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Rear Main seal


 

In a message dated 10/28/98 5:54:04 PM Central Standard Time, kravitzd@...
writes:

<< From: kravitzd@...

Tech team,

Need some wrenching help. Has anyone broken the code on effectively
installing the early series 6-226 (54-60?) rear main seal?

So far we have tried installing the lovely ropes twice, and have tried a late
series neoprene seal kit (which is designed to work if you have installed a
crank from a 230).
>>

Dan, What kind of end play does your crank have? What is the condition of
your crank bearings? Have you mic ed them? If your crank isn't jumping
around, the rope seals should work. Do the ends of the seal overlap. If so,
the direction they overlap could be the problem. The directional rotation of
the crank could be forceing the ends open instead of closed. I've never
changed this seal on an L-226 but I have changed a couple of rope seals on
other engines without problems. I don't know if I've helped. Just my 2 cents
worth.

Rick S


 

Tech team,

Need some wrenching help. Has anyone broken the code on effectively installing the early series 6-226 (54-60?) rear main seal?

So far we have tried installing the lovely ropes twice, and have tried a late series neoprene seal kit (which is designed to work if you have installed a crank from a 230).

Outback Benjie, you there?

If you have done this, and your beloved does not lose her vital fluids after operation, please share with me your secret.

Frank, you haven't snuck a sleeping bag out to the garage yet have you? Just checking.

Respectfully, Dan


Frank Wood
 

Captain Dan, the brill cream must not have done the trick.

No sleeping bag yet.
I do have coffee with my chassis in the morning before work and I make a
point to peek out there in the evening before I go to bed. The sandblaster
has been served with my claim and did not respond which means I will be
getting a court date in a couple of months unless I can figure out how to
file for a default judgment before then.
Got my front axle assembly bolted on on Sunday. Looks beautiful. Rear
axle next. The rear springs I bought from Carl have some kind of paraffin
coating on them. No paint. I asked Carl today (I call him on a daily
basis) if I could paint them. He said the wax stuff was just to
"lubricate" between the springs and I could paint them with no harm done.
Any opinions? I have thought about painting them black like the front
pair are painted, but my manual says not to.
Cheers, Frank

Frank, you haven't snuck a sleeping bag out to the garage yet have you?
Just checking.

Respectfully, Dan

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Usnick, Mark
 

Frank-

I've spent some time hanging around at Texas Spring in
Amarillo, talking with the owner - *the* authority on spring
rebuilds, upgrades, etc in the Texas Panhandle. It's a
great big dark shop with a couple of forges, great big
trucks parked around with the axles removed (most of
his work in commercial), soot everywhere, etc. It's great!

He made me four new leafs (the main leaf from each spring),
and checked out the rest of my spring packs. His policy
was to slap a coat of pain on his newly assembled spring
packs (not each leaf separately). I asked him what kind of
paint he used. I can't remember the name off hand, but I
do recall that he used what he used because it was cheap,
not because it was especially good. He said that Kelley
Moore KellGuard was very good oil base paint for the frame,
etc, but on the springs "it don't really matter because it'll
all be gone in six months".

That's probably true. I told him not to paint mine, and instead
took them home, brushed em up good, primed and painted
with the KellGuard, and six months later, they're not looking
too great anymore - especially next to each other where
they rub. The stationary parts (U bolts, etc) all look fine.

My jeep is not street legal and I only use it around home, and
the occasional trip (on a trailer) to the mountains. I'm sure if
somebody drove their jeep regularly, the spring paint job would
look even worse.

My advice: Go ahead and paint em. One thing I would have
done different is I should NOT have primed them. Since the
primer is a different color, as the paint flakes off, the lighter
color below shows up, making the job look sloppy. Just
put on the black paint only (that's what the spring guy does!).

Mark
'56 CJ5
'41 Ford 9N

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Wood [SMTP:ftwood@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 6:53 PM
To: 'WillysTech@...'
Subject: [WT] Re: Rear Main seal

From: Frank Wood <ftwood@...>

Captain Dan, the brill cream must not have done the trick.

No sleeping bag yet.
I do have coffee with my chassis in the morning before work and I make
a
point to peek out there in the evening before I go to bed. The
sandblaster
has been served with my claim and did not respond which means I will
be
getting a court date in a couple of months unless I can figure out how
to
file for a default judgment before then.
Got my front axle assembly bolted on on Sunday. Looks beautiful.
Rear
axle next. The rear springs I bought from Carl have some kind of
paraffin
coating on them. No paint. I asked Carl today (I call him on a daily

basis) if I could paint them. He said the wax stuff was just to
"lubricate" between the springs and I could paint them with no harm
done.
Any opinions? I have thought about painting them black like the
front
pair are painted, but my manual says not to.
Cheers, Frank

Frank, you haven't snuck a sleeping bag out to the garage yet have
you?
Just checking.

Respectfully, Dan

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Go to and access the User Center
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Merl
 

Can't help you with the seal on a 226, but I did the neoprene rear seal
on my L-134 about two months ago. Before I did it I was told that it
probably wouldn't work if the crank or rear main bearing was overly worn,
and if it did it'd only work for a "little while". I don't put a lot of
miles on it, but after 200 miles or so if its leaking at all its so
little that I can live with it.

kravitzd@... wrote:


From: kravitzd@...

Tech team,

Need some wrenching help. Has anyone broken the code on effectively installing the early series 6-226 (54-60?) rear main seal?

So far we have tried installing the lovely ropes twice, and have tried a late series neoprene seal kit (which is designed to work if you have installed a crank from a 230).

Outback Benjie, you there?

If you have done this, and your beloved does not lose her vital fluids after operation, please share with me your secret.

Frank, you haven't snuck a sleeping bag out to the garage yet have you? Just checking.

Respectfully, Dan
--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****


"Ben Page" <[email protected]
 

Tech team,

Need some wrenching help. Has anyone broken the code on effectively
installing the early series 6-226 (54-60?) rear main seal?

So far we have tried installing the lovely ropes twice, and have tried a late
series neoprene seal kit (which is designed to work if you have installed a
crank from a 230).
>>

Dan, What kind of end play does your crank have? What is the condition of
your crank bearings? Have you mic ed them? If your crank isn't jumping
around, the rope seals should work. Do the ends of the seal overlap. If so,
the direction they overlap could be the problem. The directional rotation of
the crank could be forceing the ends open instead of closed. I've never
changed this seal on an L-226 but I have changed a couple of rope seals on
other engines without problems. I don't know if I've helped. Just my 2 cents
worth.

Rick S
I would suggest that you "plastiguage" your bearings and ensure that you
are using the correct caps on the correct journals. Hope you marked them
when you remeoved them<giggle>
Does this help?
All the best,

Ben Page
1942 GPW "Mr Peeps"(Restored-Factory Original)
1943 Jeep Trailer "Jack"(Restored-Factory Original)
1965 475 4X4 Pickup OHC "Wilbur"(Original) Daily
1984 GW Limited "Jemma"