Oh my gosh, somebody of my Vintage. I had a I 1968 Yamaha 250 DT1 Enduro. Now that’s old. Others had CZ, Jawa, Penrod, Husky.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 12:05 PM Bill Armstrong <
bill_1955@...> wrote:
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250
when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the
YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as
soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard.
Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held
up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250 had
the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.?
The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er
done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen
wrote:
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready
to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be
great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm
partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing .
I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting
for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of
the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension
, those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the
late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys
were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson
wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks
than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system
to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a
large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position
and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple
of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know
your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of
people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence
going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede
wrote:
My pleasure
to be of assistance Steve.
Its a
long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and
I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been
helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to
life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he
was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He
met his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road
rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab
rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many
memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic
issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no
other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at
10:50 AM steve nicholson <
steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good
enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw
in the vertical position AND sort out the table
alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large
shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame
casting solved the table being square to the blade. I
haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the
moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've
made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x
80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the
outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the
saw in the horizontal and vertical positions with the
table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the
front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the
horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may
have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one
side, is to allow a larger table with locating
guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the
tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend
with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his
was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix
his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and
knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another
look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how
that works for me. Probably be next week before I
get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the
previous post before going on my regular Wednesday
walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to
photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of
the casting (where the circle with the dot is in
that photo), where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at the top,
not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I
suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between
the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as
shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill
& tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
Chuck Peterson