Bill, I hear ya, loud and clear. This project is literally overkill in just about every aspect. The saw cuts fine, but I enjoy the refurbishing of old tools. I'm a nerd too, so for me, my machines need to all look similar. That being said, I try to find a balance between throwing money away and doing things right. At the same time, I try to push my abilities and try to learn a new skill while accomplishing the goal of having a lifelong tool.? As far as the coolant system is concermed, this one will push my abilities. I'm thinking of fabricating a large aluminum drip pan with beaded channels like a t with a catch pan under a filter. Obviously the can will house a pump and I'm probably going to off set the can to have 2 tiers. The deepest tier for catching any metal, over flowing into a shallower tier housing the pump. I need to put it on paper but it works in my head. (Now, will it work in the real world? I don't know. That's half the fun.)? Off to the garage to make some progress with paint. :) Thanks Darren
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Hi Darren,
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Yup¡.couple of reasons for that¡.
One is, a cam follower has a lot more stuft. Eccentric haft, bearing and housing, and the bearing is a needle type.
Other is, they just don¡¯t make that many, in comparison to something like the ball bearings used on my Grizz saw. (6000-2RS)? They pump out a kazillion a year. Cam follower¡.not
even close.
And they are, a heavy duty bearing. Have to be to take the loads they are designed for.
Stainless? I wouldn¡¯t bother, or even think about it.
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As far as the drive & idler wheels¡.I would doubt the bearings in those would be anything exotic. All things considered, not really a lot of load, compared to a lot of things
I have worked on, and the RPM is quite low. Besides that, impact is pretty much non-existent. ?
You will find out when you get in there, but I doubt it¡¯ll be a big deal! I¡¯d thing they are either ball or deep groove ball. Needle bearings would be overkill.
Whatever you find in there, I would replace them by what they are, by part number & configuration. (seals, shields etc) ?
My opinion, for something like that, stick with name brand bearings, ie; SKF, Timken, NTN, etc. You can save a bunch of money by going through someone like VXB, who sells made
in China who knows what they are bearings (they do sell some name brand stuff) but why?
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When you get to coolant systems, speak up. FYI, I use none on my saw, unless I cut hardened alloys, like 4140/4142Q&T or something, or thick steel parts. And I use mist, rather
than flood when I do. For most things around the home & for the hobbyist, flood is overkill, and somewhat messy, in my opinion.
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Fun project you are on Darren!
Look forward to hearing more!
Bill
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Bill,
You weren't kidding. They are PROUD of those cam followers. However, I believe I have the proper size ordered. We'll see in a couple of weeks, once they arrive from the manufacturer. I plan on implementing a liquid lubrication system, at
some point. I looked into the stainless steel cam followers but decided against them as they literally cost more than silver, per ounce. So, I got the sealed version.?
During this experience I started looking at replacement drive and idler wheel bearings.. I figured I'd probably need just regular bearings. However, after learning about the loads these things put on the blade, I have to wonder, that load
must be transferred to the bearings. Right? So, should I be looking at any particular bearings for the drive/idler wheels??
Thanks for the continued support!
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I think you have a well built saw Darren.
All the saws I have seen that used cam follower guides were high quality US made machines. I remember a DoAll we had that was built that way.
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Bill,
I appreciate your positive outlook. :) It's been an education thus far. I.e. concentric vs eccentric. ;). I continue to learn from y'all and appreciate every bit of it! For my own knowledge, and anyone else who
might look for this in the future, I'll post up what I find.
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Happy Thanksgiving Darren, and all!
I¡¯d bet they are standard flavor, that you can find easily at a bearing house, or online... ?
Good news is, they are a far better bearing than a ball or deep groove ball, and will last a lot longer.
Smaller ones are needle, larger generally a double row needle, and will handle a lot more load than ball bearings.
They cost more, initially, but overall, the cost will be less due to the long life they have.
I¡¯m thinking you will have a really good saw when you get it all plus¡¯d back up!
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Bill
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Dang, I was REALLY hoping that wasn't the case. Wanna bet these are funky dimensions? Time to get out the calipers.
Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it tomorrow! :)
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Those appear to be eccentric cam followers.
You don¡¯t replace just the bearing, you replace the bearing, stud & all.
Bill
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[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
The resurrection of the Bainbridge bandsaw continues.. I've refinished the stand and base. Moving on to replacing all the bearings I find myself a bit bewildered. Attached you'll find images of the guide bearings. I believe the bearings are captured by the
concentrics. However, one bearing shows signs of a previous owner trying to press the bearings out, and failed. So, I don't think I'll be attempting that route. I doubt the images show it, but I believe I see threads under the concentrics. However, the bolt
is pretty soft and I don't want to screw up the flat head.?
So, my query to this group, how the heck do I go about getting these trashed bearings off????
I've considered they may be reverse threaded. However, I come to the same conclusion, regardless of the direction, I don't want to scar the concentrics. They are about as thick as a Sharpie pen and rather thin walled.?
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I think you have a well built saw Darren.
All the saws I have seen that used cam follower guides were high quality US made machines. I remember a DoAll we had that was built that way.
?
Bill,
I appreciate your positive outlook. :) It's been an education thus far. I.e. concentric vs eccentric. ;). I continue to learn from y'all and appreciate every bit of it! For my own knowledge, and anyone else who
might look for this in the future, I'll post up what I find.
?
?
Happy Thanksgiving Darren, and all!
I¡¯d bet they are standard flavor, that you can find easily at a bearing house, or online... ?
Good news is, they are a far better bearing than a ball or deep groove ball, and will last a lot longer.
Smaller ones are needle, larger generally a double row needle, and will handle a lot more load than ball bearings.
They cost more, initially, but overall, the cost will be less due to the long life they have.
I¡¯m thinking you will have a really good saw when you get it all plus¡¯d back up!
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Bill
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Dang, I was REALLY hoping that wasn't the case. Wanna bet these are funky dimensions? Time to get out the calipers.
Happy Thanksgiving to all that celebrate it tomorrow! :)
?
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Those appear to be eccentric cam followers.
You don¡¯t replace just the bearing, you replace the bearing, stud & all.
Bill
?
?
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[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
The resurrection of the Bainbridge bandsaw continues.. I've refinished the stand and base. Moving on to replacing all the bearings I find myself a bit bewildered. Attached you'll find images of the guide bearings. I believe the bearings are captured by the
concentrics. However, one bearing shows signs of a previous owner trying to press the bearings out, and failed. So, I don't think I'll be attempting that route. I doubt the images show it, but I believe I see threads under the concentrics. However, the bolt
is pretty soft and I don't want to screw up the flat head.?
So, my query to this group, how the heck do I go about getting these trashed bearings off????
I've considered they may be reverse threaded. However, I come to the same conclusion, regardless of the direction, I don't want to scar the concentrics. They are about as thick as a Sharpie pen and rather thin walled.?
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