I’m currently picking up buttonbands for Dissent () a steeked cardigan in a worsted weight yarn (well, my yarn is somewhere between DK and worsted in grist, but it’s knit at 20 st/4”).? The pattern gives very detailed directions for securing and cutting the steek, which is probably really helpful for people who don’t have a lot of experience with steeks. ? I do, although it’s been a while, and I don’t think I’ve ever steeked anything heavier than sport yarn and those patterns tended to have more steek stitches than this one (hindsight and all that).? The pattern calls for the addition of grosgrain ribbon to secure the cut edges afterwards, which I can do, but I’m concerned about the stabilizing effect changing the elasticity and drape of the cardigan. ? Any advice or suggestions?? I don’t have enough fabric to turn under to secure the raw edge (and it would be thick) but I’m sure I could find a matching fingering or laceweight yarn and add an extra handsewn line of stitching to secure the cut edge down.? ? Melisande
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My mom made this for me, which has a grosgrain ribbon band:
It was worsted?and I thought maintained good drape after the ribbon was added - until I lost it. (Sob!)?
She had someone else sew the ribbon, who did not do the greatest job. Even so, I loved it dearly.?
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On Oct 24, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Melisande R. Wolf via Groups.Io < melisanderwolf@...> wrote: I’m currently picking up buttonbands for Dissent () a steeked cardigan in a worsted weight yarn (well, my yarn is somewhere between DK and worsted in grist, but it’s knit at 20 st/4”).? The pattern gives very detailed directions for securing and cutting the steek, which is probably really helpful for people who don’t have a lot of experience with steeks. ? I do, although it’s been a while, and I don’t think I’ve ever steeked anything heavier than sport yarn and those patterns tended to have more steek stitches than this one (hindsight and all that).? The pattern calls for the addition of grosgrain ribbon to secure the cut edges afterwards, which I can do, but I’m concerned about the stabilizing effect changing the elasticity and drape of the cardigan. ? Any advice or suggestions?? I don’t have enough fabric to turn under to secure the raw edge (and it would be thick) but I’m sure I could find a matching fingering or laceweight yarn and add an extra handsewn line of stitching to secure the cut edge down.? ? Melisande
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I have only steeked fine gauge sweaters. Are you concerned about the steek holding or about the raw edge being finished? If it is the latter, a couple of rows of stitching (back stitch by hand or machine stitch) will hold the cut edge from unraveling. If it is the latter, the grosgrain will work. You just have to be careful to measure the ribbon to the correct (finished length of the band) measurement and sew it in so the knitting isn’t stretched out or puckered.?
I use grosgrain ribbon to back heavier buttons so that they don’t put the weight on the knitted fabric when pulled. That ribbon is only sewed down behind the buttons, not down the whole length, but I haven’t noticed any drooping or other issues.? On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 5:28 PM Melisande R. Wolf via Groups.Io <melisanderwolf= [email protected]> wrote:
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I’m currently picking up buttonbands for Dissent () a steeked cardigan in a worsted weight yarn (well, my yarn is somewhere between DK and worsted in grist, but it’s knit at 20 st/4”).? The pattern gives very detailed directions for securing and cutting the steek, which is probably really helpful for people who don’t have a lot of experience with steeks. ? I do, although it’s been a while, and I don’t think I’ve ever steeked anything heavier than sport yarn and those patterns tended to have more steek stitches than this one (hindsight and all that).? The pattern calls for the addition of grosgrain ribbon to secure the cut edges afterwards, which I can do, but I’m concerned about the stabilizing effect changing the elasticity and drape of the cardigan. ? Any advice or suggestions?? I don’t have enough fabric to turn under to secure the raw edge (and it would be thick) but I’m sure I could find a matching fingering or laceweight yarn and add an extra handsewn line of stitching to secure the cut edge down.? ? Melisande
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I think I’m most concerned about the raw edge raveling, but I’m wondering if a combination of tacking inside the raw edge down by hand and the ribbon approach you mention might be better in case I want to wear the sweater open or partially open.? ? You did manage to answer my question about ribbon and heavy buttons.? I’ve got a lovely sweater with gorgeous Czech glass buttons that are heavy enough that they make the sweater look gappy even though it’s not and I’ve been intending to try ribbon on that one for some time. ? Melisande ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jaya Srikrishnan Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 6:58 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [yarnmongers] Steeks and ribbons ? I have only steeked fine gauge sweaters. Are you concerned about the steek holding or about the raw edge being finished? If it is the latter, a couple of rows of stitching (back stitch by hand or machine stitch) will hold the cut edge from unraveling. If it is the latter, the grosgrain will work. You just have to be careful to measure the ribbon to the correct (finished length of the band) measurement and sew it in so the knitting isn’t stretched out or puckered.? I use grosgrain ribbon to back heavier buttons so that they don’t put the weight on the knitted fabric when pulled. That ribbon is only sewed down behind the buttons, not down the whole length, but I haven’t noticed any drooping or other issues.? ? On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 5:28 PM Melisande R. Wolf via Groups.Io <melisanderwolf=[email protected]> wrote: I’m currently picking up buttonbands for Dissent () a steeked cardigan in a worsted weight yarn (well, my yarn is somewhere between DK and worsted in grist, but it’s knit at 20 st/4”).? The pattern gives very detailed directions for securing and cutting the steek, which is probably really helpful for people who don’t have a lot of experience with steeks. ? I do, although it’s been a while, and I don’t think I’ve ever steeked anything heavier than sport yarn and those patterns tended to have more steek stitches than this one (hindsight and all that).? The pattern calls for the addition of grosgrain ribbon to secure the cut edges afterwards, which I can do, but I’m concerned about the stabilizing effect changing the elasticity and drape of the cardigan. ? Any advice or suggestions?? I don’t have enough fabric to turn under to secure the raw edge (and it would be thick) but I’m sure I could find a matching fingering or laceweight yarn and add an extra handsewn line of stitching to secure the cut edge down.? ? Melisande
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Be sure to preshrink the ribbon! ? Ann in PA ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jaya Srikrishnan Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 6:58 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [yarnmongers] Steeks and ribbons ? I have only steeked fine gauge sweaters. Are you concerned about the steek holding or about the raw edge being finished? If it is the latter, a couple of rows of stitching (back stitch by hand or machine stitch) will hold the cut edge from unraveling. If it is the latter, the grosgrain will work. You just have to be careful to measure the ribbon to the correct (finished length of the band) measurement and sew it in so the knitting isn’t stretched out or puckered.? I use grosgrain ribbon to back heavier buttons so that they don’t put the weight on the knitted fabric when pulled. That ribbon is only sewed down behind the buttons, not down the whole length, but I haven’t noticed any drooping or other issues.? ? On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 5:28 PM Melisande R. Wolf via Groups.Io <melisanderwolf=[email protected]> wrote: I’m currently picking up buttonbands for Dissent () a steeked cardigan in a worsted weight yarn (well, my yarn is somewhere between DK and worsted in grist, but it’s knit at 20 st/4”).? The pattern gives very detailed directions for securing and cutting the steek, which is probably really helpful for people who don’t have a lot of experience with steeks. ? I do, although it’s been a while, and I don’t think I’ve ever steeked anything heavier than sport yarn and those patterns tended to have more steek stitches than this one (hindsight and all that).? The pattern calls for the addition of grosgrain ribbon to secure the cut edges afterwards, which I can do, but I’m concerned about the stabilizing effect changing the elasticity and drape of the cardigan. ? Any advice or suggestions?? I don’t have enough fabric to turn under to secure the raw edge (and it would be thick) but I’m sure I could find a matching fingering or laceweight yarn and add an extra handsewn line of stitching to secure the cut edge down.? ? Melisande
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I think that will work.?
If the sweater is gapping, I'd sew the ribbon down for its length I think.? You want to cut down stretch in that case. In the cases I used it, there was no gapping. It was just that I had heavy ceramic buttons and didn't want them pulling their weight on the knitted fabric.
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On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 8:36 PM Ann McManus < mcmanusab@...> wrote: Be sure to preshrink the ribbon! ? Ann in PA ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jaya Srikrishnan Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 6:58 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [yarnmongers] Steeks and ribbons ? I have only steeked fine gauge sweaters. Are you concerned about the steek holding or about the raw edge being finished? If it is the latter, a couple of rows of stitching (back stitch by hand or machine stitch) will hold the cut edge from unraveling. If it is the latter, the grosgrain will work. You just have to be careful to measure the ribbon to the correct (finished length of the band) measurement and sew it in so the knitting isn’t stretched out or puckered.? I use grosgrain ribbon to back heavier buttons so that they don’t put the weight on the knitted fabric when pulled. That ribbon is only sewed down behind the buttons, not down the whole length, but I haven’t noticed any drooping or other issues.? ? On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 5:28 PM Melisande R. Wolf via Groups.Io <melisanderwolf=[email protected]> wrote: I’m currently picking up buttonbands for Dissent () a steeked cardigan in a worsted weight yarn (well, my yarn is somewhere between DK and worsted in grist, but it’s knit at 20 st/4”).? The pattern gives very detailed directions for securing and cutting the steek, which is probably really helpful for people who don’t have a lot of experience with steeks. ? I do, although it’s been a while, and I don’t think I’ve ever steeked anything heavier than sport yarn and those patterns tended to have more steek stitches than this one (hindsight and all that).? The pattern calls for the addition of grosgrain ribbon to secure the cut edges afterwards, which I can do, but I’m concerned about the stabilizing effect changing the elasticity and drape of the cardigan. ? Any advice or suggestions?? I don’t have enough fabric to turn under to secure the raw edge (and it would be thick) but I’m sure I could find a matching fingering or laceweight yarn and add an extra handsewn line of stitching to secure the cut edge down.? ? Melisande
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Melisande,
I'm late responding, as usual, but since you know your way around steeking, you shouldn't have any trouble with it.
Years ago, when I was about to cut my knitting for the first time, I experimented with wool sweaters from Goodwill.? I machine sewed and cut.? There was one that was worsted weight and another that was closer to fingering.? Both of the edges on all of the test steeks were very secure; gauge didn't matter.?
I wouldn't worry about turning under the raw edge.? If the steeked section is 8-10 stitches, you may want to run another link of? machine stitching closer to the edge of the fronts.? That would allow you to trim the edge even closer to reduce bulk, but that can really only be determined once you look at the results once the front bands are knitted.
Then I'm all for the ribbon.? My recommendation is to get genuine Petersham ribbom for the job and pre-shrink as recommended.? Petersham has a touch of give to it, unlike the grosgrain ribbon that can be found locally.? The result will be excellent if you work on a flat surface.? This really isn't a job to do in your lap b/c you want the knitted fabric as flat as possible.
Britex is a good source for Petersham:?
The Petersham also provides a nice stable base for machine buttonholes - another part of the construction that still gives me pause.
HTH,
Mary.
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Even if she no longer needs the advice, I am glad you gave it. I learned a lot!! - Jacqueline?
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On Oct 28, 2019, at 9:23 AM, mary_007usa via Groups.Io < sewgood5@...> wrote: Melisande,
I'm late responding, as usual, but since you know your way around steeking, you shouldn't have any trouble with it.
Years ago, when I was about to cut my knitting for the first time, I experimented with wool sweaters from Goodwill.? I machine sewed and cut.? There was one that was worsted weight and another that was closer to fingering.? Both of the edges on all of the test steeks were very secure; gauge didn't matter.?
I wouldn't worry about turning under the raw edge.? If the steeked section is 8-10 stitches, you may want to run another link of? machine stitching closer to the edge of the fronts.? That would allow you to trim the edge even closer to reduce bulk, but that can really only be determined once you look at the results once the front bands are knitted.
Then I'm all for the ribbon.? My recommendation is to get genuine Petersham ribbom for the job and pre-shrink as recommended.? Petersham has a touch of give to it, unlike the grosgrain ribbon that can be found locally.? The result will be excellent if you work on a flat surface.? This really isn't a job to do in your lap b/c you want the knitted fabric as flat as possible.
Britex is a good source for Petersham:?
The Petersham also provides a nice stable base for machine buttonholes - another part of the construction that still gives me pause.
HTH,
Mary.
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Good advice on the ribbon. Thanks! I had never heard of Petersham ribbon.
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On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 10:23 AM mary_007usa via Groups.Io <sewgood5= [email protected]> wrote: Melisande,
I'm late responding, as usual, but since you know your way around steeking, you shouldn't have any trouble with it.
Years ago, when I was about to cut my knitting for the first time, I experimented with wool sweaters from Goodwill.? I machine sewed and cut.? There was one that was worsted weight and another that was closer to fingering.? Both of the edges on all of the test steeks were very secure; gauge didn't matter.?
I wouldn't worry about turning under the raw edge.? If the steeked section is 8-10 stitches, you may want to run another link of? machine stitching closer to the edge of the fronts.? That would allow you to trim the edge even closer to reduce bulk, but that can really only be determined once you look at the results once the front bands are knitted.
Then I'm all for the ribbon.? My recommendation is to get genuine Petersham ribbom for the job and pre-shrink as recommended.? Petersham has a touch of give to it, unlike the grosgrain ribbon that can be found locally.? The result will be excellent if you work on a flat surface.? This really isn't a job to do in your lap b/c you want the knitted fabric as flat as possible.
Britex is a good source for Petersham:?
The Petersham also provides a nice stable base for machine buttonholes - another part of the construction that still gives me pause.
HTH,
Mary.
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Sorry! Hit send too soon.
My first steeks were on worn out socks to make mug cozies out of the good parts. I got very adventurous and even sewed some into coasters and grafted others together into a headband I wear when I run outside.
I figured if I could master steering on superwash wool, I could do it on anything. Now, I’m mending my socks again ツ
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On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 11:44 AM Jaya < ermabom@...> wrote: Good advice on the ribbon. Thanks! I had never heard of Petersham ribbon. On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 10:23 AM mary_007usa via Groups.Io <sewgood5= [email protected]> wrote: Melisande,
I'm late responding, as usual, but since you know your way around steeking, you shouldn't have any trouble with it.
Years ago, when I was about to cut my knitting for the first time, I experimented with wool sweaters from Goodwill.? I machine sewed and cut.? There was one that was worsted weight and another that was closer to fingering.? Both of the edges on all of the test steeks were very secure; gauge didn't matter.?
I wouldn't worry about turning under the raw edge.? If the steeked section is 8-10 stitches, you may want to run another link of? machine stitching closer to the edge of the fronts.? That would allow you to trim the edge even closer to reduce bulk, but that can really only be determined once you look at the results once the front bands are knitted.
Then I'm all for the ribbon.? My recommendation is to get genuine Petersham ribbom for the job and pre-shrink as recommended.? Petersham has a touch of give to it, unlike the grosgrain ribbon that can be found locally.? The result will be excellent if you work on a flat surface.? This really isn't a job to do in your lap b/c you want the knitted fabric as flat as possible.
Britex is a good source for Petersham:?
The Petersham also provides a nice stable base for machine buttonholes - another part of the construction that still gives me pause.
HTH,
Mary.
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Jaya
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Thanks for sharing this wisdom Mary – it’s much appreciated. ? The entire steek was only 5 stitches, which is what has me nervous about the possibility of too much fraying, even with machine stitching.? Once the front bands were knitted I think the amount of steek left was just about right but those raw ends weren’t pretty and were making me nervous. ? Of course, by the time I saw your post yesterday, I was about halfway done sewing the ribbon on the second side.? I did pre-wash, but I used whatever brand of ribbon it is that JoAnn’s carries because that’s what I had.? If I decide that I’m not happy with how the ribbons themselves are laying (they are not uniformly perfectly flat and I need to figure out if it’s something about the difference in density between stranded colorwork and regular single color stockinette), I’ll definitely invest in Petersham ribbon.? For one thing, it looks like one of the colors listed would be a better match than anything I saw in person. ? I’m using a lovely thin, but strong silk sewing thread for the ribbons and as long as I’m careful, it disappears right into the sewing, so I’m really pleased about that.? I am less pleased that Arielle dumped most of her smoothie on my spool of thread (lengthy story involving a substitute bus driver skipping a chunk of the route yesterday, which doesn’t excuse the smoothie fiasco) but I think that rinsing the whole spool and then discarding the outer layer may have saved the rest. ? Melisande ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of mary_007usa via Groups.Io Sent: Monday, October 28, 2019 10:24 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [yarnmongers] Steeks and ribbons ? Melisande,
I'm late responding, as usual, but since you know your way around steeking, you shouldn't have any trouble with it.
Years ago, when I was about to cut my knitting for the first time, I experimented with wool sweaters from Goodwill.? I machine sewed and cut.? There was one that was worsted weight and another that was closer to fingering.? Both of the edges on all of the test steeks were very secure; gauge didn't matter.?
I wouldn't worry about turning under the raw edge.? If the steeked section is 8-10 stitches, you may want to run another link of? machine stitching closer to the edge of the fronts.? That would allow you to trim the edge even closer to reduce bulk, but that can really only be determined once you look at the results once the front bands are knitted.
Then I'm all for the ribbon.? My recommendation is to get genuine Petersham ribbom for the job and pre-shrink as recommended.? Petersham has a touch of give to it, unlike the grosgrain ribbon that can be found locally.? The result will be excellent if you work on a flat surface.? This really isn't a job to do in your lap b/c you want the knitted fabric as flat as possible.
Britex is a good source for Petersham:?
The Petersham also provides a nice stable base for machine buttonholes - another part of the construction that still gives me pause.
HTH,
Mary.
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Please send pics when it is done? On Tue, Oct 29, 2019 at 4:32 PM Melisande R. Wolf via Groups.Io <melisanderwolf= [email protected]> wrote:
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Thanks for sharing this wisdom Mary – it’s much appreciated. ? The entire steek was only 5 stitches, which is what has me nervous about the possibility of too much fraying, even with machine stitching.? Once the front bands were knitted I think the amount of steek left was just about right but those raw ends weren’t pretty and were making me nervous. ? Of course, by the time I saw your post yesterday, I was about halfway done sewing the ribbon on the second side.? I did pre-wash, but I used whatever brand of ribbon it is that JoAnn’s carries because that’s what I had.? If I decide that I’m not happy with how the ribbons themselves are laying (they are not uniformly perfectly flat and I need to figure out if it’s something about the difference in density between stranded colorwork and regular single color stockinette), I’ll definitely invest in Petersham ribbon.? For one thing, it looks like one of the colors listed would be a better match than anything I saw in person. ? I’m using a lovely thin, but strong silk sewing thread for the ribbons and as long as I’m careful, it disappears right into the sewing, so I’m really pleased about that.? I am less pleased that Arielle dumped most of her smoothie on my spool of thread (lengthy story involving a substitute bus driver skipping a chunk of the route yesterday, which doesn’t excuse the smoothie fiasco) but I think that rinsing the whole spool and then discarding the outer layer may have saved the rest. ? Melisande ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of mary_007usa via Groups.Io Sent: Monday, October 28, 2019 10:24 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [yarnmongers] Steeks and ribbons ? Melisande,
I'm late responding, as usual, but since you know your way around steeking, you shouldn't have any trouble with it.
Years ago, when I was about to cut my knitting for the first time, I experimented with wool sweaters from Goodwill.? I machine sewed and cut.? There was one that was worsted weight and another that was closer to fingering.? Both of the edges on all of the test steeks were very secure; gauge didn't matter.?
I wouldn't worry about turning under the raw edge.? If the steeked section is 8-10 stitches, you may want to run another link of? machine stitching closer to the edge of the fronts.? That would allow you to trim the edge even closer to reduce bulk, but that can really only be determined once you look at the results once the front bands are knitted.
Then I'm all for the ribbon.? My recommendation is to get genuine Petersham ribbom for the job and pre-shrink as recommended.? Petersham has a touch of give to it, unlike the grosgrain ribbon that can be found locally.? The result will be excellent if you work on a flat surface.? This really isn't a job to do in your lap b/c you want the knitted fabric as flat as possible.
Britex is a good source for Petersham:?
The Petersham also provides a nice stable base for machine buttonholes - another part of the construction that still gives me pause.
HTH,
Mary.
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