the new encoders from Syntaur are MUCH better than the originals and are high
quality. I don't see any reason why they wouldnt last as long or longer
than the NOS encoders.



On Saturday, March 23, 2013, PeWe wrote:

**

Am 23.03.2013 21:49, schrieb Omar:



good to know as an option. Ive used cleaning solutions on some of my other
gear, like my System-100m. However usually it does not change the physical
"feel" of the pot/fader movement. So if it feels tough to move or doesnt
slide smoothly and evenly, then it usually needs to be replaced regardless
of how much cleaning you do.


The original encoders never felt "smooth",- I?m 1st owner of my Xpander.
But they are very rugged and any replacements aren?t !

When we ordered the replacement encoders from Mouser, one soldering lug
broke on one of the encoders while unpacking,- and we did it careful !


Im just very particular of how faders/pots feel to the touch when being
moved. Its part of the hands-on experience and "feeling" the quality of the
instrument.


The instrument is and keeps a quality one also w/ the original encoders.

I?m sure these are cleanable for several times and I had to do it for the
1st time after a quarter of a century.
That said,- I replaced 2 of ?em many years ago w/ original parts,- that?s
why I have 2 left over now.

The Schmitt Trigger chips are very responsible for the functionality of
the rotary encoders and it was already much better after replacement of the
chips w/ rotarys uncleaned.
The clean job was the ice on the cake then.
I haven?t done it myself,- my tech did and he worked in a very well known
music shop in my hometown as a service tech already in the 80s, so he had
experience disassembling the Xpander and opening the rotarys.

We did a almost complete overhaul, step by step and up to now,- replaced
all switches and re-capped the PSU.

I also had the issue tuning proceedure failed on some voices randomly when
pushing the [ALL] button.
After the switch was replaced,- no issues anymore so it seemed it double
triggered.

My original intention was also to replace all the 2.2uF voiceboard caps,-
but that was totally unnecessary,- it works and sounds like a charme again.

Now for the future, I don?t want to overstress the beauty like I did when
touring w/ it,- so I?ll buy Xplorer application in addition.
I hope it gets Multi-Patch support one day.


how do your Xpander encoders feel after cleaning them?


They feel like they did when I buyed it new,- see above ...
They are relatively loud and have some resistance though.

But I?ve found it better to keep the instrument as original as it can be,-
so replacing stuff by other parts is the last option for me.
I?m pretty sure, none of todays replacement encoder will last that long as
the originals did and do.

I?m happy I didn?t have to modify much,- not to deal w/ different encoder
bushing sizes and different debounce parts.

Your milage may vary ...

PeWe

----- Original Message -----

From: PeWe

To: xpantastic@...

Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2013 11:00 PM

Subject: Re: [xpantastic] Removing the Encoder caps

?

I didn?t replace any encoder in the end,- just replaced the Schmitt-Trigger chips and cleaned the original rotarys w/ Servisol Super 10 !

The replacements are still in the box,- o.k. ?

Even the 2 rotarys which were replaced in 1990 were new original Oberheim parts.

There?s nothing not being original in my Xpander and I like that !

Am 23.03.2013 22:49, schrieb Omar:

?

if you said the replacments your purchased were just as loud and?as "clicky" as the originals, then I'm telling you they are not the same.?

if you said the replacments your purchased were just as loud andas "clicky" as the originals, then I'm telling you they are not the same.

If you don't recap, caps could fail and in turn destroy CEM chips like filters and oscillators.

I had to replace a CEM3374 "Dual VCO chip "due to a capacitor had failed, very expensive component and very hard to find !

?

I?d go for that kit too when in need to replace,- just because it?s complete w/ the rubber rings and debounce caps.

But I think the encoders are the same we ordered from Mouser.
Unfortunately my tech ordered using his paypal account, so I don?t have the part numbers at hand actually.

Compared to the originals, these aren?t inspiring confidence very much.

But when your rotarys are totally worn out, you have no option.

I?d try replacing Schmitt-Triggers 1st, then clean the originals and when it doesn?t help,- then replace.

PeWe


Am 23.03.2013 22:21, schrieb orangefunk:

?

Thanks I will look into getting the Syntaur solution... it isn't so expensive really...

the new encoders from Syntaur are MUCH better than the originals and arehigh quality. I don't see any reason why they wouldnt last as long or longer than the NOS encoders.

?

>>>

Am 23.03.2013 21:49, schrieb Omar:

?

good to know as an option. Ive used cleaning solutions on some of my other gear, like my System-100m. However usually it does not change the physical "feel" of the pot/fader movement. So if it feels tough to move or doesnt slide smoothly and evenly, then it usually needs to be replaced regardless of how much cleaning you do.

The original encoders never felt "smooth",- I?m 1st owner of my Xpander.
But they are very rugged and any replacements aren?t !

When we ordered the replacement encoders from Mouser, one soldering lug broke on one of the encoders while unpacking,- and we did it careful !

Im just very particular of how faders/pots feel to the touch when being moved. Its part of the hands-on experience and "feeling" the quality of the instrument.

The instrument is and keeps a quality one also w/ the original encoders.

I?m sure these are cleanable for several times and I had to do it for the 1st time after a quarter of a century.
That said,- I replaced 2 of ?em many years ago w/ original parts,- that?s why I have 2 left over now.

The Schmitt Trigger chips are very responsible for the functionality of the rotary encoders and it was already much better after replacement of the chips w/ rotarys uncleaned.
The clean job was the ice on the cake then.
I haven?t done it myself,- my tech did and he worked in a very well known music shop in my hometown as a service tech already in the 80s, so he had experience disassembling the Xpander and opening the rotarys.

We did a almost complete overhaul, step by step and up to now,- replaced all switches and re-capped the PSU.

I also had the issue tuning proceedure failed on some voices randomly when pushing the [ALL] button.
After the switch was replaced,- no issues anymore so it seemed it double triggered.

My original intention was also to replace all the 2.2uF voiceboard caps,- but that was totally unnecessary,- it works and sounds like a charme again.

Now for the future, I don?t want to overstress the beauty like I did when touring w/ it,- so I?ll buy Xplorer application in addition.
I hope it gets Multi-Patch support one day.

how do your Xpander encoders feel after cleaning them?

They feel like they did when I buyed it new,- see above ...
They are relatively loud and have some resistance though.

But I?ve found it better to keep the instrument as original as it can be,- so replacing stuff by other parts is the last option for me.
I?m pretty sure, none of todays replacement encoder will last that long as the originals did and do.

I?m happy I didn?t have to modify much,- not to deal w/ different encoder bushing sizes and different debounce parts.

Your milage may vary ...

PeWe

Thanks I will look into getting the Syntaur solution... it isn't so expensive really...

?

>>>

Am 23.03.2013 21:49, schrieb Omar:

?

good to know as an option. Ive used cleaning solutions on some of my other gear, like my System-100m. However usually it does not change the physical "feel" of the pot/fader movement. So if it feels tough to move or doesnt slide smoothly and evenly, then it usually needs to be replaced regardless of how much cleaning you do.

The original encoders never felt "smooth",- I?m 1st owner of my Xpander.
But they are very rugged and any replacements aren?t !

When we ordered the replacement encoders from Mouser, one soldering lug broke on one of the encoders while unpacking,- and we did it careful !

Im just very particular of how faders/pots feel to the touch when being moved. Its part of the hands-on experience and "feeling" the quality of the instrument.

The instrument is and keeps a quality one also w/ the original encoders.

I?m sure these are cleanable for several times and I had to do it for the 1st time after a quarter of a century.
That said,- I replaced 2 of ?em many years ago w/ original parts,- that?s why I have 2 left over now.

The Schmitt Trigger chips are very responsible for the functionality of the rotary encoders and it was already much better after replacement of the chips w/ rotarys uncleaned.
The clean job was the ice on the cake then.
I haven?t done it myself,- my tech did and he worked in a very well known music shop in my hometown as a service tech already in the 80s, so he had experience disassembling the Xpander and opening the rotarys.

We did a almost complete overhaul, step by step and up to now,- replaced all switches and re-capped the PSU.

I also had the issue tuning proceedure failed on some voices randomly when pushing the [ALL] button.
After the switch was replaced,- no issues anymore so it seemed it double triggered.

My original intention was also to replace all the 2.2uF voiceboard caps,- but that was totally unnecessary,- it works and sounds like a charme again.

Now for the future, I don?t want to overstress the beauty like I did when touring w/ it,- so I?ll buy Xplorer application in addition.
I hope it gets Multi-Patch support one day.

how do your Xpander encoders feel after cleaning them?

They feel like they did when I buyed it new,- see above ...
They are relatively loud and have some resistance though.

But I?ve found it better to keep the instrument as original as it can be,- so replacing stuff by other parts is the last option for me.
I?m pretty sure, none of todays replacement encoder will last that long as the originals did and do.

I?m happy I didn?t have to modify much,- not to deal w/ different encoder bushing sizes and different debounce parts.

Your milage may vary ...

PeWe

I agree, cleaning is a temporary solution IMO and I've had similar
experiences as you.

you need the debounce capacitors. And the kit I used was the same kit from
Syntaur. High quality encoders and well worth it.



On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

**


I originally cleaned my encoders with Deoxit that I was given by DSI to
clean my PolyEvolver (which degraded after only a year). I only did 2 drops
in each encoder and everything worked perfectly...

However, the fix is only temporary (on both the DSI and Oberheim) and
gradually the problems come back... on the DSI the problem was back in 1
year, on the Oberheim it took 2 years but I hadn't used it a lot in that
time.

So I can do the same again or change the encoders and I am favouring the
encoder change.

The question is... which encoders? I have seen the encoder set at syntaur
and that also has debouncers (are these needed?) but I am wondering if a
cheaper alternative exists... these encoders are literally a dollar a piece
aren't they?

--- In xpantastic@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
'xpantastic%40yahoogroups.com');>, PeWe <ha-pewe@> wrote:

We replaced the Schmitt-Trigger chips in my Xpander and cleaned the
rotarys w/ Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner even we had buyed
replacements alread and were about replacing the old ones.
My Xpander now works like new w/ the original rotarys.
I now have 2 originals left as spare parts ?cause these can be cleaned
too AND 6 of the new replacement encoders,- enough for the rest of my

life.

In fact, we did that by interest and were surprised how good it worked,-
so we kept the originals and it also saved some work and time.


Am 23.03.2013 21:11, schrieb Omar:

I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted
very tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the
encoder shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from
unit to unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it
underneath the cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap
itself. Once I got the blade under the edge, I only had to apply a
small bit off pressure to lift them off.


Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing
the actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get
off on a couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple
of them which made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid
connection. I eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious
work though.

good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders
on the Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and
"clicky" as the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation.
And they turn much faster while still giving pecise movement when
slowed down.


On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is
out and another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer
software but functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the
current encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are
glued on and won't budge a millimetre. How are they fastened?
Should they come off easily?

Best regards

?

I originally cleaned my encoders with Deoxit that I was given by DSI to clean my PolyEvolver (which degraded after only a year). I only did 2 drops in each encoder and everything worked perfectly...

However, the fix is only temporary (on both the DSI and Oberheim) and gradually the problems come back... on the DSI the problem was back in 1 year, on the Oberheim it took 2 years but I hadn't used it a lot in that time.

So I can do the same again or change the encoders and I am favouring the encoder change.

The question is... which encoders? I have seen the encoder set at syntaur and that also has debouncers (are these needed?) but I am wondering if a cheaper alternative exists... these encoders are literally a dollar a piece aren't they?

--- In xpantastic@..., PeWe wrote:
>
> We replaced the Schmitt-Trigger chips in my Xpander and cleaned the
> rotarys w/ Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner even we had buyed
> replacements alread and were about replacing the old ones.
> My Xpander now works like new w/ the original rotarys.
> I now have 2 originals left as spare parts ?cause these can be cleaned
> too AND 6 of the new replacement encoders,- enough for the rest of my life.
>
> In fact, we did that by interest and were surprised how good it worked,-
> so we kept the originals and it also saved some work and time.
>
>
> Am 23.03.2013 21:11, schrieb Omar:
> >
> > I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
> > difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
> > slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted
> > very tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the
> > encoder shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from
> > unit to unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it
> > underneath the cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap
> > itself. Once I got the blade under the edge, I only had to apply a
> > small bit off pressure to lift them off.
> >
> >
> > Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing
> > the actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get
> > off on a couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple
> > of them which made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid
> > connection. I eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious
> > work though.
> >
> > good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders
> > on the Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and
> > "clicky" as the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation.
> > And they turn much faster while still giving pecise movement when
> > slowed down.
> >
> >
> > On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:
> >
> > Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is
> > out and another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer
> > software but functions like pan position aren't possible from it.
> >
> > But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the
> > current encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are
> > glued on and won't budge a millimetre. How are they fastened?
> > Should they come off easily?
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> >
>

We replaced the Schmitt-Trigger chips in my Xpander and cleaned the
rotarys w/ Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner even we had buyed
replacements alread and were about replacing the old ones.
My Xpander now works like new w/ the original rotarys.
I now have 2 originals left as spare parts ?cause these can be cleaned
too AND 6 of the new replacement encoders,- enough for the rest of my life.

In fact, we did that by interest and were surprised how good it worked,-
so we kept the originals and it also saved some work and time.


Am 23.03.2013 21:11, schrieb Omar:

I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted
very tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the
encoder shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from
unit to unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it
underneath the cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap
itself. Once I got the blade under the edge, I only had to apply a
small bit off pressure to lift them off.


Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing
the actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get
off on a couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple
of them which made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid
connection. I eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious
work though.

good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders
on the Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and
"clicky" as the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation.
And they turn much faster while still giving pecise movement when
slowed down.


On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is
out and another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer
software but functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the
current encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are
glued on and won't budge a millimetre. How are they fastened?
Should they come off easily?

Best regards

?

We replaced the Schmitt-Trigger chips in my Xpander and cleaned the rotarys w/ Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner even we had buyed replacements alread and were about replacing the old ones.
My Xpander now works like new w/ the original rotarys.
I now have 2 originals left as spare parts ?cause these can be cleaned too AND 6 of the new replacement encoders,- enough for the rest of my life.

In fact, we did that by interest and were surprised how good it worked,- so we kept the originals and it also saved some work and time.


Am 23.03.2013 21:11, schrieb Omar:

?

I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that difficult to get the caps off the encoders.?they should come up with a slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that?they are fitted very tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the encoder shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from unit to unit).?I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it underneath the cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap itself. Once I got?the blade under the edge, I only had to apply a small bit off pressure to lift them off.?

Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing the actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get off on a couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple of them which made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid connection. I eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious work though.

good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new?encoders on?the Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and "clicky" as the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation. And they turn much faster while still giving pecise movement when slowed down.

On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

?

Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out and another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the current encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and won't budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?

Best regards

?

Brilliant! That was it!

--- In xpantastic@..., Omar wrote:
>
> Lets make sure you are doing the right thing.
> When I say "cap", I am referring to the small little cap on the very top of
> the plastic encoder. Not the entire encoder itself. It looks like its one
> whole piece, but the very top of each encoder is a small "cap" that fits on
> the shaft of the encoder. It's this cap that you remove per the info I gave
> below.
>
> Once you remove the small cap at the top, then it will expose a screw
> inside the casing of the shaft that you can losen. Once loosened up, it
> will allow you to remove the entire plastic encoder casing.
>
> -o
>
>
>
> On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Many thanks! I will give it a try... I tried with a penknife but I
> > honestly felt like I would break the unit if I applied anymore pressure.
> >
> > --- In xpantastic@... > > 'xpantastic%');>, Omar wrote:
> > >
> > > I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
> > > difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
> > > slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted very
> > > tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the encoder
> > > shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from unit to
> > > unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it underneath the
> > > cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap itself. Once I got the
> > > blade under the edge, I only had to apply a small bit off pressure to
> > lift
> > > them off.
> > >
> > > Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing the
> > > actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get off
> > on a
> > > couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple of them
> > which
> > > made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid connection. I
> > > eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious work though.
> > >
> > > good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders on
> > the
> > > Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and "clicky"
> > as
> > > the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation. And they turn
> > much
> > > faster while still giving pecise movement when slowed down.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:
> > >
> > > > **
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out
> > and
> > > > another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but
> > > > functions like pan position aren't possible from it.
> > > >
> > > > But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the
> > current
> > > > encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and
> > won't
> > > > budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?
> > > >
> > > > Best regards
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

Lets make sure you are doing the right thing.
When I say "cap", I am referring to the small little cap on the very top of
the plastic encoder. Not the entire encoder itself. It looks like its one
whole piece, but the very top of each encoder is a small "cap" that fits on
the shaft of the encoder. It's this cap that you remove per the info I gave
below.

Once you remove the small cap at the top, then it will expose a screw
inside the casing of the shaft that you can losen. Once loosened up, it
will allow you to remove the entire plastic encoder casing.

-o



On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

**


Many thanks! I will give it a try... I tried with a penknife but I
honestly felt like I would break the unit if I applied anymore pressure.

--- In xpantastic@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
'xpantastic%40yahoogroups.com');>, Omar <holografique@> wrote:

I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted very
tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the encoder
shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from unit to
unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it underneath the
cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap itself. Once I got the
blade under the edge, I only had to apply a small bit off pressure to

lift

them off.

Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing the
actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get off

on a

couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple of them

which

made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid connection. I
eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious work though.

good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders on

the

Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and "clicky"

as

the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation. And they turn

much

faster while still giving pecise movement when slowed down.


On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

**


Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out

and

another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but
functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the

current

encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and

won't

budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?

Best regards

I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that difficult to get the caps off the encoders.they should come up with a slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is thatthey are fitted very tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the encoder shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from unit to unit).I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it underneath the cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap itself. Once I gotthe blade under the edge, I only had to apply a small bit off pressure to lift them off.

Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing the actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get off on a couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple of them which made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid connection. I eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious work though.

good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of newencoders onthe Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and "clicky" as the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation. And they turn much faster while still giving pecise movement when slowed down.

On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out and another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the current encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and won't budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?

Best regards

?

Many thanks! I will give it a try... I tried with a penknife but I honestly felt like I would break the unit if I applied anymore pressure.

--- In xpantastic@..., Omar wrote:
>
> I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
> difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
> slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted very
> tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the encoder
> shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from unit to
> unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it underneath the
> cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap itself. Once I got the
> blade under the edge, I only had to apply a small bit off pressure to lift
> them off.
>
> Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing the
> actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get off on a
> couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple of them which
> made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid connection. I
> eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious work though.
>
> good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders on the
> Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and "clicky" as
> the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation. And they turn much
> faster while still giving pecise movement when slowed down.
>
>
> On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out and
> > another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but
> > functions like pan position aren't possible from it.
> >
> > But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the current
> > encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and won't
> > budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> >
> >
>

I recently replaced the encoders on my Xpander and it was not that
difficult to get the caps off the encoders. they should come up with a
slight amount of pressure. The tricky part is that they are fitted very
tight with very little "space" between the cap and the rim of the encoder
shaft (at least mine were fitted very tight. It may vary from unit to
unit). I had to use an exacto-blade and carefully work it underneath the
cap edge as to not damage the encoder or the cap itself. Once I got the
blade under the edge, I only had to apply a small bit off pressure to lift
them off.

Also make sure you use the right desoldering technique when replacing the
actual encoders. The old solder on my Xpander was difficult to get off on a
couple of the encoders, and eventually I had to clip a couple of them which
made it diificult to get the new ones to get a solid connection. I
eventually got a stable solder down. Long and tedious work though.

good luck. Its worth it in the end. I love the feel of new encoders on the
Xpander. They are still detented, but nowhere near as loud and "clicky" as
the originals were. Much smoother and quiter operation. And they turn much
faster while still giving pecise movement when slowed down.


On Saturday, March 23, 2013, orangefunk wrote:

**


Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out and
another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but
functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the current
encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and won't
budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?

Best regards

?

Thinking of replacing the encoders at some point as one of them is out and another is intermittent. I have the excellent Xplorer software but functions like pan position aren't possible from it.

But I am having some concern about how to remove the caps from the current encoders. The ones on my Matrix 12 feel like they are glued on and won't budge a millimetre. How are they fastened? Should they come off easily?

Best regards