UPDATE:
I replaced the d1301/cw01b that FINALLY arrived today. The problem persists and I noticed something that I think might have happened as a result of this thing sitting on my bench forever or its possible i missed this before, but I doubt it. I have a stray wire! Does anyone know where this brown wire is supposed to go? Who knows, maybe it will fix my problem. Would be nice considering I'm STILL waiting for the Q1301. Apparently this coronavirus thing is holding up a lot of shipments. Hope everyone is well.

Finally 100% it's alive.
de W7CPA ar
The Japanese FP-301D manual is correct.
It's just a bear to markup the sheet with a pencil and then create the ordered 2 byte list for a PROM Programmer.
I did this for grins and probably will never use it.
The 10 minute timer only works if PTT is enabled for 10 minutes straight with no interruptions.
Interesting olde 1970s digital design.

Cheers all,

Wanted to chime in with thanks. I intend to do the same for my FP-301D, perhaps with a mod to actuate ID on demand. I am not long winded enough for a ten minute timer!

There's a sw on the front already for ad hoc IDs.
I'm on 3853 LSB it you's like to hear it.

Randy

Well, bad news it seems. I replaced d1301 and Q1301 and have the same problem - of course, this brown wire is still not connected to anything so that might be related, but I'm still not sure where it goes. Any ideas?
Thanks!
-Steve

Hi Steve, So one end of the brown wire is still connected one end is hanging free.? Where in the circuit is the connected end connected?? Such as junction of R14 and C28 or some other location.? That might help determine where the free end goes.

Bye for now.

So this is a bit embarrassing and frustrating. Turns out that brown wire just needed to be connected to 13 volts and now everything works! I strongly suspect that was the problem all along. I can't believe I missed this when I was checking for loose connections. Well, at least I learned a but about soldering and desoldering?thyristors!

I have a lot more work that needs to be done to this rig, but getting her to power on is a good first step! Thanks for the help guys, I'll start a new thread when I get to the next hurdle.

-Steve KI7WQH

Good job and congratulations Steve.

Thank you all for your informations, I decided to sell the FT-301D?

for little money to a ham, who is trying to put new life to the trx :-)?

73 from Vienna, good DX !?

Othmar OE1SOW

I have no clue how I missed this group/thread other than I may have been too excited to do a thing before needed to know if I had to do a thing.

I got one of these with a FT-301D and FV-301D and since I do a lot of work on old embedded/arcade stuff...I work with parallel EPROMS all the time. So I sat down a few hours ago with the schematic and basically reverse engineered that the data was timecode with sequential addressing. Actually...the minute I saw the 74151 and 7493s I started guessing when they said "time-code" in the US manual they literally meant time-code.

Anyway...the only thing I hadn't worked out was the bit length of various things, which now that I've got? the Japanese manual with that information I'll have zero guesswork when doing a mockup. I might try to write a python application that will generate an image file that'll work with image burners. I'm also considering if my clock chip doesn't work just replacing everything with an Arduino and RTC module.

73,
Jay/NQ4T

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Good stuff, keep those geezers running.
I am off on other projects for a while now.

Randy
W7CPA

Hi all,

As I stated in another thread; I am also a curious soul who wanted to get an FP-301D CW IDer working; although I took the different route of reverse engineering the basic format. Then I found that Randy/W7CPA got the Japanese manual with the programming table. It verified what I'd figured out with the exception of giving me bit lengths to work with.?I am planning on writing a small simple utility in Python (or some other language possibly) that will generate the binary data you need to write to an EPROM/EEPROM that should work with some logic level circuitry. There's also no reason this same data wouldn't be useful on the original style PROM. Data is data...you flip addresses on and you get data out. Everything else is just TTL vs CMOS and open collector vs tri-state.?

Thus far, I've made a table of letters and numbers that contain the bits needed:?

I also...using my own list...worked out "de nq4t" by hand:

75 10 1D D7 15 1C 70 00

Yes, that's all in hex. This the first thing I have to figure out the best way to handle. All the numbers and letters are varying bit-lengths and due to being time-code, you can't really just pad things between letters. You could, sure. The only real limitation you have is 8 bits of "0" triggers it to reset the ID circuit. Even the sheets say you can use fewer or more blanks between letters/words as long as you remember that rule. I think there might be a better way of doing it...because at this point I haven't even written any software...all the binary and hex I'm producing was figured out in my head.?

As you can see we actually came up with 7 bytes and a nibble. So what I'll need to do is have my software do is just pad everything out to fit evenly in bytes.

With a pre-defined table it's mostly just a case of text processing. That's not easy to do in Python so it'll take me some free time to figure it out.

I have also considered modding things to replace the 74188 and 74151 with just something like a 28256 EPROM. This would be rather easy to do by tying the address lines for the 74151 to the lower address bits and use the 74188's as the higher address bits. There's more than enough space to waste in a 256kbit EPROM; it would just make programming a LOT more difficult since rather than storing time code as bytes...you'd have to store them as specific addressing. It might be easier to just outright replace all the logic (keyer and clock) with a microcontroller too.

But I'll still get some imaging creating software done since I'll need it for my development/hacks.

73,
Jay/NQ4T

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K4EAA's site was listing them. His widow is running things for the time being; email them via the Contact info link and see if they can help.

I'd also try Earl Andrews (Netty Electronics).

73 - Fred, N8YX

Check out this link.? See if the see if the size and dimensions work out, they come in black.? Maybe we could set up a group purchase and divide a few up if it looks like they might work.

https://www.mcmaster.com/plastic-rivets/shank-style~pin-lock/

I used k4Eaa fasteners, perfect except taller.

Thanks all and for the tip of the fasteners from K4EAA.? I ordered a couple and they came quickly.? The socket end breaks and the posts become loose and fall out.? I put in only the socket from the K4EAA fasteners and used the original posts and they fit perfectly and are like the original low profile just like new.? :-)

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Great idea, now find my old broken ones to harvest center pins.

Randy