Well, I do know that the Chinese motor that came on my Grizzly,
is poor, and is overrated. No debate on that.
Whether Grizzly spec'd it or not, or blindly approved it, is
irrelevant. Shame on them if they did. Double shame on them if
they still do. We live in a price driven market, so that's the
driving factor of why it had what it had.
The price of my particular Grizzly band saw, has more than
doubled, so maybe a better motor is part of that increase. I don't
know, and it's also irrelevant to me. I own a saw.....with a good
motor....now.
I replaced it with a US made motor, which, is actually rated and
performs as advertised. The Chinese motor was and did not. Other
Chinese motors I have been around, have not been much better. That
doesn't mean they can't make a good motor. It means the motors on
these saws are not.
Simple as that!
Other Bill
On 3/23/2022 7:17 PM, John Vreede
wrote:
I don't know
that?Chinese made motors are necessarily?poor or overrated,
you just get what you pay for (sometimes less!).?
Remember it's
the American parent company that specified the motor on the
Grizzly and?HF .? They chose to advertise its horsepower?as
power output, as Grizzly used to (not sure now), or
maximum motor-current?x voltage converted to horsepower, so is
power input as HF do (and thus is overrated by
100-200%).
Chinese?made
stuff can be very well made or very poorly made, depending on
how much the customer is willing to pay.? Looking back to when
I was a child in the 1950's; 'Made in Japan' was a by-word for
'crappy' but not now.? I think the Chinese made stuff is
better than the Japanese stuff was, or Taiwanese or Korean
stuff for that?matter, at an equivalent stage of that
country's industrial development.
The running
temperature?of a motor, as Jim indicated, is highly variable.?
It is specified according to the temperature rating of the
insulation around the wire in the motor winding, called
'winding insulation class' or just 'class' on the motor
plate.? The following classes are recognised.
Winding Insulation Class
|
Max Temperature °C
|
Max Temperature °F
|
A
|
105
|
221
|
E (IEC motors only)
|
120
|
248
|
B*
|
130
|
266
|
F*
|
155
|
311
|
H
|
180
|
356
|
* most common industrial motor classes.
Where the motor
is rated to run continuously, it can operate indefinitely
below its max operating temperature given by its class..
My 1987 saw had
a?Class?A motor which burned out and was replaced with a?TEFC
class F,?the other two (yr2000 and 2020) are Open class E
motors.
Old Class A
motors had relatively poor insulation on the wire, that broke
down above 105C?(220F), so they necessarily had thicker wire
(i.e. more copper) to keep the temperature?down and so weighed
much more than higher classes of motor. but you can still burn
yourself on a Class A motor operating within its normal
parameters.?
Modern TEFC
(totally enclosed fan cooled) motors are generally class F or
H and you'll burn yourself very quickly on these, even
operating at relatively low power outputs, and they can run
all day at over 300F!?
Mnfr's are
always trying to get more out of less, and one of the more
recent innovations?is copper coated aluminium wire for the
windings.? Not sure how this will pan out in the long run. but
aluminium has almost as high heat and electrical conductivity
as copper at 1/3 the weight and inertia, so it will find a
place.
American made,
or Chinese made, they run at the temperature dictated by the
actual load, run time and their winding insulation class - jv
On Thu, Mar 24, 2022 at 1:12
PM Bill Armstrong < bill_1955@...>
wrote:
Chinese
made motors, are highly overrated. That's why I replaced it
with
a USA made model.
The new motor I have now, doesn't get too hot to touch, even
with long
run times.
On 3/23/2022 5:09 PM, Jim.Klessig@... via
wrote:
> Electrical equipment running at rated is often near 40c,
or higher which is indeed too hot to comfortably touch.
> Much is rated for a 30c RISE in a 40c ambient.
>
>
>
>
> Jim Klessig
> Senior Power Systems Engineer
>
> Phone +1 707.497.9611
> Jim.Klessig@...?
|? Connect with us at
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Bill Armstrong
> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2022 4:36 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Mysterious shift in saw
alignment
>
> CAUTION: This email originated from outside of Vertiv. Do
not click links or open attachments unless you recognize the
sender and know the content is safe.
>
>
> Free, is a very good price! A better price than I paid
for my Grizzly saw no doubt!
>
> I'm happy with it. I adjusted it when I got it, and have
had to adjust the tracking a couple times, as it vibrates
loose over time. I've replaced all of the guide bearings, and
he motor finally started giving out last years, so I replaced
it with an American made model. I'm sure I killed it, by
sawing for hours on end on some big projects, and getting the
motor so hot I couldn't lay a finger on it.
>
> I cut mostly alloys, like 1045 & 4140Q&T, and
304, & 316 stainless steels, so I run nothing but 10/14
bi-metal as well. I could cut aluminum, and the bronzes I use
more effeciently with other blades, and have, but do fine
running nothing but the 10/14's.
>
> Other Bill
>
>
> On 3/23/2022 2:56 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
>> On 3/23/2022 2:04 PM, Bill Armstrong wrote:
>>> This conversation, sure makes me glad I bought a
Grizzly!
>>>
>>> :)
>>>
>>
>>? ? Mine was free for helping a guy clean out his shop
after 3 (yes , 3)
>> giant oak trees fell on it . I don't even know what
brand it is (it's
>> kinda metallic green where it still has paint), but
it cuts adequately
>> square for me . I usually use 10/14 M42 blades ,
unless cutting thin
>> sections , then I go to an 18t carbon steel blade .
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