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Nobby,

The easiest thing to do is outlined in the Wiring For DCC website at:



This section of the website is for power routing frogs when you don't
have any kind of switch machine under the layout.

It actually operates off the throwbar. So if you are using Peco
turnouts and are flipping them with your fingertip, this approach
should still work. The only problem you might run into is if the
spring in the micro switch is stronger than the Peco spring. If using
ground throws, this approach works fine.

Allan

Hi

new to the group and DCC I am in the middle of building a new layout
with Peco code 75 my problem is I am not using any point motors on any
of my switiches I can not work out how to power route the frog as
everything I read is all about motors which I am not using! how do I
power route under the layout.

Nobby

I've found the easiest way to insulate track is to use
those white plastic insulators you can buy from local
hobby stores. I use 3 pieces of store bought straight
track for each block minimum. 1st hooks up to flex
track on one end then the insulators (x2 required for
dcc) then on the end of the next i use store bought
terminal wires on both then the last one can easily
hook back up to flex track. the reason this is the
simplist is that there are no gaps left from cutting
track pieces. The worst place you can put insulators
is on curves if you are cutting track.

For DCC both rails have to be insulated and both have
to have their own power..just make sure you don't
cross the wires anywhere.. easiest way is to start
from one side of the rail and follow that rail all
around the layout and marking it by either putting a
pin on that side or even a bright colored mark....then
do the same with the other and you shouldn't have any
problems.

mt
--- "Louis A. Angelucci" <loua2000_99@...>
wrote:


---------------------------------
I have read teh big red book on dcc and I am confused
about how to
actually wire a block on my N scael layout. I intend
to install a
dgitrax DCC system. How long is a block in terms of
track length? What
is typical?

Do you actually cut the track and install insulators?
do you cut both
tracks? In an existent layout how is a block
installed? How do you
intall the insulators? How do you prevent damage to
the track where
the installation is made?

I know this is probably basic information but it is
causing me anxiety
with my layout. Whenever I cut track that track
section is the cause
of derailment. This is my concern.

please let me know

thank you








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I have read teh big red book on dcc and I am confused about how to
actually wire a block on my N scael layout. I intend to install a
dgitrax DCC system. How long is a block in terms of track length? What
is typical?

Do you actually cut the track and install insulators? do you cut both
tracks? In an existent layout how is a block installed? How do you
intall the insulators? How do you prevent damage to the track where
the installation is made?

I know this is probably basic information but it is causing me anxiety
with my layout. Whenever I cut track that track section is the cause
of derailment. This is my concern.

please let me know

thank you

I have numerous Proto Power West Chassis and motors for Athern
shells.
I want to wire these for DCC. I do not know how to do this because
the wiring of these is different than most other engines. Can you
help me?

Stephen,

Capacitors will never be responsible "directional differences." So
you can forget about removing them. Also, I suspect that if
Rivarossi provided a plug for a decoder they didn't intend for you
to need to remove any components from their circuit board.

Your problems sound mechanical. If you want to prove it to
yourself, remove the decoder and reinstall the dummy plug that came
with the locomotive. Put the locomotive on a track running from a
regular, DC power pack. It will probably perform just as poorly.

Maybe your locomotive just needs to be broken in. Perhaps it has
something else wrong with it. In any event, it isn't a DCC problem
and is beyond the scope of this DCC forum.

Allan


Murphy's Law: A locomotive will always run better in reverse.

I agree with Allan. Try breaking in your locomotive first, under DC if
you must, will remove that as being a factor. Make sure the wheels are
clean again when you get done before you install the decoder..

Allan is also right in that a capacitors do not effect decoder operation
in terms of direction. It can, however, effect decoder operation
overall and independent of direction.

Many locomotives seem to come with some filtering electronics for the
motor. This filter circuit often consist of a ceramic capacitor and one
or two stick inductors. It exist because some locomotive manufacture
are attempting to reduce the "Radio Wave" interference the motors can
create when they run. Think motor noise & static noise you get on the
TV or Radio type of thing. They add this filter to reduce the
interference to comply with some regulation agency that regulates such
things. To be clear, most locomotive manufactures have NO filter
circuit at all.

The filter circuit was intended to be used with the engine while
operating in DC mode as opposed to DCC. As people have found, DCC
decoders were not designed to work with these filters. In many cases it
has lead to erratic operation. The recommendation is that for DCC, at a
minimum the capacitor should be removed completely (clipped out).
Removing the whole filter is required if you use a decoder with BEMF.


Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:

--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)

----------------------------------------------------------

Our large club layout has two Wangrow dual 5 amp boosters (for a toal
of 20 amps divided around the layout). These have worked flawlessly
for about 4 years. They have responded to occasional shorts properly,
shutting down power until the offending equipment is located and
removed. Last Friday in the middle of routine operations, the red
short indicators came on on one booster box. After a search, no shorts
could be discovered. Then all lights on the booster box went off.
Despite turning off all power and re-booting, the booster did not come
back on. A meter shows power to the input terminals.

Does anyone know what, if anything, blows out internally on these
boosters. Can they be fixed? Or am I, not for the first time,
overlooking something obvious.

If you get no lights and you can measure power at the input terminals,
then something has gone wrong.

Although System One (Wangrow) is out of business, service can be
obtained. Karl Kobel of System One stated that Ron Sebastian of
DesPlains Hobbies has agreed to be the repair depot of existing System
One equipment.

Suggest people give him a call to check out the service.

Des Plaines Hobbies
(847) 297-2118
1468 Lee St., Des Plaines, IL 60018



Do not contact NCE (North Coast Engineering) for repair. They have NO
obligation. legal or otherwise, to support System One. The two
companies are seperate entities.

If you wish to purchase replacement equipment, NCE would be your only
choice. However the replacment product will not be the exact same
product.



You can get more information about System One from the



group.

Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:

--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)

----------------------------------------------------------

snorring@... wrote:

dcc doesn't have to be controlled by a computer.

True. No computer "PC" is needed.

What is called the command station is actually a computer design
specifically to run DCC and nothing else. You simply do need to know it
is a computer and simply call it by it purposeful name. Command
Station.

What is possible on some brands of DCC systems is a connection to a
common PC computer to enhance your DCC experience. Applications such as
signalling or programming complex decoders can be used. But again to
run and program your engines "decoders", you do NOT need it.

DCC does require a power supply that is DCC not DC.

I think there is some terminology confusion here.

DCC is a control system. It has nothing to do with power.

DC is a power source/supply who's voltage has a constant polarity

AC is a power source/supply who's voltage has a constantly changing
polarity.

All DCC systems require some form of power supply to power them.

Some DCC systems do not come with a power supply and allow you to use
your old DC power pack to act as a TEMPORARY power supply. It is
expected that you would purchase a power supply the meets the
specification as shown in your DCC manual. Doing so otherwise will
restrict your ability to get the most out of your DCC system.

Some DCC systems do come with a power supply in the package which
simplifies your life in terms of getting up and running. Typically
these are entry level system.

The type of power supply that can be used with DCC systems can
potentially vary. Consult with your manual. However, to the best of my
knowledged, all DCC system can take advantage of both DC or a AC power
source voltages on its input. Circuits inside these system (rectifiers)
make it possible. The idea is based in the interest of giving you
maximum flexibility and cost saving in finding a suitable power supply.
It also makes the input power connection to the DCC system simple and
accident proof in terms of wire connection polarity.

By all means check out the Wiring for DCC section on beginners for more
information.

Best Regards,

Mark Gurries
Linear Technology
Power Supply & Battery Charger Applications Engineer/Manager
---------------------------------------------------------
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:

--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)

----------------------------------------------------------

You mean other than doing like they do on the prototype - increase the
throttle.

SOME decoders have "back EMF compensation." This is also known
as "speed compensation" and a few other similar sounding names. Most
decoders do not have this feature. You will have to examine the
features for your decoder to determine if it has this feature.

Back EMF compensation senses the load put on a locomotive when it goes
up a grade and increases the power to the motor to compensation.
Likewise, when going down a grade, it senses this, too, and decreases
the power to the motor.

If your decoder has back EMF compensation, it usually comes from the
factory deactivated. You will need to activate it. How you activate
it varies with the manufacturer and the decoder. Usually it is as
simple as setting a CV.

Many decoders have variable back EMF compensation. You can set these
decoders anywhere from no compensation to maximum compensation. At
maximum compensation, you will see very little, if any, speed change
when the train is on a grade. How much compensation is up to you.
Try a value and see how the train reacts.

hi all,
how do i fix speed drop at grades

Our large club layout has two Wangrow dual 5 amp boosters (for a toal
of 20 amps divided around the layout). These have worked flawlessly
for about 4 years. They have responded to occasional shorts properly,
shutting down power until the offending equipment is located and
removed. Last Friday in the middle of routine operations, the red
short indicators came on on one booster box. After a search, no shorts
could be discovered. Then all lights on the booster box went off.
Despite turning off all power and re-booting, the booster did not come
back on. A meter shows power to the input terminals.

Does anyone know what, if anything, blows out internally on these
boosters. Can they be fixed? Or am I, not for the first time,
overlooking something obvious.

Stephen,

Capacitors will never be responsible "directional differences." So
you can forget about removing them. Also, I suspect that if
Rivarossi provided a plug for a decoder they didn't intend for you
to need to remove any components from their circuit board.

Your problems sound mechanical. If you want to prove it to
yourself, remove the decoder and reinstall the dummy plug that came
with the locomotive. Put the locomotive on a track running from a
regular, DC power pack. It will probably perform just as poorly.

Maybe your locomotive just needs to be broken in. Perhaps it has
something else wrong with it. In any event, it isn't a DCC problem
and is beyond the scope of this DCC forum.

Allan


Murphy's Law: A locomotive will always run better in reverse.

Hello I am New to to this group
I have a new Rivarossi Heisler locomotive,into which I plugged
a Digitrax dz143pn decoder. In reverse it runs great,however in
forward it runs poorly,it jerks along and takes more voltage to get it
to start.
I have asked in other forums and got some feedback about the circuit
board ie cutting out some caps,but have upon examination that it has
alot of surface mount componates. Any ideas?
Thanks Stephen

You might find this webpage on DCC for Beginners interesting:



Allan


--- In WiringForDCC@..., "oreboats" <adam@r...> wrote:

Does DCC have to be controlled by a computer? Can you use a normal

DC

power supply and the have an encoder send the signals? How hard is

it

to program DCC?

Greg, have you seen Tillig products? They seem close to what you want. (H0e
= H0n30).
/Jan

Does DCC have to be controlled by a computer? Can you use a normal DC
power supply and the have an encoder send the signals? How hard is it
to program DCC?

dcc doesn't have to be controlled by a computer. DCC does require a pwer
supply that is DCC not DC.

Greg,

Regarding your idea for your trackwork, try asking your question on a
Yahoo group on narrow gauge. I think I've seen a way for a narrow
gauge track to diverge from a standard gauge track without using a
turnout. I'm sure you can get good advice about your dual gauge needs
and how you should approach it on a narrow gauge chat group. I don't
want to try to give advice on a topic I know little about.

I'm going to visit my friends dual gauge layout and study it. Look
for dual gauge information on my website later this summer. Go to
and sign up for update
announcements. When I update the Wiring For DCC website, you will
receive an announcement.

Allan

--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
wrote:

Greg,

I'm pretty well caught up with things, so I'll try to add material on
dual gauge wiring this summer.

I will go visit a layout with dual gauge track and see what was done
or should have been done. Then I will make some drawings as needed.

What brand of turnouts are you using?

Allan

I haven't decided what brand to use, but most likely will either hand
lay or use a peco switch (n scale) and build a HO/HOn30 switch out of
it. My intention was to have the standard gauge continue straight and
have the HOn30 deviate off to the left. I thought an easy solution was
to use a left hand switch (n scale) and add the standard gauge track to
it.

Does that make much sense?

Greg

Greg,

I'm pretty well caught up with things, so I'll try to add material on
dual gauge wiring this summer.

I will go visit a layout with dual gauge track and see what was done
or should have been done. Then I will make some drawings as needed.

What brand of turnouts are you using?

Allan