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I used 8 postition barrier strips centrally located
near groups of feeder wires. bus wire comes to one
side of strip which has 14 gauge wire wrapped from one
post to the other all the way down on that side and
next bus wire leading off either side which allows be
to put up to 14 feeders of each one using lugs. I use
one strip for each polairity and NO soldering at bus
wires involved. Hasn't seemed to detract from the
performance at all. But don't go beyond the 30' limit
for main bus lines. Biggest hassle here is making
sure you have the right feeder wire for the particular
side of the bus. I color coded one feeder wire with
red nail polish and hooked it up to red bus line. My
bus lines are all 14 gauge wire...red and green. It's
a tad more expensive but it's a lot easier to undo a
screw if you make a mistake than trying to unsolder a
bunch of wires looking for the right one. You can
also buy terminal joiners for the barrier strips that
do the same thing as wrapping all the screws on one
side with wire but they cost almost as much as the
barrier strip..safety wise i would think barrier
strips would be the safest way to do it as you don't
have bare hot wires where you can get zapped....just
an idea...hope it helps....if you need more detail
email me at zekda99@...

mt
--- Ken <kenkal@...> wrote:


---------------------------------
Forgot to answer this part:
The trick is to NOT put your face under the solder
connection. Or
legs. or arms. or fingers. or whatever. Just keep
your self off to
the side a little bit and your arms near parallel with
the connection
to be soldered so that if solder does drop, it falls
to the floor.
Ken

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jerry Goodwin"
<jerrygoodwin@y...> wrote:

.> And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your

face?

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Forgot to answer this part:
The trick is to NOT put your face under the solder connection. Or
legs. or arms. or fingers. or whatever. Just keep your self off to
the side a little bit and your arms near parallel with the connection
to be soldered so that if solder does drop, it falls to the floor.
Ken

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jerry Goodwin"
<jerrygoodwin@y...> wrote:

.> And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your face?

I would like to stop getting email messages that there is a message on
the message board. I would like to unjoin. The link that is available
is not an active link. Please advise me how I can do it.
Thanks,
Gene

1. I use wire strippers to pull the bus wire insulation apart,wrap the
feeder wire tightly around the bus wire, and solder.
2. Don't us the old type wire strippers that require you to hold one
wire with one hand and pull the insulation away with the wire
strippers. Newer strippers that are really not costly at all -- $5 to
15 or so -- do a perfect job. Look for the wire strippers that allow
basically one handed operation. You just put the stripper over the
wire and squeeze. One side grips the insulation and hold, the other
side cuts automatically to the size of the wire (doesn't even nick the
wire) and pulls the insulation back about 1/2" to 1" or so. If you
need more than that space just reposition and squeeze again. It's
soooo simple to do this way. They work perfectly on twisted wires as
well. These strippers are available at most hardware and supply stores
like Menard's, Lowe's, etc. If you need more info let me know.
Ken
--- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jerry Goodwin"
<jerrygoodwin@y...> wrote:

How do you connect the feeder wire to the bus?

If you solder it, how do you strip the insulation from the bus in the
middle of a stretch of wire without cutting the wire?

And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your face?

Hi
I have used scotchlok blocks a form of insulation displcement connector.
No soldering,no stripping just a pair of pliers. You can also get them with
a spade receptical such that you can break the connection if you wish. These
are available from express models. Have a look on their
website.......
t.html

Regards.....john

How do you connect the feeder wire to the bus?

If you solder it, how do you strip the insulation from the bus in the
middle of a stretch of wire without cutting the wire?

And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your face?

You may be thinking of the MiniBooster(c) by MiniDCC(c). Yes, you got
to it from my site through my Do-It-Yourself page. The URL for
MiniDCC is: Scroll to the bottom of their
page and click on MiniBooster(c) circuit.

CVP Products is still selling a simple booster kit. It can be found
at:

There was a schematic for a real simple booster. It may not have had missing DCC detection, over voltage os some other features, but it was real simple. I may have seen it while browsing this site a month or so ago.

Now I can't find it.

I think there might have been a parts list with it too, but not sure.

The thread had someones remark to the efect " That's it? Thats all there is?"



I've search and searched. I guess I should have bookmarked it, but nope!



Now I need to build one. Anyone remember seeing it, or perhaps another real simple booster?

B0B

I'm not sure you can set the trip time on a Lenz system, but lightbulbs
work just fine with the Lenz system we have at our club. (Set 90)

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
wrote:

Peter,

Check the manual. I am pretty sure that you have to hold the
emergency stop key for about 6 seconds. I never considered this very
useful as my train has surely collided with another train or wrecked
by then! If I need to do an emergency stop on my Digitrax system I

do

a power off instead.

Allan

thanks allan i will try it

peter

Peter,

Check the manual. I am pretty sure that you have to hold the
emergency stop key for about 6 seconds. I never considered this very
useful as my train has surely collided with another train or wrecked
by then! If I need to do an emergency stop on my Digitrax system I do
a power off instead.

Allan

Dear Allan
Thanks for the info I will check and see....john

I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the
manual states it somewhere. Or you could contact them and ask.

The trip time needs to be about 1/2 second. My Digitrax Chief gives
me a choice of 1/8 or 1/2 second. On 1/8 second, the Chief trips
before the light bulb has a chance to light up. At a 1/2 second, the
light lights up about 95% of the time before the Chief trips.

If your Lenz manual doesn't state the trip time, all you need to do is
buy a bulb and try. In the United States, an 1156 tail light bulb
sells for about $1.59 for two of them.

If your Lenz trips too fast, check your manual and see if the trip
time is adjustable. I know the Digitrax Chief isn't the only one that
is adjustable.

Allan

i have just installed a mrc sound decoder in one of my locomotives all
cv's run fine, sound is good however when i try to stop the locomotive
using the emergancy stop key it does not respond.using the throttle to
reduce the speed to zero works fine . any suggesstion in correcting
this problem would be helpful. my system is digitrax super empire
builder with a dp150 command station and dt400 throttle. other decoders
whether digitrax or mrc installed in other engines work just fine.

thank

peter

I've seen electrical switches recessed into the facia of layouts. They
are recessed by the installation of a PVC fitting. I'm having trouble
locating the fitting (i.e. the local plumbing supply doesn't have them
and hasn't seem them). It's shaped like a "U" with a lip around the
outside edge of the "U." It's a 1-1/2" or 2" fitting. The closed end of
the fitting is flat (i.e. it's not a cap that you'd use to close the
end of a PVC pipe - these are rounded). The switch is mounted on the
closed end of the U. The lip gives an easy means of mounting the
fitting to the facia. Anybody out there seen this & can identify the
name of the part? Thanks.

You can get various 'dishes' from people who cater for speaker constructors
and the like.

I don't know about the U.S. but a browse at _www.maplin.co.uk_
() might turn up something to illustrate what I am talking about.

Pat
Wye Valley

Worst case - You want to run more than one train at a time and they may overlap at the main tracks of the double crossover.
Need 2 A-R units. Wire the whole crossover section to be fixed track polarity right from the booster. Use insulated rail joiners at all 8 rails. Wire the left and right halves of the rest of the layout as two separate reversing sections, each with its own Auto-Reverser. If you throw all 4 throwbars of the Walthers double crossover to be the same position at the same time there will be no short circuits caused by steel wheels. Fairly easy to do w/ 4 Tortoise machines all wired to the same control switch.

Can also be done by moving the insulating rail gaps and A-R track sections away from the double crossover, out toward the actual end loops. Still requires 2 A-R track sections, but you COULD get by with using only 1 A-R unit if you can guarantee that only 1 train at a time will be rolling through the reversing tracks at any given moment. The advantage is that much of the double or single mainline track can be constant polarity, and you may get by with purchasing only 1 A-R unit. For trouble free operation make sure the reversing track sections you do end up with are always longer than the train.
DonV

Stumped:

I have built a DCCsystem and I cannot figure out how to wire a
complicated dogbone.

My two track mainline enters a double crossover that becomes a loop
coming back into the double crossover. I am using Lenz equipment
throughout.

My crossover and track in the loop is Shinohara purchased through
Walthers.

Help on this would be greatly appreciated

Doug Edwards

Don, Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I will definately check out the NCE Powercab.
Gene

Gene,
You got it.
Just remove the wires from the DC power pack and connect them to the DCC system of your choice.
Take a good look at the NCE PowerCab. It is much easier to operate than Digitrax. Perfect for a layout such as yours, with few limits on future expansion.
DonV