Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?
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Sounds like it's coming together Dave. You need the shaft to be a nice no-wiggle rotating fit in the pivot arm casting (and in the RHS of the sawframe too of course) You can to take the pivot arm casting off the existing pivot shaft with the sawframe horizontal resting on its stop and it remains stable (pic1). That way you can try the fit of the new shaft on the pivot arm casting before you do any machining. Use whichever?shaft (new or old one) has the best fit. As I said in the?writeup, the old shaft was too tight on the pivot arm casting of my old saw so I had to relieve it ever so slightly with wet&dry paper.? However on another saw I'm working on (made by the same manufacturer), the pivot arm casting is quite sloppy on its existing pivot shaft. I might have to turn a shaft out of?something bigger to?get the right fit.?? Also different shafting has different diameter tolerances, so it will pay to check before you do anything.? ? These things are just not rigid.? Castings look solid but they're all elastic.? When you undo to the joint between?the pivot arm casting and the saw frame don't be surprised if it springs apart (pic2).? Of course removing it to check the fit will upset the horizontal squareness.? You can help yourself at reassembly and re-aligning time by putting in some adjustment screws into the edge of the pivot arm casting (pic3).? I used?M6, because that's normal here, but you should use?3/16 or 1/4" UNF rather than UNC if you have the tap (UNC is still heaps better than not doing it though!).? Note:?
While you're at it do the same mod (that Rick devised) to the back of each guide bracket (pic5).? It is SOOO useful in setting up, as you don't lose the back support roller setting when setting the angle of the blade square to the vice table. Just drop into the milling vice and line up by eye. Another?10 min well spent? Have at it - jv On Fri, Dec 18, 2020 at 2:20 PM David Pidwerbecki <dpidwerbecki@...> wrote: Hi John, |
John Vreede
