开云体育

I just finally reorganized my small but comfortable home studio space here last month, which finally (after living in this place eight years) also allowed me to haul the CS-80 upstairs and set it up again. I was understandably just a little nervous plugging it in the first time, plugged into a filtered regulated power outlet which is itself plugged into a Furman rack mount power conditioner strip. First throw of the switch… no problems… no funny smells… seemed normal. It took a long time to warm up and settle in but I'm happy to report that all is still well. I had it professionally serviced about ten years ago, voices tuned and many of the caps replaced at the time. Cost me $800 but I felt was well worth it. I wanted to use it on my entry for the Trans-Siberian Orch video play along contest they're running right now. The tuning isn't perfect, but after a few hours warming up it was quite good enough for me to use. It's nice having it back on it's legs again and up and running! Sigh of relief.

Can someone post to some pictures of the Caster Wheels, I'm gonna try and source some for mine. Cheers

Hiya got a cs-80 from LA shipped by FedEX, arrived plugged it in, it is labelled 117 Volt 180W . I used a step-down converter rated at 75W - i used it for my Memorymoog Plus. The CS_80 worked beautifully, left it on went for a walk came back and it was off. The power switch is on but no light! No sound. Did i blow the fuse? Did i do some serious damage? I'm going to the electrical store first thing tomorrow to buy a high rested converter, will she return to life after my abuse?

Hello, I have a weird problem with a CS-80: there is no signal coming from the filters in section 1 if the synth is in panel mode. The sine signal is coming through fine. The presets and memory 1 and 3 work fine. The synth is not here, so I can't do measuring at the moment, but I checked with the owner, that the potentiometers provide correct voltages. What could that be? Additionally I have the problem that I do not understand the naming of the wires on the potentiometers - to my understanding it does not match the definitions in the cording guide on page 3. Can anyone provide me insight: to which board do the cables from the potentiometers go to? Many thanks for your help in advance. Florian -- http://fa.utfs.org/

The mystery was solved this morning. As the title of this topic adds to the already great confusion about using an FC-7 pedal on the CS-80 EXP connector, I thought a conclusion would be useful. Since April, I've been wondering why this did happen to my FC-7 pedal. Why did the carbon track of the potentiometer of my FC-7 burn while I tested it with the CS-80? I had no problem using it with a CS-60. So I spent some time with the schematics. But the more I read them, the more I was convinced this should have never happened. So last weekend, I decided to give a close look at the PRA board, the one where the three wires from the EXP pedal jack arrive. I removed the wires and used a potentiometer instead. I could hear no effect while turning the pot, though the voltages varied as expected. While removing the board from the rail, I had noticed two resistors soldered on its back. They were soldered in parallel to the output of the two photo-couplers used to control the left and right output levels. I removed them and abracadabra, the EXP and EXP-WAH were back again. Great! Now, why the heck did someone soldered these two resistors? I removed the potentiometer and soldered back the three wires. The CS-80 was now as silent as a grave! OK, it was now clear that either the three wires or the jack connector itself was guilty for this dark matter! I checked the wires and they proved OK. So there was no escape but rolling up my sleeves and ripping open the female jack connector. (By chance, this is feasible.) I disassemble the connector (if you ever wanted to know how it looks inside, look here: http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/yamahacs80/photos/albums/1848204973) and... oh, everything is now clear: the tip of a jack connector was trapped inside! After reassembling all parts (the jack tip excepted, of course - I'm thinking of some kind of punishment for it), I tried the CS-80 with an other FC-7. And guess what? No shhhh, no burnt capacitor, no smoke whatever. It just works fine, both EXP and EXP-WAH. The FC-7 pedal resistor is an ALPS 50k log. So the resistance value between tip and ring or ring and sleeve varies between 50k and about 500 ohms. And there is also a 2.2k resistor at the input of the PRA board, so the path is never short-circuited. As a conclusion, before using an FC-7 pedal on a CS-80, check carefully the inside of the CS-80's EXP connector! ---In yamahacs80@..., <laurie@...> wrote: I have 2 FC7 pedals (none of which I have tried on my CS80)... the original pedal uses a lightbulb and photocell with a teardrop hole shaped shutter between the 2 elements. At the narrow end of the shutter, no light passes to the photo cell and as you move the pedal/shutter so the round side of the teardrop is between the 2 elements, the photo cell receives full light and the circuit changes... there is a voltage in a cs80 that lights the bulb all the time whether it is low or high in position... there is the third connection which is the output of the photo cell... I had a misfortune about 12 years ago where my Optical pedal had a short inside the male 1/4 jack.... the short took out a ground rail inside my cs80 as a fuse.... you are lucky your pedal burned up..... retracing the burnt ground rails was close to a thousand dollars in the shop. remember... that jack has a voltage being sent to power a bulb all the time... the optical coupler circuit should not be carrying voltage... How people claim the FC7 pedal should work is not an option I would care to risk....

I?ve tracked my G3 AT problem to the sensor itself. After the keys were removed I?ve seen that somebody was there before me and placed a 67K resistor between -15 and +15 terminal. It was kind of repair as in Joachim?s topic about his faulty AT sensor. After I took the rubbers and cover out I started to measure. At working AT sensors it starts at around 14V and the current decreases at each terminal about 2V finally reaching 4V. At T3 I read -0.3V depressed and around 6v pressed. At my faulty AT sensor 14V is there but the current does not descend at any terminal....I read 14V at the end and -15 at T3.... If any of them not seem to work, does that mean that I have to place 8 resistors in their place?...

Hi, thanks for the group, lots of good info! I recently acquired a CS60, that mostly works pretty well. The first, and easiest issue is to find out a modern replacement for the Touch Response light bulb. I'm having some trouble finding a 24v5w equivalent. The #1864 seems close, but is 28v, and I'm not even sure it is the correct base size. The only other issue I've found (other than the need for a good tuning touch-up) is that the 3rd voice does not pass Square, Saw, or Noise. The Sine wave works great, and all other cards work fully. Where can I start? I've read a few posts here about it possibly being the Wave Shaper or maybe the VCF or VCF master level? Thanks! lee.

That is really weird. And it?s only one key! I still don?t know exactly how to track key signals so I have to ask....My D#5 key does not react to aftertouch. It?s always loud and at high brilliance. I think it was after I rebuild TKC and TSBs....What could go wrong? I ve checked for broken wires and it seems ok.

I?ve rearranged my home studio a bit and I?ve placed my CS80 on the flat surface. The top ventilation openings are uncovered but there is no airflow from under...Do you guys have some some experiences on the matter? Will it overheat?

Hello Frederik thanks for the welcome! Do you tune with a frequency counter or with a chromatic tuner? Until now I had no frequency counter, so I used a guitar tuner with an analogue meter (Boss TU-12). I first adjusted the octave scaling only until the needle doesn't jump and I did not care for the absolute tuning. After that I set the absolute tuning. This is a very fast method with a "normal" analogue synth, but with the polyphonic CS series lacking an unisono mode it is a bit annoying. I now have a multimeter, which can do frequency measurements too, so I'll try it this time with the "official" method from the service manual. On the other hand, I have already thought about establishing a kind of unisono mode, but that is too much effort for now... Florian

I have a very nice CS50 that has the problem I described in my last email (functioning but very quiet saw and ramp waves in VCO across all voices, with working PWM,PW,HPF,LPF). I'm looking to get $900 for it. Would make a great parts machine if one was so inclined as all four voices tune up fine. Includes lid and legs and a second CS50 chassis. I'm in SF bay area California

Hello I'd like to introduce myself. My name ist Florian Anwander. I live in Munich, Germany, and I am doing synth repair as side job. I work most times on Roland gear, but I did two restorations of CS-60, some repair on a CS-50 and now I have to tune and repair a CS-80. As first offer to the list, I'd like to share a simple helper trick I introduced to the CS-60s. I add a LED, that shows the active voice. http://fa.utfs.org/diy/yamaha_cs60/index.html This makes the tuning much easier. I will have a question regarding the CS-80 preset selection too, but I will do that in another mail. best regards Florian

Guys, I am working on my CS50 and it seems like the saw and square waves on the VCO are really quiet compared to everything else. They turn on and off as they should and PWM and PW and HPF and LPF all seem to affect the sound as they should, but it's just not very loud compared to everything else. Is this normal - the saw and square are really quiet, or is there perhaps a single component that needs replacement or trim pot that needs adjustment? I will add that it is the same for all four voices. Thanks, Matt

The saga continues....One of my keys (D4) seems to produce much more silent sound on some presets like Electric Piano or Guitar. When I cycle it some voices are even almost completely mute and overall this key produces much more silent sound than the rest. I don't think it's sound card related as on any other key they act just fine. And that same key works normally on other presets like Strings or Brass. Could be velocity related problem -no clue. I have changed already all the IC's on TSB and TKC boards ( but did not recap TSB's). Could a bad capacitor on one of the TSB's be a cause of tis or it's something else?

It slowly becomes a horror. I was changing 0.33 caps on my TSB2 board and while soldering I accidentally turned the synth on with my elbow ( I never leave it plugged normally!). I?ve heard high string like sound and quickly turned the synth off. I?ve finished soldering those caps and decided to test it. Now it is stuck on that damn high note no matter which key I press....I also can?t change presets... filter seems to work normally. What did I burn?

I am trying to recall, but as far as level adjusters, the top two were noise and vcf level the next was sine level the next overall vca level and the bottom one... dont touch... lol... that has to do with envelope timing.... my first to look at would be second pot from the bottom... but this is a 10 year old memory so if you have the m board schematic ... use my words as needed...

Thanks for response. The thing is there is no sound at all at first ant when it slowly comes back, it's all at once (noise and oscillators), so it can't be the separate pot level. ---In yamahacs80@..., <laurie@...> wrote: the lower controls on the front of the M cards are level adjustments for different amp stages... there is one for noise level, one for VCF level, one for Sine level, and an overall level with an envelope timing one on the bottom... I suggest going to your panel on powere up and seeing if you have sine on voice 1 right away.... if you do, it is before the sine you have issue, if you dont , it is after... it could just be a simple tweak on a touchy pot...

the lower controls on the front of the M cards are level adjustments for different amp stages... there is one for noise level, one for VCF level, one for Sine level, and an overall level with an envelope timing one on the bottom... I suggest going to your panel on powere up and seeing if you have sine on voice 1 right away.... if you do, it is before the sine you have issue, if you dont , it is after... it could just be a simple tweak on a touchy pot...

There is a strange issue with my voice card 1 on channel 1. After turning the synth on it is completely mute. But after a warmup and some gymnastics ( adjusting filters, turning osc?s on and off etc.) it slowly comes back. First as a cutting noise and then as a full working voice. It is like that every time. I think it?s not related with osc?s and filters. It?s more like an amplification problem. What could I check?

Hello, This is my first post here so - Hello everybody! My name is Tobias and last weekend I fulfilled my long time dream of getting (and actually playing for the first time) a Yamaha cs80. Unfortunately initial deep tests revealed two flaws of my machine - I have no aftertouch on middle G key and no sawtooth wave on voice1 card (channel 1). There are noise and square so I don't think it's a VCO or VCF or VCA chip. On the other cards at all channels everything seems to work fine. Anybody have an idea what it might be? Thanks in advance!