Bill ? ?Dang near exactly what I was imagining! Thanks!! Love the innovation with the sink drain. A friend of mine is a plumber and will crack up when I ask for one and then explain why. :) Great setup. Mine will differ a bit as I have a bead roller and look for reasons to use it. I was considering even wire rolling the edges. Have you have any issues with your pan and sharp edges? (Silly question perhaps, but another bead roller usage.) Thanks! Darren
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[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
Hey Darren,
I think you are on track. Way to go, is get all the bearings replaced, and the obvious repaired. Then after you get it dialed in and cutting straight, you know what you got.
As far as a coolant system, the best factory installed I have seen, had a large enough chip pan so anywhere and on any slope the saw was parked, the coolant would flow, drip,
or rain into the pan. Also, best to mount the pan as high as possible to avoid splash. The pan then drains into a tank below the pan, which also houses a pump. Tank is mostly enclosed, to prevent evaporation, and to prevent three year olds from checking the
coolant level.
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Attached are some pics for some ideas for ya¡.to do it on the cheap, but have something effective & reliable. Pics are what I use on my lathe, and the pump I move & use on my
mill when I¡¯m machining mean stuff like AR500, and use flood coolant.
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The lathe came with a drip pan, but it had no drain, or sump. Tough to recirculate like that. So¡.I added a drain. If the drain looks like it came out a of a kitchen sink¡.it¡¯s
because it did. I drilled the pan & flange, and made a neoprene gasket to mount it.
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The flood pump & tank is a Little Giant made critter. About $75 when I got it, about $120 now, but would be easy enough to build. The pump is a centrifugal, and pretty much a
swamp cooler pump, which goes for $20 to $25 bucks.
Even if the chips make it to the tank, unless they are really big, the pump will handle ¡®em, either my pump or a swamp cooler pump. Chips can plug up a nozzle however.
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For that reason, any chips that make it past the pan, and the sink drain basket, will get caught in the screen on the end of the drain pipe. The screen is actually a flame arrester
out of a safety fuel can. I had a couple laying around, and it fit the drain pipe perfectly, so why not. Also, easy enough to make.
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Also attached, a pic of a Wellsaw 1318. Nice big pan, & a good design. ?
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You should look at other systems on the site that folks have installed for more ideas. I do not have a flood system on my 5¡± x 6¡±. Most of the work I do is small stuff, and if
I cut thick material, I just grab the Kool Mister.
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Hope that helps!
Bill
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Bill,
I hear ya, loud and clear. This project is literally overkill in just about every aspect. The saw cuts fine, but I enjoy the refurbishing of old tools. I'm a nerd too, so for me, my machines need to all look similar. That being said, I
try to find a balance between throwing money away and doing things right. At the same time, I try to push my abilities and try to learn a new skill while accomplishing the goal of having a lifelong tool.?
As far as the coolant system is concermed, this one will push my abilities. I'm thinking of fabricating a large aluminum drip pan with beaded channels like a t with a catch pan under a filter. Obviously the can will house a pump and I'm
probably going to off set the can to have 2 tiers. The deepest tier for catching any metal, over flowing into a shallower tier housing the pump. I need to put it on paper but it works in my head. (Now, will it work in the real world? I don't know. That's half
the fun.)?
Off to the garage to make some progress with paint. :)
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Hi Darren,
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Yup¡.couple of reasons for that¡.
One is, a cam follower has a lot more stuft. Eccentric haft, bearing and housing, and the bearing is a needle type.
Other is, they just don¡¯t make that many, in comparison to something like the ball bearings used on my Grizz saw. (6000-2RS)? They pump out a kazillion a year.. Cam follower¡.not even close.
And they are, a heavy duty bearing. Have to be to take the loads they are designed for.
Stainless? I wouldn¡¯t bother, or even think about it.
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As far as the drive & idler wheels¡.I would doubt the bearings in those would be anything exotic. All things considered, not really a lot of load, compared to a lot of things I have worked on, and the RPM is quite low. Besides that,
impact is pretty much non-existent. ?
You will find out when you get in there, but I doubt it¡¯ll be a big deal! I¡¯d thing they are either ball or deep groove ball. Needle bearings would be overkill.
Whatever you find in there, I would replace them by what they are, by part number & configuration. (seals, shields etc) ?
My opinion, for something like that, stick with name brand bearings, ie; SKF, Timken, NTN, etc. You can save a bunch of money by going through someone like VXB, who sells made in China who knows what they are bearings (they do sell
some name brand stuff) but why?
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When you get to coolant systems, speak up. FYI, I use none on my saw, unless I cut hardened alloys, like 4140/4142Q&T or something, or thick steel parts. And I use mist, rather than flood when I do. For most things around the home
& for the hobbyist, flood is overkill, and somewhat messy, in my opinion.
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Fun project you are on Darren!
Look forward to hearing more!
Bill
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Bill,
You weren't kidding. They are PROUD of those cam followers. However, I believe I have the proper size ordered. We'll see in a couple of weeks, once they arrive from the manufacturer. I plan on implementing a liquid lubrication system, at some point. I looked
into the stainless steel cam followers but decided against them as they literally cost more than silver, per ounce. So, I got the sealed version.?
During this experience I started looking at replacement drive and idler wheel bearings.. I figured I'd probably need just regular bearings. However, after learning about the loads these things put on the blade, I have to wonder, that load must be transferred
to the bearings. Right? So, should I be looking at any particular bearings for the drive/idler wheels??
Thanks for the continued support!
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I think you have a well built saw Darren.
All the saws I have seen that used cam follower guides were high quality US made machines. I remember a DoAll we had that was built that way.
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Bill,
I appreciate your positive outlook. :) It's been an education thus far. I.e. concentric vs eccentric. ;). I continue to learn from y'all and appreciate every bit of it! For my own knowledge, and anyone else who might look for this in the future, I'll post up
what I find.
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Happy Thanksgiving Darren, and all!
I¡¯d bet they are standard flavor, that you can find easily at a bearing house, or online... ?
Good news is, they are a far better bearing than a ball or deep groove ball, and will last a lot longer.
Smaller ones are needle, larger generally a double row needle, and will handle a lot more load than ball bearings.
They cost more, initially, but overall, the cost will be less due to the long life they have.
I¡¯m thinking you will have a really good saw when you get it all plus¡¯d back up!
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Bill
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Dang, I was REALLY hoping that wasn't the case. Wanna bet these are funky dimensions? Time to get out the calipers.
Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it tomorrow! :)
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Those appear to be eccentric cam followers.
You don¡¯t replace just the bearing, you replace the bearing, stud & all.
Bill
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[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
The resurrection of the Bainbridge bandsaw continues.. I've refinished the stand and base. Moving on to replacing all the bearings I find myself a bit bewildered. Attached you'll find images of the guide bearings. I believe the bearings are captured by the
concentrics. However, one bearing shows signs of a previous owner trying to press the bearings out, and failed. So, I don't think I'll be attempting that route. I doubt the images show it, but I believe I see threads under the concentrics. However, the bolt
is pretty soft and I don't want to screw up the flat head.?
So, my query to this group, how the heck do I go about getting these trashed bearings off????
I've considered they may be reverse threaded. However, I come to the same conclusion, regardless of the direction, I don't want to scar the concentrics. They are about as thick as a Sharpie pen and rather thin walled.?
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I think you have a well built saw Darren.
All the saws I have seen that used cam follower guides were high quality US made machines. I remember a DoAll we had that was built that way.
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Bill,
I appreciate your positive outlook. :) It's been an education thus far. I.e. concentric vs eccentric. ;). I continue to learn from y'all and appreciate every bit of it! For my own knowledge, and anyone else who might look for this in the future, I'll post up
what I find.
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Happy Thanksgiving Darren, and all!
I¡¯d bet they are standard flavor, that you can find easily at a bearing house, or online... ?
Good news is, they are a far better bearing than a ball or deep groove ball, and will last a lot longer.
Smaller ones are needle, larger generally a double row needle, and will handle a lot more load than ball bearings.
They cost more, initially, but overall, the cost will be less due to the long life they have.
I¡¯m thinking you will have a really good saw when you get it all plus¡¯d back up!
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Bill
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Dang, I was REALLY hoping that wasn't the case. Wanna bet these are funky dimensions? Time to get out the calipers.
Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it tomorrow! :)
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Those appear to be eccentric cam followers.
You don¡¯t replace just the bearing, you replace the bearing, stud & all.
Bill
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[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
The resurrection of the Bainbridge bandsaw continues.. I've refinished the stand and base. Moving on to replacing all the bearings I find myself a bit bewildered. Attached you'll find images of the guide bearings. I believe the bearings are captured by the
concentrics. However, one bearing shows signs of a previous owner trying to press the bearings out, and failed. So, I don't think I'll be attempting that route. I doubt the images show it, but I believe I see threads under the concentrics. However, the bolt
is pretty soft and I don't want to screw up the flat head.?
So, my query to this group, how the heck do I go about getting these trashed bearings off????
I've considered they may be reverse threaded. However, I come to the same conclusion, regardless of the direction, I don't want to scar the concentrics. They are about as thick as a Sharpie pen and rather thin walled.?
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