sheaves, bearings, and shafts, but the setup was going to be complex. I have feline and canine companions, and trying to guard it from them, or them from it, added additional complexity. Then I acquired a stash of motors my work trashed. One 3phase gearmotor, which would work fine with a VFD, but I wanted it for my Lewis Shaper, a DC brushed motor, which AFAICT, was not, in fact, bad, but requires a couple of hundred dollars worth of power supply, and a monstrous 1phase 1750rpm motor that may require 240vac, and I'll have to rewire my shop some more to make it work.?
I've been mulling possible combinations and doing calculations for several years when I have a few spare moments to fiddle with it. I got the 4x6 H/V bandsaw from Craigslist for $100. It needs a rebuild, has been sitting out in the weather for some time. Motor started up, and tripped the inverter the seller was running it on. Got it home, found the motor is BAD! Been collecting test equipment and textbooks on checking motors, and figuring out what's wrong. I got the VFD from Ebay, for cheap, used, good, USA TECO. Works well. Buying a bunch of 12VDC batteries looks like maybe the cheapest way to go for the DC motor. Somewhere here I have a 48VDC power supply that might let me check that motor, though it won't be at full speed, and won't be variable.?
I've also got six or seven other motors to check out. And the honey-do list is interfering, but if I use the 12" bandsaw just for wood, make the motor mounting plate for the shaper, and I have photos of my friend Bill Hinkle's Lewis for a clue on how to do that with the gearmotor & VFD. I've got an HF portable bandsaw I can use to cut metal until I can fix the 4x6. It's going to take some more patience, but I can see the future. Now all I have to do is hang on by my fingernails until I can get to it. ;)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Tuesday, October 13, 2020, 10:17:43 AM CDT, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
Bill in OKC, I put a on my Delta 14" wood band saw.With the Brushless motor I can vary the speed so I can also cut metal!
Paul:? I just re-read your message.? You are right.? I stand corrected.? Bill
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Bill in OKC, I put a on my Delta 14" wood band saw.With the Brushless motor I can vary the speed so I can also cut metal!
Paul:? I just re-read your message.? You are right.? I stand corrected.? Bill
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
In your example of cutting a angle it is better to place the angle so the toes of the angle are down and cut the corner first. Paul M
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
I ended up purchasing the SawCyl hydraulic downfeed kit with pressure gauge. I also find the pressure gauge very useful in allowing adjustments for maintaining constant, even pressure through the entire cut. Works great.
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Kerrin:
Nice job on your feed cylinder.
FWIW, I also installed a cylinder based on the Machinist's Workshop article, and made the improvements shown in .
Mr. Vreede makes a good point about the limitations of this hydraulic feed cylinder design.? What do you do when the forces needed to make a cut change as the cut is made and eventually the cut stalls?
My crude solution was to install a pressure gage downstream of the needle valve -- and in rare instances to tweak the valve to maintain a steady pressure.?
For most normal cuts, I set the valve to provide about 40psig at the start of the cut and leave it there.?The pressure stays about the same throughout the cut.
But is rare instances, I will need to open (or close) the needle valve to maintain the 40 psig.? An example:? Let's say you are cutting stainless angle iron and for some reason you place the piece in the vise with the angle down.? So you zip through the vertical leg and the cut stalls as it starts on the horizontal leg.
?
In this cut the gage will stay at about 40 psig through the vertical cut, then drop drastically as it enters the horizontal cut.? It's then that I will open the needle valve to ensure the cut keeps going.
?
I got the idea after reading covering feed control of the horizontal band saw.
?
HTH,? Bill
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hi Bill,
?Sounds like you and computers get on well! I have days were I hate them! Oh I also learn lots of new computer terms from my wife when things don¡¯t go the way she thinks they should! Covid lock down was very enlightening while she was typing up her recipes!
John,
?Thanks for the heads up, that info wasn¡¯t included in either the article or Halligans video, both also removed the spring hence my comment to Bill.
Cheers Kerrin
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hi Kerrin Nice work on the hydraulics! I'm just about to re-set my saw on an old 2-drawer filing cabinet on wheels and need a side mounted downfeed control cylinder so be interested in how yours goes. Just a correction re not using a counterbalance spring. The hydraulic downfeed control just slows the rate of fall. So long as the blade cuts faster than the rate of fall there is just enough weight on the blade to make it cut. However if you get into hard to cut material and the cutting rate slows then the weight on the teeth starts to rise and if it slows to almost stop, as it might on Inconel or stainless steel that workhardened if you set the hydraulics to cut too slow at the start, then the weight on the teeth rises to the whole weight of the head (20lb bow weight = 50lb on the teeth), which will wreck the blade and you don't even know its happening. Just be aware this can happen. Either establish that the hydraulics are controlling the cut each time you use or leave the counterbalance spring in set for say 8lb. I'm aiming to leave the spring in place Rgds--jv?
On Tue, 13 Oct 2020, 3:43 pm kerrin.galvin via , <kerrin.galvin= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Bill,
?Don¡¯t you just love computers!
Yes it replaces the spring, the green knob valve is an on/off one which stops the flow & holds the blade from falling, just the ticket for setting material under it. There is also a needle valve on the right hand block which adjusts the falling speed / weight of the blade.
Cheers Kerrin
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Yes, and no, on the computers. I've been playing with them since the late 70's, and think they're marvelous toys, but I'm not sure they're ready for prime time, yet. I want bullet-proof, fault-tolerant, and neural interfaces. :) I have been able to collect a tremendous amount of info on metalworking and other hobbies of mine, though, that would have been very difficult to do with physical books, magazines, and drawings. I've got a nominal 500gb microSD card in my phone with a goodly chunk of my metalworking stuff on it, and about 11,000 books of fiction, and still have about 50gb of free space on it. Try to carry 20 physical books anywhere! And the ability to magnify details isn't bad, either. I did have to put a new 2tb drive in my desktop computer, as I had the 1tb drive nearly full. OTH, that much data in physical books would probably take up the entire volume of my workshop area. I've got what used to be the garage (11x32) and the former back porch(16x21) for about 600 square feet of shop space. Most of my books and the computers and such are in here, too, of course. If I'm clever about how I arrange stuff, and get rid of some stuff I probably don't need, I should be able to fit the 4 lathes, one Lewis shape,? two and a half milling machines (one of the lathes is a 3-in-1 combination machine) two band saws,? three drill presses, and a couple of welders, a small bench shear, and a bunch of hand tools in and still be able to do some work. I've just (while typing this) figured out a solution to one of my problems. I've got two bandsaws, one is a 4x6 H/V machine like yours, and one is an old Craftsman 12 2-wheel woodworking saw. I've been trying to make it possible to cut metal and wood on it, and not gotten very far. All I have to do it forget metal cutting on it, get put back together to do wood, and then fix the 4x6. That's what I get for getting fixated on a solution, and not taking a good look at what I have!?
Thanks!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Monday, October 12, 2020, 09:43:54 PM CDT, kerrin.galvin via groups.io <kerrin.galvin@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,
?Don¡¯t you just love computers!
Yes it replaces the spring, the green knob valve is an on/off one which stops the flow & holds the blade from falling, just the ticket for setting material under it. There is also a needle valve on the right hand block which adjusts the falling speed / weight of the blade.
Cheers Kerrin
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Re: Hydraulic Downfeed Cylinder
Hi Bill,
?Don¡¯t you just love computers!
Yes it replaces the spring, the green knob valve is an on/off one which stops the flow & holds the blade from falling, just the ticket for setting material under it. There is also a needle valve on the right hand block which adjusts the falling speed / weight of the blade.
Cheers Kerrin
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John Vreede
JIM LAND
Bill in OKC too
Bill Buckalew