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I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Right or wrong, I always just used 10w30 in my ‘48 2A. IIRC, the manual recommends straight 30W, but they used to use things to think it in colder?weather. Straight 30 is tough to crank in cold weather, esp with the original 6V electronics.? Be aware though, the talk of oil brands in grades often starts to resemble a debate over religion. People usually have pretty strong feelings about what’s good and bad.
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Sorry for the voice to text errors. They used to “thin” it, not think it. And of course, that should be “brands and grades”.?
On Thu, Jan 23, 2020 at 12:46 PM Sean Kerns via Groups.Io <seankerns= [email protected]> wrote: Right or wrong, I always just used 10w30 in my ‘48 2A. IIRC, the manual recommends straight 30W, but they used to use things to think it in colder?weather. Straight 30 is tough to crank in cold weather, esp with the original 6V electronics.? Be aware though, the talk of oil brands in grades often starts to resemble a debate over religion. People usually have pretty strong feelings about what’s good and bad.
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
I use Brad Penn or now as it’s labeled PennGrade 10-30 in my 49 Studebaker. It was recommended by the engine builder, Schnell Automotive in Portland.
?
Dan
|
I use 30 w in both of my Willys. Adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the mix, plus occasionally in the gas. My dad swore by this stuff and I have used it since owning both my Willys.
|
He is correct.? Read this article and make up your own mind.? My
mechanic swears that the reduction of Zinc is a major concern and
will not put an older engine together without it addition or using
an oil that is formulated for the older cars.
SF
On 1/23/2020 10:36 AM, Dan Mulholland
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil
that includes additives to protect the valve train is important
with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern
oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to
PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
? ? From:
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:37 AM
Subject: ? I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these: "This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep. This might be easier for you to get locally. Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Amsoil makes a oil that is for break in and for older cars i use
it in my old jeeps and my old GAS CATS & IH crawlers
On 1/23/2020 10:57 AM, Dan Williams
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
?
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:37 AM
Subject:
?
I've
got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil
that includes additives to protect the valve train is
important with old engines; that these additives were
removed from modern oils to protect catalytic
converters.?? He suggested these:
"This
is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I
recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This
might be easier for you to get locally.
Since
I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
I've been using Dello in Tinkertoy for about 10 years without any
adverse affects. When we were running the blown alcohol funnycar
the machine shop that prepped our block recommended it for break
in. After break in we switched to Lucas Oil.
John
'56 Pickup TKER TOY
Graham, Wash.
On 1/23/2020 9:58 AM, SF wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
He is correct.??? Read this article and make up your own mind.???
My mechanic swears that the reduction of Zinc is a major concern
and will not put an older engine together without it addition or
using an oil that is formulated for the older cars.
SF
On 1/23/2020 10:36 AM, Dan Mulholland
wrote:
I've got a friend, a
retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes
additives to protect the valve train is important with old
engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to
protect catalytic converters.?????? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to
PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Unfortunately, the Zinc and Phosphorous content for Anti-Wear/Scuffing has continued to decline in HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oils). The best you can do is look at each manufacturer's MDS sheets that list each component by %. We have had good luck using Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 or 10W30 depending on the age/hours on the engine. Do NOT use Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic oils in your Willys as the oil will find every possible place to leak from as the gasket technology in the 30's ( when the original engine design happened) is not what you see today in engines designed for Synthetic lubricants. You do need a Zinc additive for new engines to break-in the camshaft and lifters and it sure can't hurt adding some with each oil change.
On Thu, Jan 23, 2020 at 1:26 PM John Barrett via Groups.Io <tkertoy= [email protected]> wrote:
I've been using Dello in Tinkertoy for about 10 years without any
adverse affects. When we were running the blown alcohol funnycar
the machine shop that prepped our block recommended it for break
in. After break in we switched to Lucas Oil.
John
'56 Pickup TKER TOY
Graham, Wash.
On 1/23/2020 9:58 AM, SF wrote:
He is correct.??? Read this article and make up your own mind.???
My mechanic swears that the reduction of Zinc is a major concern
and will not put an older engine together without it addition or
using an oil that is formulated for the older cars.
SF
On 1/23/2020 10:36 AM, Dan Mulholland
wrote:
I've got a friend, a
retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes
additives to protect the valve train is important with old
engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to
protect catalytic converters.?????? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to
PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Dan,
You’ve been given good advice on the need for higher zinc level oils for your engine, specifically to lubricate the interface between the lifters and the cam lobes.
Since catalytic converter fouling is a design criteria today, zinc levels have been reduced in many oils to reduce the chances of this fouling.
Some excellent suggestions for oil have been listed already, and I’m going to add Shell Rotella T to the list. I think it is called T4 now.
I looked the zinc levels up a few years back, and that’s what I run in all my old vehicle engines now. That includes MG’s, Triumphs, and the Willys.
I’ve lit these rebuilt engines off with brand new camshafts and lifters using Rotella T and the heavy zinc grease on the cam lobes. Have only run Rotella T since.
4+ years later all is well with the MG. Triumph has a year of running with no issues.
Curt
?
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Dan Williams via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2020 12:58 PM
To: WillysTech <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Oil for the old engine
?
?
?
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:37 AM
Subject:
?
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed
from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 23, 2020, at 2:53 PM, Curt Holland < curt@...> wrote:
Dan, You’ve been given good advice on the need for higher zinc level oils for your engine, specifically to lubricate the interface between the lifters and the cam lobes. Since catalytic converter fouling is a design criteria today, zinc levels have been reduced in many oils to reduce the chances of this fouling. Some excellent suggestions for oil have been listed already, and I’m going to add Shell Rotella T to the list. I think it is called T4 now. I looked the zinc levels up a few years back, and that’s what I run in all my old vehicle engines now. That includes MG’s, Triumphs, and the Willys. I’ve lit these rebuilt engines off with brand new camshafts and lifters using Rotella T and the heavy zinc grease on the cam lobes. Have only run Rotella T since. 4+ years later all is well with the MG. Triumph has a year of running with no issues. Curt ? ? ? ? ? From:?
Sent:?Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:37 AM
Subject: ? I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these: "This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep. This might be easier for you to get locally. Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR?
|
It is true that oil for modern engines with roller cams no longer contain the extreme pressure ingredient ?for flat tappet cam and lifters. ?So on rebuilds, it is VERY important to use an oil with that ingredient in it. ?Joe Gibbs racing oil is one of several available.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Right or wrong, I always just used 10w30 in my ‘48 2A. IIRC, the manual recommends straight 30W, but they used to use things to think it in colder?weather. Straight 30 is tough to crank in cold weather, esp with the original 6V electronics.? Be aware though, the talk of oil brands in grades often starts to resemble a debate over religion. People usually have pretty strong feelings about what’s good and bad. I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally. "
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Tinkertoy has a modern engine though
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 23, 2020, at 11:26 AM, John Barrett via Groups.Io < tkertoy@...> wrote:
I've been using Dello in Tinkertoy for about 10 years without any adverse affects. When we were running the blown alcohol funnycar the machine shop that prepped our block recommended it for break in. After break in we switched to Lucas Oil.
John '56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash.
On 1/23/2020 9:58 AM, SF wrote:
He is correct.??? Read this article and make up your own mind.??? My mechanic swears that the reduction of Zinc is a major concern and will not put an older engine together without it addition or using an oil that is formulated for the older cars.
SF On 1/23/2020 10:36 AM, Dan Mulholland wrote:
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?????? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally. "
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
I have been running oil for Diesel engines at least 15 years now in my daily driver with a 134 L head. Diesel oils still have the additives to protect the solid lifter valve train.
I use 15-40 but they make in other weights.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 23, 2020, at 11:36 AM, Dan Mulholland <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
?
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
"
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
i've used rotella with my wagon since i got it and haven't had any problems.
On Thursday, January 23, 2020, 02:53:31 PM EST, Curt Holland <curt@...> wrote:
Dan,
You’ve been given good advice on the need for higher zinc level oils for your engine, specifically to lubricate the interface between the lifters and the cam lobes.
Since catalytic converter fouling is a design criteria today, zinc levels have been reduced in many oils to reduce the chances of this fouling.
Some excellent suggestions for oil have been listed already, and I’m going to add Shell Rotella T to the list. I think it is called T4 now.
I looked the zinc levels up a few years back, and that’s what I run in all my old vehicle engines now. That includes MG’s, Triumphs, and the Willys.
I’ve lit these rebuilt engines off with brand new camshafts and lifters using Rotella T and the heavy zinc grease on the cam lobes. Have only run Rotella T since.
4+ years later all is well with the MG. Triumph has a year of running with no issues.
Curt
?
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Dan Williams via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2020 12:58 PM
To: WillysTech <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] Oil for the old engine
?
?
?
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:37 AM
Subject:
?
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed
from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally.
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Rotella T4 15-40 seems to work well in our '65 Tornado-engined wagon. ?It is supposed to have the additives necessary. ?I buy it in 5 gallon pales at a decent price - $69 Cdn. ?Should be cheaper in the US.
On 2020-01-23, at 11:53 AM, Curt Holland wrote: Dan, You’ve been given good advice on the need for higher zinc level oils for your engine, specifically to lubricate the interface between the lifters and the cam lobes. Since catalytic converter fouling is a design criteria today, zinc levels have been reduced in many oils to reduce the chances of this fouling. Some excellent suggestions for oil have been listed already, and I’m going to add Shell Rotella T to the list. I think it is called T4 now. I looked the zinc levels up a few years back, and that’s what I run in all my old vehicle engines now. That includes MG’s, Triumphs, and the Willys. I’ve lit these rebuilt engines off with brand new camshafts and lifters using Rotella T and the heavy zinc grease on the cam lobes. Have only run Rotella T since. 4+ years later all is well with the MG. Triumph has a year of running with no issues. Curt ? ? ? ? ? From:?
Sent:?Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:37 AM
Subject: ? I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?? He suggested these: "This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep. This might be easier for you to get locally. Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
See 15w-50 at the botom of page 3 on this Mobil 1 chart. ? ? ______________________ ? ?? ????Dennis McGillis ? ? 1953 Jeep Station Wagon
|
Rotella or Delo, ?any high detergent oil made to handle a diesel engine will be fine for a Willys.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 23, 2020, at 1:26 PM, John Barrett via Groups.Io < tkertoy@...> wrote:
I've been using Dello in Tinkertoy for about 10 years without any adverse affects. When we were running the blown alcohol funnycar the machine shop that prepped our block recommended it for break in. After break in we switched to Lucas Oil.
John '56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash.
On 1/23/2020 9:58 AM, SF wrote:
He is correct.??? Read this article and make up your own mind.??? My mechanic swears that the reduction of Zinc is a major concern and will not put an older engine together without it addition or using an oil that is formulated for the older cars.
SF On 1/23/2020 10:36 AM, Dan Mulholland wrote:
I've got a friend, a retired mechanic, advising me that an oil that includes additives to protect the valve train is important with old engines; that these additives were removed from modern oils to protect catalytic converters.?????? He suggested these:
"This is the oil. They have rebranded to PennGrade. I recommend straight 30w for the Jeep.
This might be easier for you to get locally. "
Since I'm cheap, wondering what others think about this.
Dan
--?
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
It is NOT detergent, it IS ZDDP on NEW cam and lifters you need to protect.?
|
Sean Kerns