??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled

??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing . I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the vintage

??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension , those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys were real tough !

??? ??? animal

On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson wrote:

I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill, planning for my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!

Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.

Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in value!

Yes my saw is very similar to yours.

On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:

My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.

Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??

I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.

Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.

On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson <steve@...> wrote:

Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.

Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will work fine for now.

I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).

The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).

I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.

So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.

Steve

On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:

Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.

Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve

On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:

Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv