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The heater doesn't seem to be working on our '65 wagon.? A quick check of the vacuum tubes shows nothing obviously wrong.? The control panel's push buttons won't stay in place when pushed in.? This seems to be due to a missing spring.? There is a bar that engages the rods attached to the push buttons.? I have included 2 pictures of the rod in up and down positions (see the pencil).? There must be some way for the bar to stay up on its own... a missing spring?
The last photo shows a curious tab that seems to hold a felt in place.? Ours isn't touching the felt, so should I bend it in so that it does touch?
Thanks for any advice.
Pavel up North.
ps: there was someone in the Willys World who could renew the letters on the front control cover.? Can anyone remember who did that work?
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I can send you pictures of mine tomorrow, it works fine.
On Sat, Sep 24, 2022, 5:17 PM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: The heater doesn't seem to be working on our '65 wagon.? A quick check of the vacuum tubes shows nothing obviously wrong.? The control panel's push buttons won't stay in place when pushed in.? This seems to be due to a missing spring.? There is a bar that engages the rods attached to the push buttons.? I have included 2 pictures of the rod in up and down positions (see the pencil).? There must be some way for the bar to stay up on its own... a missing spring?
The last photo shows a curious tab that seems to hold a felt in place.? Ours isn't touching the felt, so should I bend it in so that it does touch?
Thanks for any advice.
Pavel up North.
ps: there was someone in the Willys World who could renew the letters on the front control cover.? Can anyone remember who did that work?
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Hi Pavel--
on your 2nd pic of the underside you can see 2 tabs in the center of the middle brackets where you are missing a spring.? the spring keeps the back bracket raise to lock the newly selected button in place but release the previously pressed button - so push in button, pushed bracket back which releases any other button selection but then pops pack up to "grab" the one you're pressing.??
on the vacuum valve itself, looks like you might be missing a locking screw if i recall,? i have a spare one of these somewhere that should still show the lock on the valve, i think.? there were some posts on OWF as well i believe on refurbish these way back and I think on here in the knowledgebase if it migrated.
greg
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Thank you Jay and Greg. ?I¡¯ll look back through the files on both forums., might get lucky. ?I have boxes full of old springs, might find something that would work.
The whole assembly could use a little lithium grease¡
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Hi Pavel--
on your 2nd pic of the underside you can see 2 tabs in the center of the middle brackets where you are missing a spring.? the spring keeps the back bracket raise to lock the newly selected button in place but release the previously pressed button - so push in button, pushed bracket back which releases any other button selection but then pops pack up to "grab" the one you're pressing.??
on the vacuum valve itself, looks like you might be missing a locking screw if i recall,? i have a spare one of these somewhere that should still show the lock on the valve, i think.? there were some posts on OWF as well i believe on refurbish these way back and I think on here in the knowledgebase if it migrated.
greg
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Sorry for being so late been working on my garage and forgot. This was the best?I could do.
Hi Pavel--
on your 2nd pic of the underside you can see 2 tabs in the center of the middle brackets where you are missing a spring.? the spring keeps the back bracket raise to lock the newly selected button in place but release the previously pressed button - so push in button, pushed bracket back which releases any other button selection but then pops pack up to "grab" the one you're pressing.??
on the vacuum valve itself, looks like you might be missing a locking screw if i recall,? i have a spare one of these somewhere that should still show the lock on the valve, i think.? there were some posts on OWF as well i believe on refurbish these way back and I think on here in the knowledgebase if it migrated.
greg
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Jay and Greg, ?I can see the funny little tab sticking up on the bar that is supposed to have a spring. ?In the blurry picture, I think the spring position can be made out. ?Of course, I have no idea what type of spring to use but something should be ¡°fabricatable¡±.. ?I¡¯ll update this soon. ?Any further information as to what type of spring to use is appreciated!
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On Sep 26, 2022, at 4:56 PM, jay bernhardt < bitrootvz@...> wrote:
Sorry for being so late been working on my garage and forgot. This was the best?I could do. Hi Pavel--
on your 2nd pic of the underside you can see 2 tabs in the center of the middle brackets where you are missing a spring.? the spring keeps the back bracket raise to lock the newly selected button in place but release the previously pressed button - so push in button, pushed bracket back which releases any other button selection but then pops pack up to "grab" the one you're pressing.??
on the vacuum valve itself, looks like you might be missing a locking screw if i recall,? i have a spare one of these somewhere that should still show the lock on the valve, i think.? there were some posts on OWF as well i believe on refurbish these way back and I think on here in the knowledgebase if it migrated.
greg
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Here's an attempt to add a spring to keep the "bar" in a raised position.? The spring I used is a bit too strong but works.? I used SS safety wire? to bind the top and bottom extremities of the spring - very crude, but at least this will allow me to find out what else is wrong with the heater control.
The "actuators" on the heater box that move due to vacuum may also be wonky - one seemed to be sticky.? Next, its time to take the Mrs for a ride around town and to test the heater function.
PuN.
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You know the spring goes on top and towards the tab across from it
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 2:32 PM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: Here's an attempt to add a spring to keep the "bar" in a raised position.? The spring I used is a bit too strong but works.? I used SS safety wire? to bind the top and bottom extremities of the spring - very crude, but at least this will allow me to find out what else is wrong with the heater control.
The "actuators" on the heater box that move due to vacuum may also be wonky - one seemed to be sticky.? Next, its time to take the Mrs for a ride around town and to test the heater function.
PuN.
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Looks like he's using a compression spring, so the way he's got it would work, if not exactly "factory".
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 6:51 PM jay bernhardt < bitrootvz@...> wrote: You know the spring goes on top and towards the tab across from it
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 2:32 PM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: Here's an attempt to add a spring to keep the "bar" in a raised position.? The spring I used is a bit too strong but works.? I used SS safety wire? to bind the top and bottom extremities of the spring - very crude, but at least this will allow me to find out what else is wrong with the heater control.
The "actuators" on the heater box that move due to vacuum may also be wonky - one seemed to be sticky.? Next, its time to take the Mrs for a ride around town and to test the heater function.
PuN.
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Yes, I know the correct factory spring should be on top but I couldn't find one in the basement that would fit.? If anyone has a picture of the correct spring, I can try again...
The face of the control panel needs painting and re-lettering, so it all has to come apart again in future.
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I don't think that will lift the upper lip of that back bar forward which is how it catches the button arms.? The tab at the top of that bar and the tab about an inch in front of it is where you attach a very thin and light spring that stretches and keeps the back bar lifted and forward.
You can test the actuator by extending it and holding your finger over the hose attachment, if it stays extended, the vacuum is good -- if the arm moves, the actuator is bad.
On the vacuum actuators, you can purchase replacements--I have seen them on eBay.?
Hope this helps,
Greg
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Make sure you have the hoses on correct as I'm sure one is a supply to the other two.
I don't think that will lift the upper lip of that back bar forward which is how it catches the button arms.? The tab at the top of that bar and the tab about an inch in front of it is where you attach a very thin and light spring that stretches and keeps the back bar lifted and forward.
You can test the actuator by extending it and holding your finger over the hose attachment, if it stays extended, the vacuum is good -- if the arm moves, the actuator is bad.
On the vacuum actuators, you can purchase replacements--I have seen them on eBay.?
Hope this helps,
Greg
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Yes, the input hose from the engine has plenty of vacuum to the finger test - should have marked the three hoses better.? Have to button it up today just enough for the yearly end of summer drive promised to the Mrs.? It's not easy to know if The Lady actually enjoys crashing around in the old vehicle as much as I do.... but she hasn't refused to go so far.? Perhaps if I leave a box of Lindor chocolates on the seat - no wait, she might just grab the box and run... the enticement should be at the beach destination - perhaps a Fudgsicle at the kiosk... more economical.
BTW, fuel costs are highest in N. America here in BC.? Paid $2.35.9/ liter yesterday (and prices are supposed to go up to over $2.40 today).? That's about $6.50 USD per US gallon for regular.? Non-ethanol premium is $2.55.9 /liter.? Oil companies do very well in Canada !!!
PuN.
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Ya that is pricey I have moved from north Idaho to new Hampshire. Shipped Trixie (62.5 wagon) she traveled more miles on a trailer than I've driven her since I restored her. bought a 54 utility box truck out here last year and have it torn down to start the restoration?process.?
On Sat, Oct 1, 2022, 11:45 AM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: Yes, the input hose from the engine has plenty of vacuum to the finger test - should have marked the three hoses better.? Have to button it up today just enough for the yearly end of summer drive promised to the Mrs.? It's not easy to know if The Lady actually enjoys crashing around in the old vehicle as much as I do.... but she hasn't refused to go so far.? Perhaps if I leave a box of Lindor chocolates on the seat - no wait, she might just grab the box and run... the enticement should be at the beach destination - perhaps a Fudgsicle at the kiosk... more economical.
BTW, fuel costs are highest in N. America here in BC.? Paid $2.35.9/ liter yesterday (and prices are supposed to go up to over $2.40 today).? That's about $6.50 USD per US gallon for regular.? Non-ethanol premium is $2.55.9 /liter.? Oil companies do very well in Canada !!!
PuN.
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Attractive ladies all.? Just imagine the number of batteries you fit under the box of that pickup...
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How much do you think it would cost to go electric?
On Sun, Oct 2, 2022, 11:30 AM willyswagon230 < pavelb@...> wrote: Attractive ladies all.? Just imagine the number of batteries you fit under the box of that pickup...
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I contacted the EV West people (California) a few years back.? They sent a list of the components they think would do the job (no labour cost included of course)... it came to $15k including 30 kWh batteries if memory serves.? The way the world is going, I think this route is making more and more sense.
When you consider the number of Willys/Scout vehicles out there that use the D18/D20 transfer case, a kit of $15-20k would probably sell very well.
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Greg,
Tested the two actuators as you suggested.? Sure enough, one works and one doesn't.? So there's another repair to add to the list.
PuN.
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jay bernhardt
Sean Kerns
