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Good pictures, thanks! Ralph

I just wanted to share the mods I did for my 4x6. The blade brush wheel is made with a 1-1/4" wire brush wheel with 1/4" ID bore, 1/4" mini pillow block bearing, 1/4" x 1" long shoulder bolt, and a

I've been using Super Lube iso 460 synthetic gear oil. It's safe for yellow metals, and is nearly half the

Recently this topic came back up. It was discussed extensively a couple of years ago and based on that, I ordered a quart of "Mobile SHC 634 ISO VG460." This is an expensive synthetic gear lube

Hey everyone, in order to further help prevent the spread of COVID-19, ISC Select has decided to give away masks for FREE (Shipping included). We believe that there is no better way to promote the

Exact post flagged a Spam in another group.? Gary

??? ??? I think the rule of thumb should be that weather ya buy yer saw new or used to open it up & check the fluid , check for fluid , & check the oil seals , mine was bone dry & had 3 oil

SAE 85W90. The real problem with the later saws made in China instead of Taiwan is that there is a fair probability that the gearbox will contain swarf (metal shavings). So I would just play it

Interesting, I got my Buffalo saw in about 1981 and it has seen a lot of use since. The gear set in my saw came packed with grease. It has been changed multiple times as seems to like White Lithium

Congratulations to John Vreede for another insightful post that keeps us focused on the practical issues, like the fact that our HF 4 X 6 saws never need the power transmission capacity of any of the

I use an NLGI 2 extreme pressure (EP) molybdenum containing grease. This is likely overkill for the home shop service but it works well for anti-wear and is compounded for anti-rust and oxidation

What do you suggest? Hypoid? 50ish et?

Good point. Worm gears are high friction devices and need proper lubrication.

Check the gear box for the condition of the lubricant. Most new machines have very poor quality lubricant (may look good to the eye but may not have proper antiwear additives) that may also be

I went to get an AX belt (cog looking one) for my bandsaw at our local SAECOWilson (Bearings, transmission parts place in New Zealand) the guys advised me to just get the standard A section belt. They

Interesting discussion. My suggestion would be to use a raw edge "cog" type belt. "AX" section in most listings. These transmit more power for several reasons, one being that the lower part of the

If you have access to the actual original factory drawings of the 2, 3 or 4 step V-pulleys typically used on machine tools, you may find that the V-angle is smaller on the smallest diameter step than

It occurred to me why the differences in belt performance are not that noticeable. The 4x6's pulleys are not made to standard so the belt wont be able to transmit as much power as its capable of, but

I suspect that most of the time, the comparison is between a new link belt and a 70+ year old V-belt. One should probably expect the new belt to be more flexible than the ancient one! Regardless of

All good info here, thanks John.