[Attachment(s) from vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] included below]
My efforts pale in contrast with those shown already.
My only contribution is around some details
1. I think the most important aspect of any vertical table is absolute minimum clearance in front of the blade and along both sides of it.? Small bits jam in any gap wider than the blade and can take your fingers with them.
2. The attached photo shows how far out of square the top of my guide roller bracket is with the blade. Make yours square from the side and front of the blade with an angle grinder or file (I'll get around to doing mine one of these days...)
3. Use a slippery surface for the table.? Aluminium is too soft and sticky.? Hard steel is like Hardox or Bizalloy is good and most lasercutters stock it in thicknesses 1/8" to 1/4".? Mine is melamine surfaced MDF but that breaks out too quickly near the edge of the blade. Formica bench top is very durable and slippery and you can get a big enough bit free from a joinery place where they cut out to put a sink in a benchtop.? Its easier to work with handtools than Hardox.
4. If you can include some quick detach method so much the better.? It only takes ~90sec or so to put on my table but I still resent that every time I have to change, since invariably you want to go back to cutting in the vice immediately after. Maybe a QD table that dovetails on to one of those small permanent tables for the best of both worlds??
5.? Think about how you'll change blades.? Tables that slot on from front of the blade have the all important 'no slot' but stop you changing the blade unless its truly QD or you fill in the slot like Kerrins (I like his design a lot).
Rgds - jv?
